Elite Traveler May-June 2017

INFLUENCE WINE

elite traveler MAY/JUNE 2017 53

Victoria Daskal on the rising star of Barolo

A noble grape, an impressive pedigree, an ability to age well and its affinity with fine cuisine are just a few of the reasons you should reach for a bottle of Barolo

Burgundy, not to mention other regions in Italy. Even its easy pronunciation — ‘Ba-ro-lo’— rolls off the tongue when ordering in a restaurant. Extra points for following up with a particular commune — La Morra for a generally lighter style with delicate perfume, Serralunga d’Alba for a bolder tannic structure and Monforte d’Alba for more concentration and intensity. Ongoing price wars in Bordeaux and the crumbling en primeur system have also opened up opportunities for Barolo as an alternative investment. Over in Burgundy, supply is consistently outweighed by demand; tiny allocations give wine lovers very little access to their favorite bottles. While in Barolo, the average size of the producer is relatively small (many are still family owned) and there are many of them, making these top wines more available and more affordable than Burgundy and Bordeaux despite getting top reviews from critics. The acclaimed 2010 vintage in Barolo has played a large part in igniting interest from the international fine-wine market. Antonio Galloni called 2010 “one of the all-time great vintages for Italy’s most noble red.” Its affinity with a range of gastronomy is perhaps the most important reason for choosing Barolo. No top restaurant would dream of excluding Barolo from its wine list, even if the cuisine is not inherently Italian. The way the wine develops throughout a long drinking window, the different styles available and its common thread of delivering great structure, complexity and finesse complements and even sets off the best of dishes. With its impressive heritage and continuing progress, Barolo has risen to the challenge and secured its position as a first-class wine. Your task is to discover all it has to offer. Based in London, Victoria Daskal is the project manager at The World of Fine Wine magazine, and is studying for the prestigious Master of Wine. Visit worldoffinewine.com

The traditionalist Cavallotto Barolo Bricco Boschis

Wine connoisseurs and savvy sommeliers alike have recognized the quality and luxury of this wonderful red. Often overlooked in favor of Bordeaux or Burgundy in the search for perfection, Barolo is actually the one that ultimately delivers in many ways, leaving a haunting desire to discover more. The Nebbiolo grape is unique in that it produces wines that are distinctly different from the fine likes of Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir. It is not widely planted or imitated around the world, maintaining its special home in the Piedmont. Barolo’s long aging ability — due to its marked fresh acidity and firm tannic structure — allows it to develop into a wine of finesse and complexity. The traditional styles require long cellaring time to mature the tannins and allow for the fruit to evolve into a sweet and savory combination of tobacco, earth, rose and tar. Luckily for the less patient, a modern style has emerged that is approachable at an earlier stage and offers more forward fruit with

slightly riper tannic structure, and can be enjoyed without extensive aging. Pedigree is an important factor for a premium wine region. It gives new consumers the confidence to purchase and sommeliers to feature the wines on their menus. The list of Barolo producers reads like a magical roll call of iconic winemakers not only of Italy, but across world of fine wine. Giacosa, Conterno, Mascarello, Voerzio and Sandrone are just a taste of the superstars originating from this small region. Together they elevate the prestige of the area and have a halo effect on the smaller, lesser- known winemakers of Barolo. Despite Italy sometimes being perceived as a complicated wine country, Barolo is an easier beast to grapple with. There are many single vineyards with their own terroirs and styles, but the simplicity of Barolo being a single DOCG is very helpful to consumers, who despite years of appreciation can still be dumbfounded by Bordeaux and

The modernist Roberto Voerzio Barolo La Serra

The gem Ettore Germano Barolo Cerretta