Edible Blue Ridge Summer 2022

Complimentary

Issue 48 Summer 2022

BLUE RIDGE edible Celebrating the food culture of Central & Southwestern Virginia ®

Roots & Refuge The Bees’ Needs • Gardens of Refuge • The Roots of Mixology

Member of Edible Communities

EDIBLE BLUE RIDGE SUMMER 2022 | 1

CONTENTS SUMMER 2022

4 FOOD FOR THOUGHT Editor’s Letter 8 SHARING THE BOUNTY

Features 10 THE BEES’ NEEDS

Spikenard Honeybee Sanctuary & Farm creates a refuge where bees can thrive

16 GARDENS OF REFUGE

Recent immigrants preserve their food cultures while putting down new roots

14 CHEF’S TABLE

The Farmhouse at Veritas

23 EDIBLE EXCURSIONS Roanoke 26 MOVERS & SHAKERS The Roots of Mixology Blackwater Bitters 28 LIQUID ASSETS Revalation Vineyards 31 WHAT’S IN SEASON 32 LIVING LOCAL 42 FARMERS MARKET LISTINGS 43 LAST BITE Watercolor by Danica Rose

Recipes In This Issue 27 Georgia Porch Sipper 34 Fruitless Smoothie 36 Herbed Potato Salad

EDIBLE BLUE RIDGE SUMMER 2022 | 3 37 Award-Winning Tomato Sandwich 38 Pork Tenderloin with Seasonal Fruit 40 Fried Chicken Tacos with Peach Salsa On the cover: Bir Guiaba hills potatoes at his New Roots garden plot (photo by Jesse Feldberg) This page: Award-WinningTomato Sandwich, pg. 37 (photo by Lisa Archer)

FOOD FOR THOUGHT Editor’s Letter

PUBLISHER+EDITOR Lisa Archer lisa@edibleblueridge.com BLUE RIDGE edible ®

Pump kin I T’S SUMMER, friends. e season of abundance. Of grill outs and backyard hangs, bonfires and beach trips. To matoes and sweet corn and baskets full of farmers market products. is is the summer of my garden. As a first time home owner, I have long dreamed of having a garden all my own. One where, in the early hours of the day, I could wander out — still in my sweats or pj’s — and pluck some produce for breakfast or do a bit of weeding as I sip my coffee. Now, that sweet little dream has become a reality. I’ve planted kale, swiss chard and cabbage. e carrots are grow ing swiftly downward, and a few weeks ago I hilled the pota

DESIGNER Jeremy Cohen

COPY EDITOR Michelle Acker

ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Jesse Feldberg ads@edibleblueridge.com CONTACT US: Have a story you’d like to see featured in Edible Blue Ridge? Send us your ideas! info@edibleblueridge.com Edible Blue Ridge P.O. Box 3089 Roanoke, VA 24015

toes. e beans are twining their way along a new fence, and we’ve got our fingers crossed for a bumper crop of pickling cucumbers. Our 12 tomato plants are trellised and, of course, there are the flowers: a whole bank of wildflowers intended to attract pollinators to our little oasis, and a bed of herbs out front to entice them further. I’m lucky. As a former New Yorker, I used to think owning a home, or any form of “real” (read: hands in the earth, turning over stone) gardening was beyond my reach. Home ownership in NYC is usually reserved for those a few income brackets above mine, and any parcel of land is quickly swallowed by development. But, by some miracle, I’ve got my little patch of land here in the abundant Blue Ridge Mountains, where I am trying my hardest to grow food to sustain myself and my partner in the coming seasons. And really, shouldn’t we all have access to a little space to call our own? Roots and Refuge is the theme that emerged for this issue. Inside these pages you will learn about organizations helping people to find their communities and put down roots. A sanctuary to the south is devoted to protecting pollinators, and a winery to the north is pas sionate about keeping young locals in the industry. And, because it is summer with local food galore, there is a wealth of recipes to cook for family, friends and new neighbors. We should not disengage from the crises happening throughout the world, humani tarian or environmental. Rather, we should educate ourselves and reflect on how they affect us and our communities — no matter the distance. It is up to all of us to do our part to meet these challenges, to help when and where we are able, and, if we cannot act, we can surely listen: with open hearts and minds.

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ank you for supporting local in all its many forms,

© 2022 Edible Blue Ridge LLC. All rights reserved.

