Edible Vancouver Island September/October 2023

ISSUE 23 • SEP/OCT 2023

Celebrating Local Food Stories of Vancouver Island & The Gulf Islands

I have a vivid memory of my mom taking my brothers and I on a “leaf hunt” as a child. She brought us to a nearby forest of deciduous trees and told us to find leaves that we found beautiful or interesting. I took this job very seriously, and I picked up several leaves, turning them over, examining their size, colour, shape and considering their ability to survive the trip home. When we did get home, mom taught us how to press leaves onto paper, and we made a scrapbook of our favourite fall leaves. As an adult, I still find myself hunting for leaves when I am out for a fall hike or walk–and sometimes I take the perfect maple leaf home and use it as a decoration for the table or in an autumnal bouquet.

PUBLISHER + EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Karen Elgersma

ART DIRECTOR Leanne Von Hollen EDITOR

Danielle Steiner COPY EDITOR Trish Weatherall OPERATIONS MANAGER Corry Matechuk SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER Jenny Leung PHOTOGRAPHERS

Heidi Richter Sabrina Currie Dominic Hall Emily Lycopolus Noelle Quin D.L. Acken AD DESIGN Leanne Von Hollen

Since moving to the Island 27 years ago, my family and I have created many amazing fall memories. When our kids were young, Del and I loved taking them to the local pumpkin patch and letting them pick their favourites–followed by a messy session of carving those big orange Jack-‘o-lanterns, and then proudly putting our “pumpkin art” out on display. Our article on pumpkin art by Sabrina Currie on page 27 shares some creative ideas on how to turn this seasonal squash into something festive and fun. If the article inspires you to host a pumpkin decorating party, offering your guests a whisky is a perfect choice, as the Island has a growing Scotch and whisky community. Heather Leary’s article (page 38) shares stories about the craft distilleries creating some interesting whiskies, as well as some fun establishments that love to celebrate this spirit. September always feels like a new beginning, as we head back to school, work, and hunker down for shorter, cooler days. And October brings a sense of gratefulness, as we pause to be grateful for the abundance of the local harvest. Whether you lean into using fall-inspired spices in your cooking and baking (page 22) or discover a new experience you want to have on this amazing Island we live on (page 32), we hope you can celebrate this season with hope, a few new dreams and some really tasty comfort meals.

ADVERTISING Dawn Postnikoff Peggie Terry ediblevancouverisland.com/advertise CONTACT US 140-4392 West Saanich Road Victoria, BC, V8Z 3E9 editor@ediblevancouverisland.com TO SUBSCRIBE Visit us online at ediblevancouverisland.com Edible Vancouver Island is published six times a year. Subscription rate is $42 CAD annually. LETTERS We welcome your feedback. To write to the editor, use the address above or, for the quickest response, email: editor@ediblevancouverisland.com

Karen Elgersma

"Fall has always been my favourite season. The time when everything bursts with its last beauty, as if nature had been saving up all year for the grand finale.” –Lauren DeStefano

ISSUE 23 • SEP/OCT 2023

We Deliver! Subscribe at ediblevancouverisland.com to have copies delivered right to your door. Check out our website and follow us on social media @EdibleVanIsle for up-to-date events, recipes and news from the food and drink community of Vancouver Island, the Gulf Islands and the surrounding areas.

ISSUE 23 • SEP/OCT 2023 WHISKY • OYSTER TOUR • PUMPKIN PAINTING

Celebrating Local Food Stories of Vancouver Island & The Gulf Islands

On the cover: Painting Pumpkins by Sabrina Currie

September 22 – ctober 22, 2023

• Sip & savour tasty adventures. • Plan a romantic getaway. • Family-friendly activities. • Calendar of events. • Get your BFF passport. “One of the best days out you can have from ancouver,” Lonely Planet offerings, events and activities – to enjoy with family and friends on beautiful Bowen Island. Join us! Enjoy the island’s culinary offerings anytime of the year. Featuring two craft cideries, boutique distillery, French pastries, organic chocolates, unique restaurants & cafés, local growers, bakers & makers. Lovingly handmade & crafted. Bon appétit! Bowen Food Fest is a celebration of seasonal delights – local foods, special

Bowen Food Fest • Learn More

Plan your visit w: tourismbowenisland.com

SEP/OCT 2023 CONTENTS No. 23

1 welcome letter

27 EDIBLE Design

Painting Pumpkins by Sabrina Currie 32 Island Experience A West Coast Oyster Experience by Emily Lycopolus 38 LOCAL LIBATIONS Whisky Culture on Vancouver Island by Heather Leary 42 Feature article Frugal Foodies by Emily Lycopolus RECIPES IN THIS ISSUE 20 Vanilla Swiss Meringue Buttercream

5 FIELD NOTES

Edible news + notes worth sharing

6 ISLAND PANTRY

8 IN SEASON

Honey Mussel Escabeche

10 Edible profile Catering Rooted in Community,

Heritage and Coast by Camilla Sampson

18 Celebrations

Baking with the Seasons by Jessica McKeil

23 Spiced Plum Cake

22 current craving Autumn Spice and

40 Reap the Harvest Cocktail

Everything Nice by Heidi Richter

46 Veggie Pho

ON THIS PAGE: Cake by Love ’s Galettes

ediblevancouverisland.com 3

THE HANDS THAT FEED US

Join us in conversation with the people who are cultivating food, preserving traditions, making nourishing meals, and getting food to our tables every single day.

