Edible Blue Ridge Summer 2022

e second course arrived, small in appearance but long-lasting in memory. Of all the dishes we enjoyed that evening, this was perhaps my favorite (though I am always partial to the dishes that embrace a humble vegetable). A celebration of all things spring, marinated and grilled asparagus was the keystone; the slight char from the grill gently

acidity, light floral notes of peach and apricot blossom, and a smooth, creamy mouthfeel — our favorite pairing of the evening.

A sauvignon blanc accompanied the asparagus course, new world notes of grass and lime zest riffing off the pungency of the ramps. e Veri tas Reserve (2019) was paired with the filet mignon. Unlike previous vintages, this is a cab franc heavy (45%) blend, with malbec, petit verdot and merlot adding to its velvety texture and blackberry-forward flavor. A lengthy barrel aging lends the wine notes of leather and a structure that stands up to the richness of the dish it was paired with. e dessert wine, a 2017 petit manseng, is, in a word, lovely, and we savored it as we enjoyed coffee and dessert. Shipman seems reluctant to leave the kitchen, clearly more at ease in front of a hot range than a linen-clad table full of guests, but he stopped in to say a quick hello and answer questions as we sipped our coffee. He’s hon est, humble, and clearly dedicated, qualities reflected in many great chefs and certainly in all who have the support and admiration of their staff. Again and again as we tasted our way through the menu, I kept thinking, subtle but supple. Balanced and prepared with intent . is is how I would describe Shipman’s style. e fourth and final course felt like pure, wholesome fun. Macerated strawberries lay atop a slightly-sweet, crumbly biscuit; a whipped cream and white chocolate ganache was piped on top of the berries in a Willy Wonka whimsical fashion. To finish the dish, a Pollock-esque splash of brilliant green basil added just the right amount of herbaceousness. As we finished our coffee and made ready to depart, the smell of freshly baked cookies made their way throughout the house. Sure enough, when we rounded the corner, a tray of them lay at the entrance, waiting for guests to either take them up to their rooms for an after-dinner snack, or enjoy on the drive home, which is exactly what we did.

encapsulated a pillow of pickled ramp crème fraîche that was posi tively luscious, accompanied by preserved lemon and a sparkling rhubarb vinaigrette. Reading through Veritas’ reviews before our reservation, I noted a handful of diners who thought the dishes unsubstantial, and, really, I can not imagine how anyone could leave unsatiated. e third course may not look large, but that comes down to the expert way in which it is plated. Instead of sprawling across the plate, smashed red potatoes are tightly tucked beneath a filet of Seven Hills grass fed beef. You cut into the steak as if cutting through a pat of butter. Cooked to a perfect medium rare, the juice from the beef waterfalls across creamed ramps, swirling

into the red wine sauce the dish is finished with. is dish is clearly the pièce de résistance of the meal and indulgent in both the flavors and the portion size. I’ve somehow described the majority of the meal without giving men tion to the wines! Oh, the wines! e pride of Virginia white wines, a viognier accompanied the first course. e delicious 2021 vintage by winemaker Emily Hodson met the shrimp and grits dish with a vibrant

Dinner reservations for e Farmhouse at Veritas are available Tuesdays Sundays at 6:30 p.m.

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