Edible Vancouver Island March/April 2024

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ISSUE 26 • MAR/APR 2024

Celebrating Local Food Stories of Vancouver Island & The Gulf Islands

No. 77 / SUMMER 2023

edible BOZEMAN  Telling the Stories of Local Food & Drink

Issue No. 10 • Fall 2021

Celebrating the Abundance of Local Foods, Season by Season edible

edible BOZEMAN Issue No. 10 Fall 2021

Cape Cod ®

FALL 2023

WOLDY

REYES ARRIVES

MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

Member of Edible Communities

fall 2021 1

edible east end Celebrating the Harvest of the Hamptons and North Fork No. 36 High Summer 2012

TASTY B&B’S HAND-PRESSED TORTILLAS LONG ISLAND LIVESTOCK FARM-GENERATED POWER WINES FROM ONE WOMAN, PALMER AND MERLIANCE MEAL-WORTHY GOLF COURSES

Member of Edible Communities

Asparagus • Marilyn Schlossbach • Montclair Grape Debate • CSAs • Restaurant Guide Spring Destinations edible J ersey Member of Edible Communities Number 79 Celebrating Local Foods of the Garden State, Season by Season Spring 2023

edible Maritimes

Issue 52 Spring 2022

HOLIDAY 2023

PLUS: HIP-HOP + CANNABIS DASHEEDA DAWSON THE WIDE WORLD OF WEED

Celebrating the harvest of Marin, Napa and Sonoma counties, season by season

THE

PARTY

The future of food

ISSUE ROMILLY

the land ~ the sea ~ the people ~ the food NEW BRUNSWICK - PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND - NOVA SCOTIA Proud Member of Edible Communities

NEWMAN

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We are part of something bigger!

ISSUE FORTY | May/June 2022

edible newfoundland & labrador the land ~ the sea ~ the people ~ the food

Eat . Drink . Think . Explore . | Season by Season

MILK & HONEY

NO. 1 SUMMER 2023 Wild Finds

Member of Edible Communities

EdibleNEFlorida.com

Fall/Holiday 2023 Number 36 edible PHILLY FOOD & COMMUNITY IN PHILADELPHIA AND BEYOND

is a network of magazines across the U.S. and Canada

Celebrating 10 years

PLUS • 2023 Holiday Food & Gift Guide • Holiday Feasts • Local Meat

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ISSUE 23 • SEP/OCT 2023

edible VANCOUVER & WINE COUNTRY

SUMMER 2023

NO. 93 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024

EAT. DRINK. SHOP. LOCAL.

ISSUE 23 • SEP/OCT 2023 WHISKY • OYSTER TOUR • PUMPKIN PAINTING

GET WET Where to Swim, Spa, Sauna, and Soak

FROZEN BERRIES . BETTER BUTTER . VEGAN BREAD Member of Edible Communities

Celebrating Local Food Stories of Vancouver Island & The Gulf Islands

NO.7 | SPRING 2022 | MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

When I was young, my birthday was as big a deal to me as Christmas day, and my mom was the queen of epic birthday celebrations. She would hide a present under my bed when I was sleeping, and when I woke up, I would jump up and look under the bed to see what surprise awaited me. Sometimes it was candy (which was a big deal, because we didn’t usually have candy in our house), or a new dress, or hair ribbons or a toy. I would get whatever I wanted for breakfast–which meant pancakes, of course. But the best part was the birthday cake. She would make her legendary triple-layer white cake layered with jam and topped with white icing and sprinkles (my dad has always called it “Mom’s heavy white cake” because it literally weighs a ton). And then she would fill the cake with money that she carefully wrapped in wax paper.

PUBLISHER + EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Karen Elgersma

ART DIRECTOR Leanne Von Hollen EDITOR

Danielle Steiner COPY EDITOR Trish Weatherall OPERATIONS MANAGER Corry Matechuk SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER Jenny Leung PHOTOGRAPHERS Matt Shannon D.L. Acken Sarah Buckley-Jones Denis Yaouanq GRAPHIC DESIGN Leanne Von Hollen ADVERTISING ediblevancouverisland.com/advertise Peggie Terry Thom Klos Kimberly Johnston CONTACT US 140-4392 West Saanich Road Victoria, BC, V8Z 3E9 editor@ediblevancouverisland.com TO SUBSCRIBE Visit us online at ediblevancouverisland.com Edible Vancouver Island is published six times a year. Subscription rate is $42 CAD annually. LETTERS We welcome your feedback. To write to the editor, use the address above or, for the quickest response, email: editor@ediblevancouverisland.com

