Edible Michiana Holiday 2022

BY Jon Zirkle PHOTO BY Ashley Swartzendruber

On my grandmother’s table every Thanksgiving and Christmas was a warm persimmon pudding and a hefty bowl of whipped cream. I can still see that burnt sienna, brownie-looking dish, the edges higher and sloping to a softer middle, sitting in the center of the table. I preferred edge pieces with a dollop of whipped cream on top—still do. The nostalgic smell of pumpkin pie spices and warm fruit and the buzz of a kitchen mixer whipping heavy cream etched a holiday memory that stuck for life. I did not realize until moving north that folks in Michiana are often unfamiliar with American persimmon. It rarely grows in the wild here. But in southern and central Indiana, you can find this wild fruit tree in the woods and see its round, wrinkly orange fruits hanging in the branches in late fall and winter— that is, if the raccoons, opossums and deer don’t devour them first. The trees stand out in the fall with foliage richly orange-red and some hints of purple. The bark is distinctive, with vividly square patterns and deep crevices. American persimmon is different than the larger, shinier, more flattened Asian persimmons you might find in

stores. Asian persimmons can grow in California and warmer parts of the U.S. (Zone 7 or warmer), generally excluding the possibility in Michiana. Luckily for our region, American persimmon can tolerate -25° winter temperatures. In 2012 I was told by the late Jerry Lehman (Terre Haute, Indiana, persimmon expert) that I could grow American persimmon in Goshen if I tried. He was right. In fact, my backyard trees produced fruit in just four years after planting 2-year-old saplings, possibly helped by my sandy and south facing yard’s warmer microclimate. American persimmon can be astringent, puckering the mouth if not fully ripe. But when ripe, the taste is like a sweet, juicier date with flat seeds inside. I’m told it’s common in East Asian countries to find street vendors hanging dried or candied persimmons from strings as special and beautiful treats. Whether eating the fruit dried, fresh or processed into pulp for pudding, ice cream, barbecue sauce or other glazes, this divine wild fruit is worth the effort for making memorable holiday dishes. American persimmons generally fall off the tree or begin wrinkling when ripe, losing their astringent properties. It's a

treat to pick the fruit off the tree and find them fully ripe before wildlife discover their heavenly taste. The trees can be tall, but generally not taller than 40 or 50 feet, and can be pruned to stay shorter for easier harvest. Some growers spread straw under the trees to soften the blow of falling fruit so they don’t splat. If you travel south of Michiana, ask around about persimmon pudding (’simmon puddin’) or stop when you see roadside signs for frozen persimmon pulp. You may find yourself talking to folksy foragers with passionate opinions and a holiday recipe suggestion. May your table be graced this holiday season with American persimmon, implanting rich memories for guests and loved ones. Jon Zirkle is the director and co-founder of Bushelcraft Farm, an educational farm in Elkhart, Indiana. He also works for Wood-Land-Lakes RC & D, a farmland conservation organization, and is a participant in the Rooting Through Corn, Planting Families project. Jon was formerly farm manager and instructor at Goshen College’s Merry Lea Environmental Learning Center and worked for Michigan State University Extension teaching crop and soil management. Find him at bushelcraftfarm.org.

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