Elite Traveler May-June 2015

INSPIRE ART AS FASHION

the first time a solo exhibition showcasing the work of the iconic designer will be seen in the UK. “I had been thinking for a while about doing something with a connection to our own French history,” says Hashagen, who has been with the Bowes for more than 30 years. A colleague put her in touch with the Paris-based foundation created by Pierre Bergé, Saint Laurent’s long-time partner, which both houses the designer’s archives and supports cultural programs. Before dashing off for a meeting at the foundation’s headquarters, Hashagen printed some photos of the Bowes – only to find when she arrived in Paris that the foundation’s headquarters at 5 Avenue Marceau was built in the same Second Empire style. “That was a good omen,” she says. Yves Saint Laurent: Style is Eternal will explore five themes throughout three galleries at the Bowes and will feature some of his most iconic pieces, including his 1965 Mondrian dress and his range of Le Smoking tuxedo suits. Knowing Saint Laurent’s penchant for art and textiles, Hashagen’s plan is to show the relationship between his designs and the decorative objects found within the Bowes’s permanent collection. “The starting point was our gallery,” Hashagen says, pointing to ecclesiastical textiles that married well with a Saint Laurent design in gold brocade, or the patchwork quilts that found a partner in the designer’s work of the 1970s. “We also have a world-class lace collection here that provided another link to his work,” she says. The easy blend of Saint Laurent’s work and the Bowes collection aside, Hashagen is pragmatic about the growing popularity of the fashion exhibition, especially one that captures the interest of mainstream visitors. “Most museums need more visitors and wider audiences,” she says, noting that, thanks largely to a 2011 exhibition showcasing the shoes of Vivienne Westwood, attendance at the Bowes more than doubled from one year to the next. “People who had never been here before came to see Westwood and couldn’t believe what they were finding with us. It was the biggest increase we had ever seen.” Shazia Boucher, curator for the Museum of Lace in Calais, France, is hoping her upcoming exhibition will draw similar attention. As of mid-March, the advance interest was promising. “Our phones have been ringing, and it’s quite wonderful,” she says. Cristóbal Balenciaga: Lace Magician opened in Calais on April 18 and showcases the legendary Spanish designer’s work with lace, especially the variety found in this northern French town, which also boasts the advantage of being an easy day trip from London or Paris. The idea for the exhibition came courtesy of Hubert de Givenchy, who visited the museum to discuss a retrospective of his own work. While the timing didn’t work for

Above Roberto Cavalli and Tom Ford dresses inspired by China, showing at the Met's China: Through the Looking Glass. Clockwise from top YSL Mondrian dress; short evening dress; portrait of the late designer in 1964

scenes at the V&A, it doesn’t necessarily matter that lightning will strike twice, though all expectations indicate that Savage Beauty will set a new record in London. Rather, it’s more important that the retrospective savors its moment within this particular venue. As Stanfill explains, “It feels as though the exhibition has come home”. , drove straight to us from Newcastle, and said of his journey, ‘Do you know, I’ve only seen sheep.’” Joanna Hashagen, fashion curator at the Bowes Museum, is recalling a recent visit by Jones, who had trekked from his base in London to the north of England to examine the space for a possible future exhibition. “It does seem like another world to some people, and we are a bit of an undiscovered gem,” Hashagen says. Built in the 19 th century in the style of a 17 th century French chateau, the Bowes houses a notable collection of European fine and decorative arts, much of which was acquired by John and Josephine Bowes while they were planning and building their home (they purchased more than 15,000 objects between 1862 and Josephine’s death in 1874). More than 140 years later, Hashagen is bringing a high-profile fashion exhibition to the Bowes, one that offers a nod to the building’s roots in French design. Yves Saint Laurent: Style is Eternal opens July 11 and is

"Stephen Jones, the milliner

Through August 23 Jeanne Lanvin

Through August 3

Through August 2

The Palais Galliera, Paris, France palaisgalliera.paris.fr

The Grand Palais, Paris, France grandpalais.fr

Jean Paul Gaultier

The Victoria & Albert Museum, London, UK vam.ac.uk/savagebeauty

Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty