Edible Blue Ridge Winter 2022

Complimentary

Issue 50 Winter 2022

BLUE RIDGE edible Celebrating the Food Culture of Central & Southwest Virginia ®

Celebrate Holiday Gift Guide Sparkling Wine Virginia Truffles

Member of Edible Communities

edible blue ridge WINTER 2022 | 1

contents winter 2022

Feature 28 GIVING BACK

Combating food insecurity in our region

Departments 4 FOOD FOR THOUGHT 6 SHARING THE BOUNTY Holiday Gift Guide 10 WHAT’S IN SEASON

11 LIQUID ASSETS Sparkling Wine 12 LIVING LOCAL The Joy of Extra 20 FROM THE LAND

Buried Treasure: Discovering Virginia’s Newest Cash Crop 26 EDIBLE DIY Foraged Winter Wreaths & Holiday Decor 33 FARMERS MARKET GUIDE

Recipes In This Issue 13 Maple Nut Granola 14 Macarons 24 Truffle Tartines 34 Sufganiyot On the cover: Fae Cottage Flower FarmWreath Photography by Edible Blue Ridge This page: Feast! Cheese

& charcuterie board Photography by Sara Schober

edible blue ridge WINTER 2022 | 3

FOOD FOR THOUGHT Editor’s Letter

PUBLISHER+EDITOR Lisa Archer lisa@edibleblueridge.com BLUE RIDGE edible ®

I THINK OF WINTER as the great slowdown. It’s a time for hunkering in cozy sweaters. A time for house projects that have been put off while I enjoyed the warmth and light of summer and autumn. Winter is a time best spent in my kitchen trying new recipes, reading at the kitchen table while yet another batch of cookies bake. A time of reflection as we plan our garden, our adventures and our magazine articles for the coming year.

DESIGNER Jeremy Cohen

COPY EDITOR Michelle Acker

Pumpkin-Sage Sourdough Before that cherished slowdown, though, the holidays are upon us in a mad-dash, whirligig fashion: juggling whose family to see on which day, combining cultures and traditions, deciding what gifts we are giving to each loved one, who gets to use the canning pot today and who needs the kitchen first thing in the morning. Across our region, makers are staying up late and waking too early to fulfill holiday orders and sell their wares at winter markets. Inside our Holiday Gift Guide, we selected items from across central and southwest Virginia that showcase the talents, bounty and artistry of our region. e early winter season is all about celebrating, and what better way than with a glass of local sparkling wine? Wine expert Janine Aquino guides us through some of the state’s bubbly options, and identifies some of those lesser-known varietals that make for a perfect celebratory pairing. What goes better with wine than cheese and charcuterie? While butter boards may be all the TikTok rage, we can’t help but nosh on some local cheeses, meats and accoutrements, thoughtfully curated by our friends at feast! . ough that kitchen calendar may be filling up, I’d encourage you to give macarons a try. When you’re full to almost bursting at the holiday table, you can still manage room for these little delights (they also pair well with a glass of bubbles, as we discovered during our photo shoot). Perhaps you want to try a new savory recipe as well; read about the growing truffle industry in the state and try your hand at truffle tartines. While the holiday season is a time of memorable meals, love and celebration for most of us, food insecurity is on the rise in our region, so we spoke with local non-profit Feeding Southwest Virginia about what we can do to help this season. is is EBR’s 50th issue, which is something I’ve marveled at as it has come together. What a privilege it is to be a part of this publication, sharing stories of local food, hard work and passion. We could not tell these stories without the talents of our writers, photographers, editors and designers and the loyal support of our advertisers, who themselves started as small producers with a vision and drive. ank you as always for reading and I hope you celebrate the gift of local this holiday season. Eat Well, Lisa SUBSCRIBE! never miss an issue... subscribe online at edibleblueridge.com

ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Jesse Feldberg ads@edibleblueridge.com CONTACT US: Have a story you’d like to see featured in Edible Blue Ridge? Send us your ideas! info@edibleblueridge.com Edible Blue Ridge P.O. Box 3089 Roanoke, VA 24015

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4 | EDIBLE BLUE RIDGE WINTER 2022

CONTRIBUTORS

Janine Aquino is a business consultant and entrepreneur with over 30 years of experience in agritourism. A fourth-generation wine industry professional, her focus lies with the grower, the producer. She founded Aquino Baron Consulting, an agritourism consulting company focusing on wineries and cideries throughout the Shenandoah Valley. Learn more at: www.aquinobaron.com. Lisa Archer is a writer, baker, and the editor of edible Blue Ridge . She believes imagination, curiosity and compassion are a person’s greatest assets. She loves a good story. Whether it is ingrained in a loaf of bread, told over a frothy pint, or sprouting from a burgeoning farm, she wants to hear yours. Susanna Byrd has loved the land of central Virginia her whole life, and though she’s spent time on farms from Ohio down to Patagonia, she’s always found her way back home. She was a 2013-14 fellow of the Allegheny Mountain Institute and has an MFA in Creative Writing from Hollins University. She now stewards a small, ecological flower farm west of Charlottesville, Virginia. TimMoore oversees Early Mountain’s culinary program, including our Tasting Room, catering and festival events. He brings the Virginia Table to life, reaping the benefits of living near local farmers and purveyors, while applying his classical technique to develop a modern and accessible menu. After gaining kitchen experience in Richmond, Tim knew his true calling was to become a professional chef. In 2012 Tim began working at e Inn at Little Washington where he acquired skills that fueled his passion and progressed steadily through the kitchen hierarchy. Raised in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains, Tim loves fishing and spending time outdoors with his family. Christina Nifong is a gardener and home cook, a mother to three, a writer of essays and articles, and the communications and marketing director for Local Environmental Agriculture Project (LEAP). She loves the amazing flavors captured in a meal made with local food, the satisfaction of finding words that make an idea spark from the page, and sharing those passions with friends and family. Find more of Christina’s writing at: www.christinanifong.com. Sara Schober is a food photographer in Roanoke, VA. New to the area, she is looking forward to finding all the great local food and drinks. When she’s not behind a camera, she’s either probably in the kitchen, at the market, or on her family’s homestead learning how to live more sustainably. Follow her adventures on Instagram @saraschober. SuzieWhite lives in Crozet, Virginia and is a teacher, furniture refinisher and a mother of two little kids and one large goldendoodle. She began her baking adventures in the beginning of 2020 and has not stopped since. She draws inspiration from the seasons and the joy she sees in people’s faces as they eat something delicious.

