Edible Sacramento Fall 2022

Issue No. 61 | Fall 2022

FUNGUS GROWERS TAKE ROOT

FINDING FUTURE FARMERS • PLANT-BASED MEALS • LOCAL DISTILLERS’ CHALLENGES

CONTENTS FALL

WELCOME TO EDIBLE SACRAMENTO 2

TASTY FINDS 9

ON THE FARM 37 Local mushroom growers are gaining ground. Recipes in this issue: 4 Chestnut Hummus 21 Pizza with Corn and Chili 22 Gem City Aioli 22 Roasted Red Kuri Squash with Smoked Paprika Oil 35 Vegan Summer Squash Pasta 40 Crabby Lion’s Mane Mushroom Crab Cakes Nelson Hawkins, founder of WeGrow Urban Farm in West Sacramento. Photo by Fred Greaves/Center for Land-Based Learning

Acheson Wine Co. 10 North Fork Chai 13 Real Mojo Foods A GENEROUS HELPING 14 Supporting mental health in the service industry. IN THE KITCHEN 18 Tips for eating more plant based meals. LIQUID ASSETS 25 Leveling the playing field for local distilleries. BACK OF THE HOUSE 33 Chef Polo Adamo returns to his roots.

Letter from our publisher.

Feature GROWING THE NEXT CROP OF FARMERS 28 Local e orts to grow a new crop of farmers. Departments SEASONAL SELECTION 4 Go nuts for chestnuts. THE GREENHOUSE 6 Gleaning puts your backyard crop to use.

Ediblesacramento.com 1

LETTER FROM THE PUBLISHER

W ho doesn’t love fall? It is a toss-up for me whether fall or spring is my favorite sea son. It depends on when you ask me. As summer is closing out, I am in the “fall ismy favorite” stateofmind. Askme inearly March, and the answerwill likelybe spring. This is our fall issue, so let’s gowith fall … for now. Fall brings cooler weather, a new color pal ette, winter squash, chestnuts (see our story on page 4), pumpkin everything, and so much more. Comfort foods start to come to mind

FALL 2022 • ISSUE 61 PUBLISHER Anastasia Murphy Anastasia@ediblesacramento.com MANAGING EDITOR Jessica Santina Jsantina@ediblesacramento.com COPY EDITOR Doresa Banning DESIGNERS Matthew Freeman Tina Bossy-Freeman WEB & SOCIAL Anastasia Murphy Mary Ogle MEET OUR CONTRIBUTORS Ediblesacramento.com/contributors CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Suzi Alfaro, Debbie Arrington, Natasha Bourlin, Catherine Enfield, Edye Kuyper, Rachel Leibrock, Elizabeth Penney, Anna Quinlan, Shannin Stein CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Debbie Cunningham, Lou Manna, Anastasia Murphy, Raoul Ortega, Rachel Valley CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR Sophia Pappas ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Anastasia Murphy 916-585-3669 Ads@ediblesacramento.com CONTACT US 8850 Williamson Drive #1053 Elk Grove, CA 95624 916-585-3669 Hello@ediblesacramento.com Ediblesacramento.com EDITORIAL PITCHES Editorial@ediblesacramento.com SUBSCRIBE For details, visit Ediblesacramento.com/subscribe Edible Sacramento is published quarterly and distributed throughout the Greater Sacramento area. No part of this publication may be used without written permission from the publisher Every e›ort is made to avoid errors, misspellings, and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apology and let us know. Member of Edible Communities @2022 edible Sacramento

— time to bring out the single-pot and Dutch-oven recipes. Give me some pumpkins to stu† or winter squash to roast. (Learn how to make produce the star of your meals on page 18). Yum! I’m ready. Wine preferences change from crisp, dry whites to deep, juicy reds. Beers change from refreshing, cold lagers to filling, delicious stouts (unless you’re an IPA-all-day kind of person — you know who you are). Cocktails shift from blended, icy concoctions to spicy toddies. And, of course, this is harvest season for many growers, whichmeans it’s all-hands-on-deck time. Check out our story about harvesting your own backyard bumper crop on page 6. At our urban abode, we harvest leaves. Even as an adult, I find a pile of raked leaves incredibly irresistible. Onmany occasions, I have foundmy other half buried under them as giggling kids watch, looking guilty but playing innocent. I too have been found under that pile a couple of times, indulging the kids (andmyself) in this beloved seasonal ritual. I even once foundmy youngest sound asleep on top of a pile — she’d just decided to take a nap! Ah, the joys of fall, simple and unforgettable. This fall brings a milestone birthday celebration for me — yep, I am 30 (again). For years, I was 29, but I can’t really get away with that anymore, so I’ve leaped a year for ward to be 30 for a decade (or two). Milestones in life are important no matter the occa sion or number. They are reasons to get together with friends and family, pay tribute to occasions and people, take time for reflection, look forward, and look back. Milestones often come with special meals, whether they be home cooked or enjoyed out. Perhaps it’s time to try a tasting menu paired with wine or even beer or cocktails, or splurge at a fine-dining establishment (or just one that’s special or memorable). The celebratory op tions run the gamut. Whatever your pleasure or occasion, always toast to christen the moment for future reflection. With that, I invite you to savor our fall issue. Thank you for reading and continuing to support, advocate for, and love edible Sacramentomagazine. It is a pleasure to bring it to you.

Anastasia Murphy

P.S. This issue is for you, Uncle Doug —Amushroom feature for our family’s FUN-Guy.

About the cover: Pink oyster mushroom grown at Cool MushroomFarm. Photo by LouManna

Edible Communities Publications of the Year (2011)

2 FALL 2022

edible Sacramento

the hottest fine dining in the foothills

twelve 28 kitchen 530-446-6534 www.twelve28kitchen.com 10119 commercial ave. Penn Valley, CA

Ediblesacramento.com 3

SEASONAL SELECTION

Host a Chestnut Roast this Fall How to find, prepare, and impress with fresh chestnuts this season.

