Edible Vancouver Island Jan/Feb 2023

I have a complicated relationship with winter. I love cool, crisp morning hikes, curling up in front of the re with a good book, making delicious comfort dishes and lighting a dozen candles and soaking in a hot bath. I don’t even mind putting away the holiday decorations and switching up the Christmas décor to a West Coast winter vibe. I love when the hellebores bloom and the snowdrops start to burst out of the ground. But what I struggle with is this feeling of loneliness that comes over me like a dark blanket after the holidays. My daughter and her family are back home in Australia, my son and his girlfriend are back at university on the mainland, all my friends are on diets or holidays and no one wants to play!

PUBLISHER + EDITOR IN CHIEF Karen Elgersma

ART DIRECTOR Danika McDowell EDITOR

Danielle Steiner COPY EDITOR Trish Weatherall SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER Jenny Leung PHOTOGRAPHERS Danika McDowell Heidi Richter Janis Jean Sabrina Currie Shane Yakelashek AD DESIGN Leanne Von Hollen ADVERTISING Andrew Spark Dawn Postniko Peggie Terry ediblevancouverisland.com/advertise CONTACT US 140-4392 West Saanich Road Victoria, BC, V8Z 3E9 editor@ediblevancouverisland.com TO SUBSCRIBE Visit us online at ediblevancouverisland.com Edible Vancouver Island is published six times a year. Subscription rate is $42 CAD annually. LETTERS We welcome your feedback. To write to the editor, use the address above or, for the quickest response, email: editor@ediblevancouverisland.com

is year I am determined to do winter di erently. I am lling my bedside table with inspiring books like Denise Marchessault and Deb Garlick’s beautiful new book, e Artful Pie Project ( nd a recipe on page 10). I am going to try a new pie recipe each week during the winter months and convince my friends to break their diets and come over for a game night paired with warm homemade pie. I’m also excited about planning our annual Red Dinner (page 16). Plus, this year I am going to take the time to write Valentines to all those I love. And after having interviewed the inspiring chocolatier and artist John Down, founder of Christopher Norman Chocolates, for this issue (page 34), I’m also going to pair the cards with beautiful Christopher Norman chocolate treats. But the very rst dreamy thing I am going to do in 2023 to combat my winter melancholy is plan a mini local vacation. After reading Dawn Postniko ’s story (page 20), I am inspired to combine my love of cooking with my passion for adventure and have a holiday lled with local culinary treats. is escape will include stops at local craft breweries to experience some unique winter ales and discover a few new beers. Joe Wiebe’s article (page 42) on our craft beer evolution pairs beautifully with a local ale. We hope this winter brings you the gift of time–time to learn a new recipe, create a fun tradition, plan a weekend escape, read a good book or discover a new place to enjoy a winter walk on this magical Island we are lucky enough to call home.

Edible Vancouver Island magazine is published six times per year by Karen Elgersma Media INC. 140-4392 West Saanich Road, Victoria, BC V8Z 3E9

Karen Elgersma

No part of these publications may be reproduced in any form without the written permission of the publisher. Every e ort is made to avoid errors and omissions. If you notice an error, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us. © 2023. All rights reserved.

“You hang up your coat, tug off your boots and light the fire. You will probably put the kettle on or pour yourself a drink. Not so much as a way to get warm, more to welcome yourself home. Home means more to us in cold weather. Making ourselves comfortable is a duty. Making friends and family comfortable is an art.” ~ Nigel Slater

Printed in the U.S.

We Deliver! Subscribe at ediblevancouverisland.com to have copies delivered right to your door. Check out our website and follow us on social media @EdibleVanIsle for up-to-date events, recipes and news from the food and drink community of Vancouver Island, the Gulf Islands and the surrounding areas.

On the cover: Christopher Norman Chocolates—story on page 34 . Photo by Danika McDowell.

Unwind in the comforts of sidney's coastal charm Situated at the shore of the Salish Sea, Sidney’s historic and vibrant downtown district is the heart of the Saanich Peninsula. Locally owned storefronts, coffee shops, eateries, and more offer unique and memorable opportunities year round.

Visit ExploreSidney.ca to plan your visit today

J A N / F E B 2 0 2 3 CON T EN T S No. 19

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we l c ome l e t t e r

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E D I B L E P R O F I L E Edible Works of Art by Karen Elgersma

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F I E L D NO T E S edible news + notes worth sharing

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C U L I NARY S C I E NC E Smell to Taste by Liisa Salo

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I N T H E GARD E N The Winter Gardener by Sabrina Currie L O C A L L I BAT I ONS Craft Beer Evolution by Joe Wiebe

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I S L AND PAN T RY

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I N S E A S ON Classic Tarte Tatin by Denise Marchessault

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C E L E BRAT I ONS Red Dinner by Karen Elgersma

RECIPES IN THIS ISSUE 10 Classic Tarte Tatin 22 Beet Rancheros with Black Rice and Chipotle Cream 32 Tarka Dal 40 Pan-Roasted Cauliflower with Gremolata 46 Breakfast on Island Time 47 Wit’s End Cocktail

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E D I B L E R OAD T R I P A Romantic Road Trip by Dawn Postnikoff I S L AND T R E A S U R E Milk Made by Terri Potratz

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C U RR E N T C RAV I NG S Curry by Heidi Richter

ON THIS PAGE: Pan-Roasted Cauliflower Steaks. Photo By Sabrina Currie.

