Edible Sacramento Spring 2022

Spring 2022

HOSTING A SUCCESSFUL BRUNCH

ALSO INSIDE MEET COTTAGE FOOD OPERATORS • A DIRTY RECIPE FOR COMPOST

CONTENTS SPRING

WELCOME TO EDIBLE SACRAMENTO 2 Letter from our Publisher Features WHEN LIFE GIVES YOU LEMONS, MAKE LEMON CAKE 20 Meet thriving cottage food operators. SAVING THE PLANET, ONE BANANA PEEL AT A TIME 43 The dirt on composting. Departments WHAT’S IN SEASON 6 Bite into asparagus season. THE GREENHOUSE 8 Master gardeners dig for answers. A GENEROUS HELPING 11 Alchemist CDC fights food insecurity. 32 The Green Spaces Crew helps organic gardens grow. LIQUID ASSETS 15 A perfect pairing at Christopher Cellars. IN THE KITCHEN 26 Let’s brunch about it.

Recipes in this issue: 18 GrilledRack of Lambwith Chimichurri Sauce 18 ChickenTacoswith Pineapple Salsa 31 EnglishPeaDeviledEggs 36 Rhubarb-Rose Sorbet 41 Apricot IceCream

BACK OF THE HOUSE 33 Meet Chef Courtney McDonald at Auburn's Restaurant Josephine. ON THE FARM 38 Good Humus Produce is a family affair. EDIBLE SPROUTS 47 You can compost.

Cookies prepared by Brittney Crabtree of Ruby Cakes Cookies, a cottage food operator in Rocklin. Photo by Raoul Ortega

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LETTER FROM THE PUBLISHER

G rowing up on a small family farm, I learned the farm-to fork philosophy at an early age and understood that hard work put food on the dinner table. Garden-grown, pasture-raised, and handmade were the best of the best. Although not a native, I have been a resident of Sacramento County for more than 30 years. I am excited to take on the re sponsibility of reporting and telling stories of families and individuals who bring residents the bounties of their labors and passions. Having spent 20 years working in high tech as an engineer, I expected this publish ing gig to be quite a shift. But it isn’t so much.

SPRING 2022 • ISSUE 59 PUBLISHER Anastasia Murphy Anastasia@ediblesacramento.com MANAGING EDITOR Jessica Santina Jsantina@ediblesacramento.com

COPY EDITOR Doresa Banning DESIGNERS Matthew Freeman Tina Bossy-Freeman WEB & SOCIAL Anastasia Murphy Mary Ogle CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

I know how to manage projects, meet deadlines, and work well with people from many walks of life. And I am inherently artistic and creative! When the tech world took its toll, I went back tomy roots to work on the farm— sort of. I no longer had to do the hard, man ual labor; rather, I did the digital stuff required for the farm business. I ramped up our online presence and retail sales at our family’s chestnut farm. Can I just say, farming is hard. Support your farmers: Buy local! My gateway to edible Communities was when our farm (Harrison’s California Chest nuts) was featured in edible Shasta Butte in Fall 2016. It meant so much to our family to have a spotlight put on our farm. So when I found out edible Sacramento was for sale, my excitement was uncontainable; there was no other option for me. I had to take the plunge and become its next publisher. So here I am, writing this letter to our readers and taking a breath to appreciate the journey that brought me here. I’ve surrounded myself with a team that has equivalent dedication to bringing read ers insightful and interesting articles to support our local community. Sacramento and all its surrounding cities have a bounty of fresh everything. It’s a wonderful place to live, drink, and eat, with such a local abundance of industry purveyors and farmers. I intend to share its many stories and bring value to the community. From all of us on the edible Sacramento team, we are proud of our inaugural “re launch” issue. We are certain our readers and followers will find themselves excited about us returning and will look forward to each quarterly issue. To close, I’d like to dedicate this first issue under my stewardship to two farmers who left this world too soon and aren’t here to rejoice withme: my dad, Paul Harrison, andmy brother-in-law, Flavio Alfaro.

Debbie Arrington, Tammy Chu, Elizabeth Penney, Laura Petersen, Steph Rodriguez, Jessica Santina, Shannin Stein CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Debbie Cunningham, Raoul Ortega, Rachel Valley ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Anastasia Murphy 916-585-3669 Ads@ediblesacramento.com CONTACT US 8850 Williamson Drive #1053 Elk Grove, CA 95624 916-585-3669 hello@ediblesacramento.com Ediblesacramento.com EDITORIAL PITCHES Editorial@ediblesacramento.com SUBSCRIBE Annual subscription $20 (4 issues) For details, visit Ediblesacramento.com/subscribe/ Edible Sacramento is published quarterly and distributed throughout the Greater Sacramento area. No part of this publication may be used without written permission from the publisher Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apology and let us know. Member of Edible Communities @2022 edible Sacramento

Happy spring!

Anastasia Murphy

Edible Communities Publications of the Year (2011)

About the cover: English pea deviled eggs fromHawks Provisions + Public House in Sacramento. Photo by Debbie Cunningham

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edible Sacramento

to savor the extraordinary.

In Monterey County, some experiences are best enjoyed at a slower pace. It’s easy to get lost in a stunning vista, the creativity of a dish, or a good conversation with great friends. So, come explore the flavor of this place. At your own speed.

