Edible Vancouver Island Mar/Apr 2023

Celebrating Local Food Stories of Vancouver Island & The Gulf Islands

Every morning, rain or shine, I take my dog Reggie to Horth Hill Regional Park in North Saanich for a hike. With panoramic views of the Saanich Peninsula and the Gulf Islands, this daily practice feeds my soul. My favourite time of year to hike is spring; as the forest wakes from its winter slumber, I nd myself indulging in a little forest bathing, drinking in the rich colours, listening to the birds singing and breathing in the sweet air. ere is one section of the hike where there are hundreds of white fawn lilies, and sometimes as I enter this magical part of the trail, I experience what C.S. Lewis calls a “surprised by joy” moment, and I am lled with a deep sense of hope.

PUBLISHER + EDITOR IN CHIEF Karen Elgersma

ART DIRECTOR Danika McDowell EDITOR

Danielle Steiner COPY EDITOR Trish Weatherall SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER Jenny Leung PHOTOGRAPHERS Danika McDowell Heidi Richter Janis Jean

For gardeners, spring is a time when you can get a little dreamy and make a wish list of new plants you want to add to your garden and projects you want to take on. Discover the art of beekeeping in our article Beekeeping 101 by Rick Janzen, a hobby that will not only help your garden grow, but help our planet (page 28). And as no garden is complete without pollinators, Sabrina Currie tells us how to add a few things that will get your garden buzzing (page 34). If you are looking for a fun DIY project this spring, we also have the 411 from the owners of Island Reveries on how to make your own bee’s wax wraps (page 36). is spring has the whole team at Edible looking at fun ways to connect with our readers, and with that comes the launch of a new page we are calling “Reader Recipes.” We welcome your recipes and the story behind the dish! at’s the best part—that, and enjoying that dish with friends and family. (Submit recipes to editor@ediblevancouverisland.com.) Robin Williams once said, “Spring is nature’s way of saying, ‘let’s party!’” Whether you invite friends and family to picnic under a cherry blossom tree or have a spring brunch experience at one of our Island’s delectable restaurants, we hope you celebrate this season with people you love and food that feeds your body and soul.

Sabrina Currie AD DESIGN Leanne Von Hollen ADVERTISING Wendy Dagg Dawn Postniko Peggie Terry ediblevancouverisland.com/advertise CONTACT US 140-4392 West Saanich Road Victoria, BC, V8Z 3E9 editor@ediblevancouverisland.com TO SUBSCRIBE Visit us online at ediblevancouverisland.com Edible Vancouver Island is published six times a year. Subscription rate is $42 CAD annually. LETTERS We welcome your feedback. To write to the editor, use the address above or, for the quickest response, email: editor@ediblevancouverisland.com

Karen Elgersma

Edible Vancouver Island magazine is published six times per year by Karen Elgersma Media INC. 140-4392 West Saanich Road, Victoria, BC V8Z 3E9

I’m dedicating this issue to one of my best friends, Judy Schuring, who taught me how to make the best grilled cheese in the world and chill milk to perfection, and introduced me to the joys of farm life. Judy, I remember every crazy, silly, fun moment, and I promise I will share those stories with your kids and grandkids. You won’t be forgotten.

No part of these publications may be reproduced in any form without the written permission of the publisher. Every e ort is made to avoid errors and omissions. If you notice an error, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us. © 2023. All rights reserved.

Printed in the U.S.

We Deliver! Subscribe at ediblevancouverisland.com to have copies delivered right to your door. Check out our website and follow us on social media @EdibleVanIsle for up-to-date events, recipes and news from the food and drink community of Vancouver Island, the Gulf Islands and the surrounding areas.

On the cover: Fizzy Busy Bee—recipe on page 48. Photo by Danika McDowell.

Yann Guerin

Lingcod en Papillote with spring vegetables

• INGREDIENTS •

Serves 2

300g lingcod, cut into 2 portions 5 cups of spring vegetables sliced no more then ½” thick. (Some of my favourites are patty pan squash, leeks, spring onions, fava beans, peas, morel mushrooms) anything green that “springs” to mind 1 Tbsp grainy mustard

1 Tbsp apple cider vinegar 1 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil ¼ cup finely chopped parsley 1 Tbsp kosher salt ½ lemon cut into 4 thin slices 2x 8x12 sheets of parchment paper 2x 18” lengths of twine • METHOD • Preheat oven to 400F

Whisk together mustard, vinegar, olive oil, parsley and salt to make a dressing. Set aside 1 Tbsp of the dressing and toss the rest of it with your sliced veggies. Divide the dressed veg in two and lay in the center of each sheet of parchment. Top veg with 2 lemon slices each and place the fish on top of that. Drizzle the remaining dressing over the 2 pieces of fish. Wrap the bundles securely and tie closed with twine. Bake bundles on a sheet pan for 18-20 minutes. Can be lifted out of the bundle and placed on a plate or enjoyed straight from the parchment. WILD • SUSTAINABLE • WEST COAST f inestatsea.com VICTORIA Seafood Market 250.383.7760 VANCOUVER Seafood Market Grocer + Deli 604.266.1904 • V I S I T U S •

M A R / A P R 2 0 2 3 CON T EN T S No. 20

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we l c ome l e t t e r

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E D I B L E D E S I GN That’s a Wrap by Kylee Abrahamson + Kala Murray

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F I E L D NO T E S edible news + notes worth sharing

3 8

C U L I NARY S C I E NC E Molecular Gastronomy by Liisa Salo L O C A L L I BAT I ONS A Flourishing Finish by Tim Pawsey

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I S L AND PAN T RY

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I N S E A S ON Nettle & Goat Cheese Galette by Amber Van Male

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E D I B L E P R O F I L E Chef Jade Berg by Camilla Sampson C U RR E N T C RAV I NG S An Egg-cellent Choice by Heidi Richter E D I B L E G U I D E A Spoonful of Honey i s l and t r e a s u r e Beekeeping 101 by Rick Janzen I N T H E GARD E N Bee a Friendly Face by Sabrina Currie

RECIPES IN THIS ISSUE

2 4

8 Nettle & Goat Cheese Galette

18 Shoreline Chowder

2 7

26 Kaiserschmarrn

2 8

30 Honey Lime Prawns

47 Reader Recipes

for Easter Brunch

3 4

48 Fizzy Busy Bee Cocktail

ON THIS PAGE: Sunflower with honey bee. Photo by Sabrina Currie.

