Elite Traveler Fall 2019

EXPLORE SEVILLE GUIDE TO SEVILLE Rich in culture, sizzling with energy, sleek yet startlingly sophisticated — sultry flamenco star Seville has reinvented herself as a coveted destination in the heart of Spain’s sun-baked Andalusia region, jazzing up her old-world charm and traditional glamour with a cool, up-market vibe. Get caught up in a fantasy world of cobbled courtyards, tinkling fountains and gypsy guitarists. Let the Moorish town squares dotted with orange trees indulge your senses, while the Gothic cathedral and horse-drawn carriages add a touch of historical magic. When night falls, the tangle of alleys and flamenco bars spilling out onto the pavement come alive, drawing you into bustling neighborhoods celebrating music, passion and foot-stomping dance. Allow yourself to be seduced. Once a traditional city in many respects, Seville still evinces a subtle underlying class system that shines through with plenty of peacock oomph ! Notice the locals’ stylish dress, the way they behave, the food and drink rituals they uphold; all so distinctively typical of the proud Sevillanos that the city can almost be forgiven for its eccentric impression of being culturally independent from the rest of Spain. With its edgy urban fashion, designer shops moonlighting as art galleries, flamenco flamboyance and lost boho bars, the Andalusian capital promises something for everyone.

IF YOU DO ONE THING... When you feel like dipping your toes into a completely different pond, A Cat on a Bicycle is that fresh breath inflating the tires of a new art vehicle pedaling through Seville. This bizarrely named concept store started life as an ordinary, independent bookshop until things got famously out of hand. Now it’s a leading light on the arty boho scene, hosting live music concerts, lectures, regular poetry readings, stand-up comedy and whatever theater they can cram into this modestly small yet enormously creative space. Plus, it also sells books. And serves coffee! 22 Calle Pérez Galdós, Seville, +34 955 295 651

by Peter Clover

TAPAS TRAIL Trailblazing tapas are almost a religious experience in Andalusia, and the Sevillanos love nothing more than a gourmet grazing pilgrimage through the city’s cobbled maze, home to some of Spain’s most creative and innovative tapas imaginable. Indulge yourself in the cultural style of casual snacking from bar to bar: Order chilled sherry or ice-cold Cruzcampo beer with tapitas of crisp, fried fish and gambas (shrimp). Try traditional chickpeas and

Abantal — the only Michelin-starred restaurant in Seville. It reigns supreme with contemporary, cutting-edge Andalusian gastronomy. Expect smooth-as-silk service and designer decor. If you like your oysters served on roasted melon beneath a cloud of lemon air, this is definitely the place for you. There are only seven select tables, so book well ahead. laazoteasevilla.com; restaurantezelai.com; elrinconcillo.es; abantalrestaurante.es

spinach, or pillow-light croquetas with lemon aioli, cod with tomato and Iberian pork cheeks. Why settle for just one plate? La Azotea is an excellent new tapas venue. Its vibe is busy, buzzy and bijou — which translates as small, so get there early to stake your claim on a barstool. Zelai serves super-sleek, contemporary Basque tapas in a striking, über-chic setting. The restaurant area is in back, but it’s much more fun to hang out at the bustling bar.

Wherever your tapas route starts or ends, make absolutely certain it includes El Rinconcillo, the oldest recorded taberna in Seville — a landmark rendezvous virtually unchanged since 1670. Order traditional tapas from nonchalant waiters at a dark-wood counter where your bill is chalked on the tiled walls. Stand shoulder-to- shoulder, perch on a barrel or hunt down a quiet table on the upper floor. When you are totally tapa’d out, aim for

Photo Francisco Guerrero Tanco, Shutterstock.com