Lisa

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BLUE RIDGE edible Celebrating the food culture of Central Virginia Number 36 Fall 2017 FREE

BLUE RIDGE edible Celebrating the food culture of Central Virginia Number 37 Winter 2018 FREE

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CONTRIBUTORS

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Lisa Archer is a writer, baker, and the editor of edible Blue Ridge. She believes imagination, curiosity and compassion are a person’s greatest assets. She loves a good story. Whether it is ingrained in a loaf of bread, told over a frothy pint, or sprouting from a burgeoning farm, she wants to hear yours. Susanna Byrd has loved the land of central Virginia her whole life, and though she’s spent time on farms from Ohio down to Patagonia, she’s always found her way back home. She was a 2013-14 fellow of the Allegheny Mountain Institute and has an MFA in Creative Writing from Hollins University. She now stewards a small, ecological flower farm west of Charlottesville, Virginia. Jesse Feldberg is a lifelong Roanoker with a penchant for seeking out the best food wherever he finds himself. He is an avid baseball fan (Go O’s!), enjoys making all kinds of fermented foods, and wants to pet your dog. Matt Hovey has been the Beale’s Brewery Pitmaster for two years. His interest in BBQ comes from years of living in Kansas City, and from the many BBQ pits there. He enjoys a mix of Texas, Kansas City and North Carolina styles. Layla Khoury-Hanold is a journalist who has written for Food52, Food Network, Refinery29, e Chicago Tribune, and Vine Pair. She’s working on her debut memoir. Follow her food and writing journeys at www.wordswithlayla.com and on Instagram @words_with_layla. Grant Kitrell is a writer, illustrator, and musician. Grant is the Poetry Editor at Flock Literary Journal and currently serves as the Director of Academic Services and Writing Program at Randolph College. He was the winner of the Philip Booth Poetry Prize, and his writing has appeared or is forthcoming at e Common, Salt Hill, Split Rock Review, and e Carolina Quarterly, among others, and in his collection of prose poems, Let’s Sit Down, Figure is Out, (Groundhog Poetry Press). He lives in Lynchburg, VA with his partner Hannah and their pups, Margot and Hap. Christina Nifong is a freelance writer, marketing manager at the Ro anoke-based Local Environmental Agriculture Project (LEAP), and mother to three hungry eaters.

Josh Nolan is a Roanoke based muralist and painter.

Danica Rose is an artist and food illustrator living in Crozet, Virginia. She loves capturing the beauty of a just-picked vegetable or a favorite dish right out of the oven. Follow her on Instagram @morningstarwatercolor

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SHARING THE BOUNTY

Please make a point of supporting these locally owned businesses in our community

Remedy Burger in Staunton

e newly-opened Remedy Burger is already sizzling with a steady stream of customers. Benjamin and Lauren Reed, owners of the beloved Green Room and veteran members of the American Shakespeare Center, conceptualized the restaurant one evening when craving burgers for dinner. e restaurant is located in the former Laughing Bird Pho and Beverly Diner location, with its old tin ceiling and historical architecture, and is named Remedy as a nod to both the historical influences of the building (think apothecary vibes) and to the Reeds philosophy: “sometimes a burger, fries and friends is the remedy everyone needs.” e menu features classic American burgers along with some specials. “We will definitely keep it simple and straightforward, while trying to allow ourselves the ability to have some fun,” says Benjamin Reed. Fresh ground beef is sourced from local farms such as Seven Hills (Lynchburg) and Burner’s Beef (Luray). Vegetarian burgers are also offered, and Remedy is currently developing a vegan patty as well. e bun offerings are a mix of classic Martin’s potato rolls and locally-sourced sesame buns from Seasons’ Yield Farm (Raphine); a gluten free option is also available. Guests order with QR codes, selecting their burger and bun options. French fries and build your-own wedge salads are the featured sides, and for beverages, guests can choose from a rotating tap list of craft beer, wines, ciders and cocktails. www.remedyburger.com

Kat the Farmer Salads Looking for a healthy and easy local lunch? Craving crunchy vegetables? Check out these salad kits from Kat the Farmer. Having recently celebrated one year in business, Kat Johnson and her colorful salads might already be familiar to you; they feature greens and veggies along with edible flowers, local free-range eggs and her signature dressings. “In every job I’ve had,” Johnson says, “I’ve been trying to figure out what grew well in this area and what is profitable for the farm. … Salad greens, tomatoes and herbs are really productive and profitable. To stretch my business further I realized that I could certify a home kitchen and process salads and salad dressings too.” Despite its small size — a quarter acre — the Certified Naturally Grown farm produces a bounty. What she doesn’t grow herself, Johnson sources from neighboring farms. You can purchase a salad subscription for yourself or your office, and Johnson will even deliver the salads to your door (for a nominal fee). is spring, Johnson also launched a reusable salad container option, further committing to sustainable options. “It’s super important to my customers,” Johnson says. “Even if it’s one bag or container, it helps.” Pick-up locations include Johnson’s farminCheck, VA; BlacksburgBagel Bakery (Blacksburg); Hustle/Haven (Roanoke); and the self-serve fridge at the Floyd Farmers Market. Salads and dressings can also be purchased at the Blacksburg Farmers Market every Saturday, and at the Roanoke Food Coop. www.katthefarmer.com