I carried on many of my mom’s birthday traditions when I had kids of my own, but it was my mom who would make my children the “money cake.” Last year, when my son turned 20, he asked her to make him a special money cake and of course, my 81-year-old mother honoured his request. I can’t wait to make my granddaughter her first money cake and pass this joyful tradition on to the next generation (for more on birthday cake lore, see Danielle Steiner’s article on page 26). It’s an honour to pay homage to the time-honoured traditions passed down through generations. For many of us, Easter is another example of an occasion filled with traditional dishes. But sometimes, it’s fun to create new traditions together; Emily Lycopolus has some new Easter recipe ideas to try from the land, sea and sky (page 16), and Jessica McKeil inspires us to be intentional about creating DIY traditions with friends and family (page 22). Karen Elgersma

Food is more than sustenance–it’s an expression of our creativity, and we hope this issue helps you to appreciate traditions long-kept, while also inspiring you to seek out the creation of new ones.

ISSUE 26 • MAR/APR 2024

We Deliver! Subscribe at ediblevancouverisland.com to have copies delivered right to your door. Check out our website and follow us on social media @EdibleVanIsle for up-to-date events, recipes and news from the food and drink community of Vancouver Island, the Gulf Islands and the surrounding areas.

ISSUE 26 • MAR/APR 2024 CHOCOLATE LILIES • KITCHEN TRADITIONS • HERRING SPAWNS

Celebrating Local Food Stories of Vancouver Island & The Gulf Islands

Cover photo by Love's Galettes. Find an irresistible buttercream icing recipe from Love's Galettes at ediblevancouverisland.com/recipes/vanilla-swiss-meringue-buttercream

Beacon Law Centre helps owners navigate their food services businesses – restaurants, grocers, and producers – through all their compliance and operational legal needs. Beacon Law is here for the planned events and the surprises. We help you build the right structure and key documents, then guide you through the bumps along the way. Our responsive legal advisors keep you focused on what matters most: the food. In the past months we have advised our food service clients on: startup of a destination restaurant, sale of an established wholesale brand, lease terms for a restaurant location, acquisition of new brands and product lines, corporate and tax structure for an operating group, and intellectual property concerns related to branding. We also helped owners buy homes, plan generational wealth transfers, and ensure that they have a strong personal plan for incapacity. Whether you’re planning something new or growing what you have, we would love to meet with you and help examine the best ways to maximize your prosperity and peace of mind. Reach out to Beacon Law Centre to setup a free one-hour food service meeting with Joshua Steeper, our senior business lawyer.

Beacon Law Centre 250-656-3280 | beaconlaw.ca

Joshua Steeper

LAWYER

2 MAR/APR 2024 EDIBLE VANCOUVER ISLAND

MAR/APR 2024 CONTENTS No. 26

1 welcome letter 4 Island Pantry 6 In Season One-Pan Roasted

29 Edible Guide

Culinary Wanderlust by Liisa Salo

32 Listicle

B.C. Stories Worth Savouring by Gabrielle Plonka

Chicken with Apple, Leeks & Hard Cider

8 Feature

RECIPES IN THIS ISSUE

A Spawn to Signify Spring by Camilla Sampson

17 Frenched Lamb Chops with Black Cherry & Rosemary Gastrique

10 In the Garden Chocolate Lilies by Sabrina Currie 16 Feature Land, Sea & Sky by Emily Lycopolus 22 Island Treasure

18 Citrus and Brandied Duck

18 Oysters with Ginger Rhubarb Mignonette

Kitchen Traditions by Jessica McKeil

36 Leave it to Cedar

26 Celebrations Let Us Eat Cake! by Danielle Steiner

ON THIS PAGE: Island-based St. Patrick's Day cocktail by Andrew Langford, photo Denis Yaouanq

ediblevancouverisland.com 3

island

current faves + new finds pantry

YELLOW DEER MUSTARD Available at fine retailers across British Columbia, Yellow Deer Mustard comes in 8 fun and versatile flavours from Jalapeño Jerk, Honey or Creole to their best seller Dill Pickle. Discover your favourite! Proudly crafted on Vancouver Island with 100% Canadian mustard seed and passion. yellowdeermustard.com

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One-Pan Roasted Chicken WITH APPLE, LEEKS & HARD CIDER