Photo © Douglas Merriam, Santa Fe Farmers Market Cookbook farmfreshjourney.com

GET TICKETS

Santa Fe, New Mexico NOVEMBER 4, 2023 EDIBLEINSTITUTE.COM

edible news + notes worth sharing field notes

New Faces and Spaces » Jason and Rochelle Roy-Allen recently bought Fernwood Cafe on Salt Spring Island and opened the Hen and Hound Brassiere . They offer farm-to-table dining at their oceanfront French-inspired restaurant and also have a robust farm stand and luxury boutique accommodations.

Cool Things to Know » On Sunday, September 24th, from 1pm-4pm, Merridale Cidery & Distillery will host the 5th annual Cider Harvest Festival at its farm and orchard in Cobble Hill on Vancouver Island. Bringing together over fifteen of B.C’.s top land-based cideries, the festival is a celebration of true craft cider, inviting attendees to experience extraordinary products and meet the makers in this annual tasting adventure. » Moon Under Water Brewpub and Distillery in Victoria offers something you won’t find at most breweries: beer for your dog. Bring your four-legged friend to their dog-friendly patio and order up a Chicken and Peanut Pilsner alongside a healthy meal from their dog menu. » Have you heard of Upcycled Ice Cream? A new partnership between 49 Below and The Root Cellar grocery stores has resulted in a new line of icy treats. The ice cream company takes ripe, but not saleable fruit from the grocery store to create new flavours of ice cream. The type and amount of fruit always varies, so it’s a fun challenge for the ice cream team to constantly invent new combinations.

» A couple from Frankfurt are the new owners of Avenue Bistro in

Comox. Matthias and Claudia Lingkost kept on all the original staff in the sale as well as the menu, with plans to add a few German dishes over time. » Saltspring Kitchen

Company has opened a new tasting room and retail space at The Jam Factory, a stunning venue showcasing a delicious array of local food products. Now open Wednesday to Sunday, the store has an impressive selection of Saltspring Kitchen Co.’s

premium jams, preserves, and hot sauces where guests can taste everything and learn about pairings and recipes.

» If you’re on the hunt for a good whisky tour, consider The Northwest Whiskey Trail , which

» Guido’s, a beloved Italian restaurant in Esquimalt, closed its doors permanently this summer, but in its place is new life: Benjamin’s serves an all-day breakfast from 7am-4pm as well as a menu full of Filipino recipe dishes and more. » RAD Brewing Company is a new brewery by Church St. Taphouse that has taken over the location previously occupied by New Tradition Brewing Company in Comox. They offer RAD beers on tap, as well as cider and wine and a variety of flavourful tacos to accompany your bevy. » Bray’s West Coast Tapas + Wine Bar is a new restaurant in Victoria. The sharing-style plates are filled with local and seasonal ingredients that encourage guests to order a variety of dishes to share, a fun option for families, friends or couples.

features seven whisky distilleries from B.C. to Oregon, including three from Vancouver Island: Shelter Point Distillery, Macaloney’s Island Distillery and Goldstream Distillery. (To read more about whisky on Vancouver Island, check out our article on page 38.)

We update our Edible News + Notes online monthly. Check ediblevancouverisland.com and follow @EdibleVanIsle on social media

ediblevancouverisland.com 5

current faves + new finds island pantry

FOREST FOR DINNER Experience fall's finest with

foraged delights from Vancouver Island. Forest for Dinner brings you small-batch, wild foraged foods, including succulent wild berries, tantalizing jams and jellies, and exquisite marinated fungi. Indulge in the untamed flavors of the wilderness, handcrafted into unique preserves that promise an exceptional dining experrience. Visit forestfordinner.ca or find us at exclusive Vancouver Island retailers to savour nature's best. Vancouver Island-based family business making and selling traditional Mexican sauces in small batches, using original recipes and fresh ingredients. Their sauces are versatile, gluten-free, vegan, and with no sugar added. Their savoury selection is sassy Tomato, Savoury Jalapeño and Spicy Lovers. islandfreshauthenticmexican.com ISLANDERS FRESH AUTHENTIC MEXICAN SAUCE

Shoprite At Home Furniture, Appliances & Home Decor Book Shelf New Books, Unique Children’s Toys & Costumes The Flower Bar Fresh Flowers & Indoor Plants 1700 Broughton Blvd. Port McNeill, BC 250-956-8217

SPONSORED CONTENT

6 SEP/OCT 2023 EDIBLE VANCOUVER ISLAND

FARMHOUSE POTTERY; THOUGHTFULLY MADE AND EFFORTLESSLY BEAUTIFUL, HEIRLOOMS TO BE CHERISHED FOR GENERATIONS.

Featuring more than 70 signature recipes from the Okanagan Valley’s best chefs, restaurants, cafés, bakeries and wineries:

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15 Park Bistro at Watermark Beach Resort 19 Bistro at Fitzpatrick Family Vineyards The Bistro at Hillside Winery Block One Restaurant at 50th Parallel BNA Brewing Co. & Eatery Bouchons Bistro Cannery Brewing Chaos Bistro at Ex Nihilo Vineyards Coccaro Group Deep Roots Winery El Taquero Frankie We Salute You! Home Block at CedarCreek Estate Winery Jojo’s Café Karat

Neverland Tea Cottage The Noble Pig Brewhouse Old Vines Restaurant at

Quails’ Gate Poplar Grove The Restaurant at Phantom Creek Row Fourteen at Klippers Organics SilverStar Resort

Small Axe Roadhouse Sparkling Hill Resort Sprout Bread

Taste of the Okanagan Terrace Restaurant at Mission Hill Family Estate Winery The Terrace Restaurant at Monte Creek Winery Terrafina Restaurant at Hester Creek Timber Shuswap Vineyard Kitchen and Patio at Nighthawk Vineyards Wayne & Freda

Klippers Organics Legend Distilling The Modest Butcher Naramata Inn

Experience Local. Shop local. Taste local. Support local.