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CONTRIBUTORS

Debbie Arrington co-creator of the daily Sacramento Digs Gardening blog, is an award-winning garden and food writer. She worked almost 20 years for The Sacramento Bee. Currently, she's publications editor for News & Review Publications.

Laura Petersen is a Northern California writer with a passion for local food, organic farming, and sustainable living. You can reach her at Laurapetersenmedia@gmail.com.

Photo courtesy of T he Sacramento Bee

Debbie Cunningham is a longtime contributing photographer for edible Sacramento. When she comes out from behind the lens, you can find her loving on her dogs, playing in her kitchen, and eating her way through the Sacramento region. Her images can be found in several publications, including Comstock's magazine and Sacramento

Jessica Santina is the managing editor of edible Sacramento and edible Reno-Tahoe magazines. She has 19 years’ experience as a freelance writer and editor, and 20 years’ experience as a college writing instructor. She lives with her husband and daughter in the Northern Nevada area.

magazine, as well as her website, Dlcunninghamphotography.com.

Raoul Ortega is a storyteller, visual artist, and educator through the disciplines of photography, videography/film, and graphic design. Raoul takes a design-minded jazz approach to his work and uses the principles and theories of design and jazz to create compositions strategically and intuitively.

Shannin Stein spent the first 20 years of her career managing some of Sacramento’s most iconic restaurants. Additionally, Shannin was the founding president of the Sacramento chapter of Les Dames Escoffier International and is the former board vice president of Food Literacy Center. Today, Shannin is the CEO for Habitat for Humanity of Greater Sacramento. Rachel Valley was born and raised in the Sacramento area. She is a self-taught, available-light shooter who has contributed to local and national magazines since 2008. Her work also can be seen in the Inside Sacramento book. Most recently, her work helped win first place in the 2020 CNPA California Journalism Awards for Print – Inside Page Layout and Design.

Photo by Charles Vincent McDonald

Elizabeth Penney is a Sacramento-area native who has been writing about food, wine, and travel in Northern California for more than two decades.

Photo by Kat Valley

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SEASONAL SELECTION

Are You Ready for Asparagus Season? Mix it Up with These Fun Ideas for Spring.

I

WRITTEN BY LAURA PETERSEN

Roast it. Roasted asparagus is your go-to veg etable for a quick, simple side dish. Just toss it with a little extra-virgin olive oil, salt, pepper, and chopped shallots and roast it on a baking sheet. Sauté it. Cook asparagus hot and fast in a skillet to develop a delicate flavor without over cooking. Toss with a simple dressing of lemon juice and whole grain mustard, or try it with chile-garlic sauce, miso, or soy sauce. Add some crunch. Add some toasted pea nuts or almonds and a sprinkle of shredded co conut. Wrap it. Brush puff pastry with egg wash and sprinkle with grated Parmesan, then cut into strips to wind around asparagus stems and bake for a fun and dippable appetizer. It’s also amazing wrapped with bacon or prosciutto and cheese. Pickle it. Who doesn’t love pickled asparagus for snacking, adding to cheese boards, or dunk ing in a BloodyMary? Fire it on the grill. With grilled asparagus, tender, smoky, and sweetly caramelized, you’re just minutes fromheaven. Make soup. Nothing captures the delicate taste of spring like a simple puréed asparagus soup made with butter, stock, a healthy dose of heavy cream, a dash of nutmeg, salt, cracked white or black pepper, chives, and some lemon zest. Toss in some slivered almonds.

t ’s that time of year when delicate spears begin to emerge from the ground after a long winter slumber. Get ’em while they’re in season and at the peak of f lavor at your favorite farmers’ market or food co-op or in your weekly CSA box! Asparagus cooks up beautifully in so many ways. Just be sure to: •Wash the stalks well to clean off the grit. • Snap or peel off those woody, tough ends. • Never, ever overcook them! It only takes three to five minutes before they are just tender and perfect. Fun Facts Caesar Augustus was such a connoisseur that he organized elite military units, the Aspar agus Fleet, to make the rounds by sea to im port the best varieties back to Rome. Images of asparagus as an offering have been found on 3,000-year-old Egyptian friezes. Believed to be native to the eastern Med iterranean and Asia Minor regions, where it commonly grows wild, asparagus also is found in Europe and the United States, where it has thrived through cultivation. The f lowering plant has been used for centuries as a vegetable and medicinally as a diuretic and aphrodisiac. We dare you to mix it up this spring and try something new with asparagus. (A quick inter net search should provide a plethora of recipes.)