WRITTEN BY NATASHA BOURLIN PHOTOS BY ANASTASIA MURPHY

4 FALL 2022

edible Sacramento

C hestnuts roasting on an open fire? ’Tis the season … but which season? In California, chestnut sea son is in the fall, so don’t wait until winter to satisfy your chestnut crav ing or curiosity. While four overarching species of chestnuts are grown in the United States — American, Japanese, Chi nese, and European — many hybrids (bred for blight resistance) exist on chestnut farms. Harrison’s California Chestnuts orchard in Gridley, Calif., primarily grows the colossal variety, as do most California farms. BUYING AND PREPARING CHESTNUTS For the best quality and freshest fla

CHUMMUS (AKA CHESTNUT HUMMUS) (courtesy of Harrison’s California Chestnuts in Gridley. Serves 4 to 6)

1 pound fresh chestnuts, raw 1 clove garlic, chopped ⅛ cup tahini ¼ cup fresh lemon juice ¾ teaspoon ground cumin ⅓ teaspoon sea salt ⅛ cup extra-virgin olive oil ⅓ cup water Dash of cayenne pepper (optional) Rinse fresh chestnuts in colander with cool water. Use a large, heavy knife to cut fresh chestnuts in half. Carefully place nuts in pan of boiling water and cook 8 minutes. Remove them from pan and place in bowl

of ice water. Remove shell with chestnut knife or paring knife and peel o pellicle.

Combine cooked chestnuts, garlic, tahini, lemon juice, cumin, sea salt, olive oil, and water in a food processor. Mix until smooth. Add extra water for desired consistency. Chill. Serve in a bowl, and garnish with thinly sliced carrots, red onions, and whole cilan tro leaves. Drizzle extra-virgin olive oil over chummus, carrots, and onion, then top with cilantro. Serve with rice crackers or pita bread (sliced and warmed).

alternative. Try adding them to a favorite stu™ed-pumpkin recipe, or make a savory chest nut risotto. If you want to go over-the-top delicious, make marrons glacé, which are Eu ropean-style candied chest nuts. Chestnuts are truly a ver

vor, purchase them from a local chestnut orchard, when they are in season — September through October. Local farms are often open during the fall for pickup or picking your own, or buy them at farmers’ markets or order from growers’ websites. These perishable delicacies must be stored in the refrigera tor to prevent drying and mold. Keep them in a burlap or mesh bag (breathable) in the coldest part of the refrigerator, turning them often to allow air to circulate. Although they can be eat en raw, and some do, it isn’t recommended; raw chestnuts can cause stomach upset and aren’t as flavorful. We suggest eating only cooked chestnuts. Their shelf life is only about two to three weeks, so don’t store them too long. You can extend their life by freezing them, but after they’re thawed, they should be con sumed within a day or two. Chestnuts must be scored prior to cooking, no matter the method, to release the nuts’ moisture content and prevent them from bursting. Sandra Harrison, owner of Harrison’s California Chestnuts, suggests purchasing a chestnut knife, made specif ically for this purpose. Boiling and steaming are fast, e”cient ways to cook chestnuts for recipes, as is microwaving. Roasting on a grill or toasting in an oven are recommended for serving nuts whole. Cook times vary depending onmethod and nut size. Once cooked, the shell and fibrous internal skin, called the pel licle,must be removed before you eat the nuts or add themto dishes. Many farmers take pride in sharing their chestnut knowledge and tips and tricks, so ask them any questions you have to help you with your chestnut experience. SAVORY OR SWEET, NUTRITIONALLY UNIQUE A traditional chicken and chestnuts recipe creates a delectable melody on your palate, while the nuts’ sweet, rich flavor shines in soups and “chummus” (see recipe above). Added to a charcuterie plate, chestnuts can replace bread and crackers for a gluten-free

Opposite, clockwise from top left: Chestnut on the tree in its burr during harvest season; Chummus (chestnut hummus) served on sesame rice crack ers and whole, raw chestnuts; Chestnuts in their burrs; Roasted chestnuts should be scored to allow steam to release while cooking

satile ingredient for savory and sweet recipes alike. Cooked chestnuts have a roasted-carrot-like texture and pos sess impressive nutritional content. The nut’s meat is high in fib er, complex carbohydrates, and vitaminC, along with being low in calories and 99 percent fat free, unlike its nut cousins. HOST A ROAST Eating chestnuts can be an interactive experience. While Harri son cites a plethora of ways to enjoy chestnuts, one of her favorites is when roasting, peeling, and eating them together with her fam ily. The roasted nuts are served with wine and a platter of com plementary foods — soft ripe cheeses, prosciutto, fruits, crackers, jams, and honey. Remember, if you’re singing the holiday song with roasted chestnuts in hand, they’re likely imported, thus neither local nor fresh. Instead, relish the luscious nuts when they’re falling from the trees each fall. Purchase chestnuts fresh, then prep and freeze themahead of time for thosemust-have holiday dishes.

Harrison’s California Chestnuts Californiachestnuts.com

Chestnut Growers of America - provides a list of chestnut orchards in California and across the U.S. Chestnutgrowers.org/growers.html

