Elite Traveler January-February 2019

EXPLORE CAPE TOWN GUIDE TO CAPETOWN

Otherworldly. That’s likely to be your first descriptor when you catch sight of Cape Town’s surrounding landscape, a convergence of craggy peaks, roiling seas, sprawling gardens and green spaces, bustling harbors, inviting beaches and centuries-old architecture. A study in contrasts, the city, once merely a spice-route stopover, today holds a patchwork of cultures, most dating back hundreds of years. From the orderly Dutch to the winemaking French to indigenous people and the descendants of Malay slaves, the Mother City (as even Capetonians call it) manifests a rich societal mishmash, a gravitas evident in the food, arts, history, edginess and forward-thinking style of the general populace. Despite the global population, everyone shares an unabashed adoration of the magnificent outdoors. It’s a place where it’s not uncommon to see wandering baboons (near Cape Point), whales breaching (near False Bay), sharks up-close from underwater cages (if you dare), penguins (Boulders Beach), ostriches and wildebeest. Cape Town also brandishes hip, gallery-filled streets, celebrity-chef-driven restaurants and nearby wine regions as sophisticated and charming as Napa Valley. Cape Town, exotic yet accessible, makes an ideal spot to begin a safari adventure to Kruger National Park. And the view of iconic Table Mountain, crowned by a halo of clouds? That’s worth every hour of the long flight to arrive.

DINE WELL

The Greenhouse Ever nibbled a madumbi ? At The Greenhouse, acclaimed chef Peter Tempelhoff promises you’ll take a liking to this indigenous tuber. While at his airy restaurant, ensconced in the Cellars-Hohenort Hotel and nestled among gardens on Table Mountain, you’ll experience other local fare like alikreukel , a sea snail. The Greenhouse offers two seasonal tasting menus, each showcasing regional customs and ingredients in an unforgettable culinary adventure. Expect pairings from South African vineyards and dishes like lamb with sweetbreads. greenhouserestaurant.co.za

The Test Kitchen This creative restaurant by chef Luke Dale-Roberts is on everybody’s bucket list. Theatrical, with unexpected flourishes, The Test Kitchen brings to play a kind of moveable feast concept. Guests sip cocktails and eat first courses in the Dark Room (a shadow- filled, intimate lounge) before moving to the Light Room next door. From its chic, industrial architecture to the servers’ uniforms, an artsy mood prevails, foretelling the creative nature of Dale-Roberts’ fare. Expect very local items, such as oryx , as well as more recognizable creations from curry to ceviche — but always with a bold twist. thetestkitchen.co.za

by Becca Hensley

La Colombe Get thee to the vineyard. La Colombe perches atop a hill overlooking Silvermist organic wine estate. Casually elegant, this gourmand’s favorite puts out festive cooking, which shows a true understanding of French technique and ritual, while modernizing the game with Asian and Capetonian notes. The wunderkind chef team of James Gaag and Scot Kirton plan dishes ideal for pairing with local wine. Splurge on the 10-course epicurean menu, a journey which may include scallops, venison and more — including the famous tuna dish, brought in through a back door and served like a picnic. lacolombe.co.za

Photo H&&L