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C O N T R I B U T O R S

dawn postnikoff is a food writer and restaurateur who loves to share her passion for coastal living and the local food culture with the Edible community. She is co-founder of Edible Vancouver Island and co-author of Island Eats: Signature Chefs’ Recipes from Vancouver Island and the Salish Sea.

heidi richter is a Nanaimo-based food photographer and recipe developer. She fuels her passion for food, gardening and photography with matcha tea and toasted sourdough bread. thesimplegreen.com; IG @the_simple_green

joe wiebe is a co-founder and Beer Director of Victoria Beer Week and the BC Ale Trail where he is the Content Manager. He is the author of Craft Beer Revolution: The Insider’s Guide to B.C. Breweries (2013 & 2015) and frequently judges beer competitions. thirstywriter.com IG @thirstywriter

karen elgersma is an award-winning journalist who has a passion for telling the stories of the farmers, chefs, artisans, growers, wine makers and producers of Vancouver Island and the Gulf Islands. karenelgersmamedia.com

liisa salo is an editor and writer living in Victoria, B.C. Aside from cooking and enjoying Victoria’s amazing restaurants, her passions are holistic health, interior design and marketing. markmywordsediting.ca

sabrina currie loves cooking, growing food and drinking wine. She creates simple, vibrant recipes utilizing fresh produce from her garden and the surrounding farms, forests and ocean. Recipes at sabrinacurrie.com ; shop at westcoastkitchengarden.com

terri potratz is a writer and editor on Salt Spring Island. She is the founder of Paper Covers Rock, an annual readers and writers festival. You can find her work at terripotratz.com and festival details at papercoversrock.ca

4 JAN/FEB 2023 EDIBLE VANCOUVER ISLAND

edible news + notes worth sharing eld notes

new places + spaces >> Port Alice has a new “fast food” takeout truck called McWilkie’s Fast

>> On Galiano Island, there’s a new restaurant called Lola at Bodega Ridge , a south-east Asian inspired seafood restau rant. ey serve locally caught Penelakut seafood and local island produce, and the menu is written in a blend of Tagalog and English. Expect family style/sharing plates with bright, surprising avours and a focus on re-forged ingredients. cool news

Food . Order up some cod and chips or a burger with poutine at their Port Alice Marina Location.

>> Gold River residents no longer have to make the long drive to Campbell River to get their groceries. After six years without a grocery store, the town can now do their weekly shopping at the much more convenient Gold River Village Co-op Store. >> In Campbell River, More Eatery has been o ering guided virtual dinner parties and ready-to-go dinner drop-boxes since 2020. But now they have found a permanent place to call home and will be opening a restaurant at Dukes in Campbellton.

>> Can you imagine—a cheese vending machine? Dreams do come true at the Cowichan Station Creamery in Duncan, who have a vending machine full of cheese ranging in size (150 to 450 grams) and price ($7 to $15).

>> A recent study by time2play has found that British Columbians drink the most co ee when compared with other provinces, at an impressive 1.7 cups per day. We suggest trying local Island roasters next time you’re looking for a ca eine x, like French Press Co ee Roasters , Mile Zero Co ee Co. or Royston Roasting Co. , to name just a few. >> And according to Meal Kits Canada, Victoria is Canada’s most vegan destination, with 17.85 vegan restaurants per 10,000 people. Check out a few of the local vegan hotspots in town, like Fern Cafe & Bakery , Virtuous Pie and Be Love . >> Did you know that Edible Vancouver Island now publishes six issues per year? More recipes, more stories, more photos! Subscribe to have every issue delivered right to your door at ediblevancouverisland.com/subscribe

>> Re re Kitchen just opened up their second location at 100 Aldersmith Place in View Royal. All their

gourmet, fully prepared dishes are designed to “take and bake” in the comfort of your kitchen.

We update our Edible News + Notes online monthly. Check ediblevancouverisland.com and fol low @EdibleVanIsle on social media

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current faves + new nds island pantry

AT CHRISTOPHER NORMAN we love to discover creative new ways to reinvent chocolate through visual appeal and taste. Our assortment of chocolate boxes, bars, vegan, and animal chocolates are perfect to celebrate Valentine’s Day with your loved one. Order your favourites online at cnchocolates.com or nd them at the The Market Garden in Victoria. cnchocolates.com @christophernormanchocolates CIRCLE CANNING is Victoria’s beloved artisan preserver. Founded by noted chef Paige Robinson, Circle Canning uses locally grown produce to create a beguiling array of sauces, relishes, pickles, salsas, jams and chutneys. Many of these recipes hail from Paige’s days as owner of Camille’s Restaurant. Find them now at the Victoria Public Market and online at shop.chocolateproject.ca/collections/circle-canning AT FOREST FOR DINNER , we forage food from the wilds of Vancouver Island. Elevate your dish with a dash of our avoured wild salts or sweeten up those drinks with the delicate aroma of our Nootka rose petal sugar or Sitka Spruce one. Sweet tooth or savoury lovers, we got something special for everyone. Find our large selection of wild food delicacies online at forestfordinner.ca or at selected retailers across the island. NATURAL PASTURES This unique Paci c Wild re Verdelait from Natural Pasture’s Cheese Company uses locally grown habanero peppers balanced with a hint of cheddar, raclette, and gouda. It is then nished with a touch of black pepper to accentuate the bold smokiness and bring out the avour of the peppers. Find it at our storefront in Courtenay and at our local retailers. Learn more at NaturalPastures.com | @NaturalPasturesCheese

S P O N S O R E D C O N T E N T

6 JAN/FEB 2023 EDIBLE VANCOUVER ISLAND

ediblevancouverisland.com 7

Kelvin Scheuer

Kelvin is a lawyer with Beacon Law Centre and has provided legal services in the greater Victoria area for over 20 years, assisting people with their real estate transactions, businesses, and estate planning.

