Edible Vancouver Island Mar/Apr 2023

Enjoying a glass of port at the Wickaninnish Inn

become the Island’s most celebrated in its class, produced almost since the winery was established in the mid-1990s. “We’ve always made it from Madeleine Sylvaner, which is often overlooked, and a fantastic cool-climate variety,” says co-owner Marilyn Schulze. She adds that Brandenburg no. 3 (named for J.S. Bach’s famous and multi-layered concerto) is probably “our next best seller after our Brut and Pinot Noir.” What’s important is that “despite being sweet, the wine isn’t cloying because it has such great acidity. And that,” she adds, “is the key to any great dessert wine, whether it’s Vin Santo or Trockenbeerenauslese.” As far as what to drink it with? This classic dessert wine goes with just about anything, from foie gras to creme brulée with orange hazelnut biscotti. One place where you will always find a glass of dessert wine or Port is at Tofino’s stunning, oceanside Wickaninnish Inn, where guests enjoy a welcoming decanter awaiting in their room—the perfect companion come rain or shine. Any Port in a storm, you could say. Even though Vancouver-based wine and food writer Tim Pawsey (hiredbelly.com) has no desire to actually harvest icewine (in -8°C temperatures), he does enjoy the occasional glass—especially Riesling paired with goat cheese and French vanilla ice cream.

Tast ing Notes

Blue Grouse Fortified Black Muscat NV Vancouver Island, $65.99 Deep Port-like ruby in the glass, aromas of dried plum and hazelnut leading to a vanilla and caramel palate with a hint of sweet smokiness. Unsworth Vineyards Ovation BC VQA Vancouver Island, $24.90 Made from 100% Marechal Foch, layered and complex, with flavours of dried cherry, caramel, coffee and raisin. Rocky Creek Wild Blackberry Vancouver Island, $29.00 Heady blackberry aromas followed by a plush and jammy, fruit-driven palate that’s distinctly wild, earthy and spicy with a touch of anise. Averill Creek Vermouth NV Vancouver Island $35.20 Aromatics of old-growth red cedar, Cowichan-grown tea leaves, pink peppercorn, cardamom and other spices precede a generous, developed and layered palate that’s tart with a dry close. Venturi-Schulze Brandenburg No. 3 2013 Vancouver Island $36.60 Amber in the glass, 100% Madeleine Sylvaner delivers a rich, sweet wine balanced by bright acidity, with earthy, caramel and coffee notes, just 8.8% alcohol with no sulfites or preservatives added.

A divine bottle of Blue Grouse wine

42 MAR/APR 2023 EDIBLE VANCOUVER ISLAND