6 MAR/APR 2024 EDIBLE VANCOUVER ISLAND

IN SEASON RECIPE

RECIPE SIERRA WRIGHT OF CULTIVATE ROOTS PHOTO SARAH BUCKLEY–JONES

My journey in the culinary world started 10 years ago. Working with food allowed me to explore many creative avenues and opportunities, eventually leading me to focus on holistic nutrition and cheffing intimate private dining experiences. Living in the charming seaside town of Union Bay, I spend most of my time playing in the kitchen, curating new recipes that showcase Vancouver Island’s abundant seasonal diversity–but becoming a new mom was the ultimate inspiration for this recipe. Time spent in the kitchen looks different now, and this locally sourced nourishing one-skillet wonder is my new favourite ally. This recipe highlights two of my favourite ingredients: leek and apple. Leeks are a brilliant type of onion and one of my personal favourites to cook with due to their mild and subtly sweet flavour. Its delicate, earthy and forgiving profile makes for a wonderful component of many dishes as it complements other flavours. Add fresh apples, the bright acidity of a hard apple cider, and the warmth of bacon and beans, and the depth of this dish really starts to shine. These ingredients marry together with ease, creating a comforting, crowd-pleasing meal chock full of fresh flavours, local inspiration and one-pan simplicity.

METHOD Combine all marinade ingredients in a small mixing bowl. Gently whisk together. Set aside. Score the chicken multiple times, then put the chicken into a large mixing bowl. Pour marinade over chicken and toss together for even distribution. Marinade 4-48 hours. Heat a large cast iron skillet over medium heat. Add bacon and sauté for a few minutes. Add leek, then continue to cook for another 3 minutes, or until softened. Add apple, Swiss chard and beans. Gently toss together and move the mixture to the sides of the pan to create a circle in the centre. Increase the heat to high. Add scored chicken legs (skin down) and sear until lightly crisped (approximately 3 minutes). Frequently rotate bean mixture to prevent burning. Flip chicken and add hard apple cider. Place into the oven on the middle rack and roast for 15 minutes. Then remove from the oven to scoop bean mixture over the chicken legs. Place the skillet back into the oven to continue roasting for another 20 minutes. Preheat the oven to roast 425°F.

main dish Ingredients 4 bone-in, skin-on chicken legs 4 strips smoked bacon, diced 1 leek, sliced 1 medium apple, cored and diced 2 Swiss chard leaves, sliced thinly ½ cup Raven’s Moon Apple Cider 1 can (398ml) white navy beans, drained and rinsed chicken marinade Ingredients 2 Tbsp olive oil 1 Tbsp grainy mustard 1 Tbsp honey 1 tsp red pepper flakes ½ tsp coriander ¼ tsp cinnamon ¼ tsp nutmeg 1 Tbsp garlic, minced 2 tsp fennel seed ½ tsp dried thyme ½ tsp sea salt 3 dashes cayenne ¼ tsp black pepper, freshly ground

Remove from the oven, and allow to cool slightly before serving.

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EDIBLE FEATURE

A Spawn to Signify Spring

USHERING IN THE WARMER SEASONS WITH THE PACIFIC HERRING SPAWN WORDS CAMILLA SAMPSON PHOTOS MATT SHANNON

S almon–Pinks, Coho, Chinook, Chum and Sockeye–have long held the spotlight across Vancouver Island, drawing visitors the world over and titling Campbell River as the "Salmon Capital of the World." But what about the seemingly

to modern-day Alaska, and was the cause for members of many different Indigenous communities to migrate en masse to seasonal herring fishing camps. As the water turned dark and swirling from the droves of fish returning to their spawning grounds, the likes of

humble Pacific herring? A cornerstone of our coastal ecosystems often overlooked; a feeder fish for all manner of other marine and coastal life from birds and larger fish to whales, wolves and bears; and an important signifier of spring. FOLLOWING THE FISH The herring is historically the first fish to arrive each year. According to the 13 Moons of the Sliammon, Klahoose, and Homalco People calendar, a version of which was revitalized in

the Nuu-chah-nulth, Homalco, Komoks and Kwakwaka’wakw Peoples traveled by canoe to their camps–a social event of sustenance. Some groups, such as the Nuu-chah-nulth, got to their camps as early as February to set up, ready for the moment the blue coastal inlets turned milky white from the male herring’s milt. Featured in many traditional myths and songs, herring and its roe (eggs) were far more than simply food; they were important gifts between

Roe is usually eaten raw or sun-dried–the balls popping with each bite, releasing a distinctive but subtle salty taste.