EDIBLE BLUE RIDGE WINTER 2022 | 5

SHARING THE BOUNTY

Holiday Gift Guide Anne Scarpa McCauley: Honeysuckle Trivets & Baskets (Crozet) As a child, herding her family’s goats, McCauley started weaving baskets from the invasive honeysuckle vine. Now, McCauley is a nationally recognized artist who has been making baskets for over forty-five years and even has pieces in The Smithsonian Art Museum’s permanent basket collection. Working exclusively with honeysuckle, McCauley never uses dyes or finishes; each basket and trivet are unique and made to endure years of use. Learn more at honeysucklebaskets.com.

Odyssey Chocolate (Charlottesville) The definition of small-batch chocolate, these bars are made in founder Johnny Epp’s kitchen. Each batch is no bigger than 8 lbs. Epps ethically sources cacao beans from all over the world, bringing to light the nuances in flavor of beans from different regions and countries. The iconic Apollo with his sun chariot, who adorns most of the bars, was created by local artist Haley Bader. You can find Odyssey chocolate at the Lynchburg Community Market, IX Art Park Market and online: odysseychocolate.com.

Emily Ruth Prints: Dish Cloths & Napkins (Crozet) Who minds doing dishes when the cloths are this beautiful? Using the block printing technique, artist Emily Wool draws inspiration from nature: how the light catches a plant stalk in the evening, or the magic of bees swarming in the spring. You can find her hand printed Swedish dishcloths, linens and other products at Greenwood Grocery, Bluebird & Co., Barn Swallow, Found Market, and Dogwood Refillery, or purchase via her website emilyruthprints.com.

Field Day Juice Club Tiki Cocktail Kit (Roanoke) While everyone was testing their skills at baking bread during the pandemic, Field Day Juice got their hands on a tiki cocktail book. With an affinity for delicious cocktails firmly in place, and the idea to begin a line of cocktail mixers, the “Lā Kahua” was born. Meaning “field day” in Hawaiian, this original cocktail kit features all house-made ingredients. Make your own tiki cocktails, incorporate a featured cocktail for your holiday parties, or give this delicious kit to friends and family. Available to purchase at their shop 1116 Main St SW, Roanoke, or online at fielddayjuiceclub.com.

Photos by Sara Schober Photography

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is holiday season, challenge yourself and your loved ones: buy locally made, grown or crafted gifts this season. ink outside the box. We’ve compiled twelve gift ideas to help you get started.

feast! Party-At-Home Gift Box (Charlottesville) Bring the party with this thoughtfully-curated gift box from feast! Sure to bring delight to the lucky recipients, this feast includes everything they need to celebrate — from artisan cheese, charcuterie and wine to sweets for dessert. Certain to be devoured and enjoyed by all, boxes can be purchased at feastvirginia.com.

Hubs Peanuts: Salted Classic &Happy Hour Mix (Sedley) In 1954, a time when female entrepreneurs were rare, Dot Hubbard launched the Hubbard Peanut Company. Using a family recipe and Virginia-grown peanuts, Dot pioneered a technique for cooking peanuts that has become an industry standard. From their Salted Classic to their perfect party snack, Happy Hour Mix, they offer a peanut for everyone. All peanuts are locally grown and they recently launched a single-origin line, supporting small farmers in their community. Hubs can be purchased at a variety of retail locations and online at hubspeanuts.com.

Gatewood Rose: Disco Ball Planter (Roanoke) is fun planter will light up any room. Shop owner Jessica Downs makes each planter by hand while her husband, Andy, makes the macrame hanger. When you stop in the shop — 422 Salem Ave, Roanoke — be sure to pick out a beautiful plant baby to fit inside. Downs also hosts a variety of classes throughout the year that make for another perfect gift. Learn more at gatewoodrose.com.

Caromont Farms: Goat Snuggling Sessions (Esmont) Sometimes the best gift is an experience, and who will forget a day spent cuddling a hundred snuggly, frolicking baby goats?! Every spring, Caromont Farms holds goat-snuggling sessions. Not only is this an adorable way to spend a day rife with photo opportunities, but it helps socialize the animals, which makes for easier handling as they mature into milking goats. Tickets go on sale starting anksgiving week. Be sure to book quickly, as they have been known to sell out. If your friend or loved one is not the cuddling type, Caromont also offers a variety of classes throughout the year. Learn more at caromontcheese.com.

EDIBLE BLUE RIDGE WINTER 2022 | 7

SHARING THE BOUNTY

Lost in the Woods: Cutting Boards (Bedford) It’s inspiring to see a hobby turn into a business. Chef and now woodworker Travis Giffin started making furniture for his family home and quickly combined his new skill with his culinary background to craft beautiful wooden cutting boards. All wood used is locally sourced and turned into a beautiful board that is sure to be the centerpiece of many a gathering. Boards are available to purchase at Yard Bull Meats in Roanoke, or by contacting Giffin directly: litwcreations@gmail.com.

Piemonte Provisions: Cinnamon Bun Peanut Butter (Floyd) Need we say more? is peanut butter is made with local peanuts, maple syrup and a hint of cinnamon, and is delicious spread on toast on a cold winter day. Piemonte Provisions is also known for their pimiento cheeses and gourmet jams and jellies. You can find them at a variety of local shops and purchase directly at piemonteprovisions.com.

FriendlyCityFoodCo+op:BecomeaCo+opOwner (Harrisonburg) Friendly City Food Co+op sources locally and sustainably, and as an owner, you become a part of a greater whole; your membership directly supports local farmers. It is the perfect gift to give your family as it will bring rewards for years to come. Owners enjoy quarterly discounts, voting rights and become supporting members of their local food shed. Friendly City Ownership: friendlycity.coop

Restaurants: Purchase a Gift Card ough this holiday season may feel as if the pandemic is finally behind us, restaurants are still struggling. Costs of food are high and the supply chains still suffer setbacks and delays. Support your favorite local restaurant by purchasing friends and coworkers a gift card. Not only are you giving directly to your community, but you may just introduce your friends to new cuisines and cultures.

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RESTAURANT & WINE BAR bloom

A Community restaurant inspiredby theseasons Outdoor Courtyard & Patio Chef’s Counter Full-Service Bar Private Dining Room & Lounge 1109 main street sw roanoke va 24015 Wed-Thurs 5 p.m.- 9 p.m. Fri 5 p.m.- 10 p.m. Sat 11 a.m.- 10 p.m. BLOOMRKE.com 540.566.3891

214 5th St SW Roanoke, VA 540-566-3071

Craft Beer and Artisan Pizza Lexington

heliotropebrewery.com

Slinging that delicious grub next to Golden Cactus foodhutrke Est. 2022 foodhutrke.com

WHAT’S IN SEASON

Apples Asian pears* Beets Broccoli* Brussels sprouts

Cabbage Carrots

Cauliflower* Celery root Fennel* Garlic Greens HERBS Horseradish Leeks Lettuce Kale Kohlrabi Mushrooms Parsnips Persimmons *

Potatoes Radishes Rutabagas Shallots

Spinach Sprouts Squash Sweet potatoes Swiss chard Turnips

*Early Winter

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v Virginia’s sparkling wine production has in creased in the last few years, with more in person events and celebrations due to loosened COVID-19 restrictions, which had incapaci tated the events industry in 2020 and 2021. e Virginia wine industry, as a whole, brings in close to 2 billion dollars in annual revenue. And while most people associate sparkling wine with celebrations, more people are now consuming sparkling on an everyday basis, increasing the demand. While there are over 300 wineries in Virginia, there are only 24 wineries producing sparkling wines, with a smaller number producing them in the tradi tional French method. Patricia Kluge of Kluge Estate (now Trump Winery) started the trend for Virginia sparkling by hiring Claude ibaut, a wine maker from Champagne, France, who moved to Virginia as a consultant to help the Estate produce high-end sparkling wine. A few years later, ibaut started his own label and released NV Blanc de Chardonnay. Today, Claude co-owns ibaut-Janisson, a sparkling-only winery located in Waynesboro. ey produce sparkling wine in the traditional method us ing Chardonnay, Viognier, and Pinot Noir. A fairly new operator owned by Veritas Vineyard and Flying Fox Vineyard, Virginia Sparkling Company, offers other wineries the oppor tunity to produce sparkling wine using their equipment, as a way to alleviate the burden of having to buy additional winemaking equip ment designed for sparkling. Chardonnay, one of the main varietals used to make sparkling wine, happens to be the most widely-grown varietal in Virginia! Virginia has some high-elevation peaks reach ing 3300’, which allows the Chardonnay grape to retain its acidity (high elevation equals lower temperatures and increased ventilation, which slows ripening and preserves the acidity in the fruit). Chardonnay is always the first pick of the season when the brix (sugar content) of the grape is on the lower side. e most common name for sparkling wine is Blanc de Blanc(s) (made entirely with white grapes) and Blanc de Chardonnay, which is produced using 100%Chardonnay. Some vineyards use 100% Pinot Noir to make sparkling wines and name it Blanc de Noir(s). Wineries are constantly experiment ing and picking grapes earlier to ensure the

Celebrate Virginia’s Bubbles!