What’s in Season (and Coming Soon)

PEAS RADISHES RHUBARB SCALLIONS STRAWBERRIES

KUMQUATS LEEKS LETTUCES MEYER LEMONS MUSTARD GREENS

COLLARDS FAVA BEANS

BROCCOLI CABBAGE CARROTS CAULIFLOWER CHARD CHERRIES

APRICOTS ARUGULA

FENNEL GARLIC KALE KOHLRABI

ASPARAGUS AVOCADOS BLOOD ORANGES

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edible Sacramento

THE GREENHOUSE

Digging for Answers Your Local Master Gardener Can Help. WRITTEN BY DEBBIE ARRINGTON PHOTO BY JAN FETLER

C urious about what’s attacking your plants? Before you search for an answer on Google, try asking a local master gardener. These knowledgeable gar dening experts really know their local pests — and a whole lot more. In Greater Sacramento, University of California Cooperative ExtensionMaster Gardeners are certified experts in the science and art of gardening who are part of the University of California’s Agriculture and Natural Resources service. “All gardening is local,” says garden podcaster Farmer Fred Hoffman, a master gardener for 40 years. “Who better than a neighbor, friend, or relative nearby who is also a master gardener to ask for advice on what thrives here?” Mostly unpaid volunteers, master gardeners are also on the front line of fighting the negative environmental impacts of chemical pesticides and herbicides, relying on UC’s Integrated Pest Management (IPM) recommendations in their efforts. “Master gardeners are so valuable to the Sacramento gar dening community!” says Sacramento County master gardener

post pile or a worm bin, and more.” Becoming a master gardener takes commitment and hun dreds of hours of training, which speaks to the quality of infor mation you can receive from this free resource. “My impetus for [becoming amaster gardener] was to find out more gardening information and techniques that are kinder and gentler to the environment,” says Hoffman, who lives in Folsom. In fact, Hoffman’s motivations were driven by personal need: Trying to solve his dog’s flea issues, he accidentally killed all the good bugs in his backyard — above and below ground. Thanks to his training and experience, he can nowhelp local residents avoid such disasters. “Two things that many master gardeners will tell you: One, read and follow all label directions, thoroughly; and two, the question you need to ask yourself is not, ‘What can I buy to con trol (a pest issue)?’ but ‘What can I do to control it?’” Hoffman explains. “And ‘doing’ involves starting with the least-toxic alternative.”

Kathy Steuer. “We’re science-based, tied into UC-sanctioned best practices for gardening and pest management. We’re local, familiar with the Sacramento Val ley region and what does well here. We’re accessible via phone, email, or in person at our Open Garden events at the Fair Oaks Horticulture Center.” Located in Fair Oaks Park, the horti culture center illustrates what the master gardeners preach. “Visitors can pick the brains of the master gardeners in attendance and learn the benefits of, for example, planting in raised beds, trellising fruit trees, growing grapes and other berries, starting a com From left: Master gardeners Dan Vierria, Kim Brady, Joan Smith, Kathy Baker, Gail Pothour, and Joeanna Carpenter (kneeling) set up the vegetable garden area at the Fair Oaks Horticulture Center before the start of Harvest Day

Do you have a gardening question that can benefit from a master gardener’s help? Find a master gardener near you with the following resources:

Sacramento County 4145 Branch Center Road, Sacramento Master Gardener Hotline: 916-876-5338 Sacmg.ucanr.edu Mgsacramento@ucanr.edu Master gardeners host free workshops during Open Garden days at Fair Oaks Horticulture Center (in Fair Oaks Park), 11549 Fair Oaks Blvd., Fair Oaks. See schedule on website. The center’s Water- Efficient Landscape demonstration garden is open daily to visitors. El Dorado County 311 Fair Lane, Placerville Master Gardener Hotline: 530-621-5512

Sherwood Demonstration Garden, locat ed on the El Dorado Center campus of Folsom Lake College at 6699 Campus Drive, Placerville, is open to visitors 9 a.m. to noon every Friday and Saturday, March through November. Check website for free classes. Placer County 11477 E Ave., Auburn Master Gardener Hotline: 530-889-7388 Pcmg.ucanr.org Mgplacer@ucanr.edu Yolo County 70 Cottonwood St., Woodland Master Gardener Hotline: 530-666-8737 Yolomg.ucanr.edu Mgyolo@ucdavis.ed u

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edible Sacramento

A GENEROUS HELPING

I n 2016, at the pinnacle of my profession, I found myself uninspired and falling out of love with the career (see “Contributors,” page 4) in which I had invested my heart and soul over the last 20 years. While I was profiting from the notoriety Greater Sacramento’s farm-to-fork moni ker had bestowed, I knew many others were being left out — unable to access, afford, or benefit from the abundance and new found visibility of our region. When I was approached to write a regular column for edible Sacramento featuring non-profits, I knew I needed to tell the sto ries of people and organizations throughout the valley who work every day to change the inequalities built into our regional food system, to encourage readers to support their work. It seemed only logical to start with my personal favorite, Alchemist Com munity Development Corp. (CDC). THE ROOTS OF A MOVEMENT Established in 2004 by three University of California, Davis graduate students, Alchemist was founded on the principles of social justice, equity, and a belief that all residents should have a voice in the development and preservation of their own unique and diverse communities. Alchemist’s first outreach program was the operation of urban farm stands throughout underserved Connecting Communities to Land, Food, and Opportunity Alchemist CDC works to ensure healthy food, entrepreneurial opportunities, and the bounty of our region are available to every Sacramentan. WRITTEN BY SHANNIN STEIN PHOTOS COURTESY OF ALCHEMIST CDC

regions of Sacramento, providing residents with weekly access to af fordable, seasonal, local produce. Another early project, Corner

Alchemist team mem bers staff the CalFresh & Market Match booth at the Sacramento Central Certified Farmers' Market

Store Conversions, involved a partnership with convenience stores aimed at expanding their inventories to include healthy and nutritious food options in addition to the usual abundance of candy, sodas, and processed foods. In conjunction with this program, Alchemist received funding to hire neighborhood res idents to serve as healthy eating community ambassadors. These ambassadors offered health resources, provided nutrition educa tion, and hosted cooking demonstrations for store customers. These efforts were the catalyst for one of Alchemist’s ongoing core initiatives, a collaboration with farmers’ market operators to allow recipients of CalFresh, the state’s implementation of the federal Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program, to use their benefits to purchase food at farmers’ markets throughout Sacramento and Yolo counties. Today, Alchemist partners with nine local farmers’ markets, and in 2021 more than $800,000 in CalFresh benefits were spent at them. At itsmost successful mar ket, the Florin Sears Store Certified Farmers’ Market, recipients purchased more than $390,000 worth of healthy, locally grown produce and bespoke food last year.