communities. Today, a deep respect continues to exist in small communities across the coast for this little fish. Every March, visitors gather at the Hornby Island Herring Festival with the hope of spotting the pearly white waters and accompanying abundance of marine life–and learning about the importance and processes of traditional Indigenous methods of herring harvesting from guest speakers. THE TASTE OF LAND AND SEA Last year at the festival, Chief Councillor and Stewardship Director of the Kitasoo Xai'xais First Nation, Douglas Neasloss, shared that

2005 by the Sliammon Treaty Society’s Research Department, both “Herring Spawning (Tet’e’ku Tla’gat)” and “Herring Roe (Xaw Xa’qwum)" can be found in March. In recent years, this has tended to occur in early March around our Island, but the start can vary by weeks throughout B.C.’s coast with locals keeping a watchful eye for the first signs of the returning fish. Once it begins, the spawn usually lasts anywhere from two weeks to a month, moving its way along the nearby coastline every few days. The spawn marks the start of spring in many Indigenous traditions up and down the Pacific coastline, from modern-day Oregon

8 MAR/APR 2024 EDIBLE VANCOUVER ISLAND

his community lowers different types of kelp into the water as the herring spawn approaches. The female herring lay their eggs on the

spawning season saw an additional moment of optimism for herring stocks near Vancouver Island when news spread of another spawn

kelp, which is brought out of the water after three or four days to be dried. Boats move through the territory slowly and quietly, minimizing engine noise and loud voices that could scare away herring, and avoiding areas where the spawn is still happening. Their focus is on the roe–the herring themselves are left to spawn another year to keep stocks healthy. Unlike salmon, which only spawns once, herring can spawn up to ten times in their lifetime.

further north at Port McNeill–where many locals shared that it was the first spawn there that they could remember. This year, keep an eye out for a pique in the abundance of sea life: seals, whales and circling birds are often the first, more easily seen, major identifiers of the increase in herring in our local waters. Then, watch for the evident change in water colour as the spawn begins, signaling the start of spring.

The female herring lay their eggs on the kelp, which is brought out of the water after three or four days to be dried.

In some communities instead (or as well as kelp), boughs of western hemlock and red cedar are lowered into the ocean waters in sturdy bundles close to shore with a float at the top and a weight at the bottom. The female herring lay their roe on the boughs which, just like the kelp, are monitored over a few days and then hauled out to dry. Roe is usually eaten raw or sun-dried–the balls popping with each bite, releasing a distinctive but subtle salty taste. The kelp it clings to, rather than being disposed of, is often eaten with the roe in one bite. Otherwise, it is either peeled off the boughs and kelp or even eaten with the hemlock by some groups. The latter has a unique taste that celebrates a food and gathering system that truly encompasses land and sea. THE FUTURE OF HERRING The not-so-humble herring has faced diminishing stocks over the last century due to methods of commercial fisheries, but these traditional, low-impact methods offer hope for the future of the fish. Last year’s

Camilla Sampson has been attending the Hornby Herring Festival since 2021, which is an opportunity for continuous learning and a community signifier of the seasonal shift to spring. camillasampson.com | @millysampson

Conservancy Hornby Island and many coastal non-profit organizations and Indigenous groups educate on and advocate for herring on both sides of the Island. To learn more about the herring, as well as the obstacles both this fish and its dependents are experiencing, you can attend the Hornby Herring Festival in person or virtually from March 7–9, 2024, and watch local films like The Silver in the Sea and Keepers of the Land.

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chocolate lilies Consider planting some of these pretty, dark-purple flowers in your garden this year

WORDS SABRINA CURRIE

i love obscure, wild and unusual edible plants. (In fact, I have planted many native species of edible wild plants, bulbs and mushrooms in my kitchen garden at home and in my forest garden at the cottage.) And chocolate lilies fit right into this category. A LILY BY MANY OTHER NAMES Chocolate lily is a common name for up to three varieties of Fritillaria. (Of note: they are a completely different species than the small plant, Dichopogon strictus from Australia that shares the common name, chocolate lily.) Other common names are wild rice, northern rice root, rice root fritillary, Kamchatka fritillary, checker lily (actually a closely related species) and mission bells. Fritillaria camschatcensis and Fritillaria lanceolata are the most common on the coast, with Fritillaria affinis more often found in the interior of B.C. Chocolate lilies get their name more from the colour of their flower petals than their scent–Fritillaria flowers tend to have a smell closer to doo-doo than cocoa. The flowers are a dark purple with brown or yellow, giving this nodding lily it’s mottled or snakeskin type pattern, and six petals or tepals. All three types found in B.C. bloom in early spring on 20-50 cm tall green stems with elegant, thin leaves and feature small white (and sometimes purple) bulbs that grow many small offshoot bulbs that look like grains of rice. TASTE OF LOCAL HISTORY These sweet, dark lilies are natural to the Pacific Northwest and were a regular part of Coast and Interior Salish people’s