Ediblesacramento.com 5

THE GREENHOUSE

Fruitful Idea What to do with your bumper crop of fruit? Feed your neighbors. A warm spring brought larger-than-usual fruit loads to many backyard trees — and an abundance of homegrown produce. While a blessing, such a huge harvest can become a headache. At Sacramento’s River City Food Bank, executive director Amanda McCarthy takes anyone’s excess bags of fresh oranges, apples, and other fruit. She has families to feed. “Our need has gone through the roof!” she says. “We see a lot of neighbors helping neighbors … No one should experience hunger whenwe’re literally growing food in our backyards.” Individuals may pick their own fruit to donate, or they may call in volunteer harvesters to do the gleaning — gathering food that otherwisewould go towaste. They can join volunteer gleaning groups, such as Harvest Sacramento or Yolo Grown, or form their own neighborhood gleaning group. “Wewelcome all kinds of donations!”McCarthy adds. “We love when people bring in fresh oranges, peaches, and other fruit from their trees.” SUPPLY MEETS DEMAND The need for fresh produce has never been greater. “During the pandemic, we saw a 30 percent increase in people needing service, tomore than 200,000,”McCarthy says. In2021, River City provided2.1millionpounds of healthy food, half of it fresh produce. Sacramento’s oldest food bank, River City, accepts donations of fresh fruits and vegetables at its two locations (Midtown Sacra mento andArdenArcade) on twomornings eachweek; no appoint ment is necessary. (See Rivercityfoodbank.org for details.) Volun teers sort the donations and dispose of bruised or buggy fruit. “We operate on an honor system; if you wouldn’t eat it yourself, don’t bring it to the foodbank,”McCarthy says. “We trust people are giving us food that’s been safely kept (and shows no signs of decay).” Citrus and apples are always in demand. Among unusual re quests are dates, figs, and pomegranates — favorites among recent immigrants. In Yolo County, Yolo Grown (part of Yolo Food Bank) gleans crops from small farms and orchards as well as Woodland and Davis backyards. Some farmers, such as Jim and Deborah Durst WRITTEN BY DEBBIE ARRINGTON ILLUSTRATION BY SOPHIA PAPPAS

of Esparto, grow crops specifically for Yolo Grown, and volunteers harvest their produce. “We’re in a unique situation,” says JimNewton, nutrition sourc ing coordinator at YoloFoodBank. “We’re surrounded by farmland. Farmers are very generous; theirmain goal is to feedpeople.” Last year, YoloGrowngleaned anddistributed900,000pounds of produce, three times the demand before the pandemic. Yolo Grown partners with gleaning volunteer organizations Community Harvest of Davis andWoodland Community Harvest; crews harvest backyard fruit two or three times a week, as request ed. Residents should contact Yolo Food Bank (Yolofoodbank.org) to schedule times todropoŸexcessproduceor for gleaners toremove it. Coordinated by Soil Born Farms, Harvest Sacramento targets backyard citrus inwinter and spring, but it helps with other glean ing eŸorts year-round. Ideal for gleaning, citrus is plentiful in Sac ramento and travels well oŸ the tree. Email Harvestsacramento@ soilborn.org or visit Soilborn.org for details. Sierra Harvest gleans the Gold Country. Based in Nevada City, it organizes volunteers to harvest fresh food, then donates it to Interfaith Food Ministry, which distributes the produce. Visit Sierraharvest.org/gleaning for details. You can also donate directly to a food pantry near you. Ampleharvest.org hosts an online matching service in which gar deners or small farmers with excess produce can find someone nearbywhowould really appreciate it; 8,000 food pantries are list ed nationwide. Go to Ampleharvest.org/find-pantry for details. Wherever you choose to donate, your homegrown, healthy, fresh fruits will wind up in the stomachs of folks who need them rather than rot on the ground. That’s what gleaning is all about.

6 FALL 2022

edible Sacramento e i le

TREE TO TABLE

W Saved You a Seat at Elk Grove’s inclusive bookstore, cafe, and community hub!

FRESH CHESTNUTS Available September & October

CALIFORNIACHESTNUTS.COM

Never Miss An Issue Subscribe Today!

• Family & womxn-owned • Temple Co ee & Kalani Kakes • Indoor/outdoor dining • Open for private reservations • Camping-themed kids’ play area • Weekly events

Subscribe today.

Reservations at www.nixta.co Walk-Ins Welcome

9257 Laguna Springs Dr. Ste 130, Elk Grove (916) 538-3482 aseatatthetablebooks.org @aseatatthetablebooks

1805 Cirby Way #12, Roseville @nixtaco

Ediblesacramento.com/subscribe

Ediblesacramento.com 7

8 FALL 2022

edible Sacramento

TASTY FINDS AchesonWine Co. WRITTEN BY SUZI ALFARO PHOTOS BY ANASTASIA MURPHY

S erving up eco-friendly, affordable, quality California wine, while saving nearly 30,000 bottles from the land fills, is a business model that merits appreciation. Established in 2015, the Acheson Wine Co., located in Midtown Sacramento, sprang from owners Steve Burch and Loraine Scott’s shared vision, “to create a neighborhood winery with a comfortable, dog-friendly atmosphere while honoring Sac ramento history and doing our part to save the planet and serve the community,” Scott says. Burch (the winemaker) and Scott both have decades of com bined food-and-beverage-industry experience, and embarked on the partnership with high hopes of making a di‰erence. In honoring Sacramento’s history and family roots, the winery was named Acheson after Scott’s spouse’s grandmother, a native Sacramentanwho lived here throughout her 98 years. Further, the winery’s Solons sauvignon blanc’s name pays tribute to the Sacra mento Solons, a local minor league baseball team that played on ando‰ throughout the 1900s. On the tasting roomwall hangs a pic ture of Edmonds Field, formerly located on the corner of Riverside Boulevard and Broadway in Sacramento, where the teamplayed. In 2019, the winery pivoted from traditional bottling to o‰er ing 100 percent of its wines in refillable bottles, thereby enabling the owners to accomplish the “doing our part to save the planet” portion of their start-up vision. Instead of bottling wine in standard 750-milliliter bottles, Acheson Wine Co. stores its wine in reusable, five-gallon, stain less-steel kegs, where it’s preserved in an anaerobic environment. Thewine is thendrawnout ondemand by a tap systeminto one-lit er, reusable, flip-top bottles. Scott says this process has savednear ly 30,000 wine bottles from landfills, which translates to more

than 75,000 pounds of glass. According to CalRecycle’s web site, in a landfill, “glass bottles spend 1million yearswaiting to decompose.” Today, the original vision that set Burch and Scott inmo tion is identifiable by Acheson’s