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Kelvin welcomes meeting and working with new people. His patience, thoughtfulness, and ability to obtain a good understanding of clients’ needs enables Kelvin to offer quality legal advice that helps his clients realize their goals. In his free time Kelvin enjoys exploring the outdoors with his family and dogs, travelling, hunting and pecking at his piano. A complete evening for Kelvin includes classical music, a full-bodied glass of wine and a gourmet meal. Being a foodie, Kelvin is always keen to discover and enjoy the many great dining experiences Victoria and the Island have to offer. Beacon Law Centre | 250-656-3280 | www.beaconlaw.ca

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has the power to connect people to your purpose. Our purpose is to find the most creative, authentic and strategic way to tell your story and share it with others.

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8 JAN/FEB 2023 EDIBLE VANCOUVER ISLAND

V A N C O U V E R I S L A N D G R O W N Y E L L O W C E D A R G R E E N H O U S E S

I n t e g r i t y . Qu a l i t y . C r a f t s ma n s h i p . R e l a t i o n s h i p .

These are the powerful words that Todd Marzoff uses when describing the legacy of his father’s work that he is determined to continue in his business, Zoff’s Greenhouses.

“Both our businesses are using Zoff’s Greenhouses. These are proving to be great builds and use only the best of local, quality materials. I personally recommend the greenhouses and garden planters to anyone who is interested in growing their own food.” – Craig Murray, Founder Nimmo Bay Resort

Todd’s father, Ken Marzoff started building these masterpieces 40 years ago with the assistance of his mother Joan Marzoff. Coupled with Ken’s skilled craftsmanship and Joan’s keen gardening sense, they created this design which is both beautiful and functional. Custom designed by Todd, todays greenhouses have a critical attention to detail, with the customers requirements in mind, and are built to last.

Vancouver Island owned and operated, using locally grown and custom milled yellow cedar from the North Island.

(250) 230-0085 | info@zoffsgreenhouses.ca zoffsgreenhouses.ca

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RECIPE DENISE MARCHESSAULT PHOTO DEB GARLICK T A R T E T A T I N classic

Tarte Tatin is a French pastry that will appeal to the minimalists in the kitchen. It contains but a few ingredients and a scrap of pastry, yet produces the most extraordinary dessert. The tart is baked with a layer of pastry on top and served upside-down to showcase caramel-soaked apples so tender they melt in your mouth.

This recipe is reprinted with permission from The Artful Pie Project: a Sweet and Savoury Book of Recipes . Follow the creatives behind the cookbook at denisem.ca and debgarlick.com.

I N S E A S O N R E C I P E

Like most recipes that contain only a handful of ingredients, the key to success is in the technique. I’ve made enough Tartes Tatin to know they can be tricky and, although scrumptious, they don’t always turn out picture-perfect the first (or second) time around. One side of the tart might be more caramelized than the other, for example…although it’s nothing a dollop of ice cream can’t hide. Traditionally made with puff pastry (commercial frozen is fine), the tart can also be made with flaky pastry or a shortcrust dough. Given the small amount of dough needed, it’s an ideal recipe for using up leftover pastry. You’ll want to read the instructions through to the end before you start. (Any recipe involving cooked sugar requires your full attention.) Makes one 8-inch (20 cm) tart.

I N G R E D I E N T S F O R P A S T R Y

M E T H O D f o r p a s t r y

6½ oz (185 g) puff pastry, thawed 1 egg, lightly beaten

M E T H O D f o r F I L L I N G If making handcrafted or rough puff pastry, prepare the pastry according to the instructions. If using commercial frozen puff pastry, thaw according to the instructions on the package. Roll the pastry out onto a floured work surface, or a sheet of parchment dusted with flour, until about 1/8 inch (3 mm) thick. Cut the pastry into a 9-inch (23 cm) circle about 1 inch (2.5 cm) wider than the rim of the skillet. Transfer the circle to a plate or tray lined with parchment and dusted with flour. Wrap in plastic and refrigerate until ready to use. Peel, core and halve the apples. Place in a large bowl, toss with lemon juice and set aside. Place the sugar in an 8-inch (20 cm) cast iron skillet and moisten with 3 Tbsp (45 mL) water. Stir until the sugar is evenly moist, adding another teaspoon of water if necessary. Cook over medium heat until the sugar melts and turns a light caramel colour, about 5–8 minutes, tilting and rotating the pan as the sugar colours to help keep it uniform (the edges darken faster than the centre). Stir in the butter, off of the heat. If at any time the caramel becomes grainy just be patient, it will eventually become liquid again. Carefully add the apple halves to the melted sugar, cut-side up. You may have to trim the apples slightly, but expect them to be bunched together rather awkwardly—they will not lie flat at this stage. They shrink as they bake and will eventually fit together snuggly.

