Elite Traveler January-February 2017

87 elite traveler JAN/FEB 2017

restored 19th-century miner's hall in central Crested Butte, in time for salted plum margaritas at the tiny Dogwood Cocktail Cabin in town before an amazing supper, cooked by the talented chef Ashley in the open-plan kitchen and dining room. After an excellent night's sleep (each of the Lodge's five suites benefit from an automated oxygen delivery system to counter-balance Crested Butte's 9,115ft altitude), it's time for the highlight of my trip: cat-skiing on Mount Irwin. Like Scarp Ridge Lodge, Mount Irwin is owned by Chad Pike, the vice-chairman of real estate giant Blackstone Europe. Pike's snowy playground is set in the West Elk Mountains, 12 miles from town, and comprises 1,000 acres of chutes, glades, bowls and steeps doused in 600 inches of snow each winter. We reach Irwin aboard "The Tucker," an eight-foot-high supersized snowcat with four sets of articulating tracks, reclaimed timber interiors, leather seats, a minibar and plasma screen. Once there, having soaked up views of Pyramid Peak and Maroon Peak, we spend two days bouncing down virgin powder pillows, meandering through pine trees and whooping for joy down untracked bowls. Lunch and après beers are enjoyed in the old Movie Cabin before evenings at the Lodge, luxuriating in the spa, rooftop hot tub and cinema. As tempting as it is to stick purely to Irwin, head guide Steve Banks encourages us to ski with him on Crested Butte Mountain Resort (all ski guiding is included in the price of exclusive use of the Lodge), and we're rewarded with one of the best resort ski days I've ever experienced. The resort might lay claim to less than half the skiable acreage of Snowmass, but it's every advanced skier's dream, with 85 percent of marked trails rated as intermediate, advanced or expert and 542 acres of double diamond terrain. All too soon, it's time for the final leg of my ski safari – Telluride. I've saved the most dramatic landing for last: set on a plateau in the San Juan Mountains at 9,078ft above sea level, Telluride's

areas with floor-to-ceiling windows, hot tubs, steam rooms, games rooms – I could go on. Paley is a hands-on kind of guy, eager to meet guests and introduce them to his favorite runs on Snowmass (he'll give you a run for your money through the freshly gladed terrain on Burnt Mountain), and show them around the Mountain Rescue Center. He's wholesome, sun-beaten proof that there's more to Aspen than plush boutiques and oxygen canisters in hotel minibars – locals ski and play hard, and I've timed my flight to catch the sunset as we fly past a goldenMount Sopris and into the open valley of Gunnison appreciate the beauty of their surroundings. Ideally, one should spend a day skiing each of Aspen's four mountains, with an additional day for Snowmass, which alone boasts more skiable terrain (3,332 acres) than most North American resorts. Even doing so, I feel I've barely scratched the surface by the time I'm in the air again, bound for Crested Butte. However, I've timed my flight to catch the sunset as we fly past a golden Mount Sopris, over the Raggeds Wilderness and into the open valley of Gunnison, and private mountain cat-skiing awaits me in the "Crusty Butt." The handshake that greets me at Gunnison is even firmer than Paley's – Moose is a gentle giant who knows every Colorado fish by name and judges my ski boot size and DIN setting by eye. We reach Scarp Ridge Lodge, a beautifully

Faesslers recreated their traditional Bavarian house in the heart of the blossoming resort 60 years later, complete with gemütlichkeit , that Germanic cosiness, warmth and comfort. Vail's extensive ski area is accessed by a handful of base village lifts, including Gondola One, a four-minute stroll from the Sonnenalp (although the hotel's Skihaus concierge is at the base of the lift). Vail delivers more groomed terrain than any other resort in the world, spread across the Front Side of Vail Mountain, its seven Back Bowls and Blue Sky Basin. When the first day of my ski adventure dawned crisp and bright, I rode the lifts straight up to Buffalo's on Front Side to admire sweeping views of the vast area before whizzing down Vail's longest black run, the four-mile meandering Riva Ridge. Then it was time to lap the gentle Back Bowls (ideal for those looking to build powder skiing skills) before moving to the steeper, more challenging Blue Sky Basin to get my ski legs back. Leaving those powder-filled bowls after a few days was tough but Doug Paley, owner of my next pillow for the night, puts my mind at rest when he strides into the Aspen airport lounge. Meeting me with a firm handshake, Paley exudes vitality and passion for the mountains. President of Aspen's Mountain Rescue organization, Paley has lived here for 15 years and rents out his sprawling Snowmass home, Pioneer Canyon Ranch. Set in 40 acres of private grounds in the heart of a 300-acre ranch, the spectacular property comprises seven bedrooms, a private apartment, contemporary living and entertaining

Photos: Nathan Bilow, Gallery Stock