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Clockwise: Rendering of NorCal Resist's workforce development café, which will be located at the new Alchemist Public Market; Produce from RHJ Organic Farm at the Midtown Farmers' Market; Overhead render ing of the planned Alchemist Public Market, one of Alchemist CDC's partner markets; Recipients of CalFresh benefits can use them to purchase fresh food at local farmers' markets

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edible Sacramento

Today, Alchemist partners with nine local farmers’ markets, and in 2021 more than $800,000 in CalFresh benefits were spent at them.

most ambitious endeavor yet: Alchemist Public Market. This $6.7-million pro ject located on Richards Boulevard will serve as a new and improved commercial kitchen space for Alchemist Kitchen’s incubator program, while also providing entrepreneurs with on-site retail spaces and a food court in which to launch their businesses. The market also will offer residents of the rapidly growing River District job opportunities; a community center; a store with grocery staples such as milk, bread, and eggs; and exciting new options for coffee, lunch, and after-work libations. According to the organization’s executive director, SamGreenlee, the goal is for Alchemist Public Market to be the “heart of the community.” As Alchemist CDC rapidly approaches its 20thanniversary, Greenlee and theded icated teamshowno signs of slowing down. They continue to help lead our region into a future that includes an enhanced quality of life for all residents through community empowerment and inclusion, a deliberate investment ofmuch-needed resources, and increased access to all the abundance our farm-to-fork capital has to offer.

BUILDING THE HEART OF A COMMUNITY

In 2019, Alchemist CDC launched Alche mist Kitchen, a business training and food incubator program aimed at empowering and educating aspiring food professionals from underserved communities. Operat ing out of a shared-use commercial kitchen in North Sacramento, Alchemist Kitchen has enabled the creation of a supportive entrepreneurial food community while providing new businesses with the re sources, facilities, and mentorship needed to start and grow their dreams. In its first year, Alchemist Kitchen graduated seven start-up food businesses that earned a combined total revenue of just over $27,000 in 2020. Last year, the kitchen added seven more graduates to its roster and saw total alumni earnings rise to more than $130,000 total in 2021. Program graduates include such Sacra mento businesses as One Love Toffee, Jazz’s Saucy Sauce, and The Burnt Skillet, a plant-based, vegan, soul-food, pop-up restaurant and caterer. Building on these successes, Alche mist plans to break ground in 2023 on its

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Want to know how you can help Alchemist CDC with its efforts? Volunteer! Alchemist CDC needs friendly, outgoing volunteers to work with Farmers’ Market Outreach staff in managing and facilitating the CalFresh benefits booth at markets. To get involved, email Charlie@alchemistcdc.org. Give! I will be donating my earnings writing for edible Sacramento to each nonprofit I profile in this column. Let’s show Alchemist Community Development Corp. that edible Sacramento* readers are the most generous members of our food community. Join me in supporting this exciting new chapter in the Alchemist story by visiting Alchemistpublicmarket.com and donating. * Edible Sacramento will match Shannin Stein’s donation for each issue’s “A Gener ous Helping” column. Please consider joining us and donating to these great local organizations.

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LIQUID ASSETS

S ometimes life clicks and everything seems to fall mag ically into place. That seems to be true for Chris and Candice Mora, owners of Elk Grove’s much-loved new local winery, Christopher Cellars. “It’s like the stars aligned,” Candice says. Candice grew up in the restaurant business alongside her dad, Brett Bohlmann, chef/owner of Boulevard Bistro in Elk Grove’s Old Town. She was managing the wine list at age 18. When Chris was 18, he was working in the cellar at Robert Mondavi’sWoodbridgeWinery, where he became intrigued by the science and art of winemaking. In college, he took a job at Boule vard Bistro, where he met his future wife. Married with three children and a winery before age 30, the two apparently know what they want. After spending four seasons with a local winemaker learning viticulture from the inside out, theMoras jumped at the chance to put their knowledge and skills to the test by partnering in a joint venture with the Bartholomew Estate, vineyards and a winery owned by Beverly Brautigam and Hal Bartholomew. “I was very blessed to meet the right people at the right time. It’s so much fun when you knowwhat you are doing,” Chris says.