Janine Aquino PHOTOS

Edible Blue Ridge

WORDS

acidity levels are conducive to sparkling, and many use a blend of different varietals, blend ing white and red grapes. Varietals to note that are different from the traditional Char donnay and Pinot Noir - Norton, Muscat, Seyval Blanc, Cayuga, Chardonel, and others. Virginia has a diverse terrain, which lends it self to diverse fruit and all types of sparkling wines made using various methods. e two most traditional methods for sparkling are: Traditional Method (also known as the mé thode champenoise). e most prestigious method, whereby wine undergoes a second fermentation process in the bottle to produce carbon dioxide — the engine behind that soft, bubbly mouthfeel in sparkling wine. Charmat Method (aka the “tank method”). Traditional method-made wines usually have more yeasty, toasty aromas and flavors, while Charmat sparklings tend to emphasize a more “fresh” flavor profile. It’s a sparkling wine making process that traps bubbles in wine via carbonation in large steel tanks. Prosecco is a good example of wine that uses this produc tion method. Some notable local producers: 1. ibaut Janisson - Waynesboro, VA NV Blanc de Chardonnay Varietal: 100% Virginia Chardonnay Notes per the winemaker: Elegant and suave, with good minerality. Subtle notes of apple, white peach with hints of hazelnuts. Creamy mouthfeel, fine bread, clean and zesty finish. Pairs with: Light appetizers, fresh oysters, shellfish, cheddar cheese, and meaty fish such as sea bass. Varietal: 100% Estate Grown Pinot Noir Notes per the winemaker: On the nose the wine exhibits passionfruit, raspberry and almonds backed by notes of toasty ginger bread. e wine is lively with acidity, burst ing with candied lemon and fresh apple, but balanced on the finish with sweet peach fla vors and a richness gained from 18 months en tirage. Pairs with: Turkey, duck, goose, cranberry sauce, earthy mushroom dishes, and salty cheeses such as parmesan and gouda. 2. CrossKeys - Mt. Crawford, VA 2019 Blanc de Noir

3. Ankida Ridge - Amherst, VA 2019 Blanc de Blancs Varietal: 100% early picked estate grown Chardonnay Notes per the winemaker: Bright notes of green apple, pear and a touch of citrus combine to create a brilliantly fresh, lively Brut. Pairs with: Creamy risotto, smashed pota toes, yams, creamy cheeses, sugar cookies. e last type of sparkling coming from Vir ginia is pét-nat (méthode ancestrale). While it’s probably the oldest form of sparkling wine, pét nat is considered a newcomer to the U.S. Rather than blending different dry wines and putting them through a second round of fermentation and aging, pét-nat is bottled while still undergo ing its first round of fermentation, so the natural sugars, sediment, and yeast can be seen float ing in the wine. It’s typically capped with a beer bottle cap instead of a cage apparatus, as there isn’t as much bubble action happening once it’s bottled. It’s more of a wild fermentation, lead ing to all types of funky flavors. Winemakers are experimenting with grape varietals, both red and white, when making this wine, and every bottle is different. Virginia has caught on and is produc ing some particularly delightful pét-nat. Early Mountain, Bluestone Vineyards, Gabriele Rausse Winery, and Walsh Family Wine are a handful of wineries experimenting with this “natural” spar kling method. Whatever wine you choose, whether you’re celebrating with loved ones or hunkered down in front of a fire on a cozy winter evening, we en courage you to sip some local bubbles and enjoy the taste of our region.

EDIBLE BLUE RIDGE WINTER 2022 | 11

LIVING LOCAL

The Joy of Extra

WORDS & PHOTOS CHRISTINA NIFONG

I

growers, the bakers and butchers and beer brewers, the artists and craftsmen — who help us transform our everyday into something remarkable.

I am whipping, smoothing, trimming, frosting, then decorating a cake that will be devoured in a matter of minutes, powered by the desire to make my dessert a drool-worthy work of art.

Christmas dinner, after all, is still just dinner. But the candlelight, the crisp linens, the porcelain platter, the polished dessert spoon, the poinsettias on the sideboard, the decanted wine — the attention to detail creates the magic. e magic etches the moment into our memories. is is how traditions are born. So I am holding tight to this impulse for extra. I will revel in the sparkle of a crystal glass, in the shine of a brass decoration, in the curl of a purposefully-chosen petal. Because where we focus our energies matters. For these weeks, layered with customs, I am choosing to focus on beauty.

I am driving from farmers market to pop-up festival to tiny storefront in search of a particular wreath, a bottle of oil, a batch of chestnuts, a collection of wines, a box of pastries. I am on my hands and knees, head in cabinet, digging for that tablecloth and those silver candlesticks. When I find them, I will iron the cloth and polish the sticks, then fuss over the table they are dressing for far too long. It is November. And that means, despite the chill and the early-setting sun and the other obligations that tug on my time, I will make space for the tiniest of details. at extra step

that, during most of the year, I might think of and then dismiss? It speaks louder to me now. I will stay awake later and push other work aside to get this meal, this gift, this moment exactly right.

A few steps can make this impulse for extra more doable:

Carve out space for creating: if you plan to make homemade gifts (such as granola, jams, chutneys, salsas, pickles), set aside a weekend and give yourself permission to enjoy the process. Embrace the experts: buy your spirits from a distiller, your candles from an apiary, your dishes from a local potter. e quality will be head-and-shoulders above what you get online or in a big box store. It just takes a commitment to support your community’s artisans. Pick your battles: of course every moment of every day during the holidays can’t be extra. Decide ahead of time what matters to you and where you will choose to spend your energies, and revel in those acts. ink of it this way: elevating the details necessitates that we give certain activities (making a meal, decorating a home, crafting a gift) more time than we do in other seasons. Which makes us slow the rush and settle the bustle.

It’s the holidays. Everything must be perfect.

ere is a mania to this, yes. My perfectionist inner beast certainly rears its ugly head this season, causing my loved ones to roll their eyes at my demands, my tantrums.

But there is virtue here, too.