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IN THE GARDEN

seasonal diets, as both the bulb and bulblets can all be eaten. The bulbs grow close to the top of the soil, so Indigenous ancestors used strong sticks, yew wood spades or their bare hands to gently dig them out of the ground without damaging the delicate bulbs. Each group of Indigenous people had their own special ways of preparing the Fritilarria bulbs. With a slightly bitter flavour, this starchy root could be eaten raw or cooked. They could be boiled and stored in seal oil, mashed, added to soups or dried and ground into flour. Often, the rice-like bulbs were soaked overnight before cooking to reduce their bitterness. To preserve the lily bulbs through winter, they were usually partially dried and put in cold storage or cleaned and stored in oil or seal grease. To prepare them yourself, try the tiny, cleaned “rice” raw, in salad or alongside baked salmon. To cook them, simmer gently for 5-15 minutes until cooked through. Serve with butter, salt and pepper, as you HANDLE WITH PATIENCE AND CARE Chocolate lilies tend to grow in Garry oak meadows and in moist, well-drained sunny fields, slopes and at the edges of tidal flats, but are not as common to find in the wild as they once were, because of overharvesting and development of natural areas. If you find some while foraging and choose to pick some, be sure to take only a small percentage to prevent overharvesting–and when picking the bulb clump up, leave a few rice-sized mini bulbs in the ground to regrow, because once the bulbs are harvested, the plant is gone. Because these are a diminishing wildflower, they are best planted and grown in your own garden if you want to harvest the bulbs to eat. If you want to try growing them, they can be grown from seed, bulblet or large bulb. Choose a spot with full sun to partial shade in well-drained but moisture-retentive soil that is neutral or slightly acidic. Ideally, would boiled potatoes. They are a great addition added to soup too–but they don’t need long, so add them along with the seafood or in the last 10 15 minutes of cooking.

they should be planted in mid- to late-fall, but they can also be planted in early spring, as soon as the ground can be worked. Water often during the dryer months, especially until the tiny lilies get established. Started from seed, these small Fritillaria can take up to 3-5 years to bloom, but planted from bulb, they will bloom much sooner. Once the greens are growing well, you can (and should) divide the bulbs every 2-3 years, depending on the density and health of the growth, to cultivate more flowers and bulbs. The bulbs are best harvested just after blooming (usually late spring, depending on where you live) when they are most full of nutrients, though they can be harvested right through to late fall. Sabrina Currie plans to add chocolate lilies to her garden this year so that she can harvest a few to taste a bit of B.C. history, valuing efforts to keeping coastal species alive and abundant.

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A date for every desire Four curated dates in Parksville Qualicum Beach according to your personality types

art gallery and learning centre showcasing vibrant island talent. Another great stop is Salish Sea Market, a year-round West Coast market that shares the talents of over 195 local artists with their collection of art and gifts. After an afternoon spent wandering museums and art collections, complete your date with a classy dinner. For an incomparable evening view over the ocean as the sun dips lower in the sky, Nanoose Bay Cafe is a perfect choice. They use many locally sourced ingredients in their family-run location known for its exceptional dining experience. Qualicum Beach Cafe is a great option as well, especially if your date falls on a Saturday, when they have live music entertainment to complement their West Coast/Italian cuisine. FREE-SPIRIT DATES One of our favourite date ideas involves two of life’s most quintessential things–shopping and eating. Combine the two by shopping local markets for the perfect ingredients for an afternoon picnic. If your date falls on a Saturday, the Qualicum Beach Farmers’ Market is the perfect place to start your date. They’re open year round from 8:30am to noon and have all the fixings for every type of picnic–whether it’s charcuterie style, filled with pastries or make-your-own-sandwich. You can even pick up some flowers for your sweetheart while you’re there. Then, since you’re already in Qualicum Beach, head to the shore–where you’ll find four kilometers of breathtaking sandy beaches. If you came prepared with a blanket for the grass or the beach, great; but if not, spread out your local feast on one of the many picnic tables overlooking the water. In Errington, you’ll also find a Saturday morning farmers’ market that runs May to September. Buy a tote bag there to carry your spoils in–from produce, meat and cheese, and delightful dessert options like chocolate, cookies and pies. Another unique experience would be to shop for your picnic items at the Coombs Old Country Market (open seasonally). Be a little daring when you wander the store and try out some imported goods new to both of you, and then grab a couple of freshly made donuts at Billy G’s Doughnut Shop. There are lots of tables and places around to enjoy the bustling ambiance and, of course, your picnic. FAMILY-FRIENDLY DATES Whether it’s a father-daughter date, a mother-son excursion or the whole family just needs to spend some quality time together outside the home, make your family date a memorable one by

