Elite Traveler September-October 2017

elite traveler SEPT/OCT 2017 115

The Guide Founder of Go Local SPb, Natalia Slavyanskaya is a St Petersburg native — it is said you can only call yourself a native if you have a family member who survived the siege — and is passionate about sharing the best of her city with her clients, just as she has for the past 15 years. In the off-season, she is a lecturer in English at the university, so you can be assured you’ll find easy conversation and no language barriers. Personally vetted by Elite Traveler , she brings the city’s history and culture to life in a fun and accessible way, and can provide special access to museums and events. Contact natalia.slavyanskaya@gmail.com, golocalspb.com

CULTURAL COLLECTION

Orthodox cathedrals There’s no shortage of magnificent cathedrals in the city. Of course there’s the famous St Isaac’s Cathedral, which cuts an imposing figure in the city’s skyline, offers superb city views from its colonnade, and inside boasts nearly every type of decorative art, including columns covered in malachite and lapis lazuli. But don’t just stop there. The Cathedrals of Saints Peter and Paul, burial place of many members of the imperial family, date back to the city’s founding in the early 1700s and its iconic needle spire can be seen throughout much of the city. Church of the Resurrection of Christ is a superb example of traditional Russian-style churches, with an elaborate facade, more than 80,000 sq ft of colorful mosaics and iconic onion domes. And beautiful Smolny Cathedral could appear atop a wedding cake with its pale blue-and-white walls and delicate domes.

Bridges at night Every night at 1:30am, the bridges on the Neva River open to allow large ships to pass, effectively cutting off the two sides of the city. Before the construction of the ring road around the city, you had to closely watch the clock to be sure you didn’t get stuck on the wrong side of the river. Stay up late one night to see the bridges in action. As it’s one of the city’s most well-loved activities, the riverbanks are thronged with people, so it’s best to have your driver pull over for a quick photo or to enjoy an evening cruise and see the bridges open from the water. Mariinsky Theatre The Mariinsky Theatre has been an epicenter for Russian opera and ballet for more than two centuries, and launched the careers of many world-renowned dancers including Anna Pavlova and Mikhail Baryshnikov. Now in its 234th season, the theater shows both opera and ballet

performances, including Giselle and Swan Lake . Hotel Astoria has a close relationship with the theater and can arrange private behind-the-scenes tours before a performance, allowing you to walk across the raked stage, which slopes upwards to allow a view for the audience. As for the performance? The best seat in the house is the Tsar’s Box. Be sure to enjoy a glass of champagne and caviar on toast during the intermission for a fully Russian experience. mariinsky.ru The Museum of the Imperial Porcelain Factory The museum boasts a collection of more than 4,000 pieces of porcelain, including important imperial tea sets, dinner services, sculptures and vases. You can also tour the inner workings of the factory and see firsthand how its masterpieces are made. Unless you are an artist yourself, skip the decorating class and visit

the gift shop instead— it’s the best place to purchase porcelain in the city. Nevsky Prospekt The boulevard runs through the historic center of the city, and strolling along it offers a lovely view into city life. Wander through shops and high-end boutiques, admire the facade of Kazan Cathedral, and when you’ve had enough, enjoy lunch or tea at Cafe Singer, located on the second floor of the Singer Building (now the Dom Knigi book store), and watch the city pass you by. Rivers and canals See the city as Peter the Great intended — from the water. Initially, he forbade nobility from traveling by land and going by boat was the only way to get around. Spend a leisurely afternoon slowly cruising through the city on a small boat and enjoy the unique vantage point. Have your concierge book a classic speedboat and pack some champagne for a truly magical trip.

TAKE THREE/// MUSEUMS

1. THEWINTERPALACE Part of the State HermitageMuseum, theWinter Palace was the imperial home for nearly 200 years, beginning with Catherine the Great. With more than 120 rooms and three million objects, it’s one of the largest museums in the world. The State Rooms are staggering in their opulence and grandeur, with baroque and rococo architecture, gilt throughout, ornate decorations and moldings, frescoes and fine materials, including malachite columns, incredible mosaics and enormous chandeliers. Other highlights include the dramatic Jordan staircase, treasure gallery, peacock clock, Kolyvan Vase — carved from a single 19.2 ton piece of jasper — and works from Leonardo da Vinci, Michelangelo and Raphael. Also inside Palace Square are the General Staff Building and the Great Hermitage, which house temporary exhibitions and Italian Renaissance, 19th and 20th-century European art. During regular opening hours, especially during theWhite Nights, theWinter Palace is absolutely jam-packed, so have your guide arrange for early admission or a visit after hours to enjoy the palace in relative peace. hermitagemuseum.org 2. PETERHOF Dubbed ‘Russian Versailles,’ after which Peter the Great modeled his amazing summer palaces, Peterhof is an incredible complex with extensive grounds, several palaces, cathedrals and the world-famous Grand Cascade fountains. Much of the estate was razed by German troops duringWorld War II, but has been meticulously rebuilt and restored. Take a hydrofoil from the city center to enjoy views of from the water before wandering through the gardens and admiring the astonishingly ornate imperial palaces. peterhofmuseum.ru 3. FABERGÉ Find the world’s largest collection of Fabergé objects, including nine of the famous Easter eggs, at Shuvalov Palace, a spectacular space in its own right. The collection unfolds through a series of grand rooms and showcases all of its métiers d’art , including figurines, special objects, dining sets, jewelry and clocks. Be sure to book a private guided tour with one of the on-staff experts to hear about the many secrets of the pieces and the incredible design techniques of Carl Fabergé. fabergemuseum.ru