In our culture today, much of the craft, the presentation, the making and doing for others has been devalued. It’s too much work to bake bread. ere’s no space for stirring up soup from scratch. We’d rather shop online than create. e six beautiful, madcap weeks between anksgiving Day and New Year’s Day turn our rest-of-the-year malaise on its head. In this set-aside season, it is good again to make a table setting look stunning. It is worthy to search high and low for just the right ingredient, just the right gift, just the right beverage to accompany our long-planned and time-consumingly executed meal.

By going deep, we can’t reach as wide.

e holidays give us permission to elevate even the smallest details.

In this way, focusing on the finishing touches is a gift we give to others and ourselves all at once.

One beneficiary of this shift are the creators — the farmers and flower

12 | EDIBLE BLUE RIDGE WINTER 2022

Recipe by Christina Nifong, Roanoke MAPLE NUT GRANOLA Makes 7 cups Directions:

Ingredients: 4 cups rolled oats 1 cup raw, unsalted nuts of your

1. Heat oven to 325°F. Spread parchment paper on two standard- sized cookie sheets. 2. In a large bowl, stir together oats, nuts, seeds, coconut, sugar, cinnamon, and salt. 3. In a separate bowl, whisk maple syrup and oil. Make a well in the dry ingredients and pour in the syrup 4. Spread granola evenly across two pans. Bake for 25 minutes in the center rack of the oven, stirring once after 10 minutes. 5. Remove from the oven once granola is a toasty brown color. Let cool on pans for 10 minutes. Granola will gain its crunch as it cools. 6. Pour into a large glass canister or other airtight container for storage. mixture all at once. Stir until everything is well-coated.

choice (good options: sliced almonds, walnut pieces, chopped cashews or chopped pecans) 1 cup of a second kind of raw, unsalted nuts; you’ll want two for variety 1/2 cup raw, unsalted seeds (good options: sunflower seeds, sesame seeds or a grain like quinoa) 1/2 cup unsweetened, shredded coconut 1/4 cup coconut sugar (or brown sugar) 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon 1 teaspoon fine sea salt 1/2 cup high-quality maple syrup 4 tablespoons coconut oil (can use canola oil or sunflower oil if you prefer) 1/2-3/4 cup dried fruit of your choice (cranberries, pineapple, bananas, raisins and cherries are all tasty in this recipe)

COOKING FRESH

Recipe by Susannah White, Crozet PUMPKIN-CHAI & PISTACHIO MACARONS

INGREDIENTS:

*Pumpkin-chai spice blend 2 teaspoons ground chai tea (about two teabags) 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon ½ teaspoon ground nutmeg ½ teaspoon ground cardamom

Makes about 30 cookies (60 shells)

120 grams confectioners’ sugar 78 grams (for pumpkin-chai macarons) or 58 grams (for pistachio macarons) almond flour 20 grams shelled pistachios (for pistachio macarons) 60 grams egg whites (from about 2 large eggs) Pinch of salt 30 grams granulated sugar Pumpkin-chai spice blend* (for pumpkin-chai macarons) 1 teaspoon extract of choice (pumpkin or pistachio) Orange/brown (for pumpkin-chai macarons) or green (for pistachio macarons) food coloring

½ teaspoon ground ginger ¼ teaspoon ground cloves

Materials Kitchen scale 2 silicone baking mats (with circles for macarons, preferably) 2 cookie sheets Piping bags or quart-sized plastic bags Metal bowl Food processor Hand mixer Lemon juice or white vinegar

DIRECTIONS:

8. Holding the piping bag vertically, pipe even, 1.5-inch rounds on the silicone mats. The batter will spread a little, so leave room between your rounds. 9. Tap the cookie sheets on the counter to get rid of any air bubbles. 10. Let the rounds sit and dry for 30 minutes to an hour (longer on humid days) until they have developed a “skin” where you can touch one and no batter sticks to your hand. If the macarons aren’t drying, turn on the range hood or an overhead fan. 11. Preheat oven to 325°F. Place cookie sheets on centered racks in oven. Bake 16-20 minutes, rotating sheets halfway through baking. Shells are done when they can be lifted off of the baking mat without separating the tops from the iconic crinkly “feet.” 12. Allow shells to cool completely before filing, then fill with your favorite buttercream, lemon curd or jam. 13. Decorate with a simple icing — mix together confectioners’ sugar and water, put the mixture in a piping bag, drizzle over one side of the cookies, and sprinkle on crushed pistachios, graham cracker crumbs or sprinkles. 14. Store macarons in the refrigerator for at least 24 hours and bring to room temperature before serving to achieve their traditional texture.

1. Line cookie sheets with silicone baking mats. 2. Place the confectioners’ sugar and almond flour (and pistachio, for pistachio macarons) in a food processor. Blend for 30 seconds until thoroughly combined and fine in texture. Sift mixture into a bowl to make sure no lumps remain. Discard any large chunks. For pumpkin-chai macarons, add spice blend to mixture. 3. Wipe down a metal bowl with lemon juice or white vinegar to eliminate any residue. Using a handheld mixer, beat egg whites and a pinch of salt on medium speed until foamy, about 30 seconds. 4. Slowly add in granulated sugar and beat on high until the eggs have formed firm peaks, about 3-5 minutes. The meringue should be shiny. 5. Add extract and food coloring to the meringue and beat until mixed. 6. Using a rubber spatula, fold in the confectioners’ sugar and almond flour mixture into egg whites, a little at a time. To fold, scrape around the bowl and then fold up and over from underneath the middle of the batter, being careful not to overmix. If you can draw a figure 8 in the batter with the spatula, it is ready. The goal is a smooth, sticky, and glossy mixture. 7. Place your piping bag or plastic bag inside a glass or jar and fold the edges over the rim. Transfer batter into the piping bag and secure the top by twisting and adding a rubber band.