When it comes to dating, there is no one-size-fits-all approach. Some couples prefer a classic dinner, while others like walks on the beach or casual strolls through town. Whatever flavour of date works for you and your partner, you can make it happen in Parksville Qualicum Beach. To help you plan your perfect date, we’ve broken down a few ideas based on your preferences–do you love the outdoors? Do you like learning? Do you go with the flow? Do you have kids with you? Check out these awesome pre-planned date ideas according to what suits you! ADVENTURE-SEEKER DATES Get your adrenaline pumping! Horne Lake Caves is the perfect place to adventure with your date in a safe but exciting way. They offer a variety of cave exploration packages, from more relaxed cave experiences to action-packed adventures that include rappelling deep underground. Another fun option is to book a whale watching boat tour with Ocean Ecoventures. They offer both half day and full-day whale and wildlife watching adventures in a vessel with no more than 12 guests, offering an intimate, informative and unforgettable outdoor experience. Finally, for a less dramatic but still outdoor-centric option, choose one of many beautiful hikes in the region. For a short walking option, Englishman River Falls offers a 1.3km out-and-back walk with beautiful views both above and below the cascading waterfalls. Nothing says romance quite like chasing waterfalls together. In our opinion, one of the best ways to conclude an outdoor experience is by kicking back with a pint at a local brewery. Because you also need to replenish the calories burned on your hike, make sure it’s a brewery that also has a hearty menu. At Mount Arrowsmith Brewing Company you get the best of both worlds with local craft beer and delicious pizza. If you’re in the mood for a menu with varied other options while not compromising on delicious craft beer, Fern + Cedar Brewing Company is also a must try. For a very unique island experience, Rusted Rake in Nanoose Bay is a great option–they make their beer directly from the barley they grow on their own little seaside farm, truly allowing you to experience the terroir of the region. CULTURE-CENTRED DATES If your idea of a great date involves getting to intimately know a region, then this is your date. To understand the history of the area and learn the stories of people and events that shaped the region, check out the Parksville Museum or the Qualicum Beach Museum. Not far from the latter is The Old School House Arts Centre, a public

12 MAR/APR 2024 EDIBLE VANCOUVER ISLAND

doing activities that everyone will enjoy. And who doesn’t enjoy a rousing game of miniature golf?

At Riptide Lagoon Adventure Golf, you can enjoy two unique mini golf courses–one which features water obstacles and the other with some elevation challenges. And of course, the best way to finish up an afternoon of mini golf is with some ice cream; the mini golf clubhouse serves 24 refreshing flavours (and mini donuts, if you prefer). Meanwhile, Paradise Fun Park provides a classic mini golf course originally built in 1988, as well as a pirate-themed course. They’ve also got ice cream to make the whole family happy. But if you want to experience a little more of the area, after you’ve mini golfed, hop in the car and head to one of many other ice cream locations in the region. Ice Cream Dreams on the Qualicum Beach boardwalk will please every member of the family by providing the toppings of your choice to each cone, while Little Qualicum Cheeseworks offers the opportunity to not just indulge in their own vanilla or chocolate soft serve, but to wander the grounds on a self-guided tour and stop by the petting farm. And if the kids love animals, another great stop would be the North Island Wildlife Recovery Centre, where the whole family can enjoy meeting eagles, owls, bears, turtles, ravens and more.