I n g r e d i e n t s f o r f i l l i n g

4 medium Granny Smith apples 1 Tbsp (15 mL) freshly squeezed lemon juice ½ cup (125 mL) granulated sugar + extra for the pastry ¼ cup (60 mL) unsalted butter (about 58 g)

S P E C I A L E Q U I P M E N T

8-inch (20 cm) cast iron skillet (measured from the inside), or a heavy-bottomed oven proof skillet

P U T T I N G I T a l l t o g e t h e r

Preheat oven to 425°F (220°C). Cover the apples with the chilled pastry and tuck the edges into the skillet so there is no overhang. (As the apples are not lying flat, the pastry will appear lumpy.) Prick the pastry in several places with a knife or skewer to create small vents. Brush with the lightly beaten egg and dust with about 1½ Tbsp (23 mL) sugar. Place the skillet in the preheated oven and reduce the temperature to 400°F (200°C). Bake for 20–30 minutes or until the pastry is golden and puffed and the apples are soft when pierced with a paring knife. Carefully return the tart to the stove top. Let sit for at least 30 minutes before un-molding. The pastry will deflate during the resting period and the apples will absorb the apple juices and caramel. Using an offset knife or butter knife, lift a small corner of the pastry to check the amount of caramel/apple liquid in the pan. If your apples are still swimming in excess liquid, as sometimes happens, cook the apples over a burner on low heat for a few minutes, just until the liquid bubbles and some of the liquid evaporates. The idea is to have a moist, not runny tart. To unmold, draw a knife around the edges of the skillet to ensure the apples and pastry aren’t sticking. Place a plate over the skillet and invert the pastry onto the plate in one swift motion. Serve warm or at room temperature.

ediblevancouverisland.com 11

Scan the code to explore Parksville Qualicum Beach with our team

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“Bigger is better” is often howwe think about measuring the success of a business, but that’s not the case for an increasing number of businesses in the Parksville Qualicum Beach region who are embracing a different business model—one that includes intentionally staying small, minimizing business hours, and offering limited release products, all in an effort to find a work-life balance that will keep them loving their work for years to come.

Dave Paul of Loveshack Libations is a perfect example of this “backwards” business model. He’s the proud owner of one of BC’s smallest breweries, where the tasting room is in the manufacturing area, and customers sit amongst the brewing equipment at live-edge tables. And it turns out, this vibe is very reminiscent of his humble beginnings as a hobbyist brewmaker. A few years ago, he and his wife bought the land on Vancouver Island, where his wife was from—land without any buildings on it. They lived with their 9-month-old daughter at the time lived in a tent for six weeks while he constructed a 12x16 foot shack for them to live in. They moved in and fondly nicknamed “The Love Shack.”They lived there for 3.5 years while Dave built their home, and then Dave began brewing beer in the shack. Then in 2015, he “got carried away.” “I had 200 litres of homebrew in my crawlspace, and then I started looking at buying bigger equipment,” Dave recalls. “So my wife said, ‘why don’t you just open a brewery? And I thought, wow, she’s really smart!’” After running the numbers, he decided to start it as a side project while continuing his career as a bartender and waiter. He opened his brewery in February 2017, naming it “Loveshack Libations” after the original little brewing shack. He hasn’t looked back since, quitting his serving and bartending career in fall of 2018 to focus on making beer for a living.

But you need to plan ahead to visit his little brewery, as it is only open 8 hours a week. And he doesn’t plan on changing that. “It’s great watching people try and wrap their heads around the fact that I don’t want to get any bigger.” Dave laughs. “Keeping it at 8 hours is the only way I can keep up. Any more than that I would have to hire people, I would have to get bigger equipment.” As it is, he works 40 to 50 hours a week in the shack. His wife calls it the “degrowth model,” as he’s actually trying to sell less beer. “The main reason I don’t want to grow this business is I don’t want the business to change. I don’t get burnt out on it. I really look forward to my eight hours of opening,”he says. “I love doing it, and I want to keep loving doing it.” He likes that he has complete control over his products, and he takes real joy in being the one to pour the beer he makes for his customers. “The gratification of seeing peoples’ reaction is a super special feeling.” And the community has really come alongside his little brewery to support his limited release beers and minimal hours. People plan their visits around his releases, as they often sell out within a couple of weeks. “It’s a neat thing to be able to have something people look forward to and is so special that they seek it out.” This way of running a business also allows him a beautiful work-life balance. “I get to bike, ski, see my kid, my wife,” Dave

12 JAN/FEB 2023 EDIBLE VANCOUVER ISLAND

Opposite page: spreading pizza sauce at Wild Culture Bakery. This page, clockwise from left: pizzas being prepared at Wild Culture Bakery; Dave Paul of Loveshack Libations; beer being poured at Loveshack Libations. Photos by Rae-Anne Guenther.

