Edible Vancouver Island Mar/Apr 2023

izing cooking techniques for novel results and more efficient cooking processes. ON VANCOUVER I SLAND I reached out to some local restaurateurs for their take on molec ular gastronomy and its relevance. “Molecular gastronomy is an interesting idea to me,” says Clayton Thornber, general manager of Wind Cries Mary in Victoria. “I think that it has a time and a place, and can add to an experience, but I feel that it sometimes goes too far.” You won’t find outright molecular gastronomy techniques used at Wind Cries Mary. “We feel that the flavours should be big, bold, and you should never be searching for them. But,” he adds, “That’s just what works for our food. I have had some incredible dining experiences when gastronomy is woven into the experience in the right amount.” I also had an interesting conversation with Brian Tesolin, execu tive chef at The Courtney Room, who spoke passionately about how applying principles of molecular gastronomy could not only enhance the overall taste and experience of certain dishes, but also act as a brilliant problem solver—allowing even those with dietary restrictions to enjoy a wider range of textures and intensified flavours than previously possible. For example, by us ing thickening agents derived from seaweed rather than animal products, or finding novel ways to create gluten-free dishes, ev eryone is able to have an equally exceptional dining experience. Tesolin enthusiastically described many of the techniques and agents used in dishes at The Courtney Room and the resulting creations sounded both intriguing and mouth-watering. For

instance, they use modified starch to alter chocolate into a dried form that can be made into different shapes, looks like a rock, crumbles in your mouth, and then rehydrates upon contact with your saliva, reverting back to its original form. The idea is to give your brain an experience it wasn’t expecting. F I NAL THOUGHTS Although the current mood is for more rustic and natural food presentation styles, there is still a time and place for the “wow” factor. And while you may not see as many whimsical and architectural creations coming out of res taurant kitchens as you did in the ’90s, many of the concepts and techniques of molecular gastronomy are now commonplace in restaurant kitchens across the world and are simply part of modern cooking. For creative chefs eager to push the boundaries of what is possible, molecular gastronomy offers endless possibili ties. Admittedly, while some experimental creations will not have mass appeal—clear ravioli, carrot air or apple caviar have a nar row target market—molecular gastronomy has undoubtedly re sulted in advancements in food preparation. We seem to be at an ideal point in history where we can embrace traditional methods of cooking along with progressive ones, reaching greater culinary heights than ever before, whether you’re experimenting at home or dining out. Liisa Salo is a writer and editor from Victoria who loves to cook but plans to leave the scientific elements of gastronomy to professionally trained chefs. markmywordsediting.ca

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