8 | EDIBLE BLUE RIDGE SUMMER 2022

Pop’s Ice Cream & Soda Bar Since opening their doors to the Grandin Village community in 2006, Anna Robertson and Brandon Davis — the wife and husband team behind Pop’s Ice Cream & Soda Bar — have been serving up scoops, shakes, floats, sandwiches, and smiles (both real, and those pressed into their beloved potato rounds) from their 1950s-style soda bar to all of Roanoke and its visitors. After over a decade and a half, however, they are ready to pass the scoop, if you will. Come July, the keys to the former Roanoke City Library building will change hands, but the neighborhood staple will continue on for yet another busy summer. ough the masses pay most attention to the fresh ice cream, both Davis and Robertson recommend the Read Mountain Melt as their favorite summer offering. Named after the nearby mountain on which Robertson’s grandfather lived and grew the summer tomatoes for Pop’s, this sandwich features yellow tomatoes (now sourced from ornfield Farm in Fincastle and Riverstone Farm in Floyd), fresh basil, red onions, a homemade garlic-feta dressing, and provolone cheese, grilled on fresh sourdough. We would like to thank Brandon and Anna for their years of infectious positivity, delicious ice cream, and happy, lactose-fueled memories, and we wish them the very best in their next chapter.

FT Valley Farm

After hiking Old Rag with your family, why not continue your time outdoors by visiting a pick-your-own orchard? Midsummer marks the beginning of FT Valley Orchard’s second season. Owners Algis & Kathy Penkiunas purchased the 44-acre parcel with dreams of turning it into a working orchard. After years spent grafting, planting and planning, the Penkiunases saw their dream come to fruition last year as they opened their gates to the public. e historic property still has old apple trees, dating from the late 1800s, hidden amongst its hollers, and everywhere you turn the orchard is brimming with growth; the newly-renovated market space will sell farm products including fresh apple cider, apple butter and cuts of grass-fed beef, as well as locally-crafted artisan products. “It fills my heart with so much joy to see this beautiful piece of land grow into a haven for those in our community. With the orchard, we’re getting back to our roots of good old fashioned fun,” says Kathy Penkiunas. Peaches and nectarines mark the start of the you-pick season, with some early apple varieties available in August. e orchard will remain open until the end of November, after which apples may be purchased on an as-need basis by contacting market manager Meredith Gilmore (Meredith@FTValleyfarm.com). In addition to the cattle farm and orchard, the Penkiunases are dedicated to strengthening their ties within the community. Last year, they donated 1500 pounds of fruit to local charities, helping those experiencing food insecurity. In the fall, they hope to host school field trips, showing children where the fruit found in their lunchboxes is actually grown and harvested. Visit: www.ftvalleyfarm.com/visit-us/ for up to date seasonal hours

EDIBLE BLUE RIDGE SUMMER 2022 | 9

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The Bees’ Needs

Spikenard Honeybee Sanctuary & Farm creates a refuge where bees can thrive

LAYLA KHOURY-HANOLD

WORDS

LISA ARCHER & LAYLA KHOURY-HANOLD

PHOTOS

H ONEYBEES, black swallowtail butterflies and ruby-throated hummingbirds flit from one cluster of yellow dandelions to another. Lush patches of green mountain mint and tree blos soms are flourishing. e sun warms the piercing blue sky. Spring has ar rived at Spikenard Honeybee Sanctuary & Farm, a non-profit set on 41 acres in Floyd, Virginia, just in time for the annual Dandelion Festival. Mid-April marks the arrival of the honeybees’ first nectar flow, kicking off a season of abundance and rebirth. Spikenard staff member Jody Keating greets visitors near the en trance, excitedly informing them that the farm has just had its first swarm. “It’s one hive giving birth to a new hive, and it helps clean out the [old] hive,” she says. “For us, it’s a joyful celebration.” At the visitor’s yurt, there’s a festive snack table set with dandelion pesto, dandelion petal butter, crackers and bee tea. Spikenard’s director, Alex Tuchman, and farm manager, Anthea van Geloven, are crouched next to a wooden box at the base of a nearby pine tree, where the swarm landed after flying out of one of the hives near the snack table. Tuchman has already transferred the clump to the box; van Geloven coaxes some stragglers with a long gray feather. Swarming is central to Spikenard’s small-scale beekeeping philos ophy and celebrated as “the most vital and sustainable method of ex panding the apiary, breeding queens, and selling bees/hives.” It’s a stark contrast to the approach taken by many conventional beekeepers, who discourage swarming to keep the hives as big as possible and promote larger honey harvests, and who kill and replace the queen every year. At a time when exploitative beekeeping practices, mites, viruses and cli

mate change are causing high colony loss rates, the need for a honeybee sanctuary couldn’t be greater. Since 2012, Spikenard’s biodynamic bee keeping practices, lush acreage of bee forage and holistic approach have proven critical to fostering healthy honeybee populations and supporting their role as essential pollinators. “We felt the need to create a safe place on Earth where the bees could truly thrive and where we really approach the bees with an attitude of service,” Tuchman says. “When you start asking the bees what they need, it’s an amazing exploration of learning that we’re all joining in on. But our methods of beekeeping really serve the health and the instinct of the bees first.” is methodology starts with honoring each hive as an individu al. So much so that, Tuchman says, each hive has its own personality, defined in part by their relationship to the beekeeper. “If a beehive is worked with in a gentle way, [the bees are] going to feel very comfortable with the interaction,” Tuchman says. “But if it’s a one-way street — like the beekeeper’s got his spacesuit on and he’s going in without really lis tening and receiving feedback— then the bees can be easily traumatized or get defensive in that relationship.” Tuchman goes on to explain that the latter approach fosters learned aggression, which, whether it’s incited by the beekeeper or by a traumatic event — like a bear knocking over a hive—can be passed down through generational memory. “We’ll be eight generations later and still this hive has this defensiveness because of something that happened a while ago,” Tuchman says, noting that Spikenard keeps track of their bees’ lineage. Another thing that runs in the family, and informs hive personal