AVAILABLE September 2023 Learn more at okanaganeats.ca

ediblevancouverisland.com 7

ESCABECHE honey mussel

In September, we are in the middle of harvest here on the Island. I try to work primarily with local products, which means preserving as much as possible before our farm offerings dwindle down to much smaller and less frequent deliveries. We love to preserve the colour and bright flavours of the end of summer so we can continue to offer the flavours that mingle so well with beer and drink all winter long. We pickle a lot of sweet peppers and many varietals of chilis to help with that, and there are none better in the year than those that come in at the end of summer from our farms. I use the pickling liquid all winter to prop up salad dressings and seasonings for our dishes. I use the chilis for adding heat to our sauces, and the chilis and peppers themselves for their crimson hues and intense flavours that will help brighten up any dish in the middle of winter. The many varietals of chilis work well for fermented hot sauces and pickles that can bring intense heat or a tickle to any dish. Pickled jalapenos are a versatile ingredient to use in everything from sauces, sandwiches and pizzas, and I love pickled sweet peppers for seasoning vegetables and adding to dishes for crunch, acidity and sweetness.

8 SEP/OCT 2023 EDIBLE VANCOUVER ISLAND

IN SEASON RECIPE

RECIPE CHEF CHRIS KLASSEN OF THE DRAKE EATERY PHOTO DOMINIC HALL

YIELDS 2.5L SERVES 4-6

mussels

TO PREPARE MUSSELS 2 lbs Honey Mussels 1 glass dry white wine

METHOD FOR

Rinse and clean your mussels, removing any beards or debris. Place a wide pan on high heat. Once it is quite hot, place your clean mussels in the pan and place your white wine in with them. Immediately cover with a tight-fitting lid. Cook for about 3-5 minutes, until most of your mussels have opened fully. Remove pan from heat, take off the lid and let cool for a couple minutes.

Strain off the liquid and reserve for another use such as risotto or soup.

Discard any mussels tht are unopened.

escabeche

ESCABECHE INGREDIENTS 2½ cups white wine vinegar 1¾ cups water ½ cup white sugar 1 Tbsp kosher salt 2¼ cups olive oil 1 head garlic 2 Tbsp smoked/Spanish paprika 6 sprigs fresh thyme

METHOD FOR Peel your garlic down into separate cloves. Peel your lemon using a vegetable peeler or knife so that you remove a small

amount of pith. Place the peels to the side. Juice your lemon and strain out the seeds.

Combine vinegar, water, sugar, salt, olive oil, garlic cloves, paprika, thyme, lemon juice, lemon rinds and bay leaves into a pot large enough to leave room to boil. Bring mixture to a boil and then let it steep. While it is steeping, prep your mushrooms, chilis, shallots and peppers as indicated in ingredients list. Place mushrooms, chilis, shallots and peppers in a large, heat-proof bowl. Bring brine to a boil again and pour over your vegetables. Place a small plate or weight over top of vegetables to keep them submerged. Let them stand for 10 minutes. Add your mussels into the bowl. Once the mixture reaches room temperature, place in a new container and move to the fridge to fully cool. Once chilled, add any more smoke/preserved seafood you choose (smoke oysters, tuna), canned mackerel, anchovies or squid. TO SERVE Serve the pickled vegetables and seafood in a bowl or plate with a little bit of the brine and fresh olive oil. Serve with salty potato chips or crusty bread. Add other pickles from your fridge if you want to switch it up. (We have served ours with pickled rhubarb and sea asparagus for a local spring twist.) Bonus: if you have any favourite chili oil or chili crisp, sprinkle over top to kick it up.

rind of 1 lemon juice of 1 lemon 4 bay leaves

INGREDIENTS 1 bag salted potato chips

½ loaf crusty sourdough bread 1 small jar chili oil/chili crisp

ediblevancouverisland.com 9

Catering rooted in community, heritage and coast

“Everyone has to eat–it’s really beautiful to have the power to nourish people.” –Kayla Frank

Marcie Callewaert John

10 SEP/OCT 2023 EDIBLE VANCOUVER ISLAND

EDIBLE PROFILE

WORDS CAMILLA SAMPSON

K ayla Frank, the founder of Naana Ookmin Catering Co, started cooking the likes of Chicken Cordon Bleu for her brother at the ripe young age of 13. With her single mother juggling school and a couple of jobs, Kayla took the helm in the kitchen where, after watching the likes of Food Network, she felt called to learn to improve the meals she and her brother ate. But it was at Tofino’s Best Western Hotel at the age of 15 that her life truly began its culinary trajectory. She credits Chef Margot Bouchon as the catalyst for her decision. “She instilled in me that I had the potential to learn and thrive in the industry,” Kayla shares. “I also liked the fast-paced environment and the teamwork aspects.” From there she worked in different kitchens in Tofino, including at SoBo under Chef Lisa Ahier, until she had enough hours for her Red Seal Chef’s exam. Food, for Kayla, is a way to bring everyone together. “Everyone has to eat–it’s really beautiful to have the power to nourish people,” she says. “It’s a really wholesome experience to provide that service.” Inspired by Ancestry A member of the Tla-O-Qui-Aht First Nations, Kayla started Naana Ookmin last year. The name means “Mother of the Feast Bowl,” and is a geographical location where Kayla’s ancestors lived, and she herself spends a lot of time during the summers. “I like the way it sounds, and the location means a lot to me–it’s surrounded by mountains, with crabapple, berries, medicine, seafood, otters, bears, deer…it was our home base three to four generations ago.” On the inspiration for starting Naana Ookmin, Kayla shares: “I wanted to work independently, and I like being my own boss. But I also wanted to see more Aboriginal representation in the culinary industry here–I want to be another person in the community who can provide catering services in the Tla-O-Qui Aht Territory.” Somewhat unsurprisingly then, her food philosophy is rooted in heritage and place. Kayla cites her grandmother as a really big inspiration for her style of cooking: “Her happy place was in the kitchen. She was a baker and made bread almost every day that I knew her. I like to include some of her recipes, usually

