Elite Traveler September-October 2018

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D’ÉGALITÉ Following years of research and development, Greubel Forsey unveils its fifth Fundamental Invention: the Différentiel d’Égalité. The hand-wound watch features regulated driving force — steady distribution of power from the mainspring barrel — for enhanced precision throughout the 60 hours of power reserve. The spherical timepiece has an inclined fixed escapement (at a 30-degree angle) made of 71 parts that minimizes the effects of gravity. The brand’s first dead-beat seconds makes it easier to set the time more precisely. The movement includes a balance wheel stop and a seconds reset feature that is activated when the crown is pulled out. The 359-part movement sits inside a 44mm 18K white gold case with a domed sapphire crystal and sapphire caseback. The multilevel dial sports a sapphire hour ring, lacquered indexes, gold-engraved and lacquered small seconds, and power-reserve indication. Greubel Forsey continues its high horology design codes, with all pieces hand finished and polished. Each of the 33 pieces is hand-engraved with its individual number. $295,000, available at Cellini Jewelers in NewYork, contact Leon Adams, owner, info@cellinijewelers.com, +1 212 888 0505, greubelforsey.com

ENTROPY Fiona Krüger’s eponymous brand is known for incredible skull-shaped watches and colorful designs. Now, she unveils the oval-shaped Chaos collection and her own movement made by Agenhor. The first pieces are two dial-free skeletonized Entropy watches that embrace the notion that as time passes, a systemwill go from a state of order toward a state of disorder, or chaos. The watch combines the precision of timekeeping with a chaotic display. Krüger worked with Agenhor to integrate her aesthetic design with the mechanical reinventions necessary to create the movement, which had to be elongated so the gear train would stretch the length of the mechanism. It features off-center "shattered" hour and minute wheels, and the winding barrel is animated when the watch is wound, designed to emulate an eruption. Agenhor utilized different technologies and invented a new production process for the arrangement of the movement. The two-hand skeleton movement is fitted with an innovative, patented AgenPit regulator. $29,900, available at Provident Jewelry in Jupiter, Florida, contact Nick Linca, managing partner, nick@providentjewelry.com, +1 561 747 4449, fionakrugertimepieces.com

The ultra-modern Zenith Defy Zero G (G for gravity) has a new skeletonized high-frequency movement coupled with the brand’s patented gyroscopic Gravity Control module. The 44mm 18K rose gold watch houses a manual-winding 324-part movement, the El Primero 8812S caliber, which measures tenths of a second, beats at the high rate of 5Hz and offers 50 hours of power reserve. The newly reconfigured Gravity Control module (first unveiled at the Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb in 2011 in its original format) combines the regulating organ and balance wheel, and holds them in a horizontal position. Visible at 6 o’clock, the system acts similarly to a tourbillon escapement and cancels the effects negative of gravity on timekeeping. For the Defy Zero G, this 139-part module has been slimmed down and optimized for peak balance amplitude and precision. It is held in place by a gimbal suspension system inspired by ships’ gimbals that were designed to correct variations in time resulting from the pitch and toss of a ship at sea. Time is indicated on the blued ring at 12 o’clock. $115,900, available at Cellini Jewelers in New York, contact Leon Adams, owner, info@cellinijewelers.com, +1 212 888 0505, zenith-watches.com