When the Stars Align Husband and wife team share love of wine at Elk Grove’s Christopher Cellars. BY LAURA PETERSEN PHOTOS BY RACHEL VALLEY

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From left: Chardonnay grapes harvested from Shinn Ranch Vineyard. Photo courtesy of Candice Mora; Christopher Cellars is a joint venture between Hal Bartholomew and Beverly Brautigam of Bartholomew Family Vineyards and Candice and Chris Mora. Tank sampling 2021 Albariño from Silvaspoons Vineyard. Photos by Rachel Valley; The Moras share a bottle of Brut Rosé. Photo courtesy of Candice Mora

THE WINE Chris and Candice quickly went to work. They ripped out three and a half acres and planted Spanish, Italian, and some French vines such as barbera, petit verdot, and carménère — Mediter ranean gems that pair well with food and grow well in the Lodi American Viticultural Area (AVA). “Wine and food really elevate your experience,” says Chris, who considers himself a caretaker of the wine. The delta breezes and no hard freezes create ideal conditions — cool nights and warm days for full ripeness that holds acidity well. Grapes are picked a little early at the vineyard to achieve the ideal pH level and fruit-forward finish. Working with an experienced consultant with 40 years’ knowledge of grape growing, the Moras expanded the operation and planted 4.6 acres with “head trained” (vine management without wires or posts) gnarly vines, to help protect and shade the grapes during heat spells. Because the vineyard is small, un der 20 acres, Christopher Cellars uses people rather than ma chines to harvest the grapes. “I could not be more excited to have full control,” Chris says. “I believe the quality of wine happens in the vineyard.” In addition to growing its own grapes, Christopher Cellars

“We’re making liquid art. When I fell in love with winemaking, I fell in love with the art form. My biggest goal is to make the best wine possible.” —Christopher Mora, co-owner, Christopher Cellars

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Photo provided by Christopher Cellars

During harvest season, customers get to learn about the pro cess of winemaking by observing all stages — crushing, pressing, stemming, and more — making this far from a snooty atmos phere. Chris is happy to stop and chat while he makes wine, ex plaining how fermentation happens, while Candice, a sommelier, loves to talk about food-and-wine pairings. “It’s a fun place if you want to dive into wine. When you come to Christopher Cellars, you’ll get a very intimate experience,” Chris says. “We’re small, and we’re all extremely passionate about the wine.”

sources fruit from seven different vineyards in the region to pro duce about 2,000 cases a year of 15 different varietals. The goal of the boutique vineyard is to make terroir-driven wines, in which environmental characteristics affect flavor. “We’re making liquid art. When I fell in love with winemak ing, I fell in love with the art form,” Chris says. “My biggest goal is to make the best wine possible.” THE EXPERIENCE On March 7, 2020, Christopher Cellars held its first event, and 100 people signed up for its wine club. One day later, COVID-19 lockdowns went into place. The wine club helped the winery keep a community engaged during a challenging time. The club was a hit, and soon Chris and Candice were leading popular wine tast ing events via Zoom. “The Elk Grove community really wrapped its virtual arms around us,” Chris says. “We often sell out [a new varietal/wine] before we can release it to the public.” “That word of mouth has been everything,” Candice adds. In July, the couple opened a wine tasting room at the vineyard in a 3,000-square-foot converted metal barn. It’s an inviting space withawall ofwine barrels inside andbeautiful oak trees in the yard.

Christopher Cellars • Christophercellars.com Tasting Room open 3 – 7 p.m. Fri., noon – 5 p.m. Sat. – Sun.

Ready to try Christopher Cellars’ spring wines? This April, look for the release of a new rosé, Barbera Rosé, from Noma Vineyards. In May, the winery will release its first-ever albariño, a dry Spanish white wine.

Ediblesacramento.com 17

GRILLED RACK OF LAMB WITH CHIMICHURRI SAUCE (Courtesy of Candice Mora, co-owner/ sommelier, Christopher Cellars in Elk Grove. Serves 4) Mora recommends pairing this dish with Christopher Cellars’ Mother Knows Best Red Blend.

CHICKEN TACOS WITH PINEAPPLE SALSA (Courtesy of Candice Mora, co-owner/ sommelier, Christopher Cellars in Elk Grove. Serves 4) Mora recommends pairing this dish with Christopher Cellars’ Silvaspoons Vineyards Albariño.

Sous vide boneless and skinless chicken thighs or breasts (or cook in sealed plastic bag in water bath) at 145 degrees F for 90 minutes. Remove, then season chicken with salt, pepper, and olive oil. Turn your grill on high and sear chicken for 2 minutes on each side or until internal temperature hits 165 degrees F. Rest protein 15 minutes (this step is crucial and prevents your meat from being dry). After resting, chop chicken to desired consistency. Serve on warm tortilla with pineapple salsa and Cotija cheese. For the pineapple salsa: Whole pineapple, cut into ½-inch cubes 1 tablespoon lime juice 1 jalapeño, diced

1 rack of lamb 16 ounces marbled potatoes 1 tablespoon garlic, minced 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 bunch asparagus, trimmed 5 ounces chimichurri sauce (see recipe below)

16 ounces grilled chicken 8 tortillas (your preferred type) 1 cup Cotija cheese 2 cups pineapple salsa (see recipe below)

1 serrano pepper, diced 1 bunch cilantro, chopped ¼ cup sweet onion, diced 1 teaspoon salt

Trim excess fat from lamb rack and sous vide (or cook in sealed plastic bag in water bath) at 110 degrees F for 2 hours. Once you remove lamb, season with salt and pepper and sear in pan on high until internal temperature reaches 130 to 135 degrees F. Remove from heat and let rest for 10 minutes before cutting. Meanwhile, in separate pot, boil marbled potatoes until tender. Boil asparagus for 90 seconds. Place marbled potatoes and asparagus in sauté pan used previously for the lamb, along with minced garlic and but ter, and toss. Serve with chimichurri sauce.