14 | edible blue ridge WINTER 2022

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EDIBLE BLUE RIDGE WINTER 2022 | 17

Charlottesville’s Favorite Specialty Food Store

Crackers These rosemary crackers (Little Hat Creek Farm, Roseland) make for a sturdy founda tion to build a perfect bite. You can opt for a low-gluten board, or stop by your favor ite bakery for a baguette or batard, then add a sweet biscuit-like cracker to pair with a blue cheese or brie.

Cheese & Charcuterie Boards: 101 Building a cheese board brings out the creative side in us, but as we concentrate our energies on pies, roasts and holiday shop ping, the stress of entertaining can be overwhelming. With our friends at feast!, we have tips and tricks for composing the perfect cheese and charcuterie board for entertaining, which will allevi ate some of those holiday jitters. Supporting all things local, all items shown were produced in Virginia and are available to pur chase at the shop, making this a one-store shopping trip!

Select your cheese When choosing cheeses, think about milk and texture. Having sheep and goat milk cheeses alongside cow milk cheeses is an excellent op tion — not only because of their unique avors, but as an alternative for guests who may be lac tose-challenged. Having a mix of soft, hard and semi-hard cheeses creates a balance of texture and avors when paired with breads, crackers and accoutrements. If you have a strong or stinky cheese, consider adding a more mild- avored cheese (such as Monastery Gouda from Our Lady of Angels, Crozet) to the mix.

Your foundation A decorative, handmade cheese board is a beautiful touch, but any cutting board, slab of marble or tile, col lection of small boards, or even a sheath of craft paper (giving you the option to label each item) can be used.

Pickles We humbly believe no board is complete without at least one type of pickle. Cornichons are ador able, easy to handle and give you that crunch of salty acidity that might otherwise be missing.

18 | EDIBLE BLUE RIDGE WINTER 2022

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Jams & spreads Try to have all ve avor elements represented on your board, which makes building small bites a sensory-rich ex perience. Jams provide the sweet element while something like FEAST’s Vidalia Onion Jam also lends a hint of umami that pairs perfectly with the Twenty Paces Party On! Cheese (Charlottesville) and Little Hat Creek crackers. Whole grain mustard, applied in a swirl, and a drizzle of honey are other savory/sweet options to give balance to your board.

Charcuterie This trio of lonzino, coppa and nocchiona, produced by Terra di Si ena (Amelia Court House) and assembled by feast! erases the some times-stressful decision-making process. You can artfully arrange the slices in swirls, or fold them over or in quarters to give the board more height and depth.

Start with large items rst: Start with items that take up the most space (cheeses & meats). A good rule of thumb is to embrace odd numbers: perhaps two cheeses and three meats, or three and ve for larger parties. Odd numbers keep the board from appearing too symmetrical.

feast! 416West Main Street Charlottesville, Virginia 22903 Store Hours: Monday-Saturday: 10am - 5pm Lunch Cafè Hours: Monday-Saturday: 11am - 3pm Online Ordering of Catering, Groceries & Gifts www.feastvirginia.com 434. 244.7800 Finishing touches Aboard shouldbe eye-catching. Think color, texture, patterns. No tice how the cheeses point inward, directing your eye to the other elements on the board. The rich color of the meat is complement ed by the pale hue of Esmontonian from Caromont Farm (Esmont), and Sweety Drops — pickled baby peppers in their brine — give that pop of color that captivates your attention. An assortment of small bowls, jars and cute cutlery add are, and we recommend adding a sprig of any fresh herbs leftover from your holiday roasts for a hint of greenery. A cheese board can be a great conversation piece, especially when locally-sourced with care. Matched with a glass of bubbles, it’s the perfect start, or end, to a special evening.

Nuts/fresh & dried fruit Perfect for lling in the gaps and o ering a cornucopia of wintry delights, nuts and fruit are a must to round out your board. Marcona almonds are a classic addition and pair well with almost any cheese. Dried apricots add a pop of orange, and if you have any leftover holiday baking ingredients, try incorporat ing them; golden raisins, pecans or even chocolate make wonderful accoutrements.

EDIBLE BLUE RIDGE WINTER 2022 | 19

Photo by Sara Schober Photography

FROM THE LAND

Buried Treasure: Uncovering Virginia’s Newest Cash Crop WORDS & PHOTOS LISA ARCHER

When someone says the word “orchard,” visions of trees laden with ap ples, pears or peaches invariably come to mind. Perhaps you think of cherries or plums, or maybe a more esoteric fruit such as persimmon or quince. But tucked away on a gently sloping 6-acre parcel in Rixeyville, you won’t see any trees heavy with fruit; instead, Virginia’s latest cash crop is hidden in the soil. “We’ve had people come down from New York, we’ve had people come up from Florida. Last season we filled up so fast, we had a waitlist of 90 people,” Olivia Taylor, co-owner of Virginia Truffles LLC, a truffle orchard, tells me on a warm fall day. If you didn’t know truffles could be found in Virginia, you aren’t alone. Commercial truffle production is still in its infancy in many parts of the country (in 2007, Tennessee was the first state to successfully cul tivate truffles) and there are only a handful of producers in Virginia. Of those local producers, only two or three are at the stage where they can sell at a commercial level. However, truffle cultivation is gaining a steady following, enough that there is now an annual Virginia Truffle Festival and truffle hunts draw visitors from across the country. Virginia Truffles LLC is currently the largest producer of truffles in Virginia and a champion for growers across the U.S. It all started when Taylor’s parents, Pat and John Martin, were searching for a retirement venture. They became enthralled with truffle cultivation and consulted with experts in Australia and Europe. Their original business model was a truffle nursery, selling tree seedlings inoculated with the Pèrig ord truffle fungus, Tuber melanosporum , often referred to as the “black diamond” of truffles both for its value and flavor. At the same time they