The limited hours and products also allow the business to feel more intimate. “We develop relationships with our customers, and that is kind of lost nowadays and I think people crave it,” Jean says. “They like that connection; they like to be remembered by name.” Their neighbourhood location also lends itself well to limited hours and community connection. For Jean and Dave, this is a business model that works, and one that is growing in popularity in the region, with other culinary entrepreneurs also adopting limited releases and hours—such as Tidal Taco, Salt Pizzeria and Bome Cheese. Jean isn’t surprised that many businesses in the Parksville Qualicum Beach region are adapting this “smaller is better”model. “I think that we as a culture are looking to experience things on a small scale,” she reflects. “It gives a different ambiance, and that balance as a business owner keeps you inspired, keeps us wanting to do the work that we do.” So next time you’re in the Parksville Qualicum Beach region, plan ahead to make sure you don’t miss out on a pizza from Wild Culture Bakery or a limited release beer from Loveshack Libations, and know that you’re truly supporting the lives and passions of the people behind the business signs.

explains. “In the winter I brew around my skiing schedule. If I got bigger or changed things, that would change my life and I do not want it to change.”He adds, “As soon as this stops being fun, I will be out.” A sustainable work-life balance is also a main reason why Jean Wilson of Wild Culture Bakery has embraced a limited release, minimal opening hours business model. “We’re only open three days a week mostly because it’s a choice we’ve made for our lifestyle,”she explains. “Most of our staff are artists, and they work really hard for three days, and then they get to do other things.” After their three work days, they have the opportunity to rest and recover, “and then we have more capacity for creativity,” Jean says. But the business didn’t start this way 25 years ago. It began as a completely wholesale bread business. They delivered bread throughout the island and into Vancouver, with much of their time consumed with packaging and driving. But a decade ago, they decided to buy a storefront, hiring a pastry chef (who still works for them) so they could add sweets to the roster. They’ve also recently added sourdough pizza to the menu but have limited the offer to Friday nights. They do this because of the amount of prep work involved, and also because the community seems to enjoy the element of scarcity. “People know they have to order ahead, because they’re usually sold out by Thursday. It makes it more of an occasion,” Jean says. “It makes it a little bit more exciting.”

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C E L E B R A T I O N S

R E D D I N N E R A RED -THEMED CE LEBRAT I ON OF FOOD, FR I ENDS AND LOVE WORDS KAREN ELGERSMA PHOTOS SHANE YAKELASHEK

Valentine’s Day is a big deal in our family because February 14th happens to be my husband, Del’s, birthday. Finding a way to celebrate him and Valentine’s Day while including friends and family was always a challenge. Then, one year, when our kids were young, a good friend of ours decided to host a red dinner in honour of both Del’s birthday and Valentine’s Day—and it was wildly fun! We have carried on the tradition, hosting a night that celebrates love, food, friends, family and, yes, the colour red. We send all our guests a fun invitation with simple instructions: wear red, bring something to contribute to the dinner that is red and be ready to have some fun. The table theme is red, the food is red, and, of course, the wine is red. We also make a non-alcoholic red cranberry punch.

16 JAN/FEB 2023 EDIBLE VANCOUVER ISLAND

The menu is so much fun to plan. The starter can be a home made salsa, a tomato bruschetta or sun-dried tomato tapenade. Red peppers, berries and tomatoes make great salad mixings, and even the salad dressing must be red! We often have a tomato-based dish, from a traditional spaghetti to a bolognese with Galloping Goose Italian sausage, to pasta and meatballs and fresh tomatoes. Dessert can be red velvet cupcakes, straw berry shortcake, raspberry sorbet or whatever you are inspired to create with the colour red as the star of the show. I have so much fun setting the table. I put on some Cole Por ter or Diana Krall, pour myself a glass of red wine and have fun tablescaping with many shades of red. I pull out our red Christmas tablecloth and napkins, our vintage red Luminarc glasses (which my mom painstakingly collected for me over the years) and our Fiesta red plates. I put roses in red vintage vases and sprinkle heart candies or chocolates around the plates. I also fill the house with touches of red—candles, pillows, flowers and throws. I keep my eyes out all year for fun red items to add to our red dinner tickle trunk. Some of my favourite finds are my ruby-red vintage bowl that I fill with chocolates, a red heart pillow and a heart-shaped plate that I fill with those “conversation heart candies” that taste like chalk but make you smile when you read their cutesy message. Once we sit down, we take a moment to go around the table and say one thing we love about Del, since it is his birthday. Del is always beaming and admittedly, he may even blush as he receives all the love from friends and family (which is okay, because after all, it’s a red dinner). Then we love to play a fun game after dinner. Valentine’s themed charades is a fun one. If our daughter is home she will sing a few “love songs” as we sip on our red raspberry tea in front of the fire. The secret to the red dinner’s success is to infuse your own creativity and have fun with it. Many people feel a bit lonely or sad on this day that has been mocked as a Hallmark holi day, but our red dinner has become a welcomed tradition that celebrates relationship and laughter, and a place where we welcome old friends and new to gather around the table to connect and focus on what really matters—love.

ediblevancouverisland.com 17

CHEERS!

Women owned artisan bakery specializing in slow fermented, small batch sourdough bread and pastries using organic Canadian flour. Wholesale and retail.

250.898.3304 www.honeygrovebakery.ca #4, 2441 Cousins Ave, Courtenay, BC

1682 Peninsula Road Ucluelet 250.726.2200 @heartwood_kitchen heartwoodfood.com

18 JAN/FEB 2023 EDIBLE VANCOUVER ISLAND

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E D I B L E R O A D T R I P

A Romantic Road Trip SOMETIMES IT IS ABOUT THE DESTINATION!

