Edible Vancouver Island September/October 2023

how this process is very labour intensive and time consuming. We could also see many stacks of these empty bags laying on a platform closer to shore. As we pushed away from the dock, Captain Zach explained the biggest cost to farming oysters is labour, as access to workers is not easy. The farm on Read Island is in transition to their new method of farming. They received funding from Innovative Shellfish Handling Program to bring to life their new rotary system design. He pulled us over to see this new system where the oysters live in round tubes. The turn of a wheel instead of hours of effort is just as effective to encourage the deep oyster cup. It was fascinating to see the traditional methods beside all the new innovation. From here we traveled over to Cortes Island, but not before we slowed down to watch a pod of about 12 dolphins. The kids were so excited to check off more boxes in their scavenger hunt. On Cortes, we found beaches covered in oysters. We happened to arrive on the right weekend; it was Seafest on Cortes and it was an oyster feast. We enjoyed so many oysters, fresh raw, cooked and grilled in a variety of ways. We loved tasting the local fare, made by locals right on the beach. It was the perfect meal to pair with all we had just learned.

Before heading back home, we decided to take short detour to Mitlenatch Island. It’s an animal reserve famous for waterfowl and is home to many species of sealions. As we trawled along looking and listening to all the sea lions sunning themselves on the rocks, barking and flip flopping away, Captain Zach told us of the island’s ecosystem. Even though the vegetation looked slim, and the trees appeared to be little shrubs in contrast to the forests that surrounded us, life teemed from this little island. More items to check off the scavenger hunt! As we headed back to the dock, my stomach was full of a delightful oyster meal, and my was mind brimming with all that I’d learned about the local aquaculture. How I hope we can start to see more oysters showing up on menus, and even more innovation happening in the industry. I am so grateful to Captain Zach for sharing his love of this region, these islands, his knowledge and passion for oysters and all they can do for our coast. Emily Lycopolus is an insatiably curious cookbook author who loves to discover the people behind the ingredients and food we enjoy. @oliveoilcritic | oliveoilcritic.com

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