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V A N C O U V E R I S L A N D G R O W N Y E L L O W C E D A R G R E E N H O U S E S

I n t e g r i t y . Qu a l i t y . C r a f t s ma n s h i p . R e l a t i o n s h i p .

These are the powerful words that Todd Marzoff uses when describing the legacy of his father’s work that he is determined to continue in his business, Zoff’s Greenhouses.

“Both our businesses are using Zoff’s Greenhouses. These are proving to be great builds and use only the best of local, quality materials. I personally recommend the greenhouses and garden planters to anyone who is interested in growing their own food.” – Craig Murray, Founder Nimmo Bay Resort

Todd’s father, Ken Marzoff started building these masterpieces 40 years ago with the assistance of his mother Joan Marzoff. Coupled with Ken’s skilled craftsmanship and Joan’s keen gardening sense, they created this design which is both beautiful and functional. Custom designed by Todd, todays greenhouses have a critical attention to detail, with the customers requirements in mind, and are built to last.

Vancouver Island owned and operated, using locally grown and custom milled yellow cedar from the North Island.

(250) 230-0085 | info@zoffsgreenhouses.ca zoffsgreenhouses.ca

edible news + notes worth sharing field notes

in the community >> 32 Lakes Café and Bakery takes 1% of the sales from their roastery’s 340g Signature Line coffee to give back to their communities, by buying local ingredients to create soup

>> Biryani Palace is a new Middle Eastern restaurant opened by a husband-and-wife team at 2709 Quadra Street in Victoria, the former home of Pluto’s Diner. They’ve already become a popular destination for those craving South Asian cuisine, so check them out next time you’re in the area.

>> When your adventure seeking heart leads you to the renowned mountain biking trails of Cumber land, fuel your exploration with coffee and food from the new Laneway Coffee & Kitchen . Open Wednesday to Sunday from 8am to 3pm, they offer craft coffee and hot, made-to-order sandwiches and sides. >> MeeT , the popular

portions that are frozen and donated to seniors and elders in the Qathet regional district/ Powell River and Tla’amin community as well as the Comox Valley. >> If you’re in the Comox Valley region and have a child who loves helping you in the kitchen, check out the Young Cooks Program by Lush Valley. The after-school program teaches aspiring young cooks in a safe and supportive environment; they’ll learn to read and create recipes and cook for the family, as well as learn about local food sustainability and positive food choices. >> In Port Alberni, the Dock+ Food in Focus program offers a variety of fun, food-focussed workshops for you or the whole family, including foraging, knife skills, cooking, composting and more. Check out playinpa.ca for more information.

plant-based restaurant from Vancouver, now has a location in Victoria at 797 Hillside Ave. Their goal is to provide a safe space for all people to enjoy a meal that nourishes body and soul with food that highlights the limitless possibilities vegetables can provide.

new places

>> Block Kitchen + Bar recently opened in

downtown Victoria, offer ing a fresh global menu and creative cocktails. The exposed brick

walls, colourful murals and warm atmosphere foster conversation and connection, and patrons are encouraged to share dishes to further the engaging dining experience.

>> In Gibsons, restaurant Brassica has been making waves for the past few months with their family-style, coursed dining experience that highlights local seasonal ingredients. With a beautiful dining room and patio overlooking the marina, they offer simple, yet abundantly flavourful food.

We update our Edible News + Notes online monthly. Check ediblevancouverisland.com and fol low @EdibleVanIsle on social media

ediblevancouverisland.com 5

current faves + new nds island pantry

FOREST FOR DINNER’S avourful and nutritious wild harvested botanicals are patiently and sustainably picked from the forests and meadows of Vancouver Island & BC. We lovingly handcraft each unique and delectable product with wild ingredients. Discover the bountiful of Vancouver Island through our new line of wild botanicals online at forestfordinner.ca or at selected retailers across the island. TWO CROW’S CRAFT FOODS grew from Marie & Hayden’s love of mustard and has expanded to include cocktail garnishes, olives, and accoutrements. They take their motto “spread the love” seriously by prioritizing local ingredients and working with Island growers & makers to develop new products. Check out twocrowsmustard.com MARTHA’S DELECTABLES Have you experienced our Premium Scottish Shortbread? Introducing our latest avours, Savoury Herb and Cheese and Island Lavender. Savoury adorns charcuterie platters and pairs well with a nice glass of red on a Friday night. Shop local, online at marthasdelectables.ca or at the bakery Unit 3 – 1267 Fair eld Road Victoria. PINK PEONY LUXURY PICNICS o ers unique, elegantly designed picnic experiences. With lavish, Instagram worthy set-ups, all our picnic packages include charcuterie boards, as well as many add-on options. Choose from one of our carefully scouted beach or park locations, or picnic in your own backyard. pinkpeonyluxurypicnics.com AT WESTHOLME TEA , we care about the whole tea drinking experience: tastes, textures, aromas, cultures, stories, and pure enjoyment in every cup. We also know tea to be more than just a beverage, but a medicine. Shop online or visit our Teashop to sip with the seasons and support wellbeing with our Spring Wellness Set. westholmetea.com@westholme_tea

