Elite Traveler September-October 2016

elite traveler SEPT/OCT 2016 121

INSIDER TIPS: WHERE TO SHOP

Anglo-Argentine writer and trend-hunter Vanessa Bell has lived in Buenos Aires since 2010. She blogs on food, design and fashion at cremedelacremeba.com and curates bespoke shopping tours for visitors who want more than leather belts and posh polo gear. Here are some non-obvious retail spaces from her little black book.

Clockwise from left: Fashion at Juan Hernández Daels; sweet treats and deli delights at Farinelli

Late-night Buenos Aires

Dinner Porteños do everything late, often not going out for dinner until 10pm.

Nightclubbing only starts around 2am.

always done really well at arteBA (the big local art festival) and represents some fantastic emerging artists. Owner Irana Douer is a good friend of mine and she has impeccable taste. She’s always sold independent press, prints and other collectibles, and her gallery doubles as a shop. Avenida Forest 379, galeriaruby@gmail.com, galeriaruby.com.ar FOR JEWELRY Aracano is a store that does an upscale jewelry line inspired by Andean design that I adore. aracano.com FORMEN’S FOOTWEAR Correa is a third-generation bespoke shoemakers tucked away in non-touristy Abasto. It still employs artisan techniques and machinery from the 1950s, and utilizes premium Argentine leather.

FOR FASHION Juan Hernández Daels is an Argentine-Belgian designer who cut his teeth in Antwerp and sells his collections in Paris as well as in his eponymous Recoleta boutique, inaugurated in 2014. Come here for ethereal-yet-wearable pieces in monochrome and muted hues, and feminine cuts. His latest collection melds a nod to Bowie with a 1960s French aesthetic. Libertad 1696, sales@ juanhernandezdaels.com, +54 11 4815 4326, juanhernandezdaels.com old-fashioned hat shop, with artisan production in-house on a wide selection of beautiful pressed felt hats. Avenida Rivadavia 1923, +54 11 4953 2257 FOR CONTEMPORARY ART Galería Ruby just reopened in brand-new premises. Ruby has FOR HEADGEAR Maidana is an amazing

FOR DELI FOOD Farinelli has freshly made food with an Ottolenghi vibe, to eat in or to go. Hearty salads and sandwiches, amazing sweet goods, juices and decent coffee. Its original calle Bulnes branch is my favorite, but its Retiro branch (in Arroyo) is also gorgeous, and more spacious. Bulnes 2707, info@farinelli.com.ar, +54 11 4802 2014, Arroyo 900, +54 11 4328 7998, farinelli.com.ar FOR COFFEE Birkin is a chic café in the fashion-conscious Botanical Gardens area. Great coffee and a must for a weekend brunch to see and be seen. República Árabe Siria 3061, +54 11 4843 7470, facebook.com/birkincafe

Night at the opera The Teatro Colón , Buenos Aires’ world-class lyric theater is used for opera, ballet and classical concerts. The season typically runs March through to December. teatrocolon.org.ar/en Traditional tango A lot of the shows are cheesy and touristy, however, a lot of milongas (dance meets) are perfect for aficionados. If you want to hear good tango music, head for Torquato Tasso – a supper club that has a small stage, which hosts great local artists. torquatotasso.com.ar

To arrange a bespoke shopping trip with Vanessa, send an email to info@cremedelacremeba.com, call her on +54 9 11 3857 8127, or log onto her website at cremedelacremeba.com

Mario Bravo 750, info@ calzadoscorrea.com.ar, +54 11 4861 7344, calzadoscorrea.com.ar

Photos: Jens Boldt, Joseph Rodriguez, Chris M Rogers/Gallery Stock; Luis Sens/C&V Magazine; Rodrigo Ruiz Garcia; Lonely Planet, Michael Lewis/Getty Images