Edible Vancouver Island Jan/Feb 2023

I S L A N D T R E A S U R E

The resurgence of small dairy

WORDS TERRI POTRATZ

B.C. dairy producers face complex regulations and lengthy approval processes in order to deliver safe products to the public. Few industries can compare to the kind of red tape that dairy farmers must adhere to, and while the laws are designed to ensure pathogens don’t find their way into commercially sold milk, intense regulation can often leave small-scale farmers with shrinking profit margins. Many independent dairy farmers have found themselves unable to innovate and diversify their business within the parameters of such strict regulations. But that tide is beginning to change, with Vancouver Island starting to see the return of small-scale dairy farmers with new busi ness models. This shift from monolithic milk distribution back to regional farms can’t come soon enough for the communities who want to improve their local food resiliency and support nearby agriculture. SH I FT I NG MI LK MI NDSETS Of the few benefits of COVID-19, one was a big return to the focus on local: when non-critical shops shuttered during the height of the pandemic, more people sought out the services of nearby farms and food producers to keep their pantries stocked. Businesses that were able to shift to online or self-serve models flourished in the face of store closures, and the agility of the Cowichan Milk Company is no exception. This family farm manages a herd of 50 Holstein cows, grass-fed for most of the year with grains and alfalfa to supplement as needed. The vanBovens were originally selling all of their milk to Island Farms, but had a vision to bring back bottle service by rebooting home milk delivery.

On this page: Guernsey cow, photo by Dorota Lockyer

26 JAN/FEB 2023 EDIBLE VANCOUVER ISLAND