Elite Traveler Fall 2021

etr li at ve eler FALL 2021 89

PATEK PHILIPPE IN- LINE PERPETUAL CALENDAR REF. 5236P This year, the venerable Patek Philippe, a master at complications, unveiled a new perpetual calendar watch that wowed the collector world. The In-Line Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5236P is the brand’s first wristwatch to display the day, date and month in a single horizontal line of apertures across the dial. Three patent applications were filed by Patek for the new self-winding movement, Caliber 31-260 PS QL, which required an additional 118 parts above those typically found in the brand’s conventional calendar. The patent applications are for the display system (which uses double ball bearings), the shock absorber and anti-double-jump feature (that improves readability of the date and synchronization of the numeral disks), and the date mechanism (that ensures a smooth transition between months). On the lower portion of the dial resides the second hand and a moonphase indication. To the right and left of the circular subsidiary dial are the leap year and the day/night display. $ l bl k h l 130,110, avai a e at Pate P i ippe at Geary’s Beverly Hills, +1 310 273 4741, patek.com

H. MOSER & CIE. ENDEAVOUR MINUTE REPEATER TOURBILLON Independent Swiss watch brand H. Moser & Cie., which is known for its complex yet subtly beautiful watches (as well as for thinking outside the proverbial box when it comes to watchmaking) teamed up with Timeless SA — a specialist in minute repeaters — to unveil an all-new watch that showcases its two high complications in all their glory on the dial. The minute repeater, a complication mastered by only the finest brands, chimes the time using hammers and gongs that are most often placed on the caseback of the watch and are not visible. This is a practice that more and more brands are trying to overturn as they strive to find ways to bring those hammers and gongs to the dial side. By curving the chimes of the mechanical hand-wound HMC 903 caliber and moving their typical level location within the movement, H. Moser and Timeless have been able to bring the repeater dial-side. Additionally, because H. Moser is a master at delivering very clean and beautiful lacquered dials, the minute repeater, with its long circular gongs reaching around the outer portion of the dial, is much more intriguing. Being able to watch the hammers as they strike the gongs, with no other mechanical parts obscuring the view, is a spectacular feat — especially against the electric blue shade of the lacquer. Similarly, the one-minute flying tourbillon exposed at 6 o’clock on the dial offers superb technical beauty. The minute repeater slide on the case side is fitted on Teflon to ensure a smooth activation. The watch is crafted in titanium, which is thought to amplify the sound of the chimes. $330,000, available at Exquisite Timepieces in Florida, +1 239 227 2932, h-moser.com