Combine ingredients and set aside. Spoon onto chicken tacos.

For the chimichurri sauce: 1 bunch parsley 3 cloves garlic 2 teaspoons fresh oregano 1 shallot 3 tablespoons red wine vinegar ¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes

¾ cup olive oil 1 teaspoon salt

Combine ingredients in blender or food processor.

For a refreshing Watermelon Salad recipe to pair with Christopher Cellars' Barbera Rosé, visit Ediblesacramento.com.

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When Life Gives You Lemons, MakeLemonCake How the COVID-19 Pandemic Helped Home Bakers. WRITTEN BY ELIZABETH PENNEY PHOTOS BY DEBBIE CUNNINGHAM AND RAOUL ORTEGA

I n the Hawaiian language, “kalani” means “heavenly.” So it’s only fitting that Elk Grove resident Dena Lumbang named her home-based bakery Kalani Kakes to reflect her passion for the island paradise. Also known as Heavenly Island Desserts, her business is in spired by the place she treasures. Her parents grew up in Hawaii, her husbandwas born there, and she has spent many heavenly va cations there with her three children. Lumbang, who launched Kalani Kakes in 2019, has loved bak ing since she was a young girl. Her grandmother was a baker and her uncle owned a bakery, so it was only natural she would follow in their footsteps and one day open a business of her own. But as she got older, life got in the way of her aspirations. Hav ing a storefront while raising three children just wasn’t doable. So she set her goals aside andworked a corporate job, later opening an automotive business with her husband. But the passion just wasn’t there, and the bakery dream lingered in the back of hermind. Everything changed when she learned about the home-based food industry, known as Cottage Food Operations (CFO). She re alized she could pursue her passionwithout the strains of owning a brick-and-mortar shop, all while staying home with her chil dren. It was the work-life balance she craved. The California Homemade Food Act, which took effect in 2013, made home-based food operations possible for many aspir ing business owners. Previously, these bakers, cooks, and candy makers were subject to the same regulations governing commer cial food establishments. They were required to rent commercial kitchen space to prepare foods, thus making their endeavors cost prohibitive and, inmany cases, time prohibitive. “If I didn’t have the cottage food option, I’m not sure I would have started a business,” Lumbang says. “I always thought I’d have a bakery. I just didn’t knowhow I’d do it. It was really important for me to have a work-life balance. I knew I wanted to be home.” Though only open a few years, Kalani Kakes has made a name for itself among sweet-toothed residents throughout the Sacra mento region. Not only does Lumbang sell her desserts through her website (Kalanikakes.com), but she also sells via Sinful Treats

(Sinfultreats.net), an onlinemarketplace of home-baked goodies. Lumbang’s menu reflects her passion for Hawaii, featuring flavors such as guava, pineapple, and Kona coffee. She uses ingre dients sourced directly from the islands or California and accents her desserts with tropical toppings such asmacadamia nut brittle and fresh orchids. She makes everything from scratch, including buttercream and fruit jams. “I wanted to be farm to fork as much as possible,” Lumbang added. “I use local ingredients and those fromHawaii. It’s all high quality, through and through.” When Lumbang and her family were unable to travel to Ha waii, they watched the romantic comedy 50 First Dates , which was filmed there. As an homage to their favorite movie, she named her desserts after characters or lines from the film, such as Henry Roth and Forgetful Lucy. “I realized I should do something inspired by the place we all love as a family—Hawaii,” she says. “I knew I needed to stand out and have my own specialty.” THE PANDEMIC: A BOOST FOR HOME BAKERS It’s no secret that COVID-19 had a profound effect on the food in dustry, with many restaurants closing, and its ramifications can still be felt today. But for the cottage food industry, especially cottage food bakers, the lockdownswere a boon to their businesses. Kalani Kakes, for ex ample, was able to switchgears and focus onmini cakes anddelivery options, thus offsetting losses fromcanceledweddings andparties. “Being able to pivot during the pandemic really helped me grow my business,” Lumbang says. “Many people have traveled

to Hawaii, and when the pandemic hit they couldn’t go. But they wanted some thing that reminded them of Hawaii.” David Crabill, a Sacra mento-based fudgemaker, is a co-founder of Forrag

Dena Lumbang, owner of Kalani Kakes in Elk Grove, presents her bestselling Hawaiian-inspired cake, the Endless Summer cake, made with passion fruit/orange/guava chiffon with whipped mascarpone, passion fruit curd, macarons from Sophie's Sweets, and edible orchids. Photo by Debbie Cunningham

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er.com, a nationwide online community dedicated to the cottage food industry. He says for cottage food operators, the positive impacts of the pandemic far outweigh the negative. Many people, especially those in food service, were out of work and looking for ways to bring in extra money. On the consumer side, there was a notable increase in the number of cottage bakers — especially sourdough bread bakers. “People were looking for comfort food. It was an uncomfortable situation, and they turned to food tomake it easier,” he says. But by far the biggest contributing factor to the rise of the cottage food industry was an increase in spare time. Consumers simply had more time to care about cottage food and home bak ers, Crabill says. “[Before COVID], people were so busy in their normal day-to day lives,” he says. “When people were stuck at home during the pandemic, they didn’t have much to do. They explored Instagram, explored Facebook, and exploredwhat was in their local neighbor hoods. People [becamemore concerned] about small home-baking businesses; they had more time to get something unique, some thing handmade.” Because counties are charged with issuing permits, there is no statewide database of approved CFOs. However, Crabill estimates