S P O N S O R E D C O N T E N T

6 MAR/APR 2023 EDIBLE VANCOUVER ISLAND

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I N S E A S O N R E C I P E

This recipe is reprinted with permission from the new cookbook Taste of Life on Quadra Island

G A L E T T E This is an earthy dish, with the deep green of the nettles contrasting against the goat cheese to give it rustic eye-appeal. The galette tastes great either hot or cold, making it yet another terrific option for a picnic or potluck. Serves 6

RECIPE AMBER VAN MALE PHOTO VINCE KEHN

Galette pastry dough 8 cups of fresh nettles, packed 1 Tbsp butter, lard, or oil 1 large leek or two smaller ones, diced (use the green stems too) 2 to 3 cloves chopped garlic 1 Tbsp balsamic vinegar or apple cider vinegar 1 cup chèvre (goat cheese) 1 large egg, beaten; plus an egg for a pastry wash salt and pepper to taste I N G R E D I E N T S

M E T H O D Make the pastry and refrigerate for 1 hour.

Preheat the oven to 375 F.

Gently wash nettles in a colander, using tongs to keep from getting stung. Heat fat in a large pan and sauté leeks and garlic until translucent and lightly browned. Add nettles and vinegar; and cook until slightly wilted and any liquid has evaporated. Transfer to a bowl and let cool a bit; then add cheese, egg, and seasonings. Roll out pastry dough to a 16-inch circle and transfer to baking sheet. Add the filling to the centre of the prepared dough. Fold a 1½-inch border from the outer edge toward the centre, crimping as necessary, and leaving the centre open. Whisk an egg with a slash of water and brush it on the pastry. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, or until golden brown. Cool before slicing.

Harvesting Nettles, by Jennifer Banks-Doll

Little whorls of nettle leaves first appear in early March and the harvest continues for up to four weeks, ending when flower fronds appear along their stalks. Nettles are rich in vitamins and minerals. The perfect tonic at the end of winter! Nettles are often found in disturbed, moist areas. Some foragers prefer to cut just the new buds and first leaves, while others harvest the full top portion. Many pick a basketful of stems with leaves to hang from the ceiling above the woodstove to dry for winter use as a tonic.Use gloves and scissors to protect your fingers during harvest. Cooking removes the sting.

If you do get stung, wash and apply a paste of baking soda mixed with a little water. Ice helps too.

ediblevancouverisland.com 9

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Scan the QR code for more information on foraging in PQB

Treasure Hunting in the Forest

Imagine yourself on a treasure hunt in a quiet, magical forest, with misty air, verdant moss, and unmatched serenity. In your hands, you carry the tools to aid your treasure hunt: a compass, a knife, and a bucket—but wait, is that bucket full of holes?

It is when the treasure you’re hunting for is of the mushroom variety. Tucked among the forest floor of Vancouver Island are hundreds of species of mushrooms, hiding in wait for you to seek them out. And it turns out, bringing a bucket full of holes is an important part of foraging for mushrooms. “You need to make sure there is airflow in the container you bring,” says Benjamin Patarin of Forest for Dinner. As co founder and CEO of the wildcrafting company, he knows everything there is to know about foraging on Vancouver Island, specializing in bringing foraged products to retail shelves and conducting foraging tours. “If the mushrooms can’t breathe, they will go rotten really quickly,” he continues. “The holes allow airflow, and if it rains, the water can escape so you don’t end up with just a mushy mess in a bucket.”Other good alternatives are wicker baskets and mesh bags, which provide the same benefits and might be more convenient to keep on hand. Neil Horner of Mushroom Savage is a passionate mushroom picker who has been selling his foraged treasures at the farmer’s market in Parksville Qualicum Beach for seven years, and he says the buckets also serve another purpose. “As you’re hiking, you will be spreading the spores of the mushrooms you’ve already picked. Putting the mushrooms in a permeable membrane helps you fertilize the area as you go.” But before you head into the woods with your buckets, it’s important to know what exactly you’re looking for. Patarin

recommends that if you’re new to mushroom foraging, you start by hunting for chanterelles. “It’s a really easy mushroom to start with, because it’s easy to recognize,”he explains. “Figure out a couple of species that are easy to identify, then you find them, bring them home, and over time start growing the list of species you’re confident with identifying.” As you grow your list of identified mushrooms, you’ll also discover a wide range of flavours and uses. Horner explains that while the chanterelle is a versatile mushroom that goes well in soup, stew, stir fry, stuffing, steak and more, the cauliflower mushroom has an egg noodle texture that substitutes well as pasta. Chicken of the woods tastes like—you guessed it, chicken; lion’s mane tastes like shrimp; and hedgehog mushrooms have a delightfully nutty flavour. So regardless of your taste preferences, the variety of mushroom flavours and textures makes it easy to customize your picking to your liking. Once you know what you’re looking for, you can pick up that bucket full of holes and let the treasure hunt begin! Forest for Dinner specifically chose their home base in the Parksville Qualicum Beach area because of how central it is for traveling around to find mushrooms in various areas, with multiple ecosystems providing diverse mushroom species growth. In fact, Patarin says there are over 3,000 species of mushrooms growing in forests on Vancouver Island. Other key things to bring with you are a walking stick, whistle, bear spray and a compass. Wear boots that can handle swampy

12 MAR/APR 2023 EDIBLE VANCOUVER ISLAND

Opposite page: A foraged appetizer served at the De L’ile restaurant and bakery in Qualicum Beach. This page, clockwise from top left: a chanterelle mushroom hiding in a mossy area on the west coast; Benjamin Patarin of Forest for Dinner leads a foraging tour through the forests surrounding the Spider Lake area; Milena Ficza and Will Cook prepare foraged appetizers for their restaurant and bakery, De L’ile.

