Elite Traveler September-October 2017

INSPIRE TOP 50 WATCHES

Complicated Horology When things get complicated in a timepiece, it is a good thing. In fact, complicated watches are the benchmark of high horology, and top watch brands continually set new standards of excellence in this field. A complication is defined as a function other than time-telling that is added to a watch. Sometimes the added function is regarded as a small complication, such as GMT and world timers. Other times, the complication is more complex, such as a minute repeater or chiming watch, or an automaton. Additionally, there are grand complications, whereinmultiple functions come together in a single watch. Long considered a complication because it aids in precision, the tourbillon (an escapement that compensates for errors in timekeeping due to the effects of gravity on the wrist) has come under scrutiny by some watch pundits today, who argue that the tourbillon does not bring an added “function” to the watch and so should not be in the complicated category. However, the constantly moving, mesmerizing escapement helps to improve precision and has been honed to such degrees that many brands offer multiple escapements in one watch, and multiple axes within a single escapement. For this reason, we include the tourbillon in our complicated picks.

JAEGER-LECOULTRE GEOPHYSIC TOURBILLON UNIVERSAL TIME

GIRARD-PERREGAUX PLANETARIUM TRI-AXIAL

The platinum Geophysic Tourbillon Universal Time underscores Jaeger-LeCoultre's sophisticated watchmaking expertise. The watch is equipped with an orbital flying tourbillon, as well as a world time indication. The world time is displayed in 24 time zones, which are represented by a city from each time zone. The flying tourbillon, which indicates the seconds, completes one turn of the dial every 24 hours, moving the world map with it. The continents are brushed silver and the oceans are guillochéd blue lacquer. $145,000 Where to buy Jaeger-LeCoultre, in New York, contact Sheila Stover, boutique manager, sheila.stover@ jaeger-lecoultre.com, +1 646 828 4328, jaeger-lecoultre.com

The Planetarium Tri-Axial is one of the very few triple-axis tourbillons in the watch industry. It defies gravity with the high-speed rotation of its tourbillon. The watch also features a three-dimensional terrestrial globe that rotates once every 24 hours. In addition to the triple axis tourbillon and the rotating globe, the watch offers off-centered hours and minutes, day and night indicator, and moonphase indication. The case features a crystal aperture on the side to admire the tourbillon. $291,000 Where to buy Montecristo in Vancouver, Canada, +1 604 263 3611, girard-perregaux.com