Elite Traveler Spring 2019

EXPLORE ST BARTHS

GUIDE TO ST BARTHS

View over Gustavia, the main town on the island

St Barths has long been touted as the ultimate winter escape, an exclusive playground to which the rich and famous flock year after year. It’s a see-and-be- seen kind of place that attracts fashionable crowds from all over the world. From the moment you step foot on the island, you’ll feel like you’ve joined one of the world’s most exclusive clubs. Yet behind the superyachts that dominate the marina and nightly soirées that don’t stop until the sun rises, lies an island with a classic, laissez-faire Caribbean attitude and feet-in-the-sand luxury. It’s a place where designer- clad glitterati and French-speaking locals sit side-by- side in shoes-optional, beachside restaurants, and where renting a car or Mini Moke is a requirement for exploring every coast, beach and cliff on the eight- square-mile island. Hurricane Irma devastated the island in 2017— the island's crown jewel hotel, Eden Rock, will reopen at the end of this year —but it has bounced back with beautifully reimagined hotels, restaurants and villas. There’s no better time than now to visit St Barths and marvel at its glamorous party scene and natural beauty, from the Jurassic Park -esque mountainscapes and pristine beaches to St Jean’s splashy clubs and out-of-this-world, French- Caribbean cuisine.

Unlike most resort-bound Caribbean vacations, the culture of St Barths is best discovered through its endless epicurean delights. One of the swankiest dinner spots is Bonito St Barth , perched just above Gustavia with white- washed, Hamptons-meets-St- Tropez decor. It’s best known for inventive cocktails and delectable truffle ceviche, with an upscale ambience and upbeat music. On the other side of Gustavia, French- Caribbean Maya’s attracts the who’s who of the island, though you’d never expect it due to its tucked-away location. If you can’t make it here for dinner, stop by Maya’s To Go across from the airport for sandwiches and frîtes to take to the beach. Locals consider Sante Fe their best-kept secret — come for BEACH BITES

the dover sole, clams and grilled langouste (spiny lobster) caught daily. Set along the road to Gouverneur Beach, its quaint Caribbean vibe and sublimely understated colonial decor transport you to the island’s early days. A can’t-miss, Italian haunt, L’Isola , wouldn’t be out of place in Rome, where the chef is from. But if you’re looking for something more casual, try sister restaurant L’Isoletta , a quick-fix for alfresco pizza (some say the best on the island) and people-watching in Gustavia. To enjoy the true island spirit, the half-outdoor L’Esprit , an island mainstay for more than 20 years, is both romantic and tasty — you can’t go wrong with the veal, pigeon or mahi-mahi. Just down the street, tiki-torch-lit Tamarin

Zesty truffle ceviche at Bonito St Barth

transports you to a rain forest. Teak walkways guide you to your private table as you stargaze between bites. If it’s sushi you’re after, it has to be Baz Bar . Overlooking Gustavia harbor, the restaurant has live music every night — it’s not uncommon to see Jimmy Buffett or Jon Bon Jovi take the stage to perform in this intimate venue after dinner. While there, order Baz’s Roy’s Special roll. A night of rock 'n' roll indeed. ilovebonito.com, bazbar.com

mayas-stbarth.com, tamarinstbarth.com

by Emma Reynolds

Photos Wimco Villas, Guirec Pouliquen, Romeo Balancourt