Elite Traveler Winter 2020

Restaurants

ALCRON For an intimate and memorable meal, step back into the 1930s at Alcron Hotel’s signature restaurant. A semi-circular roomwith just 24 seats, it’s dominated by a wraparound Jazz Age Art Deco mural, offset by the romantic glow of a 1930s fireplace. The food, in contrast, is hyper-modern and refined. Expect decadent dishes like foie gras with papaya, gooseberry and macadamia nuts, and pumpkin soup with kumquat, chilli and parmesan on the chef’s six-course tasting menu, as well as an excellent selection of Czech wines. +420 222 820 000, alcron.cz LA DEGUSTATION This is one of two Michelin-starred restaurants in Prague, with a food philosophy of small, thought- provoking meals that arouse the senses. Dining here is an opportunity for foodies to experience Czech food, with recipes loosely based on a famous Czech cookbook from the late 19th century. Memorable dishes like pork cheek with celery root and kale and beef tenderloin, lard and beetroot showcase the seasonal produce sourced from the restaurant’s trusted farmers, foragers and hunters, and the cellar celebrates small European growers with a well-curated selection of Czech wines. It’s tucked away in a historic building at the end of a narrow lane, the atmosphere is warm but elegant, with an open kitchen that lets you see the chefs in action. +420 222 311 234, ladegustation.cz FIELD Prague’s second Michelin-starred restaurant, Field, is a farm-to-fork destination that emphasizes food in its natural form, with clean-cut flavors and innovative presentation. Menu standouts include sturgeon, fennel, shallot and dill; and pork, pea, beetroot and speck. A highlight for non-drinkers is the sophisticated pairing of non-alcoholic drinks that can be offered with your meal. Situated in the Old Town near the Jewish Quarter, the vibe is hip and contemporary. Be prepared to book in advance, as it’s quite popular. Fun fact: Field’s executive chef is the main judge on MasterChef Czech Republic . +420 222 316 999, fieldrestaurant.cz CAFE SAVOY Founded in 1893, Cafe Savoy is the premier breakfast destination in Prague. Located on the west bank of the river near Kampa Park, it’s one of Prague’s grand cafes, housed in a spectacular Art Nouveau building with a 23-ft Neo-Renaissance ceiling with glistening chandeliers that add to its feeling of grandeur. With impeccable service and excellent food (breakfast is served well into the afternoon) it’s worth joining the often long queue for a table. Alongside a variety of traditional Czech cakes and pastries baked in-house, the signature Savoy breakfast is a highlight, featuring French toast with apples and maple syrup, alongside eggs, yogurt and fruit. +420 731 136 144, cafesavoy.ambi.cz

18th century, which was once played by Mozart. Traversing the Jewish Quarter and connecting the Old Town Square with Čechův Bridge, Parizska Street is Prague’s most prestigious shopping destination —Parizska taking its name from Paris because of its chic Parisian boulevard feel. It’s lined with stately townhouses, and you’ll find a wide range of luxury boutiques and most of the top fashion houses, from Prada to Burberry, as well as seriously smart cafes, restaurants and bars. At Christmas, its trees are strung with white fairy lights and the shops are all lavishly decorated. And if all the shopping becomes too exhausting, hop in one of the many horse-drawn carriages that trot along the area’s charming cobbled streets.

working in the world. Mounted on the side of the Old Town Hall, the clock has an astronomical dial, a calendar with medallions and, on the hour, it springs to life with a mechanized show of 12 rotating apostles, and an hourglass-wielding figure of death. Arrive at least 15 minutes before the hour to get a good viewing spot, as crowds quickly form. A distinctive landmark in the Lesser Town alongside the Castle, The Church of St Nicholas is one of Europe’s finest examples of High Baroque architecture and design. On its dome, Johann Kracker’s impressive Apotheosis of St Nicholas is Europe’s largest fresco. Concerts are held in the church year-round on the historic organ dating to the

WINTER WONDERLAND Few cities can match Prague’s beauty during the winter months, when flurries of snow and twinkling festive lights inspire a whole new level of romance. Its Christmas markets are regarded as some of Europe’s best. Running from the end of November through early January in the Old Town Square andWenceslas Square, each market features rows of colorful wooden huts playing Christmas songs, selling handmade decorations, souvenirs and festive fare like spicy gingerbread and warming cups of svařák, a Czech mulled wine. There are miniature ice rinks, and nativity scenes, and each square is presided over by a twinkling Christmas tree cut from Czech forests. For some seasonal culture, don’t miss a production of The Nutcracker ballet at the splendid National Theatre; the city’s many churches also frequently play host to atmospheric Christmas concerts.