started the nursery, the Martins also planted a one-acre plot with inocu lated oak trees as a proof of concept plan. “From the get-go that was the variety because there has been a lot of success with cultivation. Truffles are a fickle species as far as there are some species that are easier to cultivate,” says Taylor. “We’d love to do the Italian white truffle but there’s been no luck with the exception of a couple farms in France that have ever had any success cultivating them.” Taylor and her parents were looking to source to mid-Atlantic grow ers, particularly those in North Carolina and Virginia. “There are a lot of farmers — particularly in North Carolina — that were originally to bacco farmers and because tobacco is sort of, you know, passé at this point … they were looking for alternative crops,” says Taylor. So, what is a truffle and why are truffle orchards on the rise? A truf fle, in short, is the fruiting body of a fungus. The truffle fungus grows beneath the earth, forming a symbiotic relationship with a tree (the spe cies of tree varies from oaks, to hazelnuts, to pines, depending on species of truffle); the fungus lives on the roots of the tree, taking up nutrients for it and, in turn, the tree feeds the fungus sugars produced through photosynthesis. Much like there are different types of mushrooms, there are different types of truffle, all with their own unique umami flavor. Traditionally as sociated with Michelin-starred restaurants, truffles are found on tasting menus fromDecember through March (the typical truffle season), often shaved over decadent dishes such as risotto, duck, or even ice cream. But in recent years, truffle-infused ingredients have made their way to com modity items as well, such as popcorn, potato chips and cheese.

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Over time, Virginia Truffles LLC has evolved away from the nursery aspect to a true truffle orchard, selling truffles to local restau rants and the public, holding truffle hunts dur ing the season, and training truffle-hunting dogs. Many truffle growers and hunters spend upwards of $6,000 on a truffle hunting canine. Certain breeds, such as Logotto Romagnolos, have bloodlines that could match a horse slated to win the Triple Crown. Taylor, however, looks a little closer to home when she brings on a new dog to train. “They’re all rescues. I don’t look for a spe cific breed; I look for this drive to dig. They just have to be really persistent, high-energy and be really food-driven, and usually that works pretty well … I don’t sell dogs. I’m not in that business; these are our family as well,” Taylor says, as the dogs bark in the distance. “I know growers here in the states that have flown over to Italy, to Croatia, to pick up puppies, and you know, everybody is different, everybody oper ates their orchards differently, but there are a lot of dogs here that need homes.” Taylor, whose background is in environ mental science and livestock management, started training truffle dogs by practicing with her former in-laws’ dog who needed a job. She soaked tennis balls in truffle oil and taught the labrador to retrieve them. After the dog knew to respond to the truffle-scented balls, Taylor brought the dog to a woman in Luray who trains scent dogs for U.S. customs. Taylor has since trained five truffle dogs. Currently, Na dine, a grizzled hound dog, is her full-time truffle hunter, while Pozzi and Harley are still in training. As we stroll through the orchard, I notice trees of varying size and species. Taylor — who also consults for new orchards— encourages growers to plant a variety of trees. One reason there are only a few producing truffle orchards in Virginia is because others monocropped their orchards, planting just one species of tree, the Eastern filbert (hazelnut). The orchards were then completely wiped out by the Eastern filbert blight. Taylor has planted four types of oak, and a few filberts, to lessen the risk of dis ease. This makes sense, as a truffle orchard is the definition of a long-term investment. Most

Opposite:Taylor points out where an animal has been digging for truffles.Top: An imported black truffle. Bottom: Geese and ducks help keep insect populations in check.

up the slope of the orchard. “The French used to think it was a burn but it’s not; the truffle fungus produces an herbicidal chemical that pushes back the grass to eliminate competitive fungus.” Two geese, Lucrezia and Lutetia, come up behind us, making their presence known with assertive honks. Taylor keeps ducks, geese, chickens and sheep, and they all contribute to the wellness of the orchard. In the spring, af ter truffle season has passed, the sheep graze the orchard, keeping the grass and the weeds in check and providing manure, while the fowl help with insect control. A stream flows quietly through the bottom of the property and Taylor lets native species flourish, encouraging birds to frequent the area. “The idea is to have a lot of biodiversity, to keep the environment healthy,” explains Taylor.

truffle orchards in the mid-Atlantic only start producing truffles between six to eight years of age, and won’t reach commercial production levels until year fifteen. “It was eight years for us. We had friends in from North Carolina and Australia. It was late February — late for the season, and all of a sudden Nadine almost pulled my arm out of socket. When there’s a truffle there you can smell it, the soil smells really strong, so I was like, OH MY GOD!!! Our friend was videotap ing it and my mom gets the truffle and my step dad, he pops the champagne. It was the best feeling ever.” Taylor points out a circle of earth around a Japanese oak that is clear of grass. “That’s the truffle fungus doing that, they call it a brûlè — burn in French — there are some more pronounced ones up here,” she says as we walk

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From left:Taylor with her dogs Pozzi, Harley, and Nadine. Oaks are the preferred trees for cultivating black truffles. A breaching black truffle.