EDIBLE BLUE RIDGE SUMMER 2022 | 11

tending; beekeepers open them about 12 times a year. ese bees are very productive; they need to consume about 50 pounds of honey to sustain the energy needed to keep the hive at 95 degrees throughout the winter. As a result, these hives yield more honey for harvesting. Sun hives are more efficient, and so well-insu lated that the bees need only about 15 pounds of honey to survive the winter. While they produce less honey for harvesting, these bees swarm a lot, creating new hives. Spikenard’s holistic approach to operating a sanctuary is also supported by the notion that the land and the bees are one. “It’s sort of like an expanding abundance,” Tuchman says. “Ev ery year that we have bees on our land, there are more dandelions, there’s more clover, and that means there’s more for everybody. Up and down the food chain, if the pollinator-plant relationship is not healthy, the rest of it comes into question, too.” is means planting Spikenard’s acres with ample bee forage to provide nectar and pollen for the honeybees and other native pollina tors. Spikenard’s bottom field is planted with carbohydrate-rich foods that can be stored and consumed in larger quantities, including hedgerows of hazelnuts, elderberries, pussywil low, fields of buckwheat, yellow mustard, and several varieties of clover. “ at’s sort of the all-you-can-eat-buffet down there. When there’s a whole acre of something in bloom, it’s just a highway from up here to down there,” Tuchman says, gestur ing from the top field to the meadows below. He describes the upper fields as a “medicine cabinet,” where the bees forage the herb gar den’s rows of sage, thyme, lavender, oregano, mint, rosemary, echinacea, boneset, and com frey, which provide micronutrients and trace minerals. Spikenard staff utilize these herbs to make a healing bee tea to support the honey bees’ immune systems. Spikenard’s landscape also includes a small pond to provide water for the bees, which is necessary to ferment their pollen. e frogs, birds and praying mantids are happy here, too (turns out that a lot of animals like to eat bees, Tuchman says). e thriving ecosystem is re flected in the up to 40 percent increase in the population of ants, who work to decompose and recycle dead bees. is diversity of macro- and micronutri ents, as well as access to water, are crucial to the honeybee’s production. “Honey is the most im portant food for the bees. So, we really reserve that for them because we know how healthy

and strong bees are that are raised on their own honey.” By comparison, conventional beekeepers maximize honey harvests by feeding their hon eybees sugar and providing plastic foundations, which forces the bees to build straight combs to speed up the honey harvest. (Tuchman points out that even honey sold at a farmers market is often made by bees that are fed sugar.) Spikenard takes a conservative approach to harvesting honey. “ e honey, the wax, the propolis—all these incredible healing gifts that the bees share with us are taken only when there’s extra,” Tuchman says. And what a gift it is. Each jar of Spike nard’s glossy, luscious honey represents nectar frommore than 400 flowers. It tastes like honey on steroids: robust, floral, and rich, with sweet caramel and honeycomb notes. Spikenard re serves some jars for tastings; others are retailed. e honey is viewed as more of a donation from the bees, centering Spikenard’s focus on pro ducing healthy, resilient bees. One measure of success is that honeybees at Spikenard have a survival rate of 88 percent, compared to the national average of 65 percent. A queen bee’s natural life expectancy is about nine months; at Spikenard, it’s six years. But Spikenard staff recognize that they can’t cel ebrate this achievement in a vacuum. Produc ing thriving, healthy bees also makes it pos sible to sell starter colonies to other sanctuaries, which helps generate income for the nonprofit to thrive. ere are currently 14 other sanctuar ies modeled after Spikenard, and around 3,000 students who attend their online or in-person workshops and lectures. (Taking a class is a pre requisite to purchasing bees from Spikenard.) “Not only can we do it here, but some body can feel authentic in their own expres sion of it in their own community,” Tuchman says. “ ey can take the similar principles, but then adapt it to whatever those local needs are. ere need to be more safe places across our earth that are consciously cultivated in service of pollinators.”

