Elite Traveler Spring 2020

elite traveler SPRING 2020 137

Culinary cravings

Thai food buffs may notice their favorite ingredients in Cambodian cuisine — ginger, coconut, garlic, lemongrass and vinegar, to name a few. But Khmer flavors are sweeter, without the burning spices, as their curries rely more on herbs than peppers. (However, do expect a potent dose of Kampot’s potent, prickly tasting peppercorns.) Sample amok , considered the national dish, a curry mélange with fish, turmeric and lime. French influence ensures perfect baguettes and croissants aplenty, but breakfast at least once on bai sach chrouk , a popular local dish with pickled cucumbers and sliced pork over rice. Nom banh chok (often sold by women balancing a pole on their shoulders) blends thin rice noodles with green fish curry and vegetables. Beef lovers shouldn’t miss beef loc lac , which layers fried bits of beef atop lettuce, raw onions and other vegetables; a fried egg and peppery sauce completes the tasty treat. Fearless eaters can munch outside the Western epicurean’s box on local delicacies such as deep-fried tarantulas, grilled frogs (marinated in chili and garlic, and served on a stick) and crunchy scorpions. Those who prefer fine dining should make reservations at French restaurant, Topaz; contemporary Cambodian restaurant, Malis, in Phnom Penh; and Cuisine Wat Damnak (considered one of Asia’s best restaurants) in Siem Reap. Also in Siem Reap, Marum, which is a socially conscious restaurant run by Tree All iance, markets fair-trade products and cookery, while training and employing underprivileged youth as its workforce. topaz-restaurant.com, malis-restaurant.com, cuisinewatdamnak.com, tree-alliance.org

BEYOND ANGKOR WAT

TONLÉ SAP LAKE Hotel concierges or upscale on-site outfitters, such as Trails of Indochina, can arrange excursions to see the renowned floating villages that hover atop Southeast Asia’s largest freshwater lake. Village visits and tours of a silk farm complete this daylong excursion from Siem Reap. trailsofindochina.com

PEDAL PUSHING Companies such as Grasshopper Adventures offer customized daily and scheduled cycling itineraries around Cambodia. Observing the countryside from the seat of a bicycle provides a slow-travel opportunity to view details that might go unnoticed, as well as chances to stop at your leisure and meet locals along the way. Consider the three-day, two-night ride from Angkor to Phnom Penh. grasshopperadventures.com FURTHER FLUNG Intrepid travelers will enjoy exploring less-touristed northern Cambodia. In the northeast, Ratanakiri’s thick jungles have become the realm of ecotourism (expect rustic, camp-style hotels), while charming Battambang, in the far northwest, enchants with an artsy colonial vibe. Home to Cambodia’s most admired circus, Phare Ponleu Selpak, the fanciful riverside town can be reached from Siem Reap by boat. Photos Kiattipong Panchee, Mick2770/Shutterstock.com

Right and below Cuisine Wat Damnak’s prawn and pomelo salad with candied rind and ginger leaves; Cambodian street food

VILLA CHANDARA Cruise by private boat to the small village of Baray, located within a man-made reservoir, historically significant to the Angkorian rice irrigation systems. Enjoy an afternoon with villagers who share their traditional skills before touring the villa’s garden. Finally, sit down to a gourmet, candlelit, five-course, Khmer-style meal in sight of the rice paddies. villachandara.com

From top Tonlé Sap lake; biking through local towns in Cambodia; Kachanh waterfall in Ratankiri