We spot a few breaching truffles, pushing out from the earth before fully ripe. Taylor points out their darker, veined skin to me as she carefully places earth back over them. In anoth er area, an animal has been clearly digging at a breaching truffle. Raccoons and groundhogs are frequent pests, and Taylor employs someone to trap and transport the animals far from the orchard’s vicinity. Another problem truffle growers face is competition amongst the truffles themselves. Truffles require two mating partners in order to reproduce, but often one will outcompete the other, halting growth. To remediate this, Taylor grinds up small truffle pieces, adding them to water to create a slurry, which she sprays near trees that haven’t produced in a season, thus en couraging new mating and growth. Taylor doesn’t use foliar sprays or amend the soil, with the exception of adding lime. Vir ginia soils often have a pH of around 6, while the fungus thrives in soils with a pH of 8. Tay lor adds lime to the soil, which “sweetens’’ it. Certain species of fungus cannot thrive under these new soil conditions, and so, Tuber mela nosporum takes their place. With the amended soil, growers in Virginia, North Carolina and Tennessee have discovered the emergence of a native Appalachian truffle, smaller in appear ance than the Périgord most growers cultivate. Knobby, scrunched and deeply veined, a truffle doesn’t look like much at first, but the flavor is unlike anything else. Earthy, pungent,

also how that product affects your trees; for me it’s really interesting. I’ve always loved to farm and I love the concept of a biodynamic environ ment where everything is working together.” With truffle cultivation still being in its in fancy, it means Taylor knows most of the com munity, trading tips and advice with growers in Australia, Oregon, France and even New Jersey. “The truffle world is small and large at the same time, you end up meeting everyone, eventu ally,” Taylor says. Asked if she worries about competition her response is immediate and emphatic: “The more people producing truffles, the more the industry is going to expand, be cause right now, we’re so tiny, no one is paying attention to us. There’s no grant money, there’s no funding for research, there’s no funding for organizations to help growers. All of the organi zations — whether regional or national — are self-funded and that, that’s difficult.” There’s room to grow in this industry, es pecially in Virginia. Former tobacco farmers might start truffle orchards, and this is a mar ket ripe for agritourism, which benefits not only one farm but the businesses that surround it and the community at large. This is a crop that can be explored, celebrated and expanded upon … Virginia Truffle kettle corn, anyone?

with a hint of sweetness (think dark chocolate) if you’re tasting the Pèrigord variety, it’s easy to see why this strange “fruit” is coveted by chefs across the world. Once only a foraged food, cul tivation has seen truffles become more acces sible to at-home cooks. Between the months of December and March Virginia Truffles holds truffle hunts on weekends, welcoming guests to hunt the truffles alongside Nadine and then enjoy a truffle-centric meal over an open fire. Truffles are also available to purchase in person or online, and a few restaurants (Three Black smiths, Early Mountain Vineyards, The Inn at Little Washington) in the area feature truffles on their menus. Taylor suggests storing truffles in a jar with eggs. The porous shells allow the eggs to absorb the truffle flavor and the eggs provide enough moisture to keep the truffle from drying out and losing its pungency. (Rice, which is often used in restaurants to store truffles in, is too dry an environment for a truffle to be stored in for more than a day or two.)The truffley eggs make for a delightful soft scramble and are a favorite of Taylor and her family. As we sniff a jar containing truffles and eggs, I tell Taylor it seems as if she loves the field she’s found herself in. “Oh, I do. It’s fascinating on a scientific level; I love the dynamic the fun gus has with the environment, how the entire environment plays a role in your product, but

To learn more and purchase truffle hunt tickets, please visit: www.virginiatruffle.com.

edible blue ridge WINTER 2022 | 23

Yield: 6 Servings Wild Chanterelle Mushroom Tartine with Black Truf�le “Three Ways” FROM THE LAND

Black Truf e Butter Ingredients: ½ pound whole butter, tempered 2 tablespoons black truf e (about 1 ounce), nely chopped Method: 1. Using a stand mixer with a paddle attachment, cream butter on low-medium speed for about 2 minutes. 2. Turn off mixer and scrape butter down from sides of mixing bowl. Add remaining ingredients and, on low speed, mix until fully incorporated (about 1 minute). 3. With a rubber spatula, transfer butter to a small bowl or deli container and set aside at room temperature for later use. 1 ½ teaspoons truf e oil 1 teaspoon kosher salt

Black Truf e Purée Ingredients: 1 teaspoon white truf e oil 1 teaspoon shallot, roughly chopped ½ cup black truf e (about 3 ounces), roughly chopped 1 tablespoon Cognac ¼ cup parmesan cheese, grated

1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 ½ teaspoons sugar 1 ½ - 2 cups extra virgin olive oil

Method: 1. Using a medium size sauce pot on low-medium heat, add truf e oil and heat to a gentle smoking point. Add shallot and fresh truf e and sweat until shallot becomes translucent and tender (about 3 minutes). 2. Deglaze pot with Cognac and reduce to nearly au sec (dry). 3. Turn heat off and transfer mixture to a blender. Add parmesan, salt, sugar and 1 ½ cups olive oil. Blend on high for about 2 minutes or until truf e mixture is smooth (adding up to ½ cup olive oil as needed to ensure purée is as smooth as possible). 4) Transfer purée to a small bowl or deli container. Reserve purée at room temperature for later use.

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