WORDS DAWN POSTNIKOFF

I ’ve always loved a weekend road trip, heading out of town on Friday afternoon with my favourite playlist and a taste for adventure. The best trips are when I have no agenda and no schedule. A winding road, good company, cold local beer and snacks from the local farmers’ market in the cooler, and a new destination to explore. While my husband and I don’t escape for romantic weekend getaways quite as much as we used to before kids (that could be WHY we have five children, now that I think of it), I’m happy to say that we still make time for occasional weekends away, just the two of us. We’ve always loved country inns, beachside cottages, and of course, great food and wine. I remember working our way through a list of Top 10 Romantic Country Inns years ago, and it inspired me to start a new list. Vancouver Island is the perfect playground for weekend trips, especially when combined with world class food and wine. My list was very specific: a cozy cottage, preferably close to the ocean, a fireplace, maybe a hot tub. Because I love collecting lo cal food along the way, a kitchen is a must for me, but I also love the option to dine out or have a gourmet meal delivered to our room—all the makings of a great romantic weekend. There are so many options on the Island, but this weekend we chose the Rainforest Cottages at Long Beach Lodge—they fit the criteria perfectly! While I do love the Lodge itself and the incred ible views from an oceanfront room, there is something about the cozy cottages that brings me joy. A glass of wine in front of the fireplace, our own private hot tub, and a place where we can turn on the tunes, cook dinner together, feed our senses and nourish our souls. There is something so intimate about cooking together, especially on the West Coast where you can be slurping fresh lo cal oysters and sipping local bubbly while you cook. So off we went. Arriving at Long Beach Lodge on Friday evening, we decided to simply revel in our surroundings and enjoy each other’s company. The cottage itself was so cozy and welcoming—our own private hideaway with a little garden area and private hot tub tucked into the rainforest. After a long walk on the beach and an early sunset, we ordered a Charcuterie Platter from the Great Room to enjoy in front of the fire. Paired with a bottle of Unsworth Charme de l’île, it was the perfect transition from a busy week to a relaxing West Coast weekend. The Great Room at Long Beach Lodge has some of the best views on the West Coast, and the next morning, after a misty walk along Cox Bay, we enjoyed brunch in the Lodge. The centrepiece of the room is a massive fireplace, and the warmth was welcome after our cool walk. We sat in front of the fire and sipped our cof fee, which made the entire experience feel less like a restaurant and more like we were sitting in someone’s home. Beet Rancheros with Black Rice and Chipotle Crema is one of the dishes featured by Chef Shaun Snelling in the book Island

Eats: Signature Chefs’ Recipes from Vancouver Island and the Salish Sea. While I admit to a slight bias, it really is a must try. And as an added bonus, you can buy the book and recreate the recipe at home! My idea of a perfect weekend getaway always includes cooking, and I was looking forward to making good use of our kitchen. My husband was tempted by the cottage catering menu, and I have to admit that I love their idea of catered family meals in the cottage. A gourmet meal of roasted chicken or baked halibut was enticing. But for this trip, I was happy to do our own thing. I love knowing that we can enjoy cocktails and appetizers in the lodge, but plan the main event (I mean dinner! Sheesh…) back in our cottage. So after brunch (and maybe a short nap), we headed into Tofino to wander the shops and gather some snacks. Even a crisp winter day in Tofino brings wonder and awe, as the entire town breathes a sigh of relief after another busy summer. Locals were sipping coffee in the streets and fishermen were swapping stories down on the docks. Our first stop was Naas Foods, a small seafood market just off the main road beside Tofino Resort and Marina. Naas has made a name for themselves in the kelp industry, creating unique sea sonings and products from the wild local kelp. But they also sup ply many of the local restaurants with fresh seafood on a daily basis—I was thrilled to find a few Dungeness crabs and local oysters! Next was a visit to the recently relocated Ouest Artisan Patisserie for a little sweet something. Their creations are incredible works of art, and choosing only one is near impossible. We decided to keep it simple and bought a few of their truffles. There is something so intimate about preparing a meal togeth er that is heightened when we are away from our daily routine. Cooking together in a small cottage, making time for a stroll through the forest and a dip in the hot tub between courses. Lis tening to music and talking about plans for the future. It becomes more than a meal but an opportunity to slow down and listen to each other. That and the fact that sometimes I just like to eat in my pjs and not have to make small talk with a server. I just hap pen to like having the option. At Long Beach Lodge for example, we can wake up, make some coffee (locally roasted by Tofino Roasting Company) and then decide whether to wander over to the Lodge for brunch or make our own breakfast and read in our jammies for a little longer. On Sunday morning we did exactly that. Coffee and granola in our pjs in front of the fire, reading a good book and enjoying the last few hours of paradise before heading home. I am already planning ahead for our next adventure, and have made a list of similar romantic destinations to try over the next several months—all with the option of a gourmet feast or a cozy cottage dinner with a view.

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Other Romantic Cottages for Foodies

DOLPH I N ’ S RESORT, CAMPBE LL R I VER Dolphin’s Resort overlooks Discovery Passage and the Coast Mountain Range. Enjoy cozy cedar oceanfront cabins, private hot tubs, and elegant Pacific Northwest fare at Anglers Dining Room. PO I NT NO PO I NT RESORT, SH I RLEY These rustic cabins with private hot tubs and wood-burning fireplaces look across the Strait of Juan de Fuca to the Olympic Peninsula. Prepare your own meals or order a gourmet meal to be delivered to your cottage. T I GH - NA-MARA SEAS I DE RESORT, PARK SV I LLE Book your own Spa Bungalow or a Rustic Cottage at this 22-acre resort. Reconnect, relax and try out both of their amazing restaurants if you don’t feel like cooking for yourselves.