ity, is how bees construct their wax comb. Some build their combs to be straight and geomet ric, others lean toward a curvy, artistic style. e way bees build their combs also influences which of the eight types of hive the beekeepers select. Bees that build straighter combs do well in rectangular boxes called Langstroth hives, which can hold colonies of up to 60,000 bees at peak season. To protect these hives from being toppled over by bears, the boxes are strapped to a wooden platform that’s anchored to the ground. To maximize sun exposure, hive open ings are oriented to face south and east, with wind breaks behind each hive. Bees that cre ate curvier combs, by contrast, naturally cre ate pockets of warmth that allow the bees to conserve their energy. ese colonies do well in round hives, like an egg-shaped sun hive con structed from hand-made woven baskets and covered with clay and cow dung paste, which create a four-inch wall of insulation. Langstroth hives require more regular Top photo: Spikenard Director AlexTuchman, photo by Layla Khoury-Hanold

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CHEF’S TABLE

The Farmhouse at Veritas

It’s a warm spring evening. e breeze is slight, just enough to ruffle your shirt or gently tousle your hair. e sun is brilliant as it makes its descent, spreading a lush golden hue across a broad oak tree. To the right of the tree stands a large white brick house, which almost glows as it falls within the sun’s path.

Opened in 2012 and designed by owner Patricia Hodson, e Farmhouse has 6 inviting bedrooms upstairs, where guests can stay while they tour the wineries of Nelson and surrounding counties. Originally intended for guests of the inn, the restaurant gained a steady following of culinary admirers. Now, on any given evening, the Farmhouse may serve some 50 guests, who enjoy a 4-course meal and wine pairing. On this late April evening, my husband and I enjoyed a first course of North Carolina shrimp, expertly seared over stone-ground grits with a touch of aged gouda folded into them. A staple of many restaurants in the south, we’ve all experienced a shrimp and grits dish that is unbalanced: grits that are drenched in so much butter it pools along the edges of the bowl, shrimp boiled to rubber and so much cheese grated over the dish that it stretches a web from dish, to fork, to mouth. At e Farmhouse at Veritas, this dish is subtle. e shrimp are tender, nestled against one another like sleeping swans. An island of grits has just enough texture to hold the melted gouda while complementing the ramp-smoked fresno broth that encircles it. e plate is finished with pickled spring onions, the acidity of the onion balancing the weight of the cheese. Executive Chef Andy Shipman’s menu often reflects what’s in season. In April, ramps reigned the menu (and really, with a season that barely lasts a month, how could they not?), making an appearance in all three savory courses. Sometimes an ingredient can be overused to the point that a dish seems uninspired: not so under the expertise of Shipman’s cooking.

We’ve come to dine at e Farmhouse at Veritas.

Upon entering, it feels as if we are being welcomed into someone’s home. e maître d’ takes our names, hands my husband and I each a glass of sparkling wine, and invites us to enjoy the grounds until it is time for dinner. As we stroll through the house to the porch out back, I notice how every room is set for guests, each evoking its own personality. e porch leads to a gravel path, along which a large tent is set for dinner. Further down the path lies an herb garden and, of course, grapevines. An orange tabby cat makes his rounds, curling around our legs and then sauntering off. In the past decade there has been a growing trend among wineries to offer a dining experience that matches the caliber of their wines. Veritas Vineyard and Winery, known as a leader in the Virginia wine industry, has again placed themselves at the forefront of their industry, this time with the tasting menu e Farmhouse at Veritas offers.

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e second course arrived, small in appearance but long-lasting in memory. Of all the dishes we enjoyed that evening, this was perhaps my favorite (though I am always partial to the dishes that embrace a humble vegetable). A celebration of all things spring, marinated and grilled asparagus was the keystone; the slight char from the grill gently

acidity, light floral notes of peach and apricot blossom, and a smooth, creamy mouthfeel — our favorite pairing of the evening.

A sauvignon blanc accompanied the asparagus course, new world notes of grass and lime zest riffing off the pungency of the ramps. e Veri tas Reserve (2019) was paired with the filet mignon. Unlike previous vintages, this is a cab franc heavy (45%) blend, with malbec, petit verdot and merlot adding to its velvety texture and blackberry-forward flavor. A lengthy barrel aging lends the wine notes of leather and a structure that stands up to the richness of the dish it was paired with. e dessert wine, a 2017 petit manseng, is, in a word, lovely, and we savored it as we enjoyed coffee and dessert. Shipman seems reluctant to leave the kitchen, clearly more at ease in front of a hot range than a linen-clad table full of guests, but he stopped in to say a quick hello and answer questions as we sipped our coffee. He’s hon est, humble, and clearly dedicated, qualities reflected in many great chefs and certainly in all who have the support and admiration of their staff. Again and again as we tasted our way through the menu, I kept thinking, subtle but supple. Balanced and prepared with intent . is is how I would describe Shipman’s style. e fourth and final course felt like pure, wholesome fun. Macerated strawberries lay atop a slightly-sweet, crumbly biscuit; a whipped cream and white chocolate ganache was piped on top of the berries in a Willy Wonka whimsical fashion. To finish the dish, a Pollock-esque splash of brilliant green basil added just the right amount of herbaceousness. As we finished our coffee and made ready to depart, the smell of freshly baked cookies made their way throughout the house. Sure enough, when we rounded the corner, a tray of them lay at the entrance, waiting for guests to either take them up to their rooms for an after-dinner snack, or enjoy on the drive home, which is exactly what we did.

