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Umana Bali, LXR Hotels &Resorts

dining is available 24/7 via a very quick and easy WhatsApp.

in-villa barbecue with juicy chicken satay and succulent lamb as you watch a traditional Legong performance; the ancient dance tradition, featuring the dancers’ dynamic fi nger-bending and intense facial expressions, leaves audiences in a trance. DINE Commune is an all-day spot where you can dine alfresco next to the in fi nity pool or inside the bright and cheerful restaurant. Breakfast is served here with an array of delights from fresh juice to typical Indonesian dishes. Pad Pool Bar, taking its name from the lush rice paddy, serves light bites and main courses. Park up here for sunset and enjoy the views with an inventive cocktail — the espresso martini is concocted with Arak, a traditional Balinese liquor made from fermented white rice and coconut palm fl owers; it is delightfully smooth. (An Arak tasting can also be arranged.) Oliverra is the resort’s specialty Mediterranean restaurant — it sits on the cli ff ’s edge and has the most sublime views over the ocean below and horizon beyond. Cooking classes are also available for those wanting to try their hand at making local cuisine, and in-villa

UMANA BALI, LXR HOTELS & RESORTS BALI, INDONESIA The fi rst LXR hotel in Southeast Asia, Umana is perched on Bali’s southernmost point on a cli ff some 230 ft above Melasti Beach in Ungasan. The villa-only resort has three restaurants, an expansive spa and well-equipped gym, two outdoor pools, a fantastic kid’s club and a striking glass-topped chapel overlooking the ocean. STAY The villas start at a very spacious 4,340 sq ft. Each one has a 32-ft in fi nity pool and hot tub (the fl oor-to-ceiling windows and sliding doors mean you can step directly into the pool from your bedroom); a spacious deck with sun loungers, daybed and alfresco dining space; and an outdoor shower, plus a blossoming frangipani tree — the fl ower is used in Balinese o ff erings and is a cherished symbol of the island. (Be sure to keep the sliding doors closed, though, or you might fi nd yourself with a monkey villa-mate.) Inside, there’s a large living area and dining space, guest bathroom, enormous master bathroom with a deep-soaking tub, his-and-her vanities and a dressing area. The largest villa is the Three-bedroom Umana Ocean View. Set within its own 12,915-sq-ft estate, it features an indoor dining room with space for eight, a marble-clad bar with an adjacent pool table, huge tub, outdoor and indoor rain shower, and living room with a piano. Outside, there’s an 82-ft in fi nity pool and two spaces for alfresco dining. Organize an

EXPLORE Melasti Beach is a brief drive away, and Umana has a dedicated space there with sun loungers, chilled white wine and watermelon juice. Melasti Beach is also home to an amphitheater. Don’t miss the traditional Kecak dance — no musical instruments are used; instead, a large group of male performers chant ‘cak’ in various rhythmic patterns. The dance depicts the story of Prince Rama and his quest to rescue his wife, Sita, from the demon king Ravana. It is a riot of color, drama and spectacle — bales of hay are set alight and performers dance right through the fl ames. To explore further a fi eld, Umana can arrange a yacht charter (I was lucky enough to see a pod of dolphins during our day at sea) or a whole plethora of cultural experiences including a soul blessing in an ancient temple and a visit to a nearby market. By Samantha Coles From $845 per night. Contact umanabali.reservations@hilton.com, +62 361 300 7000, hilton.com

The main pool

One of the villas