Elite Traveler Summer 2020

EXPLORE AMALFI COAST

From top Visit the fishing village of Cetera; taste wine at Cantine Marisa Cuomo; indulge in spaghetti alla nerano

Limone ripieno at La Caravella

Act like a local

Acquapazza The fishing village of Cetara is built on anchovies. Locals and visitors alike make the trek here to try the salty fish at its source, as well as the signature fermented anchovy-based Colatura di Alici sauce that has roots going back to Roman times. One of the best places to indulge in both is the beachy-chic restaurant Acquapazza, where chef Gennaro Castiello and his team serve up dishes like perfectly fried anchovies (pair themwith a glass of bubbly) and pastas tossed with tuna or other fresh catches. Be sure to grab a bottle of Colatura di Alici sauce on your way out. +39 089 261606 CantineMarisa Cuomo While other regions like Tuscany and Piedmont may be better known on the international wine stage, Campania produces its own bottles, too — and some of the best come from this winery on the Amalfi Coast. Book a guided tour to visit the estate’s cellars and vineyards; the latter stretch out on sloping terraces along the Furore fjord, overlooking the Gulf of Salerno. When it’s time to taste, you’ll find a range of whites and reds made from lesser-known varieties like Falanghina and Piedirosso — but given the sunny setting, a glass of the Marisa Cuomo rosato is always a good bet. marisacuomo.com RistoranteMaria Grazia When out for a day on the water, locals and Amalfi regulars often drop anchor in the seaside village of Nerano, both to enjoy some time on its beaches (there are a few sandy coves fromwhich to choose) and to fuel up with plates of spaghetti alla nerano , the famous dish in which pasta is tossed with fried zucchini and Provolone del Monaco until it’s a blend of cheesy goodness. While you’ll now find the dish served in many places along the coast, it’s believed to have been invented in 1952 at this rustic spot overlooking Marina del Cantone. Settle at one of the long wooden tables on the deck to enjoy it, as well as fresh seafood, olive oil-drizzled veggies and glasses of crisp local wine. ristorantemariagrazia.com

Linguine fruitti di mare at Conca del Sogno

COASTAL FLAVORS

La Caravella In a 12th-century building near the historic Amalfi shipyards sits the first restaurant in southern Italy to earn a Michelin star — a distinction it has now earned multiple times over, including this year. Opened in 1959, the self-proclaimed ‘restaurant museum’ celebrates local flavors in dishes like lemon-scented risotto with shrimp, lemon leaves stuffed with fish, smoked mozzarella ravioli and Scialatielli, a thick, rope-like pasta — now a signature of the region — that was created at this restaurant in the 1970s. Before or after your meal, be sure to take in the frescoes, antique ceramics and other artwork that adorn the spaces, or ask to visit the wine cellar, often said to be among the best-stocked in Italy. ristorantelacaravella.com

Don Alfonso 1890 While you might have seen Don Alfonso pop-ups in locations as far-flung as Toronto and New Zealand, foodies can’t miss a visit to the two-Michelin-starred flagship, set high above the coast in the tiny village of Sant’Agata sui Due Golfi. What started a half-century ago as a small restaurant has grown to include an organic farm, boutique inn and cooking school, but the heart of the family-run operation is still the elegant dining room, where a father-and-son team create beautiful tasting menus reflecting the region’s bounty. Pair meals with something from the 25,000-bottle cellar, then take home some Don Alfonso packaged foods — such as preserved tomatoes straight from the gardens. donalfonso.com

Conca del Sogno Everyone, from families out for a Sunday sail to celebrities trying to fly under the radar, comes to this favorite on Recommone Bay to soak up the fresh sea air and impeccable cuisine. While you can access the eatery by car (plus a short walk down to the beach), the most iconic way to arrive is by boat; pull your yacht up in the bay, then hop onto one of the restaurant’s small wooden boats, which stand ready to ferry guests back and forth. Once seated on the terrace, savor elegantly presented dishes that highlight fresh seafood, including octopus and lobster, caught daily by local fishermen. Pastas and other signatures are also available, but the best thing to order is usually whatever

the staff suggests. concadelsogno.it