something like Bannock, Fry Bread, some sort of fish chowder or clams.” Then there’s her father, owner of Karemarena Fishing Co, who is a regular collaborator for Kayla’s ingredients–from prawns to salmon and halibut. “I mainly cook pescetarian– that’s my style, part of my heritage, all my ancestors survived off the ocean’s bounty. It’s the staple in Tofino, and what’s meant to be created here,” she shares. Overall, she tries to create by the 100-mile rule (sourcing ingredients within 100 miles), cooking based on the season, and what’s locally available, with sustainability playing a key role. Beyond her grandmother’s influences, Kayla’s menus are guided by the idea of bringing the comfort of homestyle meals to the people she’s cooking for. “A lot of the people are guests in Tofino–I want them to have the option to have something you would eat at home, but with an additional professional layer on top of that.” Her main clientele is visitors for retreats and workshops, alongside catering at the Naa'Waya'Sum Gardens facilities and the recently reimagined Cedar Coast Arts and Ecology Centre on Vargas Island. Cedar Coast Cedar Coast opened this year with a new visual identity and a reframing from a scientific field station to an emphasis on art. An interdisciplinary learning environment, it will play host to a diverse group of educators while also being available to rent, as a means to further support their school programs and summer camps. Despite its remoteness, food plays a vital role in the centre’s vision.

ediblevancouverisland.com 11

Marcie Callewaert John

“The project as a whole is really about sustainability and regenerative systems,” shares founder Simon Nessman. “And it’s a chance for people to develop a more intimate connection with food and where it’s coming from. Our food gardens are a really core part of the overall project,” he explains. Run by Bridget Salas, they are currently “small, but productive, with lots of greens, carrots, a small orchard, a big herb garden.” Nessman notes, “We’re not self sufficient at this point, but the vision for the future is getting us as close to that as possible and integrating it into the programs.” For Kayla, it suits her food philosophy perfectly. When speaking about the garden, she says, “It won’t be ready until fall or next year, but my goal for the summer months is to only bring over what I need for baking and use the vegetables and edible flowers Bridget grows on-site. Get fish from my dad or from Lenny. I would take a lot of pride in cooking something that has little to zero footprint.” Having started at the centre last year with a three-day stint as a relief chef, Kayla quickly found she clicked with the team and the location. “I loved the adventure of working off-grid. It’s a very different experience–you have to haul everything over or call it in by boat,” she explains. “It’s so nice to work in solitude over there–stay in a cabin; it’s so quiet. It doesn’t feel like work at all sometimes,” she says with a smile. Camilla Sampson is a storyteller based in Campbell River who is passionate about experiencing new places through hyperlocal ingredients and engaging with the community that gathers around them. camillasampson.com

Crab Cakes

Yield: 4 appetizer size crab cakes

INGREDIENTS

225g crab meat, excess moisture gently squeezed out and double check for shells 1 egg 1 tsp grainy mustard

1 Tbsp mayonnaise 3 Tbsp finely chopped herbs Zest of 1 lemon ½ tsp kosher salt ½ cup panko 2 Tbsp butter or oil

METHOD Preheat oven to 400F. Mix all ingredients except panko and butter together in a small bowl. Form the mixture into 4 equal puck shaped patties. Coat both sides generously in panko. Melt butter (or heat oil) in a medium pan over medium high heat. Gently place crab cakes in the pan and cook until golden brown on one side, approximately 2 minutes. Flip the crab cakes over and put the pan in the oven. Bake for 10 minutes or until just firm to the touch. Think of this as a base recipe. It can take on any flavour profile you like depending on what you are serving. I used dill and green onion for my herbs but you could use, chives, tarragon, Thai basil, parsley… the possibilities are endless. You could add corn, peppers and smoked paprika. Mint, cilantro and a touch of sweet chili sauce. The world is your oyster… or maybe it’s your crab cake?

WILD • SUSTAINABLE • WEST COAST

finestatsea.com VICTORIA Seafood Market 250.383.7760 VANCOUVER Seafood Market Grocer + Deli 604.266.1904 • V I S I T U S •

12 SEP/OCT 2023 EDIBLE VANCOUVER ISLAND

No. 76 / SPRING 2023

edible BOZEMAN  Telling the Stories of Local Food & Drink

Issue No. 10 • Fall 2021

Celebrating the Abundance of Local Foods, Season by Season edible

edible BOZEMAN Issue No. 10 Fall 2021

Cape Cod ®

SPRING 2023

The Kitchen Issue

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TASTY B&B’S HAND-PRESSED TORTILLAS LONG ISLAND LIVESTOCK FARM-GENERATED POWER WINES FROM ONE WOMAN, PALMER AND MERLIANCE MEAL-WORTHY GOLF COURSES

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Asparagus • Marilyn Schlossbach • Montclair Grape Debate • CSAs • Restaurant Guide Spring Destinations edible J ersey Member of Edible Communities Number 79 Celebrating Local Foods of the Garden State, Season by Season Spring 2023

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WINTER 2022

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AT WORK AND PLAY

DINNER PARTIES ARE BACK • FULGRANCES LAUNDROMAT • KITSCHEN CONFIDENTIAL • MISS PEPPERMINT

edible Maritimes

Issue 52 Spring 2022

Celebrating the harvest of Marin, Napa and Sonoma counties, season by season

The future of food

the land ~ the sea ~ the people ~ the food NEW BRUNSWICK - PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND - NOVA SCOTIA Proud Member of Edible Communities

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Scan the QR code for an inside look at coffee roasters in Parksville Qualicum Beach

One Drink to Rule Them All

While coffee roasters in Parksville Qualicum Beach approach coffee in various ways, they all share a singular passion for the caffeinated beverage.

