Elite Traveler September-October 2018

Ultra-thin mechanical watches are easily one of the most exciting realms in watchmaking today, as only the finest brands are able to produce a super-thin wristwatch. In this rarefied race to set new world records for the thinnest watch of its type —whose height is the equivalent of a few stacked US dimes — marques are pulling out all of the stops. This year, Bulgari set a new world record with its ultra-thin tourbillon, while Audemars Piguet and Piaget unveiled concept watches that — if and when produced —will be as thin as a few sheets of paper. What makes ultra-thin timepieces so difficult to build is that in order to pare down the movement to its slimmest profile, much of the metal has to be shaved away, while still maintaining its rigidity and durability. Creating and assembling hundreds of tiny parts for an ultra-thin caliber placed inside an ultra-slim case is no easy feat. Thankfully, master watchmakers continue to take on the challenge of creating ever-slimmer works of art. ULTRA-THINS

BREGUET CLASSIQUE TOURBILLON EXTRA-PLAT AUTOMATIQUE 5367 This new addition to the much-coveted Breguet Classique Grande Complications collection houses the extra-thin self-winding caliber 581, which measures 3mm in thickness. The complex movement features a one-minute tourbillon, whose bar is hand-beveled for added allure, and a silicon balance spring. Thanks to a high-energy barrel with patented construction, the watch is endowed with 80 hours of power reserve. As beautiful on the outside as it is on the inside, its bright white Grand Feu enamel dial has a large tourbillon aperture at 5 o'clock. With Breguet Arabic numerals and Breguet blue-steel hands, it is the epitome of elegance and classic high horology. The 18K rose gold case measures 42mm in diameter and 7.45mm in thickness. Water resistant to 30meters, it sports a sapphire crystal caseback for viewing of the beautifully decorated movement, with hand-engraved and hand-polished bridges, barrel and an unusual peripheral platinum rotor. $147,500, available at Breguet in NewYork, +1 646 692 6469, breguet.com

AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK RD#2 This year, Audemars Piguet once again went above and beyond and unveiled its second significant concept watch: the Royal Oak RD#2 perpetual calendar ultra-thin concept watch. Aptly named, the new self-winding caliber 5133 took five years to develop and combines two important complications. In addition to measuring just 2.89mm in thickness, the 256-part caliber boasts a perpetual calendar with day, date, astronomical moon phase, month, leap year and day/ night indications, as well as hours and minutes. The challenging part of its design was re-engineering the three-level movement into a single level to achieve thinness, while at the same time rearranging the functions to ensure efficiency and beauty. The patented caliber has a 2.89mm central rotor and 40 hours of power reserve. At 41mm in diameter, the watch, when cased, measures only 6.30mm in thickness. Although not in production and unavailable for purchase, it is the thinnest self-winding perpetual calendar created. For more information, visit audemarspiguet.com