encapsulated a pillow of pickled ramp crème fraîche that was posi tively luscious, accompanied by preserved lemon and a sparkling rhubarb vinaigrette. Reading through Veritas’ reviews before our reservation, I noted a handful of diners who thought the dishes unsubstantial, and, really, I can not imagine how anyone could leave unsatiated. e third course may not look large, but that comes down to the expert way in which it is plated. Instead of sprawling across the plate, smashed red potatoes are tightly tucked beneath a filet of Seven Hills grass fed beef. You cut into the steak as if cutting through a pat of butter. Cooked to a perfect medium rare, the juice from the beef waterfalls across creamed ramps, swirling

into the red wine sauce the dish is finished with. is dish is clearly the pièce de résistance of the meal and indulgent in both the flavors and the portion size. I’ve somehow described the majority of the meal without giving men tion to the wines! Oh, the wines! e pride of Virginia white wines, a viognier accompanied the first course. e delicious 2021 vintage by winemaker Emily Hodson met the shrimp and grits dish with a vibrant

Dinner reservations for e Farmhouse at Veritas are available Tuesdays Sundays at 6:30 p.m.

EDIBLE BLUE RIDGE SUMMER 2022 | 15

Recent immigrants preserve their food cultures while putting down new roots Gardens of Refuge

Lisa Archer PHOTOS

Jesse Feldberg & Courtesy of the IRC Charlottesville

WORDS

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D EO RAI is feeding her chickens. It’s early spring and the young hens are running about the garden, scratching up small clouds of dust and the remainder of last sea son’s vegetation. We are standing in one of her many garden plots at a New Roots community garden — a stretch of some eight acres, four under cultivation — bordering Azalea Park in Charlottesville. Moores Creek winds its way in front of us, marking the edge of the gar den and the beginning of the park. A rooster crows impatiently in the corner of the plot, and, as I look more closely at the birds, some appear quite scrawny. “ ose aren’t young, they’re old. e man I bought [the hens] from thought I wanted meat chickens,” Rai explains to me, with the assistance of eresa Allan, manager of the New Roots program. Allan is translating for myself and Rai: Allan speaking in Hindi, Rai in Nepali. Both are using a mix of English (at the time of our interview, we were unable to find a Nepali translator who could meet in person) and though some words and idioms are lost, we are able to understand one another. Rai, originally from Bhutan, came to Char lottseville from Nepal in 2014 with her hus band and two children. “I like to garden.

IRC works in 40 countries and has offices in 26 cities across the U.S. “A lot of IRC work is on the ground,” Allan explains. “Crisis in tervention; short term work. e resettlement offices [such as the one in Charlottesville] are an opportunity for some longer-term support. Food security being top among them. A lot of people coming in have agrarian backgrounds, and want to have access to land, but generally they are settled in cities where there isn’t a lot of land,” says Allan. is is where New Roots steps in. In 2009, the pro gram started putting raised beds outside of refugee apartments. is worked for a short time, but then tenants and the program had to contend with landlords concerned about the potential unsightliness of the beds or perceived exploitation of utilities. So, New Roots sought an alternative, raising money and applying for grants to establish urban agriculture garden ing programs throughout the Charlottesville area. It took a little over seven years to build up the infrastructure, and now the program is in its eleventh season of established commu nity gardens. is season, some sixty families will be growing food in New Roots gardens. “Food security doesn’t mean just having enough calories, but [also] being able to find

Before, when we lived in Nepal and Bhutan, my father farmed the land: corn, rice, veg etables, ginger, turmeric. We had chickens, goats, ducks …” she tells me, as we walk across her fields discussing what she will grow in the upcoming season. Rai joined the New Roots Program in 2016. “We gave a workshop last week on how to keep chickens. We are currently working with a UVA architecture class. Students and gar deners are working together to design chicken coops as a project,” Allan explains as we duck under the low roof that protects the hens from raptors and racoons. Ideally, the coops the stu dents design will be modular, in the event the gardeners have to switch plots, and can also have a roof catchment for water, as water ac cess is another struggle the community gar dens face. is project, and others like it, are just some of the many ways the New Roots Pro gram of the International Rescue Committee (IRC) assists immigrants and refugees in the Charlottesville area. e IRC is a global humanitarian aid and relief organization that responds to world hu manitarian crises, like the crisis in Afghani stan and the war in Ukraine. Currently, the