Jokes abound about not talking to someone before they’ve had their morning coffee–but for coffee roasters in Parksville Qualicum Beach, nothing about making the perfect cup of joe is a joke. They take their responsibility to provide quality and flavourful options to their patrons seriously, ensuring everyone’s days start (or continue, or end) on the right foot. And while we might all unite under a single love of coffee, the fact is that there are many ways to prepare the perfect cup. At French Press Coffee Roasters, owner Jeremy Perkins focusses on providing his customers with exceptional medium roast coffees. “The idea is that whilst roasting lighter, we highlight some of the acidity that is there and some of the fruit forward flavours,” Perkins explains. “But taking the coffee far enough to make sure that some of the sweetness stays in there and that we can develop that flavour.” If the beans aren’t roasted long enough, you’ll miss out on some of the sweeter flavours, so it’s a delicate dance to create the perfect medium roast. While certain flavours can be drawn out through the roasting process, a perfect cup of coffee starts with where the beans are sourced from. “We offer coffees from a broad spectrum of producing nations,” Perkins says. Amongst other places, they carry beans representing the terroir of Columbia, Ethiopia, Guatemala and Indonesia. Most of what they sell are

single-origin coffees, created from beans all sourced from one region. But they do have a few blends, including their home blend, classic blend and a seasonal holiday blend. And it’s not just a good cup of coffee you’ll find at French Press. Perkins has also prioritized offering truly good food to accompany the coffee. “ I got tired of going to specialty coffee shops where you would be offered some moribund baked goods or sort of poorly thought-out sandwich. I wanted the food to be good, I wanted the baked goods to be good, as well as the coffee,” he says, “I wanted somebody to have a really good experience while they were there…which is essentially why we've always been really keen on offering decent, well thought-out food, a small menu of nicely thought out items.’ Coyote Coffee Roasters sets themselves apart by offering a huge variety of single origin coffees, with a goal of “allowing people to try different beans and different things that they like, and not have to settle for just one kind,” explains Alison Carradine. “It just makes it more exciting every morning and/or afternoon!” With about 20 variations on the shelves (and more in the back), they’re always finding and experimenting with new beans and flavours. Their wide variety stems from their own curiosity and tastes. “Between me and the owner, we both have separate coffee

14 SEP/OCT 2023 EDIBLE VANCOUVER ISLAND

a difference. “It's interesting, because it's not always the same thing. Like a sunny day to a wet day, the moisture in the air is different. So you have to change up roasting a little bit, too.” Guy has been roasting coffee at Karma for 19 years, which he does not only because he loves coffee, but because he loves the business. “I love my job,” he says simply. “We’re all friends, we take care of each other.” And he takes pride in producing their high-quality coffee to both their new and long-time customers. And as for customers, the unique approach each roaster takes to preparing their coffee beans means customers have a wide range of choice to find their favourite bean or enjoy experimenting. “We all have different things that we give to the public,” Carradine says. “There’s so much variety when it comes to roasting not only with your bean of choice, but how you roast, the temperature you roast, how long and what your preferences are.” The various approaches each business takes to their coffee perfectly suits the needs of the community, allowing everyone to find their perfect cup.

tastes,” Carradine says. “So it's our tastes and our influence that brings different varieties in. So it's very fun for us, because we can pick things that we're like, ‘Oh, I definitely want to taste that.’ And it just benefits the customer that way.” And they make it easy for their customers to both try new things or stick with their favourites by offering a loyalty program. “You pay ahead for five bags at a discounted price, but you come and get them as you need them so that they're always freshly roasted,” Carradine explains. “And it's for any of our one-pound bags. So if you really like one, you can get five of the same one; you can come back and just keep refilling on your freshly roasted beans. Or you can try a new one every time. So you could try a medium this time from this region, you could try a dark roast, you could take the decaf home, you can switch it up as you need them.” There are a variety of roasts available at Karma Coffee as well, including decaf. They have beans from Mexico, Nicaragua, Honduras and elsewhere, and every roasting batch is carefully calculated. “It’s a science, really,” says Stephan Guy. “We have our blends that we've been doing forever, but sometimes you get a different batch number and then the moisture in there can be a little different. So you have to readjust from that,” he explains. And even the weather on the day of roasting makes

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ParksvilleQualicumBeach.com

ediblevancouverisland.com 15

Things to Do

Start Exploring Parksville Qualicum Beach is where memories come to life; the smells and sounds, tastes and textures that bring you back to a time when the world was a little smaller, people were a little nicer, and time wasn’t a big worry. Whether you’re planning a summer vacation, a spring getaway, or a winter escape, alone or with the important people in your life, use our blog to discover the unique mix of people, businesses, and experiences that are sure to make your next visit memorable.