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cessing training course and establishing compliant labels, which must list ingredients, declare allergens, and contain the phrase “Made in a Home Kitchen.” Proprietors must also meet specific operational requirements, such as keeping children and pets out of their kitchens, washing their hands properly, and cleaning and sanitizing utensils and equipment. Although Class A CFOs are not subject to inspections, they must each declare they have met all the requirements by filling out and signing a self-certification checklist. The law also dictates what types of foods are allowed to be sold under cottage food licenses. These are low-risk foods that do not support the growth of potentially hazardous micro-organ isms or toxins and don’t require time and/or temperature control for safety. The approved list includes everything from cakes and breads to toffee and fudge, plus savory foods such as infused vin egars and spice blends. NEW YEAR, NEW REGULATIONS Nearly a decade after the California Home Food Act was passed, the law was changed again. Assembly Bill 1144, which took effect Jan. 1, 2022, raised the sales limit to $75,000 for Class A licensees and to $150,000 for Class B— from$50,000. It also allows CFOs to have their products delivered via third-party delivery services such as Postmates and DoorDash, and to ship their products within the state, whichwas not allowedunder previous law.

the number hovers around 5,000, with many of those permits is sued during the 2020 lockdown. “A lot of people had this dream in the back of their heads that maybe they could start food businesses,” Crabill says. “They work at jobs they might not care about, and when they’re forced to be at home, a lot of people started to explore that dream and consider it. We saw a lot of upstart businesses during that time and, combined with an increased interest in homemade foods and a reduction in spending money at restaurants, that money was shifted. It caused a lot of businesses to launch, and I’ve seen many of them continue to succeed.” In California, cottage food operators fall into two tiers: Class A, which allows vendors to sell directly to consumers from their homes or via farmers’ markets or special events; andClass B, which allows vendors to sell their products through third-party retailers, such as restaurants and grocery stores. Cottage food operators are required to follow specific guide lines as outlined in the law. They include completing a food-pro Clockwise from top left: Four Hawaiian-themed cupcake varieties from Kalani Kakes. Photo by Debbie Cunningham; Decorative cookies from Ruby Cakes Cookies in Rocklin. Cottage food operations are required to label their products as being made in a home kitchen. Photos by Raoul Ortega; Lumbang frosts her Endless Summer cake in her home kitchen in Elk Grove, where she operates her cottage food business. Photo by Debbie Cunningham

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“You can put anything on a cookie! The creativity is limitless.” — Brittney Crabtree, owner of Ruby Cakes Cookies

“It should not only improve the ability for the home bak ers in California to sell their products anywhere in the state, but it also should increase awareness about the industry in California,” says Crabill, who spearheaded the legislation. COTTAGE COOKIER Brittney Crabtree is the owner/operator of Ruby Cakes Cook ies, based in Rocklin. She specializes in custom-decorated sugar cookies with themes ranging from cacti and butterflies to beer steins and llamas. She didn’t set out to become a pro fessional cookier (yes, it’s a word); rather, she started doing this as a creative outlet. “Baking and cooking were a big part of my life growing up,” she says. “As I got older and had babies, I needed something to get me out of ‘mommy mode.’” Crabtree is mom to three kids, two of whomare on the autism spectrum. She is actively involved in autism awareness and co hosts the podcast Moms Talk Autism . Cookies allow her to take a step back and focus on her own creative pursuits. “Autism played a big role in me starting my business. I need ed something that wasn’t autism. I needed an outlet. I needed a break. It was a type of therapy forme,” she says. “I’d put my babies to bed, go into the kitchen, and create something. The great thing about cookies is that you can push other things out of your mind and focus onmaking something beautiful.” Crabtree says she chose cookies because of the creativity they afford. They are smaller, more portable, and easy to work with. “You can put anything on a cookie!” she says. “The creativity is limitless. What’s so fun is when customers are willing to take a risk and let memake something onmy own. They giveme an idea, and I just go with it.” Cottage food laws allowed Crabtree to level up her baking. She became official in 2014, expanding to sell at vendor fairs and events, meeting other cottage food operators, and forming a com munity of cookiers. Now she bakes hundreds of cookies a month during high season and, at the time of this writing, planned to at

“It’s been really great to connect with local cookiers in the area,” Crabtree says. “It’s a friendly group. It’s collaborative.” Search online and you’ll see the collaborative nature of cottage food operators is apparent. In addition to Forrager.com, which has state-by-state discussion threads, there are dozens of groups on Facebook addressing issues surrounding the cottage food industry, ranging from laws and regulations tomarketing and pricing. “I didn’t realize how easy it would be to collaborate with oth er people from the food industry,” Lumbang says. “I thought it would be more competitive. But there’s enough demand for all of us to be successful.”