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Above: Chef Mitchell Bereens (Lampo) prepares New Roots squash blossoms. Previous page: Bir Guiaba & SamTamang hill potatoes

the types of food that you want to eat, so they’re trying to grow things you can’t get at an Ameri can grocery market: the traditional crops that are grown in their homelands and are part of their cul ture,” says Allan. “By having access to those foods, they are able to maintain their culture through their food ways, and are able to teach their chil dren their culture as well.” Not only does New Roots provide refugees an outlet for maintaining their food culture, it helps share those cultures with the greater Char lottesville area. In 2016, New Roots launched the Micro-Producer Academy — training participants in how to grow to meet commercial food safety standards in the U.S. After completing the pro gram, the growers were connected to local chefs in the area. “ ere is a tremendous amount of care and love that they put into their food, and that’s kind of the same way, you know, that I like to cook, so it’s really been a great match to try and help one another out,” says Chef Adam Spaar of Orzo Kitchen & Wine Bar. “It felt really good to be do

ing something that benefited the community, where I could see it helping people that needed it.” Orzo was one of the first restaurants to purchase from the micro-producers, and is an avid support er. “In the beginning, there was a ton of produce I hadn’t had access to before. ey brought rattle snake beans, Kermit eggplants, bitter melon, purple long beans … even dahlia tubers, which I had never tried before. ey grow a bunch of different things that hadn’t been available to me from farmers in Vir ginia,” says Spaar. “It touches so close to the foundation of what we are trying to build here,” says Emerson Ross, head chef at Tonic. “Anything we can do to keep our money in the community and assist other people as they try and build their own business is something we focus on.” Chefs place orders via text messaging, as it is the easiest way to communicate when there may be a language barrier. At the end of each season, the chefs, growers, and New Roots program coordina tors debrief, discussing what grew well and what chefs could purchase more of if it were made avail

Top: Deo Rai. Above: Benjamin Maheshe tends to his birds at the New Roots garden near Azalea Park. Below:Tonic’s Ceci alla Nerano using New Roots produce: Photo by Shenandoah Imagery

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exposed to other cultures in that way, where we can chat about what is this, how are you going to use this, is there any cultural signifi cance to it, is really rewarding.” It’s not just the general public that is learning to identify and utilize the produce found at the New Roots stall; it’s professionals, too. Beloved Charlottesville restaurant Lampo is also a supporter of the New Roots program. During the previous growing season, chef Mitchell Bereens purchased produce weekly, sometimes several times a week. “Last year, the big one was the pumpkin blossoms. I came up with a pizza on the spot, put it on our social media and it just blew up, exploded,” recalls Bereens. It became so popular that Bereens was selling 5-10 times more of the blossom pizza than anything else on the menu. e producers were able to grow more, and the pizza stayed on the menu for the majority of the summer (look for the pizza’s return this season as soon as the squash begin to blossom). Other sellers at IX are already quite familiar with New Roots. Khadija Hemmati — owner of the popular Khadija’s Kitchen — immigrated to the U.S. in the fall of 2016, joining her mother and sisters in Charlottesville. “It was really helpful when I moved here. You know, when you move here from your original country to the United States, every body here is busy with their life … so even though I had my mom and I had my sisters, they had their own jobs, their citizenship classes or GED classes, but everyone would farm or garden together,” says Hemmati. “For me, and even for my kids, we didn’t have many ac tivities. We didn’t know the language, so we couldn’t go out as much and talk to other people. But with New Roots, it was stress relieving. We’d even have picnics when we farmed with the kids; it was almost like camping! We really enjoyed it.”

able. For example, the producer that sells to Orzo now grows more Mediterranean-style crops that fall in line with the menu: arugula, Chioggia beets, and kale. e pandemic halted the Micro-Producer Academy, but New Roots still trains micro-producers, and since the pandemic, a new opportunity has been presented to growers: e Farmers Market at IX. “It’s such a great place for a start-up business, as an incubator, be cause being a vendor at the farmer’s market is a low-cost entry level,” says Cecile Gorham, executive director of Market Central. New Roots provides the tent and has a collective booth; anyone that has a plot in the community gardens may utilize it, even if it is only one time. A grower may have an overabundance of tomatoes or cucumbers and sell at the market just one week, or a grower like Rai may be at the market every week. e cost of the market stall is di vided between whoever sells that day. In addition to the growers, vol unteers help man the stall every Saturday during the growing season. “It’s really good both ways. It’s good for the person trying to support themselves and it’s good for the community to see new veg etables and to see people working for themselves, that’s empower ing,” says Gorham. In many cultures, the market is a place to shop, not just for a few specialty items, but as your weekly grocery supply. Markets are a place of social gathering. In short, they build community. Providing the structural support for recent immigrants and refugees to par ticipate in and sell at markets helps them find a place in their new community. e foundations of all markets are as public spaces, to create a place where all feel welcome. “It was great to see the variety of things people would bring that were, you know, outside the normal American palate,” says volunteer Malcolm Augat. “Bitter melon, for example — just seeing people get

