Elite Traveler January-February 2019

elite traveler JAN/FEB 2019 137

Soul food by Lee Cobaj

As difficult as it may be to drag yourself away from the decadent tented suites at the newly opened, Bill Bensley- designed Capella Ubud resort, it would be shameful tomiss out on themany wonders Bali has to offer. To resolve this dilemma, it offers a range of unique ways to see and connect with the island—while ensuring thorough pampering along the way, of course. Experiences include a private helicopter tour of the golden beaches on the island of Nusa Penida, culinary tours of local farmhouses and cocoa plantations, and mountain biking down the active volcanoMount Batur. On the cultural side of things, A Journey for the Soul takes you to a trifecta of ancient Hindu temples. Accompanied by a Balinese healer, the adventure begins on the edges of Batur with a short blessing ceremony at the colorful Pura Ulun Danu Batur temple, which overlooks the caldera and the navy blue waters of Lake Batur. From here, the newly anointed are driven through lush countryside to 1,000-year-old Pura Pucak Penulisan. Perched at 5,725 ft above sea level, it is Bali’s highest temple, and the scenic views over a patchwork of rice terraces all the way to the Singaraja coast are sublime. After admiring Pucak Penulisan’s spectacular panorama, pretty courtyards and fascinating artifacts, the journey continues with a downhill drive through bountiful fields of oranges, coconuts and tropical flowers to Pura Dalem Balingkang. Set in a broad valley and little known to visitors, this serene temple is dedicated to the tale of a local king who fell in love with and married a Chinese bride, and it mixes the architecture of both cultures to beautiful effect — think curling stone dragons, red lanterns and thick alang-alang thatched roofs. Afterwards, a checkered blanket is laid out in a private spot in the gardens for a leisurely picnic. As with the rest of the resort’s restaurants, the menu is overseen by Matt McCool, protégé of TomAikens and Gordon Ramsay, and features wooden tiffins filled with the likes of fig and goat cheese salad, freshly baked breads, Italian hams, lemon cake and chocolate brownies. Rates from$1,170 per night, A Journey for the Soul $127 per person. Contact Simon Dornan, general manager, simon.dornan@capellahotels.com, +62 361 209 1888, capellahotels.com

pool on your Instagram feed. The clouds drift by below, and it’s easy to spend hours relaxing in the hot tub as you watch seaplanes and helicopters pass by. The crisp mountain air is sure to give you a rosy glow, but head to theWaldhotel if you’re after something more extensive. The curious structure looks like a futuristic tree house, and was fashioned with wood from the nearby forest and stone from the site’s excavation. It has 23 medical rooms that offer minor surgeries, X-rays and cosmetic treatments; cyrotherapy; a rehab swimming pool with wheelchair access; plus a huge menu of treatments and programs. Penthouse from$10,000 per night. Contact Robert Herr, general manager, info@buergenstock.ch, +41 416 126 000, buergenstock.ch

point is at the top of the Hammetschwand elevator. It was initially built in 1905 and stands as the highest outdoor elevator in Europe. If you do one thing, this is it — after taking a pleasantly meandering stroll through the mountainside, you’ll reach the elevator and travel 500 ft in less than a minute to the top of the Hammetschwand mountain. On a clear day, you can see the Swiss Alps in the distance. Even if it is a cloudy day (as it was when my acrophobia and I went up), it’s hauntingly beautiful to see the lake blanketed in clouds below. Of course, Switzerland is known for having the world’s best spas, and Bürgenstock certainly upholds that reputation. The chalet-style Alpine Spa is home to the infinity pool with the most jaw-dropping views of the lake below and the mountains — you’ve more than likely seen the