areas and don appropriate clothing for the season—as it’s Vancouver Island, always be prepared for rain. A stiff paint brush to clean off mushrooms as you pick them can also be handy and save you work when you get home. Horner also notes that mushroom picking can be very dangerous, claiming the lives of B.C. foragers every year, so it’s vital to let someone know where you will be foraging, as it’s easy to get lost or injured while your head is down searching for mushrooms. And finally, bring a knife—an X-Acto knife, pocket knife or fileting knife, but the thinner the blade the better. “A thin blade makes a nicer cut,” says Patarin. “If your knife is thicker, the cut won’t be as nice, and the mushroom won’t store as long because it kind of bruises them.” And as far as cutting mushrooms or pulling them, you can be confident that you’re not hurting the environment or their ability to reproduce in the area. There is no difference between cutting a mushroom or pulling it out, both Horner and Patarin confirm. However, it is important to be respectful of the environment when you’re foraging. Don’t rip up moss in your search or disturb the natural environment any more than necessary, and pack out all the garbage and items you bring into the forest. Also be aware of the area you are foraging in; stay away from polluted areas and private property. It’s also a respected

understanding between mushroom pickers not to pick every mushroom you find in a patch; just take what you need and leave some for others to find on their hunt. Look for second-growth Douglas Fir trees with moss for promising mushroom haunts, but stay away from the sword ferns, says Horner. Some mushrooms grow under the moss, which is where the real hunt begins, but don’t tear up the moss in your search—gently feel around and respect the area as you harvest. And don’t be fooled into thinking mushroom season only occurs during a few weeks in the fall. “Depending on the year, there can be mushrooms growing from March to December,” Patarin says. Horner also says: “When you find promising ground, move very slowly. You are not hiking, you are hunting.” And if you find yourself soaking wet and freezing cold after hunting for mushrooms for hours without luck, Horner has a secret—a few magic words that he’s sure will turn things around, but you have to really mean them. “That’s when you say the magic words: ‘I hate this. I want to go home.’ And that’s when you’ll suddenly find what you seek!”

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14 MAR/APR 2023 EDIBLE VANCOUVER ISLAND

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Chef Jade Berg Foraging and feast ing in the wilds of Bri t i sh Columbi a WORDS CAMILLA SAMPSON PHOTOS BROOKE APSHKRUM

16 MAR/APR 2023 EDIBLE VANCOUVER ISLAND

E D I B L E P R O F I L E

“Everything for me is about connection—family, food, the land around us —it’s the biggest part of what I do.” –Jade Berg

Disney+’s show Chef vs. Wild featured Jade Berg out in the wilds of coastal British Columbia competing against another world-class chef to cook a winning five star meal (and survive) from only foraged ingredients. Despite initially suspecting the Instagrammessage from producers a scam (as it came amid a cooking career hiatus with no end date, due to an injury in 2018), his time on the show became transformational—a reflection of his passion for seasonal and uncultivated ingredients, and the catalyst for his business Wild Isle (wildislecooking.com). the day-long drive to his grandfather’s Saskatoon cabin. It was a trip he looked forward to all year, and the location of some of his first memories of wild foods, where his grandfather taught him how to fish and hunt. It fostered an ethos of deep connection to land and has stuck with Berg since. “Everything for me is about connection—family, food, the land around us—it’s the biggest part of what I do.” Berg began his culinary career when a friend suggested they chef together at a local hotel. Berg loved the atmosphere—“the camaraderie of the kitchen, there were pranks—they lit me on fire once!”. But after the recession hit in 2008, the West Coast beckoned with rich memories of visits to Haida Gwaii and Prince Rupert at ages 12 and 14, admiring colourful houses on the water, sighting whales from the ferry, combing the beach for sea glass and other treasures. At age 18, with just $100 in his pocket, no home and no job, Berg told his parents he was “moving to Vancouver at the end of the week.” The first two nights in Vancouver, Berg slept on a park bench. A job at a tailors, on top of an eight-hour shift at one restaurant and 12 hours at another, was exchanged for paying off a suit for job interviews. A grueling, less than-romantic start to big city life. But there’s a deep, unwavering determination in Berg matched with a curiosity to seek more from life. CHEF VS . WI LD It’s part of what led him to move to Vancouver Island— seeking something greener and richer for his partner and their first child, starting with a stint at Strathcona Park Lodge, and going on to work at a myriad of the A CUR I OUS COOK Berg grew up in Southern Alberta, and he remembers

Islands’ smaller lodges and private residences. And it’s this attitude that no doubt got him through Chef vs. Wild’s taxing conditions. “What a lot of people don’t realize on the show is that I was having to decide whether to use ingredients we found in the dish or eat themmyself—we were surviving on something like 100 calories a day.” He subsisted on and cooked with ingredients like mushrooms, seaweed, reindeer moss, liquorice fern, hemlock needles and wild yarrow. But the positives outweighed the harsh conditions. On the tail end of a self-identity crisis sparked by the injury that folded into the pandemic and depression, he found the show to be transformative. “[It was] the first time in years that I felt alive. It was so miserable, but I could feel all the good and the bad. And I just thought, if I can make it through this…” THE WI LD I SLE Alongside hunting trips with his children, the show was the catalyst for a renewed sense of passion and reevaluation of his connection to wild places and foraged foods. “I came home, got a new business license, and jumped in in June 2022. I realized all these places I’d been camping for years, I’d never really looked down to see all these wild foods.” For Berg, “Food is about an experience—a universal language.” A belief that has led him to focus more on education since: “I want to introduce people to these ingredients, keep it intentional and simple—you don’t need all the fancy things, just your hands and the ability to be creative.” Wild Isle originally focused on cooking classes. But Berg is adding foraging courses and wanting to bridge the gap between hunting and cheffing. “I want to elevate what’s all around us, offer an opportunity for more food security and a reason to preserve the environment. People need to find a reason to care, to feel connected, and nature as a food source is one way I can encourage that.” Berg continues to guide folks on wild food adventures and also chefs privately in Canada and overseas. An enriching life in the wild that is rooted in his purpose of food and connection. “If I can make a living walking in the woods, inspiring others? I’m so game.” Camilla Sampson is a storyteller based in Campbell River who is drawn to wild foods as a means of further connection to land and sea. @millysampson; www.camillasampson.com

