Elite Traveler Winter 2024/25

EXPLORE HOTLIST

The Rock Islands

Swirling discs of glinting copper, alien blue funnels, splintering coral branches in peppermint greens and gently swaying tufts of lavender were among the curios coalesced beneath us, a kaleidoscopic and mysterious realm I felt immensely privileged to see

marine biologist Óscar hosted regular presentations to educate us on Palau’s immaculate ecosystem, and a nightly screening showed us highlights of our day’s explorations, captured by Explorer ’s veryown on-board videographer. Often themed to di ff erent national cuisines, set menus at lunch and dinner showcased the likes of smoked moon fi sh carbonara, Vietnamese summer rolls and pineapple tart with cinnamon. Though the results didn’t always wow me, those new culinary experiences each day provided an opportunity to take pause and re fl ect onour latest adventures. There were other unexpected highlights too. One rainbow- fl ecked evening, after we’d settled within a sheltered bay that overlooked a cluster of the undulating Rock Islands, I kayaked through a natural limestone arch to take in the full grandeur of this

primordial landscape, all alone from water level. Bursts of forestry surrounded me, elegant snow-white terns swirled overhead — and that’s all there was. I had nothing to do but sit back, take it in and occasionally swish my fi ngertips through glassy, sage-green waters. I’ve rarely experienced such a profound sense of calm and tranquility. That’s a moment that still lingers strongly in my memory, interspersed with recollections of other excursions that provided sometimes startling insights into Palau’s mottled history. Another sweltering day, we ventured to Peleliu, a sleepy island home to just 500 or so unhurried locals. But during World War II this was the site of ferocious onslaughts between American and Japanese soldiers that resulted in the deaths of thousands. Deeply respectful of this challenging legacy, a guide led us to the few stark ruins and exhibits that signposted this devastating period: Abandoned tanks now tangled in enveloping greenery; the crumbling shell of what was once a Japanese military base. One other humid morning provided an immersion in Palau’s past that was signi fi cantly more uplifting. We made our way to the state of Airai, where a group of local women, in fl uential fi gures in Palau’s enduring matrilineal society, gave us more insights into the color of their heritage and history. Despite past incursions from Spain, the US, Japan and Germany, the Palauans’ way of life has remained remarkably and beautifully intact. The Palauan language — highly complex, entirely distinct — persists, and the country’s young people, now increasingly assured a secure future in Palau through the development of thoughtful and responsible tourism out fi ts developed in cooperation with the likes of Four Seasons, are building their own lives in Palau rather than seeking their fortune elsewhere. As we ended our meeting, the women, wearing earrings fashioned from papaya leaves, performed a song that paid tribute to their ancestors, village leaders and all the natural abundance that surrounded them. It was languid, re fl ective and surprisingly moving; as they sang, I understood even more how proud the Palauan people understandably are, and why keeping this pristine paradise intact remains so fundamental to them. By John O’Kelly From $3,696 per night, based on double occupancy, fourseasons.com

Kayaking through Palau’s primordial landscape