Elite Traveler September-October 2018

REPEATERS AND SONNERIES

The chiming watch, typically a minute repeater or a sonnerie, has roots dating back several centuries. Its original use was to indicate the time without having to light a candle or a lantern. That concept has become obsolete, but the chiming watch is still one of the most coveted— and rarest — timepieces on the market today. Incredibl l to build, often holding several hundred or more mechanical moving parts, watches have come a long way in their design, sound and beauty. As watch explore newways to enhance the chimes, including differently shaped ham gongs and newmaterials, we are witnessing a quiet evolution in this field. minute repeaters that chime the hours, quarter hours and minutes after th sonneries that useWestminster chimes, and even watches that play portio entire song, these acoustical wonders range from the superb to the sublim y comp ex chiming brands mers, longer Indeed, from e quarters, to ns of an e.

REPEATERTOURBILLON Individually built upon order, the newest Swiss Alp Minute Repeater Tourbillon showcases the independent Swiss watch brand’s technical and aesthetic prowess; H Moser & Cie is particularly known for its breathtaking dials. This model is crafted in 18K white gold and features an intriguing laser-machined dial. Its differently shaded blue mosaic motif recalls the brand’s beloved "funky blue" dial color. To create this technologically advanced square movement (square movements can be more difficult than a traditional round movement), it turned toMHCManufactures Hautes Complications SA. The C 901 hand-wound caliber, with 90 hours of power reserve, offers a one-minute flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock, as well as a minute repeater with two gongs. To accommodate the complicated movement, the case was widened to provide enough space for the sound to amplify. As it is made to order, you can customize the dial and know that each watch is unique. $292,000, available at Cellini Jewelers in NewYork, contact Leon Adams, owner, info@cellinijewelers.com, +1 800 235 5464, h-moser.com HMOSER&CIE SWISSALPMINUTE

PATEKPHILIPPE REF 5531R Housing a patented chiming movement first unveiled last year in a USA-exclusive watch, the new Patek Philippe Ref 5531R is both a minute repeater and a world-time watch. The timepiece deftly combines art, technology and function in a masterful manner. The brand’s 462-part caliber R 27 HU is an ultra-thin self-winding mechanical movement featuring a minute repeater with local-time strike and 24-hour world-time indication. The city disc is in black and white for day/night indication. The dial of this newest version depicts an incredible cloisonné enamel painting of a Lavaux vineyard terrace on Switzerland's Lake Geneva, a Unesco World Heritage Site. To create this masterpiece, a single artist lays thin strips of gold onto the dial, then paints within the strips, working in layer after layer of color to achieve the stunning sailboat, vineyards and sunset hues. Crafted in 18K 5N rose gold, the case has a hand- guilloché hobnail pattern on the flanks and repeater slide. $500,000, by application only, contact Patek Philippe in New York, +1 212 218 1240, patek.com