Elite Traveler Spring 2022

119 etr li at ve eler SPRING 2022

MED MEALS

Occupying Iniala Harbour House’s top fl oor, ION – The Harbour attracted curious locals upon its opening with the promise of up-market fi ne dining and peerless views of the golden- stoned Grand Harbour. Gourmands from all over Europe swiftly followed when the restaurant won a Michelin star just six months later. If anything, standards have improved further under new chef Alex Dilling (previously of The Connaught and The Greenhouse in London). His menu makes inventive use of Malta’s fresh-as-can-be seafood (expect the likes of line-caught lampuki with smoked cream and dill), and his e ff orts in the kitchen are complemented by a passionate sommelier who has compiled one of Malta’s most considered and impressive wine lists. The only thing I regret about my visit to Hammett’s Macina is that I didn’t order a second serving of the tahini fondant with chocolate ice cream (I just stopped typing this sentence so I could yet again reminisce about the best dessert I’ve eaten in the last year). There are other reasons to visit this casual, welcoming waterside restaurant, however: The menu more generally o ff ers beautifully presented, indulgently nourishing and unwaveringly delicious modern Mediterranean dishes, such as the most tender lamb imaginable served with polenta, rosemary, parmesan, caramalized butter and ras el hanout. A new addition to the Beefbar brand that found fame as a beach club in Monaco, Beefbar Malta’s glitzy seaside hangout is indicative of Malta’s more explicit pursuit of moneyed travelers. It isn’t all style and no substance, however. Served

generously, the food is delicious and not just for meat maniacs: Alongside gargantuan burgers, there’s sprightly sea bass ceviche, steamed ginger sea bream and a decadent signature chocolate sou ffl é. Afterwards guests can lounge poolside with jeroboams of Miraval rosé. In the basement of Valletta’s Rosselli hotel, Michelin-starred Under Grain is a hearty and handsome space, with interiors and a service concept inspired by the craftsmanship and precision of tailoring (a cluster of tailors once worked on the street surrounding the restaurant); look out for charming touches such as bills presented on pin cushions. As for the menu, it’s anchored in Mediterranean in fl uences. Try the ‘ fi sh du jour’ glazed with brown butter dashi, local snails à la ‘grenobloise’ and a Marsala emulsion, and fi nish with the chef’s signature dessert: a baked white chocolate cheesecake with sensibilities but incorporates occasional French and Asian

Above Cuisine from Hammett’s Macina Below The terrace at ION - The Harbour

KEMPINSKI HOTEL SAN LAWRENZ Three-bedroom Apartment

Towards the isolated western edge of go-slow Gozo, the Kempinski is a sprawling hideaway so well-equipped that some guests might stay for a week without ever leaving the property. There are two fl oodlit tennis courts, two squash courts, three pools, endless gardens and a cosseting spa sta ff ed with specialists in Ayurvedic therapies. To make the most of Malta’s warm weather, dine at any of the Kempinski’s three restaurants — all three have generous terraces, ideal for enjoying languid alfresco meals on sultry evenings. The varied 137-key inventory means the adaptable hotel attracts multigenerational bookings, groups of friends and the occasional wedding party, as well as couples and families. Take full advantage of Gozo’s Mediterranean climate in the generous Three-bedroom Apartment, which features a south-facing wraparound terrace of over 700 sq ft that o ff ers direct access to the pools. Inside, you will fi nd a fully equipped kitchen that resort chefs can use to cater in-house soirees. While one of the surrounding area’s most famed attractions is no more — a natural stone arch that extended from the shoreline, the Azure Window collapsed into the sea in 2017 — the dramatic marine conservation area of Dwejra, with its salt pans and well- regarded dive sites, waits for whichever Kempinski guests might eventually feel compelled to explore beyond the resort’s doors. From $702 per night. Contact Deryk Sacco, assistant director of sales, deryk.sacco@kempinski.com, +35 622 115 250, kempinski.com

passionfruit sorbet. iontheharbour.com; hammettsmacina.com; malta.beefbar.com; grain.mt