Parksville Beach | Photo: @echrestella

Welcome to the small-town charm of our communities! myPQB.ca/blog

FRESH local halibut, salmon, ling cod, local crab and shellfish. More seasonal items available in store! Fresh from the boat to you! F RENCH CREEK SEAFOOD LTD. (250) 248-2888 | frenchcreek.ca Located in French Creek Harbour at 1097 Lee Rd, Parksville

Englishman River Falls | Photo: @allankahhughes

16 SEP/OCT 2023 EDIBLE VANCOUVER ISLAND

VisitParksvilleQualicumBeach.com

Relaxed Fine Dining & Special Events Boutique Hotel Accommodation

Pickles and preserves, hand-crafted in Qualicum Beach since 1992 catieshotdilledbeans.com

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Baking with the Seasons Love’s Galettes of Salt Spring Island

18 SEP/OCT 2023 EDIBLE VANCOUVER ISLAND

CELEBRATIONS

WORDS JESSICA MCKEIL PHOTOS LOVE'S GALETTES

Salt Spring Island is famous for its farm-to-table ideology, but Adina Guest of Love’s Galettes is starting a farm-to-cake revolution. This one-woman custom pastry company celebrates all that Salt Spring has to offer, with creations bursting with colour, texture and flavour. Just take a peek at Love’s Galettes Instagram, you’ll find yourself on a joyous ride through the seasons. Each cake comes engulfed in a cascade of petals and blooms, with layer upon layer of fresh and locally sourced ingredients. A MASTER PASTRY CHEF, BY CHANCE Adina stumbled into her new role as our little island’s resident master pastry chef only by chance. After moving to Salt Spring several years ago (and after a bit of encouragement from her friends at Francis Bread), Adina started serving up her seasonally inspired galettes at the Salt Spring Island farmers’ market. Her adventures in cake came much later, and only after a special request from the owners of FoxGlove Farm . A serendipitous beginning, but it’s also not that surprising, as Adina's culinary career is a rich one. Her resume contains several notable accolades, including two years on the line as chef de partie at The French Laundry and a Sommelier Certification from the Court of Master Sommeliers, among others. Her long list of experiences has fueled her ability to understand and pair flavours, and she’s now translating this into her fantastical cakes, galettes and pastries. Since her first experimental cake, Adina’s creations have acquired quite the following of local foodies. When there is a wedding, a birthday or any other excuse to celebrate, we all turn to her to make the occasion that much sweeter. Adina also openly shares her knowledge and skills. She serves up workshops and cake demos several times a year, sharing baking advice, flavour combos and all the tips and tricks she's learned working with floral decorations (find her on Instagram for upcoming workshop dates). ALWAYS LOCAL AND HYPER-SEASONAL The unique combinations of seasonal ingredients are the magic behind a Love’s Galettes cake or pastry. Thanks to Adina’s connection to Salt Spring Island’s network of growers and producers (shout out to Bullock Lake , Duck Creek , Heyday Farm and others), nearly all the fruits, flavours and foraged goodies she incorporates are locally sourced–even the citrus and passion fruit. Each cake is a sensory explosion, with equal parts floral bouquets and edible masterpieces. Think Doug fir tip, liquor, maple leaf jelly and candy cap mushroom custard hidden under a torched burnt caramel Swiss meringue buttercream. Or a brown butter, apple, whole wheat Rosso di Chioggia radicchio cake filled with matsutake custard and lemony caramel buttercream. In her workshops, Adina teaches us that infusing unexpected flavours into sweet seasonal confections isn’t just something reserved for professionals. Home bakers can do it, too. Adina suggests starting with flavour-infused buttercream, specifically Swiss meringue buttercream. Compared with its American cousin,

Swiss meringue is silkier and less sweet–the perfect blank canvas for incorporating an infinite variety of flavours. Although any recipe that requires a candy thermometer may feel immediately daunting, Adina promises it’s very forgiving. The key to buttercream is understanding the role temperature plays. Too hot or too cold, and the consistency will falter. But, as Adina says, it will always come back together if your ratios are correct. LOVE'S GALETTES' TIPS FOR SWISS MERINGUE BUTTERCREAM Melted: Your mixture is too warm. Allow it to sit at room temperature or pop it in the fridge to solidify. Then, start whisking again until it re-emulsifies. Curdled or split: Your mixture is too cold. Place the bowl over a hot water bath and whisk until it comes together. Flavourings: Add up to ½ cup of any liquid (like infused sugar syrup, honey, or juice) or up to ¾ cup of any thicker additions (like jams, compotes, mascarpone, melted chocolate). Mix in slowly after the buttercream has reached the desired silky consistency. Decorating: Before decorating your cake, chill the cake in the refrigerator for several hours (or overnight). If decorating in a warm room, you can keep popping the cake back in the fridge to chill at any point. But, your buttercream should be at room temperature while frosting a cake. Tools and equipment: Adina relies on her KitchenAid stand mixer for hands-free mixing and an offset spatula, cake decorating turntable and cardboard cake boards for decorating. Jessica McKeil is a writer and owner of Sea to Sky Content , who lives on, eats from and explores Salt Spring Island. She's a passionate, if a tad messy, home baker, and she can confirm Adina's buttercream recipe makes mastering Swiss meringue easy.

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CELEBRATIONS RECIPE

Women owned artisan bakery specializing in slow fermented, small batch sourdough bread and pastries using organic Canadian flour. Wholesale and retail.

