Elite Traveler January-February 2019

elite traveler JAN/FEB 2019 131

WHERE TO STAY

1. EXPLORA TORRES DEL PAINE A pioneer of luxurious Patagonian lodging, the Explora occupies an enviable position on the shores of Lake Pehoe, with superb views of the Torres del Paine. Stays include a dedicated guide and a menu of excursions into the park, including hiking, horseriding and a journey across the lake by catamaran. Exploradores Suite from $4,780 per person; three-night minimum. Contact Gabriel Zanelli, hotel manager, gzanelli@explora.com, +1 800 838 9120, explora.com 2. ESTANCIA PEUMAHUE Take over a lush corner of northern Patagonia by renting an entire estancia for a night or two. On the edge of Nahuel Huapi Lake, 14-room Peuma Hue is set amid dramatic mountains, glorious forests and waterfalls, and offers riding, kayaking, fishing and hiking outings. Homey meals are cooked to order. Exclusive use from $7,700 per night. Contact Luis Pennacca, general manager, info@peuma-hue.com, +54 294 450 1030, peuma-hue.com 3. THE SINGULAR This landmark hotel, one of the most striking architectural buildings in Patagonia, is built around a sprawling former cold storage plant (which operated 1915-1971). One section is a museum, with a Victorian-era engine room, tannery and blacksmith shop open to view. Rooms are bolted on to the back, with huge windows looking out to Last Hope Sound and exposed concrete decor and bare wooden fixtures. The vast restaurant serves dreamy ceviche and great steaks. Singular Suite $845 per night. Contact carole@thesingular.com, +56 612 722 030, thesingular.com

WHEN IN PATAGONIA

Fly fishing Tierra del Fuego’s Río Grande flows from the Andes to the Atlantic Ocean through approximately 60 miles of Argentine territory. It’s called the world’s most active sea-run trout fishery, with 20-pounders a routine catch, and the slow-moving water is great for spey casters. Villa María offers anglers first dibs at newly arrived sea trout on the lower Río Grande; the cozy lodge hosts only six anglers at a time, with top-notch cuisine. Guides know the pools and the fish; days are spent on the water, with convenient huts for midday breaks. From $8,950 per week per person, Perhaps it’s the gaucho heritage or simply the absence of fences and folk — but saddling up is the best way to get around the open ranges of Patagonia. Estancias are found across the region, fromAndes to the coast. Check out the all-day ride from Estancia Monte Dinero, taking in a lonely cape, an iconic lighthouse on the Strait of Magellan and a penguin colony. nervouswaters.com Riding on the Strait

Road trips by 4WD Three great roads run northwest. On the Argentina coast, Ruta 3 goes all the way from Buenos Aires to Ushuaia. The stretch from Puerto Madryn to Río Gallegos takes in several historic sites, concluding at the Strait of Magellan. Ruta 40 skirts the Andes, passing several huge lakes in the area south of El Chaltén. Chile’s Carretera Austral (Southern highway) is a memorable long trip past the mighty General Carrera Lake, as well as glaciers and volcanoes, taking in unexplored national parks along the way and the Río Baker, one of Patagonia’s most iconic fly-fishing rivers. Rental cars are available at all the region’s main airports; insist on a pickup or jeep-style 4WD. If you do one thing… Do the 4WD tour above El Calafate, Argentina. The lakeside landscapes are serene and beautiful but for a bit more action, take a Land Rover ride up on to Los Balcones (The Balconies, wind-sculpted rock formations from the Cretaceous period) where you stop for lunch and views. miloutdoor.com

EATING AND DRINKING It’s not so much where as what in Patagonia; in all the best hotels and estancias you’ll have options. Carnivores shouldn’t miss the famed barbecued lamb, which is raised organically on the steppe and grasslands. On the fishy side of things, spider crab is Tierra del Fuego’s signature dish, and Southwest Atlantic hake and Patagonian toothfish are excellent in both ceviche and hot dishes. Look out for jams made with the local calafate berry. Both Chile and Argentina are pushing south with winemaking —moving down the map to grow grapes in cooler, more southerly climes. Try Humberto Canale (the Gran Reserva Malbec 2013 is a drink of beauty) and Bodega Noemía vintages. You can book a wine-themed tour via specialist firm Swoop. swoop-patagonia.com