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E D I B L E P R O F I L E R E C I P E

RECIPE JADE BERG PHOTO BROOKE APSHKRUM

18 MAR/APR 2023 EDIBLE VANCOUVER ISLAND

S H O R E L I N E C H O W D E R

A walk on the beach is a fun way to collect some of the ingredients for this chowder. But with any shellfish foraging, make sure you have a valid saltwater license and check for any shellfish harvesting closures.

When browsing the shoreline at low tide for mussels, don’t forget to check the mossy bluffs for nodding onion, a fantastic addition to the soup—and the added scavenger hunt is fun for the whole family. I also like to find varnish clams as they are an invasive species, and what better way to try and manage them than to eat them! And if you’re foraging clams, research how to purge them properly so you don’t get sand and grit in your chowder. I tend to make my own fish broth using bones from the fish we catch and fillet, but store bought stock or clam nectar will work just as well. (I use a combo of chicken stock and fish stock, but a recipe is just a guideline—your job as the cook is to add personal flair to make it your own!) Instead of using all 4 bay leaves, try using 2 bay leaves and 2 salal leaves for more flavours from the wild. Also, if the recipe is not as thick as you would like, make a roux off to the side: combine equal parts melted butter and flour in a hot pan until it has the consistency of wet sand, and cook for 1–2 min. Then whisk it into the chowder one tablespoon at a time before adding fish until it is as thick as you would like.

M E T H O D In a large Dutch oven or stock pot, melt butter on medium–high heat. Add celery, carrots, onion, fennel, leeks, and saute until vegetables have softened. Add garlic and nodding onion, then cook for a couple more minutes, while stirring, until softened. Add flour and fresh thyme and stir to completely mix; it should combine fully with the butter. Deglaze pan with your white wine and cook for 1–2 minutes—it should thicken considerably. Add your stock, bay/salal leaves, potato, Old Bay spice, and bring to a boil. Then reduce heat and cook, stirring occasionally for 10–15 minutes, until potato has softened. In a separate pan, steammussels and clams with a splash of white wine until they open, making sure to reserve all the liquid. Discard any that do not fully open. Once potatoes are soft, add steamed mussels and clams and the liquid to the pot. Add cream and bring up to a simmer for another 5–10 min. Adjust seasoning to taste. A squeeze of lemon is never a bad idea for some acidity. When ready to serve, add all cubed fish and prawns to simmer for only a couple of minutes (they cook fast). Once seafood has simmered for a couple of minutes, pour into a bowl and garnish with flake salt, fennel fronds, and some sautéed sliced leeks. Serve with some toasted bread to get every last bit out of the bowl! In the spring, the nodding onions have beautiful flowers to use for a garnish!

⅓ cup butter 1 cup diced celery 1 cup rinsed and thinly sliced leeks ½ cup diced white onion ¼ cup diced fennel ½ cup sliced nodding onion (plus 1 Tbsp thinly sliced for topping) 3 Tbsp minced or crushed garlic ⅓ cup flour

I N G R E D I E N T S

2 sprigs fresh thyme 1½ cups fish stock 1½ cups chicken stock ¼ cup 40 Knots Winery Uncloaked Chardonnay 5 baby potatoes, diced in ½-inch cubes ¾ cup carrots diced 4 bay leaves (or salal leaves) 1 tsp Old Bay seasoning 1 lb mussels, in the shell 1 dozen shucked oysters 1 lb of clams steamed and removed from shell 1 lb spot prawns 1½ lbs any local fish cut into cubes

½ cup corn cut off the cob 2 litres half and half cream 1 cup whole milk salt and pepper to taste Vancouver Island flake salt for finishing fresh fennel frond or dill for garnish

ediblevancouverisland.com 19

Chef ’s Table Series at Black Rock Oceanfront Resort BLACK ROCK RESORT

Black Rock Oceanfront Resort is a stunning re treat, perched on the edge of Vancouver Island’s dramatic west coast. Known worldwide for its breathtaking location and its luxurious Drift Spa, the resort also o ers an incredible destina tion dining experience at Currents Restaurant. Every season and every day delivers a captivat ing natural show—from storm watching to memorable summer sunsets. Black Rock Oceanfront Resort has introduced a Chef ’s Table Series for 2023 to showcase west coast cuisine and premium wines, beers and spirits. Each event will feature a customized menu with unforgettable pairings. February 22nd will feature Sheringham Distillery, while the event in March will display wines from Church & State Winery. On April 26th, im bibe beer from Vancouver Island Brewing, and on May 24th, enjoy your meal paired with se lections from French Door Winery. With over three-quarters of the wines on their menu local to B.C., the team at Currents Res taurant are experts at pairing local libations with west coast fare. David Tombs, the talented chef behind the seasonally changing menu, loves collaborating with wineries, craft brew

ers and distillers in the province. “We give our guests an experience that really leaves them with a unique, time-and-place-specific food and beverage experience,” he explains. Truly, each Chef ’s Table event (and each visit to the resort) will surprise guests with unique dining experiences. Tombs is constantly de veloping new techniques, avour pairings and creative dishes that can be catered to a guest’s speci c taste. e menu changes each month to highlight local products when they are in sea son, which means each dish is packed full of avour, colour and nutrition. With 20 years’ experience as a chef, Tombs has perfected his craft while working coast to coast, from Vancouver to Montreal to St. John’s. He has always been passionate about working with local producers and fostering collaborative rela tionships with Canadian farmers, ranchers and artisans. He brings this same passion for farm to-table cuisine to Currents Restaurant and Big Beach Lounge, with food that exquisitely re ects the ambiance of the location—relaxed yet re ned, and in beautiful harmony with the incredible nature that surrounds the oceanside resort.