From left: Loraine Scott pours wine for guests in the tasting room, which houses a dog bed and bowl for four-legged guests; Scott displays wine in Acheson’s unique refillable wine bottles with flip-top caps; Refilling a wine bottle from the keg tap system

tasting room; its location is not only situated across the street fromMidtown’s Truitt Bark Park, but it provides water bowls for four-legged guests , too. Additionally, the décor includes local mu ral replicas and Sacramento landmark images. Patrons visiting the tasting roomhave theoptionof sitting inside or outside, with or without their pooches. They may choose from white, rosé, or redwines, which canbe enjoyedby the glass or bottle, or may try a tasting flight of all eight wines for $15, which can be ac companiedby a cheese and charcuterie box fromGrazingCraving. Another o‰ering is a wine club membership with options to receive either two or four bottles monthly, available for pickup or doorstep delivery within a three-mile radius of the tasting room. Plus, you can find AchesonWine Co. on Saturday mornings at theMidtown Farmers Market in Sacramento and out in the com munity supporting nonprofit events year-round. Onmost days, youwill find a steady streamof customers stop ping by the tasting room to refill bottles, many enjoying a glass for good measure. The vibe is friendly, casual, and comfortable, just as Burch and Scott envisioned.

AchesonWine Co. Achesonwinecompany.com

Ediblesacramento.com 9

TASTY FINDS

North Fork Chai Co. WRITTEN BY CATHERINE ENFIELD PHOTOS BY LOU MANNA

D riving up I-80, you could easily miss North Fork Chai Co.’s café. It’s tucked into a small strip mall at the Newcastle exit, thus it is frequented mostly by locals. Here you’ll find siblings Chelsea Bruce and JoshuaHendrickson brewing up their specialty chai concentrate, North Fork Chai, after the café operation shuts down each day. If you’re wondering which enterprise came first, it’s the chai. Bruce had beenworking on a chai recipe for almost a decadewhen her brother returned from hiking the Pacific Coast Trail in 2016 and said, “Let’s start a business together.” Each of the siblings had their own experiences to bring to the table. Bruce had long been interested in food and attended the Culinary Institute of America inNapa Valley, graduating from its pastry program in 2007. “I wanted a product for later in life that I could sell, would be shelf stable (versus refrigerated), andwith less competition in the market,” Bruce says. Hendrickson had a decade of experience in specialty co“ee as a brewmaster. He had been wanting some sort of a shop but knew that the co“ee business was already too competitive. In late 2017, they launched North Fork Chai. While the name would imply proximity to the north fork of the AmericanRiver, in reality it was more about the name’s positivity. “You usually like to go north, rather than, you know, south,” Hendrickson says. “Plus, it’s outdoorsy.” “It also implies moving forward,” Bruce chimes in. What di“erentiates their chai is not only the spice blend, but also the concentration. The proprietors use the strongest and best quality spices. An example is the cardamom sourced from Guatemala.

“We’ve sent shipments of bad quality cardamom back,” Hendrickson says. “Ours is very potent; when you open a bag, the odor is so pungent it actually can make you a little nauseous.”

From left: North Fork Chai Concentrate and North Fork Coconut Chai Concentrate can be combined with milk or your favorite alternative; Sister and brother team Chelsea Bruce and Joshua Hendrickson; Front door at North Fork Chai in Newcastle

The concentration also is a big selling point. Competitor brands contain a lot of water as filler and often call for equal parts of concentrate and milk when making a chai, whereas North Fork Chai’s is one part concentrate to eight parts milk. In fact, its 16-ounce bottle makes 16 servings, while most competitors’ 32-ounce cartons only make five servings. “We’ve got it down so that it only takes one ounce of our con centrate for an eight-ounce drink,” Bruce says. “That also makes it ideal for use in cooking.” Adding products and services helps to propel the siblings for ward. In 2019, the pair opened the café, serving breakfast sand wiches, avocado toast, pastries, and beverages until 1 p.m. Mon days through Saturdays. In the afternoons, they work on brewing and bottling batches of chai as well as packaging their own spice blends, sauces, jams, and more. What’s next? “Ultimately, the future is to have a microbrewery situation with a bigger footprint,” Hendrickson says. “An industrial build ing with the active brewing and automatic bottling on one side and a small café on the other.”

North Fork Chai Co. Northforkchaico.com

10 FALL 2022

edible Sacramento

T U E S - S A T 3 - 9 PM 3 8 3 9 J S T R E E T , S A C R AME NT O THE G R E E NR O OM 9 1 6 @GMA I L . C OM @ THE G R E E NR O OM 9 1 6

Looking for inspiration for your next adventure?

A N E W L O U N G E T O S I P S I G N A T U R E C O C K T A I L S , E N J O Y L I G H T F A R E , A N D J U S T R E L A X .

Visit-ElDorado.com

EL DORADO COUNTY FARMTRAILS &VISITORS’ GUIDE | 1

Get your copy of the El Dorado County Farm Trails & Visitors Guide.

visiteldorado.com (530) 621-5885 tourism@eldoradocounty.org

instagram.com/visiteldorado pinterest.com/visiteldorado

twitter.com/visiteldorado

facebook.com/visiteldoradocounty

Ediblesacramento.com 11

For Organic Use • OMRI.org

Success Starts With Great Soil G&B Organics Soils & Fertilizers are made from quality ingredients that build life in the soil for gardening success.