Kalani Kakes • Kalanikakes.com Ruby Cakes Cookies • Rubycakescookies.com

RESOURCES Forrager • Forrager.com California Department of Public Health Food and Drug Branch 800-495-3232 • Cdph.ca.gov

For information about cottage food regulations and business licensing for CFOs in your area, visit the following county websites:

El Dorado : Edcgov.us Placer: Placer.ca.gov Sacramento: Saccounty.gov Yolo: Yolocounty.org

tend her first CookieCon cookie art convention (yes, it’s a thing) this March.

Brittney Crabtree, owner of Ruby Cakes Cookies in Rock lin. Photo by Raoul Ortega

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Dine and Dream well while you discover your own adventure in Amador County

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IN THE KITCHEN

Let’s Brunch About It Chefs share tips and recipes for hosting brunch. WRITTEN BY STEPH RODRIGUEZ AND JESSICA SANTINA PHOTOS BY DEBBIE CUNNINGHAM, RAOUL ORTEGA, AND RACHEL VALLEY

T here’s something about spring, with its mild temperatures, Easter eggs, and blooming flowers that makes us want to linger on pati os with friends, cold beverages in hand, and savor weekend brunch. Whatever your brunch tastes, you’ll find useful ideas in the following pages, where chefs fromSacramento to El Dorado share their cookery tips and creative approaches for elevated takes on breakfast classics. Of course, any brunch party should include a classic brunch beverage to make it a festive occasion. Here are some ideas for taking your day drink from ordinary to ex traordinary. SPARKLING MIMOSAS WITH SEASONAL PURÉES If you’re trying to impress guests as they arrive, wel come them to your sparkling mimosa bar. Springtime is on the cusp of fresh strawberries, blood oranges, and stone fruits, such as apricots and cherries. Executive SUPERB SIPPERS

chef/owner of Bacon & Butter Billy Zoellin serves a va riety of seasonal mimosas at his restaurant located in Sacramento. Zoellin says it’s simple to spice up your mimosas by washing your favorite ripe fruit and tossing it into a blender with a little sugar. After blending until smooth, strain out any seeds or pulp with a mesh sieve (if you’re using raspberries, for example). Your guests will enjoy the sweet, full flavor of your homemade fruit purées — served in a flute glass with some sparkling wine or Champagne. Want a spicy kick? Throw in a de-seeded jalapeño for a sa vory twist. He also suggests adding herbs, which change the aro ma and appearance of a mimosa. “You can go a lot of places with just the addition of an aromatic or something of a different color,” he says. Zoellin’s aromatic go-tos include what’s in season, first and foremost, but one of his favorites is mint, a versa tile drink accompaniment, as well as fresh basil and sage, or a thyme and blackberry flavor combo. “Sometimes, just the smell of thyme in your mimosa changes your entire experience,” he says. “That’s what food’s about — creating that experience.”

Old Fashioned Chicken and Waffles at Poor Red's Bar-B-Q in El Dorado. Photo by Rachel Valley

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BIG-TIME BLOODY MARYS When you’re at brunch, a good Bloody Mary can be a full meal, with its various pickled accents and, if you’re lucky, a crisp slice of bacon. But if you happen to take a drive up to Gold Country, a BloodyMary at Poor Red’s Bar-B-Q in El Dorado is a super-sized experience garnished with some of the most head-turning top pings in the Greater Sacramento region. Dedicated fans of this popular morning pick-me-up look for ward to when executive chef Dean Hiatt and crew get creative with their BloodyMary specials. Standouts include the CornDog Bloody, Crawfish Boil Bloody, and even the Buffalo Chicken Slid er Bloody — all examples of what a roadhouse can do with com fort foods and creativity. Inspired by Hiatt and the Poor Red’s crew? You and your guests can create sensational Bloody Marys too. Have your guests build their own with such tasty additions as bacon, speared fresh vegetables, or pickled garnishes such as green beans or asparagus, and even pickled eggs. But whether you top your beverage with breakfast sliders or seasonal veggies, a deli cious BloodyMary starts with quality ingredients to build a solid base of flavor. Chef Hiatt shares some staples that go into Poor Red’s signature BloodyMary. “I like to only use Campbell’s Tomato Juice for our signature drink. Then the rest is up to you,” Hiatt says. “Atomic or Beaver horseradish is the way to go. Don’t cheap out on that detail.” The exact recipe is a coveted secret, for good reason. Howev er, Hiatt recommends trying these ingredients: • Lea & Perrins Worcestershire Sauce • Garlic powder • Freshly cracked black pepper or white pepper (white adds a more floral note) • Juice from pepperoncini peppers • Your favorite hot sauce (Cholula, Tapatio, Sriracha, etc.) • Onion powder • Granulated garlic • Kosher salt One of the secrets to a successful brunch party at home is to strike the perfect balance between savory and sweet, to satisfy cravings that may lean more toward breakfast or lunch. Here, our sources share suggestions to take your brunch to the next level. A DEVIL OF AN EGG Spring is the perfect time to plan a brunch for the whole family, and what better bite-sized snack to include on your spread than the humble deviled egg? It’s one of Molly Hawks’ favorites when she’s hosting at home and often is featured at her Sacramen to-based restaurant Hawks Provisions + Public House. “We typically have deviled eggs on the menu, and we change themup through the seasons,” Hawks says. “Through the fall, we’ll DIVINE DISHES

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