CBA Record May-June 2023

Square-Cut Pizza Makes Chicagoland Go ‘Round

By Jake Berger

T he importance of pizza to Chicagoland cannot be over stated. Indeed, pizza has played a central role in Chicago's history, tradition, and culture. From providing sustenance to blue collar workers gathering at the local tavern after work for a few beers, to being the centerpiece at family gatherings or birth day parties, to providing tourists with unforgettable experiences, pizza has become a part of our city's identity.

cheese seemingly in between two pan pizzas; there is caramel ized deep-dish pizza, like Burt’s or Pequod’s, where the toppings sit on top of the cheese; and there are other, more unique twists on deep-dish pizza that use non-traditional ingredients or lighter crusts, more like a Detroit-style pizza. But while Chicago is known externally for its deep-dish pizza, those who have lived in Chicagoland for some time know that the

“ But while Chicago is known externally for its deep-dish pizza, those who have lived in Chicagoland for some time know that the real gem of Chicago pizza is our thin crust pizza, known locally as Chicago-style thin crust pizza, or more colloquially as tavern-cut pizza. ”

real gem of Chicago pizza is our thin crust pizza, known locally as Chicago-style thin crust pizza, or more colloquially as tavern cut pizza. The signature characteristics of tavern-cut pizza are a cracker-thin crust with sufficient crunch to be able to provide support to the toppings on top; then layered with a smoother, less chunky sauce than deep dish pizza; covered liberally with toppings under the cheese; finished with whole-milk mozzarella (part-skim need not apply); and then cut into squares instead of triangles. You read that correctly: square slices, with the toppings under the cheese! Pros order their tavern-cut pizzas well done to ensure crisp and supportive crust and gooey, partially caramelized cheese. Countless books, short stories, and articles have been written about the history of tavern-cut pizza. Essentially, tavern-cut was a South Side invention. Years ago, taverns on the South Side began to serve tavern-cut pizzas to their patrons to lure them to imbibe a few cold Old Styles after work. The delicious thin crust pizzas provided sustenance to the patrons and encouraged them to kick

Pizza also plays a central role in the Chicagoland legal profes sion. Pizza is a fixture at lunch meetings, strategy sessions, late night deposition and trial preparation sessions with colleagues and clients, and celebrations of important events and milestones. Pizza has also sustained many judges, lawyers, and support staff who are too tired to cook when arriving home after a long day at the office. And of course, for Chicagoans generally and for Chi cagoland lawyers specifically, pizza has been the subject of many often-impassioned debates. In Chicago, debates about pizza usually center on whether deep dish or thin crust is better. Of course, people all over the world know Chicago for its signature deep dish pizza. Chicago’s eponymous deep-dish pizza has a dense crust set in a circular pan, first covered with sliced mozzarella cheese, then layered with vari ous toppings, and then covered in a not-too-acidic, not-too-sweet chunky tomato sauce. But not all deep-dish pizza is the same. There is traditional deep dish pizza, like Uno’s or Lou Malnati’s; there is stuffed deep-dish pizza, like Giordano’s, with a layer of

24 May/June 2023