250.898.3304 www.honeygrovebakery.ca #4, 2441 Cousins Ave, Courtenay, BC

RECIPE LOVE’S GALETTES Vanilla Swiss Meringue Buttercream YiledS 5 cups, enough to fill & frost a large 8-inch three-layer cake. INGREDIENTS 6 large egg whites (approx. 230g) 1¼ cup granulated sugar 2 cups unsalted butter, room temperature and cut into Tbsp-size pieces 2 tsp pure vanilla extract ½ tsp salt 2 Tbsp lemon juice Add the egg whites with the sugar in the bowl of your stand mixer (or a medium bowl). Then, set the bowl over a saucepan filled with a bit of simmering water over medium heat. Do not let the bottom of the bowl touch the water. Whisk the whites and sugar constantly until sugar is dissolved–about 4 minutes. The mixture should be hot to the touch with no sugar crystals remaining. You can test it by rubbing it between your fingers or with an instant read thermometer, which should read 160°F (71°C). While still warm, transfer the bowl to your stand mixer (or use a hand mixer) and beat the mixture with a whisk attachment on medium-high speed until stiff, glossy peaks form and the meringue is no longer warm to the touch, about 10-15 minutes. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, dissolve the salt into the lemon juice and add vanilla. Set aside. Switching to a paddle attachment, add the butter in two or three pieces at a time on medium-high speed. Wait for each piece of butter to fully combine before adding the next batch. Do not worry if the buttercream looks like it has curdled or separated–just keep mixing. It will always come back together. After all the butter has been added, reduce speed to medium and beat in the vanilla, salt and lemon juice mixture. The Swiss meringue buttercream should be silky smooth and can be used on any cake, cupcake or other confection. Tips: If the buttercream looks soupy once you’ve added all the butter, just keep mixing on medium-low speed until it comes together, or place in the fridge for five minutes at a time until it cools a bit. Don’t forget it in the fridge-it will firm up quickly! If the buttercream feels too stiff, place it over a hot water bath and mix it until it melts a bit. Then return it to the mixer to re-emulsify.

AN ATLAS CLASSIC

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The season’s most prominent flavours autumn spice & everything nice

Like cream with berries in summer, there is no better match than warming spices for cold weather.

WORDS, PHOTOS + RECIPE HEIDI RICHTER

Undeniably, cinnamon is the most pervasive, versatile and complex, ranging from strongly sweet and spicy cassias to the finer, less sweet and more subtle-tasting Ceylon. Indonesian cassia cinnamon is the most common in North America, yet it’s not uncommon to find the punchy, sweet and spicy Saigon or the delicate Sri Lankan Ceylon on the spice rack of aficionados. While Ceylon is often referred to as “real” cinnamon, all cinnamons are in fact genuine and originate from the same laurel species–variations in flavour and texture are solely a matter of harvest method and region. Cinnamon finds its way into a multitude of fall dishes both sweet and savoury–most notably apple, pear and pumpkin desserts, oatmeal, roasted vegetables, coffee and teas, cookies, spice cakes and stews. Another Indonesian native is nutmeg, its sweet notes

As the days turn cool and the skies cloak themselves in overcast, I instinctively turn towards warmth and comfort. Autumn has arrived on the Island, its telltale signs not measured by temperature or precipitation, but rather by thick wool socks, cozy firesides, crunchy leaves and glorious seasonal fare laden with spice. Like cream with berries in summer, there is no better match than warming spices for cold weather. From traditional apple pie to commodity pumpkin spice lattes, certain flavours are inescapable come September–cinnamon nutmeg, clove, ginger and allspice, along with the overlooked star anise and green cardamom, all fall under the umbrella of autumnal spices. Their diverse origins and traditional uses vary considerably; however, these spices have a natural affinity for each other and pair effortlessly with the season’s predominant ingredients.

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CURRENT CRAVING

spiced plum cake

complementing winter squash, roasted tubers and root veg, creamy pastas, quiche and a plethora of baked goods. And while not as common, you can’t mention nutmeg without the lesser-known mace– the reddish-brown webbing found on all nutmeg seeds. While they grow together, nutmeg and mace are not typically used together unless you prefer the traditional German lebkuchen spice as your seasonal blend of choice (guilty). Easily overwhelming are cloves, the flower bud of the Indonesian Syzygium aromaticum plant. You’d know it if you’ve ever accidentally bitten into one, its pungent earthy flavour too powerful to use in more than scant quantities. Roast pork, beef and venison or pumpkin pie, braised red cabbage and spice cakes being some of its more common uses this time of year. Hot, zesty and spicy ginger, another noteworthy addition to the season, comes from the rhizome of the ginger plant grown extensively in China and India. Its uses are so varied and extensive since time immemorial as to require a separate feature; however, powdered ginger is most commonly used in spice blends–pumpkin pie, apple pie and chai spice to name a few. On its own, ginger elevates soups with pureed apples, squash and carrot. Sometimes called myrtle or Jamaican pepper, allspice is not a blend as the name would suggest. Reminiscent of cinnamon, clove and nutmeg, allspice is the dried unripe berry of the Pimenta Dioica tree and a traditional component in Caribbean food and drink. In North America, it appears more commonly in desserts but is also found in brown sugar glaze. Lastly, while not as common this season, Chinese star anise and green cardamom deserve mention. Used whole, star anise creates a striking garnish in cocktails contributing notes of peppery-black licorice superb for savoury meat-based stews and roasts. And the queen of spices from India, green cardamom, with its resinous subtly sweet flavour, is a key component of chai spice and a natural complement for plums and other stone fruits. My life could be measured in dashes of cinnamon and sprinkles of nutmeg and there is no comparison to their unabashed usage come autumn. Tart plums and plenty of spice baked into a tender cake served alongside hot coffee or tea is, by my definition, sublime autumnal comfort. Heidi Richter is a Nanaimo-based recipe developer and food photographer whose spice collection spans two drawers–many of them are labelled, many of them are not. thesimplegreen.com @the_simple_green

Warming spices are paired with tart plums in this simple spiced plum cake. Choose plums that are semi-ripe, but not too soft. Plums are available in early autumn; however, feel free to use apples when plums are no longer available in your area. For this recipe, use the freshest spices possible for the best flavour– dust off your mortar and pestle or spice grinder if need be. Prep 25 min Bake 45–50 min Serves 6-8 INGREDIENTS 5-6 semi-ripe medium-sized plums, washed, stemmed and pitted 1½ cups all-purpose flour 1½ tsp baking powder ½ tsp baking soda ½ tsp salt 2 tsp ground cinnamon ½ tsp fine ground cardamom ½ tsp fresh grated nutmeg

