Elite Traveler Winter 2024/25

EXPLORE THE JOURNEY

Below Close up of the Hieroglyphs at the Temple of Philae

laugh at the same moments and share personal hopes and dreams. In tune with us, Ramadan creates the choreography for each day based on what intrigues us or what questions we asked yesterday. He’s always full of surprises: food to try, introductions to a local expert, shopping tips, help with bartering or behind-the-scenes discovery excursions — even impromptu ones. Besides sipping cocktails and standing at the helm of the boat as it sails and thinking joyfully: “I’m gliding down the Nile,” the highlight today happens at the Temple of Karnak. There, Ramadan, as usual a fount of information, leads us through the massive complex with the dexterity of a ballroom dancer on a well-polished fl oor. Ricocheting through the ruins speedily, we shoot through alleyways and chambers, passing by carved walls and sanctuaries. Clusters of tourists with guides mob the place, sometimes blocking our way. But our talented Egyptologist has a destination in mind far from the madding crowd. We trek after him to a far corner of the massive temple complex, where we hit a wall. “Just a minute. Stay right here,” he says. We watch him disappear to chat with a uniformed man — perhaps a security guard or amuseumo ffi cial. When Ramadan returns, he’s swinging an ancient-looking, old-school key attached to a ring. Grinning, as if performing a magic trick, he uses it to unlock what turns out to be a centuries-old door. Ramadan pushes the portal open to reveal a hidden temple. Inside, in semi-darkness, with just enough dappled sunlight for a halo e ff ect, we see an ancient statue of the goddess Sekhmet — a woman with a lioness head sitting on a throne. Amanda and I swoon. “She draws all the empaths and spiritualists,” Ramadan says, just as Amanda and I swear we see Sekhmet’s eyes blink. DAYFIVE Today we wander the Temple of Horus, enjoy an Egyptian cooking class on board the boat and later disembark at Kom Ombo to explore the Greco Roman temple, which honored Sobek the crocodile god, thought by some ancient Egyptians to be the creator of the world. The mummi fi ed crocs are as

has enviable photography skills and he makes us model. Thus pressured, we channel our inner Cleopatra. DAYTHREE We leave very early to fl y to Luxor, where we visit the Temple of Luxor and Valley of the Kings. Whisked about by Ramadan, once again we arrive and depart without the throngs. We seem to have every site to ourselves. Even within the tombs of Tutankhamun and Seti I, father of Ramses II, we fi nd ourselves nearly alone — just us and a mummy or two. Today, Amanda and I begin to notice that Ramadan has a mystical way of speaking. His stories feel like a continuum that links time and metaphysical space. I love that he ends many proclamations with the words “so far,” reminding us that history never ends, that new events happen as we speak, that old objects and stories will be found and reinterpreted. For many visitors to Egypt, a multiday cruise on the

Nile is de rigueur. So, on this day we board Sanctuary Nile Adventurer, one of A&K’s intimate river vessels. After checking in to posh staterooms, we watch the sun set like a succulent lemon falling from the sky, just as the evening call to prayer echoes from mosque to mosque. Recommendation: Those traveling together in small groups wishing a private sailing on a Tailor Made Journey should request the Sanctuary Zein Nile Chateau , the newest and most lavishly designed vessel. With just six rooms and suites, this authentic dahabiya (traditional Egyptian sailing boat) has been built to international high standards. Its smaller size ensures it can dock in lesser-traveled ports while o ff ering solitude seekers an extra layer of extreme privacy. DAYFOUR By now, Amanda, Ramadan and I have developed a harmonic fl ow a trois . We’ve begun to dress alike,

Diving into the vibe, we yield to the sensory overload — it’s a tonic for living well. We take that vivacity home as the best possible souvenir

Photos Suzanne Teng, Richard Nowitz/Abercrombie & Kent Picture Library, Sanctuary Retreats, Dan Wiencek