WI LD RENFREW SEAS I DE COT TAGES , PORT RENFREW These stunning standalone villas have private patios that overlook the Port of San Juan; you will have to drag yourself away from your kitchen to have a bit of fun at the Renfrew Pub next door. SEA BREEZE LODGE , HORNBY I SL AND Nestled along the cliff-side overlooking the Salish Sea, Sea Breeze Lodge hosts 16 rustic, cozy cottages. Wood-burning fireplaces, oceanfront views and a beautiful restaurant. K I NGF I SHER OCEANS I DE RESORT, COURTENAY The oceanfront rooms at Kingfisher aren’t stand-alone cabins, but feature a small kitchenette, a gorgeous view, and a world class spa. Plan at least one dinner at Ocean 7 Restaurant and enjoy a fireside nightcap in their romantic Serenity gardens.

POE TS COVE RESORT, PENDER I SL AND

This luxurious resort and marina offers breathtaking ocean views, vaulted ceilings, private hot tubs, gas fireplaces, fully equipped kitchens and beautiful dining areas. Or enjoy the island’s premier fine dining restaurant. GAL I ANO OCEANFRONT I NN , GAL I ANO I SL AND Dine out at the Atrevida restaurant or prepare your own meal in these lovely West Coast Oceanfront Villas. Enjoy the outdoor jetted tub and then retire to the terrace and your wood-burning fireplace for a glass of wine.

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B E E T R A N C H E R O S W I T H B L A C K R I C E A N D C H I P O T L E C R E M A

Brunch is served every day at Long Beach Lodge Resort, and there are few more idyllic ways to spend a lazy morning than sitting in The Great Room, watching the waves and enjoying chef Shaun Snelling’s fine fare. That includes this popular Mexican-accented dish. The pickled onions are also great in tacos and salads. And if you can’t find black rice, brown rice or farro would be a good substitute.

1 cup red wine vinegar 1 cup water 1/2 cup sugar 2 tsp salt 1 large red onion, thinly sliced

P i c k l e d o n i o n s

M E T H O D

In a small saucepan, combine vinegar, water, sugar and salt and bring to a boil. Remove from heat. Place onions in a non-reactive, heatproof dish and pour hot pickling liquid overtop. Set aside to cool and refrigerate until needed. (It can be stored in an airtight container in the fridge for 2 weeks.)

4 to 5 beets 1 Tbsp cumin seeds 1 Tbsp coriander seeds 1 Tbsp smoked paprika 1 Tbsp salt Bunch of cilantro stems

B E E T S

M E T H O D

In a medium saucepan, combine all ingredients and enough water to cover. Bring to a boil and then simmer on medium-low for 20 to 40 minutes, until beets are fork tender. Drain and set beets aside until cool enough to handle. Using a paper towel, rub off skins. Slice beets into 1/2-inch-thick rounds. Set aside.

2 cups black rice 1 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp smoked paprika

R I C E

M E T H O D

In a saucepan, combine all ingredients, add enough water and cook according to package directions. Set aside and keep warm.

1 cup sour cream Grated zest and juice of 1/2 lime Small bunch of cilantro, leaves only, chopped 2 Tbsp chopped chipotles in adobo

C h i p o t l e c r e m a

M E T H O D

Combine all of the ingredients in a bowl and mix well.

2 avocados, thinly sliced 8 eggs Crumbled tortilla chips, for garnish Cilantro leaves, for garnish

A S S E M B L Y

M E T H O D

Preheat oven to 375°F.

Place beets in a baking dish and warm up in oven for 5 minutes. Prepare eggs how you’d like them: e.g., poached, scrambled or sunny-side up. Divide rice among 4 plates, then top with beets, avocado and eggs. Drizzle chipotle crema overtop and garnish with pickled onions, crumbled chips and cilantro.

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R O A D T R I P R E C I P E

Excerpted from Island Eats: Signature Chefs’ Recipes from Vancouver Island and the Salish Sea by Dawn Postnikoff and Joanne Sasvari. Food photography by Gabriel Cabrera. Recipe copyright © 2021 by Long Beach Lodge. Excerpted with permission from Figure 1 Publishing. All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.

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Things to Do

Start Exploring Spend some time in Parksville Qualicum Beach and recharge your batteries. Escape the crush of deadlines, traffic jams and overcrowded spaces, and step back in time a little. You will find everything from local arts and crafts, edible products including coffee, chocolates, preserves, spirits, award winning craft brews and savoury delights. Golf courses with 19th hole eats and every thing from French inspired dining and bakeries to seaside fish and chips. See goats on a roof, explore un derground caves, stroll endless sandy beaches at low tide, walk among ancient old growth forests, enjoy the challenge of world-class biking and hiking, and take in local farmers mar kets, these are just some of the experiences you’ll be able to tell your friends about back home.

Welcome to the small-town charm of our communities!