½ tsp ground allspice ½ tsp ground ginger ½ cup unsalted butter, softened 2/3 cup granulated sugar 2 large eggs ¾ cup plain full-fat yogurt 2 tsp vanilla extract 2 tsp granulated sugar for topping

METHOD Centre the oven rack and preheat the oven to 350°F. Line the bottom of an 8-inch springform pan with baking paper and lightly grease the sides. Set aside. Slice the plums into ¼-inch slices. Set aside. In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt and spices. In a large bowl, beat together the butter and sugar for roughly 1 minute. Add the eggs one at a time and beat well between each addition. Mix in the yogurt and vanilla until combined. Add the flour mixture to the butter mixture and mix until combined (the batter will be fairly thick). Pour the batter into the prepared springform pan and using a spatula, spread the batter evenly and smooth the top. Arrange the plum slices on top of the batter in concentric circles. Sprinkle the top with the remaining granulated sugar. Bake in the preheated oven for 45-50 minutes or until the cake is golden brown and a toothpick inserted into the centre comes out clean. Cool in the pan for 20 minutes before carefully running a knife around the circumference and removing the cake from the pan. Allow the cake to cool completely on a wire rack before serving with coffee, tea or whipped cream.around the edge then carefully remove the cake from the pan. Allow the cake to cool completely on a wire rack. Portion and serve with whipped cream and fresh berries.

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HEN AND HOUND BRASSIERE Where Farm-to-Table Dreams Come True on Salt Spring Island

In the quaint beauty of Salt Spring Island, where rolling hills meet mesmerizing ocean, a dream-turned-reality stands tall: Hen and Hound, a farm and farm stand, a luxury bed and breakfast and now a French-inspired Brassiere. It's the brainchild of Jason and Rochelle, a couple who left behind the bustling city life of Edmonton to embrace their vision of sustainable living and culinary brilliance. Their journey began with a farm, nurtured by passion and dedication, to teach their children the essence of living harmoniously with nature. “Hen and Hound is more than just a farm–it's a culmination of our family's passion for food and sustainability,”says Rochelle. “What started as a humble farm with a roadside stand has now blossomed into a farm stand, a luxurious bed and breakfast and an exceptional Seed to Farm to Fork Brassiere.” Their journey began with a quaint farm stand, but it quickly flourished into the largest and most exquisite on the island. A testament to their dedication and love for their craft, the farm stand offers an array of farm-fresh delights that were an instant hit with locals and visitors alike. “When our family decided to embrace a vegan diet, we had a hard time finding delicious, vegan baked goods, so I decided to start baking vegan goods myself,” says Rochelle. “The lack of available options pushed me to experiment and create delectable vegan treats that soon became the talk of the island

and as the word got out, there was an overwhelming demand for our baked goods and it paved the way for the next big thing for us, buying the Brassiere.”

NURTURING PARTNERSHIPS FOR UNPARALLELED CULINARY DELIGHTS

At the heart of Hen and Hound lies a commitment to supporting the local community. Teaming up with neighbouring farms, artisans and artists, the brassiere curates an extensive menu of homemade baked goods, farm-fresh produce, and culinary delights. Each dish carries a distinct story, woven with the love of those who craft it, from the hands of farmers to the creativity of chefs. “We love partnering with the community and working with local farmers, dairy producers and artisans,” says Rochelle. “Bringing in locally curated and ethically sourced products is not only in alignment with our mission to live more sustainably, but we also love helping connect our customers to all of these amazing producers.” TOAST TO THE ISLAND SPIRIT The culinary journey at Hen and Hound is complemented by an exquisite selection of local wine, cider, craft beer, and spirits. From crisp wines that reflect the island's unique terroir to

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handcrafted ales brimming with artistry, the beverage offerings add an extra layer of delight to every dining experience.

resources,” Rochelle states. Hen and Hound stands as a beacon of sustainable farming, a haven for food lovers, and an inspiration for those seeking to experience the beauty of a seed-to-fork culinary adventure. Rochelle and Jason's journey exemplifies that with passion, dedication and love for the land, anything is possible. “Jason and I learned early on, the only way to be a profitable farm is to provide the seed-to-fork complete chain,” says Rochelle. “This is at the heart of everything we do, including the new Brassiere.” At Hen and Hound, indulgence transcends mere food; it's an appreciation of the land, an ode to creativity and a toast to togetherness. Whether you are a local or a visitor, be a part of this farm-to-table dream at Hen and Hound Brassiere where the journey is as delightful as the destination. “Come and experience the magic of our farm-to-fork Brassiere on Salt Spring Island firsthand,” urges Rochelle, “and embark on a culinary journey that celebrates the beauty of the island and the spirit of our family.”

A MELTING POT OF ARTISTRY Beyond its delectable offerings, the Hen and Hound Brassiere offers a space that bridges the gap between food and community. The Hen and Hound experience is not just about food; it's a complete immersion into the magical embrace of Salt Spring Island. Guests are invited to stay at the luxury bed and breakfast, where they wake up to sweeping views of the ocean and the farm's lush landscape. The idyllic setting, complemented by Rochelle's culinary artistry, creates memories that linger long after the journey ends. THE LEGACY OF SUSTAINABLE LIVING Jason and Rochelle's journey to Salt Spring Island was more than just a pursuit of a culinary dream–it was a commitment to teach their children about sustainable living and environmental stewardship. This message of harmony with nature resonates throughout the Hen and Hound experience, inspiring guests to cherish and protect the natural wonders around them. “Our farm's practices reflect a harmony with nature. Every piece of wood used in the Brassiere is sourced from our land and milled on-site, ensuring a true connection to the island's

SPONSORED BY thehenandhound.com

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