SPONSORED BY blackrockresort.com

20 MAR/APR 2023 EDIBLE VANCOUVER ISLAND

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Blue Heron Advisory Group 730 View Street, 6 th floor, Victoria, BC V8W 1J8 250 361-2284 • 1 800 561-5864 blueheronadvisorygroup@cibc.ca • www.blueherongroup.ca CIBC PrivateWealth consists of services provided by CIBC and certain of its subsidiaries, including CIBCWood Gundy, a division of CIBCWorldMarkets Inc. The CIBC logo and “CIBC PrivateWealth” are trademarks of CIBC, used under license. “WoodGundy” is a registered trademark of CIBCWorldMarkets Inc. This information, including any opinion, is based on various sources believed to be reliable, but its accuracy cannot be guaranteed and is subject to change. CIBC and CIBCWorldMarkets Inc., their affiliates, directors, officers and employeesmay buy, sell, or hold a position in securities of a companymentioned herein, its affiliates or subsidiaries, andmay also performfinancial advisory services, investment banking or other services for, or have lending or other credit relationshipswith the same. CIBCWorldMarkets Inc. and its representativeswill receive sales commissions and/or a spread between bid and ask prices if you purchase, sell or hold the securities referred to above. ©CIBCWorldMarkets Inc. 2022. Graham Isenegger andNeil Chappell are Investment Advisorswith CIBCWoodGundy inVictoria, BC. The views of Graham Isenegger andNeil Chappell do not necessarily reflect those of CIBCWorldMarkets Inc. If you are currently a CIBCWoodGundy client, please contact your Investment Advisor.

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ediblevancouverisland.com 21

CHEERS!

Women owned artisan bakery specializing in slow fermented, small batch sourdough bread and pastries using organic Canadian flour. Wholesale and retail.

Nothing complicated, nothing fancy. Just tried and tested farmer-friendly beers, from our family to yours. Visit our family and pet friendly seasonal picnic patio.

250.898.3304 www.honeygrovebakery.ca #4, 2441 Cousins Ave, Courtenay, BC

2046 Boxwood Road Nanaimo, BC www.longwoodbeer.com

22 MAR/APR 2023 EDIBLE VANCOUVER ISLAND

Are you looking for someone who picks up the phone when you call and drives your important matters forward with the detail to attention they need and deserve? L ianne Macdonald

Shop something different...

Lianne is an owner at Beacon Law. You can find her at all three offices in Sidney, Brentwood Bay, and Royal Oak. She acts for Executors of Estates who need probate or administration services. She guides Executors through the process with empathy and kindness, making an otherwise stressful event in one’s life completely the opposite. Lianne loves nature, the ocean, gardening, and taking the time to prepare beautiful meals with great friends. She wants to congratulate Karen on an amazing issue of Edible last month! Beacon Law Centre | 250-656-3280 | www.beaconlaw.ca

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4824 Johnston Road, Port Alberni BC V9Y7L8 250-720-0900 barebonesfishhouse.ca

ediblevancouverisland.com 23

C U R R E N T C R A V I N G S

B.C. EGGS OFFER WORLD-CLASS QUALITY, CONVENIENT NUTRITION AND ENDLESS POSSIBILITIES

WORDS, PHOTOS + RECIPE HEIDI RICHTER

From conventional brown and white to heirloom pastels, eggs are prevalent in kitchens across the globe. An integral cog for many recipes, yet sufficient to make a meal in and of themselves, eggs are a nutritious whole food beloved by many, my family included. Come spring, they quickly become the centre of attention, es pecially during Easter festivities—this is a perfect time to get to know them a little better. MORE LABELS, MORE CHOICES Egg consumption is on the rise in Canada, as are the choices. Over the last decade, carton labelling has increased dramatically to reflect the diverse range of eggs available—selections aren’t limited to size and colour any longer. In addition to the omnipres ent Canada Grade A label, Canadians can expect to see the type of egg (housing method), feed, country of origin, supplementary quality assurance labels and other terms such as “omega-3” or “hormone-free”—it can be a tad overwhelming. The Grade A label is important because it indicates that fresh eggs meet the Canadian standards for sale. Buying quality Ca nadian eggs is important to many consumers; however, while many Grade A eggs are, in fact, produced in Canada, this label also applies to imported eggs. Created in 2019, the EQA™ or Egg Quality Assurance™ label makes it easier for consumers to identify eggs that were not only graded but produced in Canada under the country’s world-class standards for quality, food safety and animal welfare. Moreover, hormones (steroids) are not ap proved for use in egg laying hens in Canada; any labelling to this effect is redundant. TYPES AND THE GROWING DEMAND FOR CAGE FREE There are five types of eggs commercially available, and each type refers to the housing method: conventional caged, enriched, free run, free-range and organic. How the hens are housed is a grow ing concern, specifically for British Columbians. More and more consumers in the province are demanding cage-free varieties (free-run, free-range and organic) and, consequently, British Co lumbia now leads the nation in cage-free production. B.C. is also the only province to set strict, mandatory standards for free-range producers—hens are not only provided indoor nesting sites, but quality access to the outdoors for a minimum of six hours a day. Organic eggs are always my number one choice, though—hens from organic farms are provided even more space to roam and fed a certified organic diet; they are never given antibiotics. Approximately 10% of B.C.’s egg farms are located on Vancouver