Available ONLY at Independent Garden Centers

Bushnell Gardens 5255 Douglas Blvd. Granite Bay, CA 95746 (916) 686-1180 Big Oak Nursery 10071 Grant Line Rd, Elk Grove, CA 95624 (916) 686-1180

El Dorado Nursery & Garden 3931 Durock Rd, Suite C Shingle Springs, CA 95682 (530) 676-6556 Fair Oaks Boulevard Nursery 4681 Fair Oaks Blvd, Sacramento, CA 95864 (916) 483-1830

High Hand Nursery 3750 Taylor Road Loomis, CA 95650 (916) 660-0117 The Meadow Grow 5305 A & A Road-Connect,

7502 Green Valley Rd, Placerville, CA 95667 (530) 377-5877

GB-Organics.com

12 FALL 2022

edible Sacramento

TASTY FINDS

Real Mojo Foods WRITTEN BY ANNA QUINLAN

W hat does it take to launch a successful artisanal craft food business in the era of fast-fooddrive throughs and Costco delivery service? Like many timeless recipes, the ingredients for such an enterprise are simple: passion, a strong work ethic, and a little bit of magic. (An amazing garlic pickle oering helps, too.) WhenDennelyn “Dee” Siazon pursued a culinary arts diploma through the former International Culinary Center in Campbell, Calif., she had no intention of launching Real Mojo Foods, a pur veyor of small-batch pickles, jerkies, and sauces from simple, fresh ingredients. She simply wished to reconnect with the joy she felt as a young girl during Wisconsin summers spent picking and pre serving fruits and vegetables with her mom. When friends started asking to purchase the products she was making, however, a busi ness was born. Siazon began selling her wares at local events, connecting with customers immediately. “At one pop-up event, a customer was super excited to see our pickles and wanted a sample,” Siazon recalls. “She immediately commentedhowit brought herback toher childhoodandsharedher fondmemories of her grandmothermaking homemade pickles.” When another early customer declared that the products were “magical,” Siazon decided to name her business Real Mojo Foods, since mojo is a synonym for magic. “At the time, my pickles and hot sauces were the only products available,” Siazon says, “so I was on the search to find other goods.” This led her to Cheryll and Jon Lubin, who were making jerky with a similar devotion to creative flavors and a farm-to-fork men tality. The Lubins were accepted into the Alchemist Microenter prise Academy, a 12-week incubator programhosted by Sacramento

nonprofit Alchemist CDC. (See edible Sacramento’s story about this Alchemist CDC program in our Spring 2022 issue.) Siazon says the 12-week program gave themthe support and resources they needed to take their busi ness to the next level.

From left: Cheryll and Jon Lubin, Dee Siazon’s business partners. Photo courtesy of Real Mojo Foods; Pickled carrots and dill chips, just two of the delicious pickled items sold by Real Mojo Foods; Delia and Denneyn “Dee” Siazon. Photos by Anastasia Murphy

Real Mojo Foods’ products are currently available in seven specialty stores in the Bay Area, as well as Warehouse Creative in Old Sacramento, which carries RMF’s pickles, hot sauces, barbe cue sauce, and Bloody Mary kits, complete with the ever-popular bacon jerky. Siazon says Northern California consumers have been very supportive. “They appreciate the artisanal foods they can buy at local events and specialty stores as compared to the grocery store,” she says. “Plus, the strong diversity in California spurs our flavor pro files, and access to fresh produce influences great quality products without the use of preservatives.” Siazon is currently working on a new teriyaki sauce and addi tional jerkyflavors, and she has dreams of expanding to amobile hot foodbusiness. Sheenvisions servinghandmadehot dogs andsausag es using local ingredients with unique flavor profiles and toppings “that represent my Filipino heritage combined with my Midwest upbringing, aswell as travel inspirations fromaround theworld.” Sounds prettymagical to us.

Real Mojo Foods Realmojofoods.com

Ediblesacramento.com 13

A GENEROUS HELPING

I’ve Got Your Back Pair turns Sacramento restaurant community’s grief into a pathway for grace. WRITTEN BY SHANNIN STEIN PHOTOS BY RACHEL VALLEY

14 FALL 2022

edible Sacramento e i le

Opposite: Patrick and Bobbin Mulvaney at Mulvaney’s B & L in Sacramento; This page, clockwise from top: At Mulvaney’s, Del Gibbs consults on the menu with Amity Fideldy; Efrain Flores works in the restaurant’s dish pit; Patrick talks to his sta‚ before a shift

I was five years old when I hadmy first memorable episode of depression. I locked myself in the bathroom, sat in the dark, and sobbed. I never told anyone about the depth of my sadness, not even my parents. Like one in every five Americans who live with mental illness, I navigated decades of my life undiagnosed and untreated. As a result, I spent more than 20 years battling bouts of su icidal ideation and struggling with drug and alcohol abuse — all while somehow managing to build an arguably notable career in Sacramento restaurants and agriculture. In my case, my undiagnosed mental illness was exacerbated by the pressures, stress, and excesses of the restaurant industry. For others, those stressors are the catalysts for the onset of their mental health struggles. Of the 15 million workers in American restaurants, 17 percent have been diagnosed with substance abuse disorders — far more than any other profession. FROM VULNERABILITY COMES STRENGTH In 2018 and 2019, the Sacramento restaurant community was hit especially hard by this reality, experiencing a cluster of overdoses and suicides, including the death of beloved local chef Noah Zon ca, at the age of 41.

Four years after Zonca’s passing, chef Patrick Mulvaney still gets emotional when he talks about the loss of his longtime friend and colleague. “People leave, and it hurts,” Patrick shares, with tears in his eyes. “But what they leave behind is a gift … their loss has impact, and that impact can create action.” Patrick and his wife, Bobbin Mulvaney, his partner in Sacra mento restaurant Mulvaney’s Building & Loan (B&L), took ac tion by hosting a series of mental health trainings for restaurant workers to recognize the warning signs of suicide and self-harm, in partnership withmental health experts fromSutter Health and Kaiser Permanente. That e˜ort quickly evolved into I Got Your Back (IGYB), an initiative aimed at educating managers and em ployees about how to create a culture of acceptance and communi cation about mental health in their restaurants, as well as provid ing emergency resources for thosewhomay be in immediate crisis. “We take care of others,” Bobbin says. “‘May I bring youmore water? How is your meal? Let me take care of your every need’ … It’s part of who we are. I Got Your Back is about taking our super power, which is hospitality, and turning it onto ourselves.” To help the B&L team open up to the IGYB process, the Mul vaneys knew they would have to lead by example by embracing