New Roots participants sell produce at the Farmers Market at IX

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Hemmati first worked at a dining hall at UVA. ere, Muslim students started ask ing her if she could prepare them halal meals, since they had trouble finding the ingredients themselves. “Here it’s very expensive and hard to buy halal items such as meat. So I go to ei ther Richmond or Alexandria,” Hemmati says. She would make the drive to Richmond on her day off to purchase supplies and then prepare meals for students. Word quickly spread across the university, and soon her catering business flourished. You can now find Hemmati every Satur day at IX Market. ere, too, you’ll find Laziz Produce, her sister and mother’s business. Between working her full-time job, being a single mother to five young children, studying for her GED and citizenship classes, driving to Richmond on Sundays and selling at IX on Saturdays, Hemmati no longer has time to garden, but she still gets produce from her mother and sisters. Refugees face many challenges. ere are the obvious ones, such as language barri ers, fear of further persecution from the places they’ve fled, worry over whether they will feel welcome and safe in their new communities … there are also the challenges that many of us who have never faced this hardship may not even be aware of. e long, arduous process it takes to gain citizenship in this country (Hemmati has been here for six years and is still in the process, and it took Deo Rai seven years); the struggle to find housing, to get a driver’s license. Rai and her husband only have one vehicle, so he drops her off at the garden on his way to work and she works there until he takes his lunch break (to take public transportation would be a two-hour commute both ways). Washing and storage of the produce once it is harvested is also an issue for Rai. When you’re working land that may not be available to you the following season, it comes down to not having proper infrastruc ture. Wash sinks and cold storage aren’t an option in the community gardens, so before Rai can sell at market, she must first transport home all of the produce, washing and bun dling it in her kitchen and storing it alongside her family’s groceries. Organizations dedicated to helping these refugees rebuild their lives must also contend with these struggles. For New Roots, chief

among them is long-term land use. “It’s ironic that people who have been displaced their whole life, and have never had access to their own land in their own country, come here, and then every two years they have to change to a new vacant lot because someone wants to come in and develop it,” says Allan. Having to constantly uproot themselves can be a poten tial repeat trauma to growers. Land in urban areas is hard to find, and even harder to acquire, unless you are using it for development. A potential solution would be to find land in partnership with the city and lease it for long-term land tenure use. New Roots partnered with other non-profits under the Food Justice Network to have the city adopt a food equity initiative. ey worked with the city to rewrite its comprehensive plan, including urban agriculture language in every chapter and thus laying the policy ground work to hopefully have a more secure urban agricultural environment in Charlottesville. For example, if a park has a lacrosse field, or an apartment complex builds a playground, why can’t a garden be included as well? “We’re arguing [that] gardening is just as much an outdoor recreation as soccer … a shade tree can have apples on it,” says Allan. “Let’s have gardening become part of our urban culture here in Charlottesville.” It can be easy to feel removed from the atrocities that happen around the world. It makes sense to want to feel removed from them. We can read about them in the news, retweet inspirational quotes, and donate our money to an organization. Maybe some of us call our legislators or attend rallies. But there are so many small ways we can support one another at the local level, and programs such as New Roots pave a clear path for us. Frequent local ethnic restaurants, and those that purchase from refugee producers. Visit farmers markets and purchase unfamiliar pro duce. Volunteer with literacy groups, or if you have a certain skill, see how you might share it with others, particularly with organizations that support marginalized groups. Ask your cities for urban gardens and for better modes of transportation. Everyone deserves a home, food, and a community, and it falls to all of us to make that a reality for all our neighbors. To find out more about the New Roots Program visit www.Rescue.org/Charlottesville

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Roanoke: The Star City

WORDS & PHOTOS JESSE FELDBERG

W HEN I MOVED across the state in 2015, I never imagined I would come back to my hometown of Roanoke. Like many young adults, I was set on forging a new path in a new city. Roanoke was old news, and I couldn’t wait to explore the rest of what Virginia offered. I would return home to visit my family periodi cally, and caught glimpses of change in the city—new restaurants open ing, breweries popping up, and outdoor events expanding, propelling Roanoke to become a rising travel destination in the heart of Appalachia. It seems a bit odd to be writing a day-trip style article for the place I live, but I am happy to list out my perfect day (though there will be plen ty here to fill an entire weekend) in the Star City. Feel free to follow along and tag us (@edibleblueridge) whenever you visit our favorite places!

Door) Coffee — you can find them at their original location on Main Street inWasena or at their new, spacious cafe in Vinton. Opened by two brothers, with a focus on community orientation, here you’ll find cre ative lattes and cold brew cocktails (such as my favorite drink there, the Lemon Drop), an expansive tea selection, and a welcoming and knowl edgeable staff. Ready for a bit more substance to start your day? Look no further than Bread Craft ! Stunning pastries, fresh-baked loaves, and mouth watering sandwiches will stare back at you from the cases as you peruse brunch options on the menu. ere is zero shame in making an assorted box of pastries and having an indulgent breakfast! Our final early-day recommendation will come as no surprise to anyone local. Scratch Biscuit Company has been a staple in the Gran din neighborhood since August 2016. For the past six years, they’ve been cranking out fresh biscuits (made daily from, you guessed it, scratch), pancakes, waffles, and so much more. My recommendation is the Nash ville hot fried chicken biscuit with extra pickles — I’ve never had a bad day that started with one of those!

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Whether you like to start off with just a simple coffee, some pas tries, or a giant chicken biscuit, Roanoke has plenty to get you started on the right foot. Our favorite coffee is easily from RND (Roasters Next

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