Clockwise from upper left: 1) Enjoying seaside views in Parksville Qualicum Beach 2) Bayside Café 3) Fern + Cedar 4) Qualicum Beach Cafe

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Things to Do

Start Exploring Parksville Qualicum Beach is where memories come to life; the smells and sounds, tastes and textures that bring you back to a time when the world was a little smaller, people were a little nicer, and time wasn’t a big worry. Whether you’re planning a summer vacation, a spring getaway, or a winter escape, alone or with the important people in your life, use our blog to discover the unique mix of people, businesses, and experiences that are sure to make your next visit memorable. Welcome to the small-town charm of our communities! myPQB.ca/blog

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16 MAR/APR 2024 EDIBLE VANCOUVER ISLAND

EDIBLE FEATURE

Land, Sea & Sky Celebrate Easter this year by trading out the ham for some more adventurous dishes

WORDS EMILY LYCOPOLUS PHOTOS D.L. ACKEN

Frenched Lamb Chops with Black Cherry & Rosemary Gastrique Ingredients for the lamb chops 10-12 lamb loin chops, bone in and frenched ¼ cup olive oil

In a small sauce pan over medium heat, place the cherries, sugar, wine, vinegar and rosemary. Bring to a low boil, then turn down the heat to low to simmer, stirring occasionally for 20 minutes or until the sauce has reduced by half. Remove from heat and let cool, then remove the sprig of rosemary. Place in a blender, or use an immersion blender, to blend a lump-free sauce. The gastrique should easily coat the back of a spoon. If it’s too watery, return to the stove and continue to reduce until the desired consistency is reached. Stir in the ginger and sumac. Store in an airtight container, in the fridge, for up to 2 weeks. To Serve Preheat the oven to 450°F and remove the lamb chops from the fridge. Roast for 10-12 minutes, until caramelized and golden. Let rest 5 minutes, and place on a serving platter. Warm gastrique if needed and drizzle over lamb chops. Add remaining gastrique in a small serving dish to serve on the side.

As soon as we begin to pull out of winter slumber, with its cozy comfort foods and long dark days, I begin to think about Easter meals. Easter for me means spring is officially here, bringing with it the promise of warmth and gardens overflowing with produce. In these early days, I savour the freshness in the air—and on my plate. Don’t get me wrong, I still want those comfort-food flavours, but with an extra crunch from fresh peas or an extra squeeze of lemon to wake up my tastebuds. These are three recipes that I love to enjoy this time of year, a mix of traditional with a nod to all that’s to come. The duck is familiar but fresh, simple and elegant, delightful and bright in both appearance and flavour. Oysters, in their prime from our frigid oceans, are best served with fresh bread and a simple green salad for a light meal or as an appetizer. Lamb chops with a tangy gastrique are perfect for a holiday celebration, Easter meal or special spring dinner—and shared with good company.

2 Tbsp apricot jam 2 Tbsp lemon juice 2 tsp chopped fresh rosemary sea salt and black pepper

Ingredients for the grastrique 2 cups pitted cherries, frozen and thawed

¾ cup brown sugar ½ cup dry red wine

¼ cup balsamic vinegar 1 sprig fresh rosemary

1 tsp grated ginger 1 tsp ground sumac

METHOD Pat the lamb chops with paper towel and place them on a parch ment paper-lined baking sheet. In a small bowl, whisk together olive oil, jam, lemon juice and ginger. Then using a pastry brush, coat each side of the meat evenly with the mixture. Cover with plastic wrap and transfer to the fridge to marinate at least 1 hour or up to overnight.

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Citrus & Brandied Duck

oven and remove the rack from the roasting pan. Place duck on a carving board and cover lightly with foil to rest 10 minutes before serving. While the duck is resting, prepare the sauce. Pour the drippings from the roasting pan through a fine mesh strainer into a medium sauce pan. In a small bowl, whisk the brandy, cream and corn starch, then pour into the medium sauce pan whisking to combine. Place over medium-high heat and bring just to a boil, stirring constantly. Remove from heat and place in a serving bowl. Carve the duck and serve alongside the brandied cream sauce.

Ingredients 1 red onion 4 cloves garlic 1 duck (4-5 lbs) 3 cups chicken stock 1/3 cup lemon juice

¼ cup honey 1 tsp sea salt 1 tsp fresh ground black pepper ¼ cup brandy

¾ cup 35% cream 2 Tbsp corn starch

METHOD Slice the onion into thick rounds and crush the garlic cloves, then place in the bottom of the roasting pan, below the rack. Remove duck from packaging, remove the giblets from the cavity and pat dry. Prick the duck all over with a paring knife. Place the duck breast-side-down on the rack of the roasting pan and fill the pan with 2 cups of chicken stock, or until it comes just below the rack, not touching the duck. In a small bowl, whisk together lemon juice, honey, salt and pepper. Using a pastry brush, brush the lemon-honey mixture over the duck. Roast uncovered for 30 minutes in the prepared oven. Remove from oven, turn the duck breast side up, brush again with the lemon-honey mixture and roast for 30 more minutes uncovered. Remove from oven, baste again with the remaining honey-lemon mixture and add remaining chicken stock to the pan, ensuring the bottom does not go dry, while also ensuring the stock does not touch the duck. Return to the oven and roast an additional 5-10 minutes, until the internal temperature of the thigh reaches 155°F. Remove from

