Edible Vancouver Island September/October 2023

CURRENT CRAVING

spiced plum cake

complementing winter squash, roasted tubers and root veg, creamy pastas, quiche and a plethora of baked goods. And while not as common, you can’t mention nutmeg without the lesser-known mace– the reddish-brown webbing found on all nutmeg seeds. While they grow together, nutmeg and mace are not typically used together unless you prefer the traditional German lebkuchen spice as your seasonal blend of choice (guilty). Easily overwhelming are cloves, the flower bud of the Indonesian Syzygium aromaticum plant. You’d know it if you’ve ever accidentally bitten into one, its pungent earthy flavour too powerful to use in more than scant quantities. Roast pork, beef and venison or pumpkin pie, braised red cabbage and spice cakes being some of its more common uses this time of year. Hot, zesty and spicy ginger, another noteworthy addition to the season, comes from the rhizome of the ginger plant grown extensively in China and India. Its uses are so varied and extensive since time immemorial as to require a separate feature; however, powdered ginger is most commonly used in spice blends–pumpkin pie, apple pie and chai spice to name a few. On its own, ginger elevates soups with pureed apples, squash and carrot. Sometimes called myrtle or Jamaican pepper, allspice is not a blend as the name would suggest. Reminiscent of cinnamon, clove and nutmeg, allspice is the dried unripe berry of the Pimenta Dioica tree and a traditional component in Caribbean food and drink. In North America, it appears more commonly in desserts but is also found in brown sugar glaze. Lastly, while not as common this season, Chinese star anise and green cardamom deserve mention. Used whole, star anise creates a striking garnish in cocktails contributing notes of peppery-black licorice superb for savoury meat-based stews and roasts. And the queen of spices from India, green cardamom, with its resinous subtly sweet flavour, is a key component of chai spice and a natural complement for plums and other stone fruits. My life could be measured in dashes of cinnamon and sprinkles of nutmeg and there is no comparison to their unabashed usage come autumn. Tart plums and plenty of spice baked into a tender cake served alongside hot coffee or tea is, by my definition, sublime autumnal comfort. Heidi Richter is a Nanaimo-based recipe developer and food photographer whose spice collection spans two drawers–many of them are labelled, many of them are not. thesimplegreen.com @the_simple_green

Warming spices are paired with tart plums in this simple spiced plum cake. Choose plums that are semi-ripe, but not too soft. Plums are available in early autumn; however, feel free to use apples when plums are no longer available in your area. For this recipe, use the freshest spices possible for the best flavour– dust off your mortar and pestle or spice grinder if need be. Prep 25 min Bake 45–50 min Serves 6-8 INGREDIENTS 5-6 semi-ripe medium-sized plums, washed, stemmed and pitted 1½ cups all-purpose flour 1½ tsp baking powder ½ tsp baking soda ½ tsp salt 2 tsp ground cinnamon ½ tsp fine ground cardamom ½ tsp fresh grated nutmeg

½ tsp ground allspice ½ tsp ground ginger ½ cup unsalted butter, softened 2/3 cup granulated sugar 2 large eggs ¾ cup plain full-fat yogurt 2 tsp vanilla extract 2 tsp granulated sugar for topping

METHOD Centre the oven rack and preheat the oven to 350°F. Line the bottom of an 8-inch springform pan with baking paper and lightly grease the sides. Set aside. Slice the plums into ¼-inch slices. Set aside. In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt and spices. In a large bowl, beat together the butter and sugar for roughly 1 minute. Add the eggs one at a time and beat well between each addition. Mix in the yogurt and vanilla until combined. Add the flour mixture to the butter mixture and mix until combined (the batter will be fairly thick). Pour the batter into the prepared springform pan and using a spatula, spread the batter evenly and smooth the top. Arrange the plum slices on top of the batter in concentric circles. Sprinkle the top with the remaining granulated sugar. Bake in the preheated oven for 45-50 minutes or until the cake is golden brown and a toothpick inserted into the centre comes out clean. Cool in the pan for 20 minutes before carefully running a knife around the circumference and removing the cake from the pan. Allow the cake to cool completely on a wire rack before serving with coffee, tea or whipped cream.around the edge then carefully remove the cake from the pan. Allow the cake to cool completely on a wire rack. Portion and serve with whipped cream and fresh berries.

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