Ediblesacramento.com 15

From left: Rosa Warren, a Mulvaney’s employee, warmly greets a guest; The IGYB mental health check-in box at Mulvaney’s

their own vulnerabilities. Both have shared their own personal mental health journeys, not only with their sta , but also with their industry peers, and at times even with patrons. “We have tomeet people where they are,” Bobbin shares. “Not everyone is ready to talk about mental health the same way.” “If we’re going to change the way people talk about mental health, [that openness] is essential,” Patrick adds. “As owners, as a chef, you have to be willing to be vulnerable, too.” MENTAL HEALTH CHECK-IN BOX While the fundamentals of IGYB have been developed in part nership with experts in addiction, communication, and mental health, the Mulvaneys have also been deliberate in making sure the program is accessible to everyone in the restaurant industry. An excellent example of this is theMental Health Check-in Box, a central tool in the IGYB curriculum, which has been added as part of the daily routine atMulvaney’sB&L. Uponarrival for a shift, each employee drops an anonymous card into a box as they clock in. Each card is divided into differently colored quadrants, as well as a space to select an emoji that best indicates the em ployee’s state of mind at the time, ranging from happy to angry or depressed (blue, of course). This provides employees with the opportunity to share their emotional states honestly, without feeling singled out. This also makes the shift manager aware that members of the team may need extra support, humor, or care throughout the shift. “I’m dyslexic,” Bobbin says. “We have sta (members) who speak multiple languages, and employees who may not be able to read. The card needed to have symbols on it, not words, so it could be accessible to everybody.” While it may seem simple, the cards have an elegant logic to them. “The process encourages staff to make a commitment to self-awareness, while also keeping themengaged in the collective mental health of the team,” she explains. “It opens them up to having these important conversations organically.” Bobbin is in the process of wrapping up the first draft of Reci pe Book onMental Health , an online resource and training curric

ulum for restaurant owners andmanagers to use in creating their own IGYB culture in their restaurants. In addition to helping bring conversations about mental health into the workplace, the book includes lessons on creating a culture of respect, mindful ness, and positive conflict resolution. Once the book is complet ed, theMulvaneys plan to collaborate with other industrymental health organizations, such as The Giving Kitchen in Atlanta and Not Nine to Five in Toronto, Ontario, to continue to raise aware ness and share their programwithmore restaurants. “We can’t shy away from the hard conversations,” Bobbin says. “I Got Your Back is about helping people move through that fear, and then teaching others how to move through it, too.” What do the Mulvaneys most want to share with anyone reading this article who may be struggling? “Keep hope. Don’t be afraid to lean in,” Bobbin says. “Most im portantly, give grace to yourself so you can also give it to others.”

For details, visit Igotyourback.info.

If you’re struggling with your mental health, call 800-273-8255 or text HOPE to 916-668-4266. If you are in crisis or are having suicidal thoughts or know someone who is, the National Suicide Prevention Lifeline now o•ers this quick-dial option to reach assistance: 9-8-8.

16 FALL 2022

edible Sacramento

Ediblesacramento.com 17

IN THE KITCHEN

Sowing the Seeds of Change Tips for adding plant-based foods into your meal rotation. WRITTEN BY RACHEL LEIBROCK PHOTOS BY RACHEL VALLEY

I t’s summer 1996, and I’m standing in front of the bulk grains bins at the Sacramento Natural Foods Co-op, wondering how to pronounce “quinoa” and, better yet, how to cook it. Just a few months into switching to a vegetarian diet, I’m still learning how to feed myself something other than a steady diet of pasta, grilled cheese sandwiches, and boring salads. I’ve read somewhere that quinoa (pronounced “keen-wa”) is an ancient grain that packs eight grams of protein per cooked cup. If I toss it with black beans, which also boast eight grams of protein per half cup, I realize I can cook up a quick and nutritious meal that won’t leaveme hungry an hour later. Back in the mid-90s, plant-based eating still was consid ered fairly niche. Fast forward more than a quarter century, and I’m still a vegetarian who loves quinoa and black beans, but I’ve also learned to cook with tofu and tempeh, two pro tein-packed soy options that can turn a boring salad into a delicious and filling meal. Lentils, eggs, and cheese also can be found in my family’s plant-based diet. We feel satisfied without craving missed protein or delicious dishes, and now it feels like the rest of the world has caught on.

18 FALL 2022

edible Sacramento e i le

it’s cooked with, is another alternative. The trick is to buy an ex tra-firm brick and drain out the excess liquid. My preferred meth od is to place the tofu in a big bowl and place another dish on top. Let it sit, draining frequently, for at least 30 minutes. For an even better texture, freeze the tofu after draining, then thawbefore use. Tofu and other protein alternativesmight seemintimidating at first. That’s OK. When I first went vegetarian, I nearly quit after just a few months. My experiences with meat-free dishes until then had been largely tasteless — my grandmother feeding me a bowl of bland silken tofuwith fruit, andmymother’s attempts at amaking a healthy spinach lasagna with tough buckwheat noodles that re mindedme of cardboard. Yuck. I didn’t quit, however. Instead, thanks to advice from a few friends, helpful storeclerks, andsomewell-worncookbooks, includ ingMollieKatzen’sever-popular1974tome TheMoosewoodKitchen , I eventually became more confident preparing plant-based foods in the kitchen. Pharoah Davis also wanted to explore tastier options. The Sacramento-based chef grew interested in plant-based foods several years ago. A firefighter at the time, he began trying new recipes at the station, which turned out to be a friendly test kitch en of sorts, with other firefighters eager to try his vegan take on burgers and tacos. After Davis retired in 2021, he launched 1837Vegan, an organ ic, GMO-free, vegan pop-up and weekly delivery service. Its most popular o†erings include barbecued jackfruit, the chef’s platewith mac ’n’ cheese, and various jarred sauces that Davis calls the “core” of his flavor.