Oysters with Ginger Rhubarb Mignonette Ingredients 1 tsp grated fresh ginger ¼ cup red wine vinegar 2 Tbsp honey ½ rib fresh rhubarb 12-18 oysters lemons for garnish

METHOD In a small mixing bowl, whisk ginger, vinegar and honey until the honey is fully incorporated and dissolved. Mince rhubarb finely and add to the mixing bowl. Cover a serving platter with crushed ice. Shuck the oysters and place on the half shell on the platter. Top half the oysters with ½ tsp of the mignonette, and serve the remaining in a small serving dish on the platter. Garnish with lemon wedges and serve immediately.

250-752-0077 692 Bennett Rd. Qualicum Beach WILDCULTUREBAKERY.COM SOURDOUGH BREAD | PIZZA | SWEETS

18 MAR/APR 2024 EDIBLE VANCOUVER ISLAND

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EAT. DRINK. LOCAL GUIDE

Nothing heralds the arrival of warmer temperatures and summer promises quite like a beautiful weekend brunch. Across the island, restaurants celebrate the spring season by creating breakfast and brunch menus that highlight West Coast ingredients. They partner with local farmers, fishers, brewers, vintners and producers in celebration of our local food and drink communities. Our EAT. DRINK. LOCAL guide has a few ideas of where to visit for a fresh spring brunch experience.

Photo courtesy of Long Beach Lodge

Crown Isle Resort Crown Isle Resort welcomes you for breakfast seven days a week in the beautiful Atrium, overlooking the 18th green and Comox Glacier. Enjoy dishes from Chef Dan Vogt, including Smoked Salmon Eggs Benedict, Brioche French Toast, and a Breakfast Focaccia Sandwich - perfect with a mimosa. Daily, 9-11:30am. Reservations are encouraged. @crownisle 399 Clubhouse Drive, Courtenay crownisle.com/dining 250-703-5088

Boom + Batten Indulge in the allure of Boom + Batten's brunch; seven days a week from opening until 2 pm. Set against the inner harbour, their elevated casual dining experience combines a picturesque view with an inventive Pacific Northwest-inspired menu. Sourced locally, their chefs craft dishes that capture the essence of the region. @boombatten 2 Paul Kane Place, Victoria boomandbatten.com 250-940-5850

Alpina Restaurant at Villa Eyrie Resort Ranked among the top 6 brunch hotspots on Vancouver Island, Alpina Restaurant at Villa Eyrie Resort is a foodie must. Indulge in an array of European inspired brunch creations meticulously crafted to delight even the most discerning palates. Skip the lines and reserve your table in the sky today. @VillaEyrie 600 Ebadora Lane, Villa Eyrie Resort villaeyrie.com 250-856-0188

Qualicum Beach Cafe The Qualicum Beach Cafe is your Oceanside destination for West Coast Breakfast & Brunch! Our Team will greet you with a smile bright and early for Breakfast, served from 8am – enjoy an Early Bird special from 8am-9am! More of a late riser? We have Brunch on from 11am-3pm! We look forward to hosting you. @qualicumbeachcafe 2690 Island Hwy W, Qualicum Beach qualicumbeachcafe.com 250-752-8146

Nanoose Bay Coffee Shop The Nanoose Bay Cafe Coffee Shop is your marina-side morning destination, with locally roasted French Press Coffee Roasters' brew and house-made light fare. With an outlet at nearly every seat and a friendly Kids Corner, we welcome all to work, relax, and connect. Make sure you check out the Marketplace for amazing local artisan goods! @nanoosebaycafe 3521 Dolphin Drive, Nanoose Bay nanoosebaycafe.com 250-468-0780

Rusted Rake Our Sunday Brunch is inspired by our approach to food…fresh, unpretentious west coast fare, lovingly prepared with the most delicious local ingredients available. Available 9am-2pm every Sunday until Mothers Day. Brisket Benedict and mimosa, anyone? Meet you at The Rake. @rustedrakebrewing 3106 Northwest Bay Road, Nanoose Bay rrbrewing.ca 250-821-1934