Island, with the majority of Island-produced eggs sold under the name Island Gold. Island Gold varieties are available province wide, which includes conventional and cage-free varieties, includ ing organic. NUTRITION, TASTE & LONGEVITY Regardless of shell or yolk colour or how the hens are raised, the taste, texture and nutritional value of eggs remains relatively consistent (unless the feed has been enriched with vitamins or omega-3—these eggs are labelled accordingly). Eggs are high in protein and contain vitamins A, D, E, B12, folate, selenium, iron, along with choline, lutein and zeaxanthin. The exception in the taste and texture category may be the handsomely coloured heir loom eggs, which can have larger, more unctuous tasting yolks, according to some. However, heirloom eggs are largely ungraded and therefore not available commercially. To maintain freshness and quality, eggs should be stored in the coldest part of the refrigerator and used by the best before date. Because eggshells are porous and fragile, keep them in the origi nal carton to reduce odour absorption and prevent breakage. And always discard cracked or broken eggs. A MYRIAD OF USES While the industry has changed over time, what hasn’t changed is the versatility eggs provide—there is always a new recipe to try or a fresh way to enjoy them. They pair beautifully with almost any ingredient from fresh or cooked greens, mushrooms, toma toes, non-sweet fruits and herbs to meats, cheeses, pesto or grains. Eggs create the necessary base for luxurious confections like flan, pavlova, brioche or soufflé and no millennial brunch-fest would be complete without a jammy poached egg on toasted sourdough. With a diverse array of uses, eggs should never be reserved solely for breakfast; shakshuka or frittatas for dinner are perfectly ac ceptable and hard boiled eggs make a convenient mid-afternoon bite. A cherished recipe I make this time of year is a sweet scrambled pancake from Austria known as kaiserschmarrn—a fluffy egg batter, cooked until golden and sprinkled with pow dered sugar. Served alongside fresh fruit, purées or compotes, kaiserschmarrn is entirely too easy to whip up for a light brunch or dessert this season.

Heidi Richter is a Nanaimo-based recipe developer and food photographer with a particular fondness for hard-to-pronounce European recipes. thesimplegreen.com

BC Egg Farmers bcegg.com | Island Eggs islandeggs.com | Egg Quality Assurance Program eggquality.ca | Egg Farmers of Canada eggfarmers.ca

24 MAR/APR 2023 EDIBLE VANCOUVER ISLAND

An Egg-cellent Choice

ediblevancouverisland.com 25

K A I S E R S C H M A R R N ( A U S T R I A N E G G P A N C A K E S )

Sometimes referred to as “torn pancakes” or “Emperor’s mess,” kaiserschmarrn is a popular Austrian dish reminiscent of sweet scrambled eggs, pancakes or French toast. Served alongside fresh fruit, compote or purée, this recipe is perfect for brunch, dessert or an Easter celebration. Raisins are optional. Prep time 10 minutes Cook Time 15 min Serves 4

M E T H O D If using, combine in a small bowl the raisins and enough rum to cover. Let soak while preparing the remainder of the recipe. Melt two tablespoons of the butter and set aside. In the bowl of a stand mixer, beat the egg whites and salt until soft peaks form (about 2 minutes). Set aside. In a large bowl, beat together the egg yolks, melted butter and sugar until combined. Beat in the flour and milk in two additions, alternating between each and stopping to scrape down the sides as necessary. Beat in the vanilla. Using a rubber spatula, gently fold the beaten egg whites into the egg yolk mixture until evenly combined, taking care not to overmix and deflate the batter. Drain the raisins, if using, and set aside. Heat the remaining two tablespoons of butter in a 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Give the pan a swirl to evenly coat with butter. Add the batter to the pan and cook until the bottom becomes golden brown (about 6–8 minutes; if using raisins, sprinkle them evenly over the batter after 2–3 minutes of cooking time). Use a spatula to gently lift a side to check for browning on the bottom. Once the bottom is nicely golden, divide the pancake into quarters with the spatula and flip over each section (don’t worry if it breaks or gets messy). Continue frying for another 2–3 minutes or until golden (add more butter to the pan if needed). Reduce the heat and using the spatula (or two forks), cut the pancake into bit sized pieces. Give the pieces a quick toss in the pan to make sure everything is cooked evenly. Remove from the heat and transfer the kaiserschmarrn to a serving dish. Dust with confectioners’ sugar and serve warm with a side of fresh fruit, compote or purée.

i n g r e d i e n t s

4 large eggs, divided into whites and yolks 1 pinch salt 4 Tbsp unsalted butter, divided in half

4 Tbsp granulated sugar ¾ cup all purpose flour ½ cup whole or 2% milk 1 tsp vanilla extract O p t i o n a l ¼ cup raisins soaked in dark rum F o r s e r v i n g confectioners’ sugar for dusting fresh fruit, compote or purée

26 MAR/APR 2023 EDIBLE VANCOUVER ISLAND

E D I B L E G U I D E

A spoonful of honey

ILLUSTRATION ROSE COWLES

HONEY PRODUCERS ACROSS THE ISLAND

On toast, in tea, as a drizzling nish or a primary ingredient–honey adds a natural sweetness to food and drink alike. It’s a hard-earned product of our friends the bees, the only insect that makes food for humans. ese fuzzy little yers zip around at up to 30 kilometers per hour, apping their wings over 200 times per second. During one collection trip alone, a bee will visit 50-100 owers–and it takes about two million ower visits to make just a pound of honey. But for the bee, a pound of honey is a lot; just an ounce of the sweet gold would fuel one bee on a trip around the entire world. Vancouver Island has many honey producers who are working with and caring for the bees to create honey we can all enjoy, no matter our preference, from avoured varieties to classic tastes.