Plant-based diets have been growing inpopularity over the last several years. In 2021, NielsenIQ, a global measurement and data analytics company, reported that 52 percent of U.S. consumers are eatingmore plant-based foods. Greater Sacramento, with its abundance of regional farms, is a natural epicenter for veggie-forward dishes. Whether it’s shopping at weekly farmers’ markets or picking options froma plant-friend lymenu, there’s a wealth of choices. WHERE TO START Some people may hesitate to explore more plant-based options, worried they’ll face nutritional deficiencies or unappetizingly bland dishes. Erin Alderson, a self-described “o† and on” vegetarian, is the founder of the zine and Instagram site Cook Casual , based in Fair Oaks. She says that in her experience, the key is to approach plant based eatingwith anopenmind, creative spirit, and stockedpantry. For starters, plant-based meals can be nutritious and filling: Beans, lentils, tofu, and tempeh all are high in protein and versa tile. Cheese and eggs are also filling and flavorful choices. “One of [our family’s] favorite meals is bean tacos,” she says. “Beans are a great way to get that protein you’d get frommeat.” Beans are an easy starter protein for the uninitiated. A can of

cooked beans sautéed with onions, mushrooms, and chi li powder makes for an easy taco night. Likewise, tofu, which is protein-rich and ab sorbs the flavors of whatever

From left: Chef Pharoah Davis, owner of 1837Vegan, serves a Jackfruit Birria Taco Plate; Davis’ Jackfruit Birria simmers on the stove; The jackfruit taco is dipped in flavorful consommé

Ediblesacramento.com 19

From left: Chutharat Sae Tong, co owner of Majka Pizzeria + Bakery with her husband, Alex Sherry, holds a box of fresh-from-the-farm apricots from Spreadwing Farm in Sacramento; Sherry preps eggplant to roast for Majka’s Eggplant Parmigiana; Sae Tong slices up a mushroom and brown butter pizza; Poblano chiles are prepped for Majka’s corn pizza

The couple and their daughter aren’t vegetarian, but, Sherry says, it made sense to go that direction for their pizzeria, which opened in 2020. Plant-based pizza spots have been popular in the Bay Area for some time, he says, and Sacramento diners have been receptive to seasonal combinations such as fig and blue cheese or creamed corn, cherry tomatoes, andmozzarella. Pizza, he says, is a crowd-friendly option that’s easy to make at home. “Go to the farmers’ market or your local grocery store and see what produce looks good,” Sherry says. “When I’m thinking about what new ingredients to put on pizza, I think about what other kind of dishes I like to eat that aren’t pizza and how I could apply that on a pizza to see if it works out.” Alderson says the weekly Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) produce box she gets is essential. At home, she likes to pair whatever’s in season with Northern California-grown grains. Spices are key, too, she says, especially with proteins such as tofu and tempeh. “Think about the flavors you really like inmeat dishes that can [be used] inmeat-free dishes,” she says. Going plant-based also doesn’t have to be an all-or-nothing approach. Even adding just a few new plant-based meals into your

Davis, who also teaches a monthly vegan cooking class at Mex ican restaurant El Papagayo in Carmichael, says his students and clients often are surprised by how inventive and tasty vegan cook ing can be. Davis acknowledges that many still believe going meatless means giving up good food. That’s a good conversational starting point, he says. “It creates anopportunity for people to [talk about] the essence of being creative,” he says. “I think that’s enlightenment in itself.” IN THE KITCHEN Sacramento’s dining scene is resplendent with vegetarian options, be it the newer Burger Patch chain; longtime mainstays such as Andy Nguyen’s Vegetarian, which specializes in Vietnamese food; or trendy plant-based cuisine at such upscale eateries as Magpie and Canon. But what to do in your own kitchen? Alex Sherry, who co-owns Sacramento’s Majka Pizzeria + Bak ery with his wife, Chutharat Sae Tong, advises cooks to lean in to Sacramento’s ample arrayof fresh fruits andvegetables. That’swhat he andhiswifedowhenconceiving their dailypizzao‹erings, which include one vegetarian and one vegan pie, the latter of which uses its own house-made, plant-based cheese.

20 FALL 2022

edible Sacramento

PROTEIN OPTIONS Worry about not eating enough protein? Don’t. Vegetables such as spinach and broccoli pack as much as five grams of protein per cup. Paired with the five meat alternatives below, they can make for a richly satisfying meal.*

Black beans: 8 grams per ounces Egg: 6 grams per egg Tofu: 20 grams per cup

Tempeh: 31 grams per cup Lentils: 18 grams per cup *Information comes from Healthline.com.

rotation could help lower your blood pressure; reduce your risk for heart disease, diabetes, and certain cancers; and lower your body weight, according to StanfordUniversity. Inour house, pizza is aFridaynight favorite—it’s a great option forwhenwe have guests over. There are fewwho’ll turn away a slice of margherita pizzamade with freshmozzarella cheese and locally grown tomatoes and basil. Whatever you do, Alderson says, don’t go into cooking plant based foods expecting tomake an exact replica of ameat dish. “A lot of people get frustrated when they make something vegetarian, like a bean burger, and it tastes nothing like a ‘real’ burger,” Alderson says. “It’s not supposed to because it’s delicious in its own right.”

PIZZA WITH CORN AND CHILI (courtesy of Alex Sherry, owner, Makja Pizzeria + Bakery in Sacra mento. Serves 4 to 6)

1 pound store-bought pizza dough ball 1 ear fresh corn, corn kernels removed 1 poblano chile, deseeded and diced ¼ small red onion, thinly sliced 9 ounces mozzarella cheese, shredded and divided 4 ounces feta cheese 1 lime Olive oil, for brushing 1 small bunch cilantro

1837Vegan Instagram@1837vegan Cook Casual Cookcasual.com Majka Pizzeria + Bakery Majkabakes.com

Preheat oven to 500 degrees F.

Spread and flatten pizza dough out until it’s 14 inches in diameter. Layer 8 ounces of mozzarella on dough. On top of cheese, add red onion, poblano chile, and corn kernels. Crumble feta and layer atop vegetables, then add rest of mozzarella on top. Bake until golden brown, about 10 minutes. Cut into slices. Brush with olive oil, and garnish with cilantro and lime as desired.