North Island Wildlife Recovery Centre. Image: Lexa Bergen

Beach Club Resort. Image: @tastereporter

Qualicum Beach & Parksville

Horne Lake Caves

24 JAN/FEB 2023 EDIBLE VANCOUVER ISLAND

VisitParksvilleQualicumBeach.com

Local halibut, salmon, ling cod and more available in store, as well as live, local crabs and shellfish!

Preserves for every day and every occasion.

Fresh from the boat to you! F RENCH CREEK SEAFOOD LTD. (250) 248-2888 | frenchcreek.ca Located in French Creek Harbour at 1097 Lee Rd, Parksville

Handcrafted in Qualicum Beach catieshotdilledbeans.com

Life is too short for bad coffee

Rustic dishes wi a contemporary spin

Come see our Jura collection or arrange a demo Jura E8 - Piano White

3521 Dolphin Drive, Nanoose Bay seascapedining.ca @seascapedining

#1-177 W. 2nd Ave., Qualicum Beach 250-752-8744

Get Exclusive Discounts wi th the Parksvi l le Qual icum Beach Savings Pass

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250.752.0077 | 692 Bennett Rd. Qualicum Beach WILDCULTUREBAKERY.COM

myPQB.ca/pass

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I S L A N D T R E A S U R E

The resurgence of small dairy

WORDS TERRI POTRATZ

B.C. dairy producers face complex regulations and lengthy approval processes in order to deliver safe products to the public. Few industries can compare to the kind of red tape that dairy farmers must adhere to, and while the laws are designed to ensure pathogens don’t find their way into commercially sold milk, intense regulation can often leave small-scale farmers with shrinking profit margins. Many independent dairy farmers have found themselves unable to innovate and diversify their business within the parameters of such strict regulations. But that tide is beginning to change, with Vancouver Island starting to see the return of small-scale dairy farmers with new busi ness models. This shift from monolithic milk distribution back to regional farms can’t come soon enough for the communities who want to improve their local food resiliency and support nearby agriculture. SH I FT I NG MI LK MI NDSETS Of the few benefits of COVID-19, one was a big return to the focus on local: when non-critical shops shuttered during the height of the pandemic, more people sought out the services of nearby farms and food producers to keep their pantries stocked. Businesses that were able to shift to online or self-serve models flourished in the face of store closures, and the agility of the Cowichan Milk Company is no exception. This family farm manages a herd of 50 Holstein cows, grass-fed for most of the year with grains and alfalfa to supplement as needed. The vanBovens were originally selling all of their milk to Island Farms, but had a vision to bring back bottle service by rebooting home milk delivery.

On this page: Guernsey cow, photo by Dorota Lockyer

26 JAN/FEB 2023 EDIBLE VANCOUVER ISLAND

Their delivery service was established just in time to meet the sudden de mand for milk at the onset of the pandemic, when exchangeable glass jars (like the kind Cowichan Milk Company used) were pulled from the shelves. It has since grown into a burgeoning delivery business that not only brings their farm-fresh milk to Cowichan Valley homes, but also supports a multi tude of other Vancouver Island farmers, makers and growers by offering more than 400 additional products that can be added on to delivery orders. “The community response to our home delivery service has been amazing!” says Cowichan Milk Company co-owner Margie vanBoven. “During the last two-and-a-half years we had major growth, and people appreciated not hav ing to go to the store, and at the same time know that they were supporting small businesses on Vancouver Island. We serve young to not-so-young, and the smiles the ‘milkman’ gets when he delivers says it all to us!” DO I NG DAI RY D I FFERENT Promise Valley Farm & Creamery is a small family-run farm in Duncan with big community support. Their popular self-serve dispensing machine serves up fresh organic grass-fed milk from their herd of 12 Guernsey cows, and when you see the pale golden yellow liquid pouring out of the machine and into your one-litre glass bottle, that’s your first clue that you’re about to taste something special. Guernsey cows are a small heritage breed, and according to Promise Valley owners Caroline and Mark Nagtegaal, an amazing animal to work with due to their gentle temperament. They also produce milk that is rich in flavour, high in butter fat and beta-carotene, low in sugar and easy on our digestive systems. Cows produce two types of beta-casein protein: A1, which is the type of most cows’ milk, or A2, which is the same type you would find in goat’s milk. Guernsey cows produce A2 milk, so it is much easier to digest, especially for people with common dairy sensitivities. Promise Valley doesn’t add anything to their milks, nor do they take anything away, and the result is a completely natural and organic cream-top non-homogenized milk. The Nagtegaals started out as conventional dairy farmers, but after eight years in the business, they realized they would need to pivot to direct-to consumer sales if they wanted to survive—and that meant they needed to build their own processing plant. It was a 36-month journey to secure ap provals and reach organic certification for their 25-acre farm and herd, but now Promise Valley is the only organic dairy farm and processing plant on Vancouver Island. They also have the distinction of being the only certified organic Guernsey herd in all of Canada. “Part of our business model was to do dairy different. We want to show that this can be profitable, and we want to be some kind of advocate for another small dairy farm to start. I believe the public wants to see small farms again,” says Caroline. And while the life of a farmer is a tiresome job with early mornings and long days, the response from the community makes it all worthwhile. “It’s the most fulfilling and satisfying life, if you can find your balance,” Caroline says. “It feels good to work this hard and to provide this beautiful food that I feed to my own family.”

Above: Promise Valley Milk, photo by Dorota Lockyer

Photos courtesy of Cowichan Milk: Delivery van & Holstein cow

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