Babe’s Honey Farm babes-honey-farm.com Big D’s Bees bigdsbees.com Country Bee Honey countrybeehoney.ca Flying Dutchman yingdutchman-bees.com Fredrich’s Honey fredrichshoney.com Island Bees islandbees.ca Nielsen’s Honey facebook.com/nielsenshoney Queen Bee Farms & Apiary qbfarms.ca e MacInnis Honey Co. facebook.com/themacinnishoneyco

ediblevancouverisland.com 27

28 MAR/APR 2023 EDIBLE VANCOUVER ISLAND

I S L A N D T R E A S U R E

Beekeeping 101 HOW TO PREPARE FOR YOUR FIRST HIVE

WORDS RICK JANZEN

I have to admit that I came to beekeeping in a backwards fash ion. At age 55, a friend asked me if I had ever considered bee keeping. At the time, my wife Judy and I had discussed it sev eral times without making any firm plans. I told my friend this, and he asked if I wanted his equipment, as he had tried it for a few years and then given up on it. Thus, I found myself parked in front of his barn the following Saturday with my pickup truck, loading boxes, frames of comb, spinners, bee suits and other para phernalia into the box of the truck. Did I know what I was getting into? No! But I was determined to learn. The first two things I did determined my eventual suc cess in this fascinating endeavor. First, I contacted the local bee inspector. B.C. has apiculture inspectors assigned to various areas in the province to oversee this area of agriculture, as bee health is crucial to the agricultural economy. After coming over to view the equipment, she assured me that it was in good order, free of the various diseases and fungi that can decimate bee colonies. Had the result of this inspection been otherwise, I would have had to burn or destroy all the boxes and frames. (In future, I would have the inspector view equipment before picking it up!) Next, Judy and I joined the local bee club. We did this before purchasing any bees—in fact, it was approximately a year before we got our first bees. Many communities have local beekeeping clubs who educate and inform the members and the wider public about beekeeping issues and news. Our club also had a library for members, and we took out a few books to read during the year to supplement our learning. In addition, the club offered a mentorship program where more experienced beekeepers would walk alongside the newbies. The club also sponsored the occa sional course for new beekeepers, and this too was well worth the time and money. The learning curve is very steep and without the proper guidance, a new keeper can kill a lot of bees without much effort. (This is what happened to my friend, and it is how I ended up with his equipment.) As a side note, we were forewarned about the hazards of relying on YouTube or other online sources of learning. While the infor mation there is not egregious, and is provided in large part with good intent, it is also very geo-specific. Beekeeping in Florida is often quite different from what is needed in B.C. There are a lot of sources of online learning, and without local knowledge it can be confusing to sift through it all. My advice: learn from some one local, read books and talk to local beekeepers. Then find out which videos or online sites are providing the best and most rel evant information.

Now it was time to buy some bees! Bees are living creatures and are susceptible to a variety of ills. Buy the wrong bees and at best you have an uphill battle; at worst, you will have spent a couple of hundred dollars on bees that will just die. The local inspector and club can be a lifesaver in preventing all sorts of grief. A reputable bee seller will be known to the local beekeeping community and have a certificate of health from the local inspector. When you ask to see the certificate of health, take note of the date. It needs to be current; last year’s certificate is useless. Also, most bee sellers are now asking questions of the buyers. They want to ensure that their bees are going to keepers who have some idea of what they are doing, so you need to be thoughtful and intentional. There are a few different ways that bees are sold. The most com mon is to buy a nucleus of a hive—a nuc (pronounced nuke), for short. It consists of a few frames of brood and food, a queen and a few thousand workers. The second most common way is to buy a package, which is basically a box with a queen, several hun dred workers and some food. No frames are included. So to buy a package, you really need to have equipment ready for them— frames with a drawn out comb, a complete hive box and food prepared to give them. The least common, and most expensive way, is to buy a complete hive. Note that beekeepers will not always have excess bees to sell. This often depends on their winter losses, and their own goals for the year. Thus, some years it is hard to find bees to buy, while other years there may be an abundance of sellers. What benefits will you reap from your hard work and prepara tion? We planted a cherry tree twenty years ago, and up until we got our first bees, our best harvests had been about 40 pounds of cherries. The year we got our first bees, that harvest jumped to 150 pounds with at least another 60 pounds on the upper branch es we couldn’t reach. Given the right weather conditions, this is also what has happened to our other fruits. Then, of course, there is the honey harvest, when you get to taste the nectar of your own area. And finally, there are the more aesthetic pleasures. There is something serenely pleasant about hearing the hum of your bees working the raspberry patch, or just watching a hive work on a warm spring day as you enjoy your cup of coffee. It’s at times like these that I think I may have gotten this beekeeping thing the right way around.

Rick Janzen is a retired schoolteacher residing in the Comox Valley. He is a father, and a grandfather to four beautiful granddaughters. Rick is also a UBC certified Master Beekeeper.

Resources

Comox Valley Bee Club cvbclub.com Nanaimo Beekeepers nanaimobeekeepers.com Victoria Beekeepers capitalregionbeekeepers.ca

Cowichan Beekeepers cowichanbeekeepers.ca

B.C. Government Apiculture

www2.gov.bc.ca/gov/content/industry/agriculture-seafood/animals-and-crops/animal-production/bees

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