Ediblesacramento.com 21

GEM CITY AIOLI (courtesy of Pharoah Davis, owner, 1837Vegan in Sacramento. Serves 10) ¾ cup olive oil (vegan) mayonnaise 1 tablespoon mustard ½ cup fresh cilantro leaves, firmly packed 1 jalapeño, seeds and membrane removed, diced 1½ cloves garlic, halved Juice of ½ lime

¾ teaspoon ground cumin ¼ teaspoon salt, or to taste

Blend mayonnaise, mustard, cilantro, jalapeño pep per, garlic, lime juice, cumin, and salt together in a blender or food processor until smooth. Pour mix ture into a bowl, cover bowl with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until flavors blend, at least 1 hour.

ROASTED RED KURI SQUASH WITH SMOKED PAPRIKA OIL (courtesy of Erin Alderson, food blogger and cookbook author in Fair Oaks. Serves 4)

½ red kuri squash* 2 tablespoons olive oil ½ teaspoon kosher salt

stovetop on medium-low heat and add sunflower oil. When oil is warm, remove skillet from heat and stir in smoked paprika. Let rest until squash is finished roasting. To assemble: Once squash is roasted, stir the crushed coriander seeds, ses ame seeds, and vinegar into smoked paprika oil. Drizzle about 3 table spoons of oil over squash while it’s still on baking sheet and toss to coat. Transfer squash to a serving bowl and drizzle with a bit more oil. Finish with a sprinkle of salt before serving. Note: If you like spicy heat, add your favorite ground chile or chile flakes to the oil along with the smoked paprika. Or, for a fresh addition, add cilantro or parsley right before serving.

1 teaspoon coriander seeds 1 teaspoon smoked paprika 3 tablespoons sunflower oil 1 teaspoon toasted sesame seeds 2 teaspoons apple cider vinegar Finishing salt, to taste

Preheat oven to 425 degrees F.

Scoop seeds from squash and discard them. Cut squash into ¼-inch-thick slices. Place on baking sheet lined with parchment and add olive oil and salt, then toss to coat. Roast for 40 to 45 minutes, until tender and browned. While the squash cooks, prepare oil. Heat a small, dry skillet over medium low heat. Add coriander seeds and toast until fragrant, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from skillet and crush using a mortar and pestle. Return skillet to

*This dish is great with sweet potato wedges or other kinds of squash, such as kabocha or delicata.

22 FALL 2022

edible Sacramento

At American Farmland Trust, we believe agriculture is strengthened through diversity, just like the soil.

Get fresh updates on our work to ensure the future of agriculture includes all Americans.

farmland.org

Discrimination against marginalized groups in agriculture negatively a ects all Americans by limiting the opportunities for farmers, workers, and consumers. AFT is raising up diverse voices in agriculture, because we believe diversity contributes to a more resilient agricultural system, a stronger economy, and a more equitable society.

Ediblesacramento.com 23

C OOPER V INEYARDS Our passion starts on the vine.

- 17 Varietals Grown - Specializing in Italian and Rhône Single Varietal Estate Bottled Wines - Indoor and Outdoor Tasting - Picnics Encouraged - Pet Friendly - Curbside Pickup Available Wine Tasting Thursday to Monday 11am– 4:30pm

Food, Farm and Beverage Tours

• Guided tours • Small groups • Delicious food • Wine tasting and cocktails • Fun and educational • Private and corporate tours available

Book your tour today at sactownbites.com We also feature Farm to Fork in a Box , artisan food boxes filled with products grown and made in the Sacramento Valley by local farmers, chefs and makers.

Visit sactownbitesshop.com to order 916-905-0031 • info@sactownbites.com

21365 Shenandoah School Road, Plymouth (209) 245-6181 • cooperwines.com

Advertise with Us! ads@ediblesacramento.com Want to Stand Out from the Crowd?

• Organic Bagged & Bulk Compost • Fruit Trees, Fruiting Vines & Shrubs • Heirloom & Modern Veggies, Herbs & Flowers • Sprouts & Microgreens Seeds • Natural Pest Controls Everything for Foodies & Urban Gardeners

3500 Broadway @ 35th Street, Sacramento | (916) 917-5787 plantfoundry.com | @plantfoundry

24 FALL 2022

edible Sacramento

LIQUID ASSETS

The Spirit of the Law Local distillers strive for level playing fields.

WRITTEN BY ELIZABETH PENNEY B eer is often associated with festive summer barbe cues and ball games. Wine, with meals, holidays, and celebrations. But spirits, even decades after Prohibi tion ended, may not have such positive associations, according to some local distillers who say a negative public senti ment toward “hard liquor” still exists. Although the craft cocktail scene is strong, it’s been an uphill battle for local craft distillers. Decades-old legislation had made operations nearly impossible in Sacramento, and many in the business say they just wanted to be on the same playing field as craft brewers and winemakers. Still, a handful of craft distilleries have sprung up throughout the Greater Sacramento region in recent years, spurred not only by increased consumer demand, but also by updated legislation that makes it easier for them to operate. PROHIBITION-ERA LAWS First, a little background: California’s Alcoholic Bev erage Control Act governs the production, distribu tion, and sale of alcoholic beverages within the state. The Craft Distillers Act of 2015 created a new license for distillers that produce less than 100,000 gallons of spirits a year (it has since been upped to 150,000). In ad dition, it allows craft distillers to oŽer tastings in the form of mixed cocktails, raises the tasting amount to 1.5 ounces, and permits direct-to-consumer sales of up to 2.25 liters of spirits per customer, per day. Many laws governing the alcoholic beverage industry in the United States were developed after the Prohibition era, yet be cause of the public’s adverse opinions toward liquor, many an ti-vice provisions remained. Though alcohol was technically le gal, there was a desire to restrict its flow and reduce consumption. Many states, including California, implemented a three-tier sys temof alcohol distributors: manufacturer, distributor, and retail er. A business must be licensed only within one tier, and, for the most part, none can have an interest in another.

Ediblesacramento.com 25 i l sacra t .c